I got an XT if anyone wants to beat the 15% restock fee spread at Petra. Bran new....
Printable View
I got an XT if anyone wants to beat the 15% restock fee spread at Petra. Bran new....
I am thinking Cestree was looking at his air temps of 89C max when he said that...but yeah his water temps are very good at 61C max.
You can judge approximate ambients by looking at realtemp minimum temps. On his water screenshot, at 4200, 1.36v core idle on water, ambients will be ~11-13C lower than avg minimum core temps, so ambient in 19-22C range, or little lower if water had been heated from previous loading or gpu in loop.
His air screen shot cant judge ambients because Realtemp was started 20 secs after starting linx, so not true min idle temps.
But would have been interesting to see ambients recorded in both, or at least realtemp min temps.
It was early when I posted. I missed that he had an Extreme CPU, also that it is a 1366 i7. I had 1156 stuck in my head. I really screwed up. Sorry.
Ace, please disregard that link, and the information I gave you. I was mistaken on the CPU that you have. I am sorry.
I am going to agree that since you have an Extreme Series CPU, you can raise your CPU multiplier without having to raise the BCLK that high.
It is unecessary to raise the BCLK that high when you could just raise the CPU multi.
Example: 133(BCLK) * 32(MULTI) = 4265Mhz(CPU FREQUENCY)
Your CPU multiplier is unlocked up, and down.
http://benchmarkreviews.com/index.ph...1&limitstart=2
I am unfamiliar with this sites CPU stickies, or I would have guided you there.
Also, please realize that I do not have experience with the Bloomfield i7. Again, it was early and I made a mistake.
You should look to the other members replies to help you with your temps, and do some searching for additional informations.
Wow, I was tired or something. I missed the air and water differences too.
"Hi, my name is cesthree, and most of you probably think I am an idiot right now. Like, how does this guy even breathe through his mouth?"
I will really, really try to refrain from posting such crap in the future. My bad.
Those air temps were high, the water temps look awesome. I wish that my temps looked that good with my liquid cooling.
Nice calculation :)
It was 22 degrees
Dont know roomtemp yesterday must have been 20 to 23 degrees
http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/2...it44051600.jpg
:clap:
Almost 24 hours (2:00 CST Yesterday) since leak testing started.
It seems that there is no problem using the Swiftech o-rings with the BP/FB fittings.
http://i309.photobucket.com/albums/k...T/PC210007.jpg
http://i309.photobucket.com/albums/k...T/PC210003.jpg
http://i309.photobucket.com/albums/k...T/PC210002.jpg
Now, if I could only have that much luck with the BP/FB fittings in the Danger Den Acetal T.
You know, the T that they were made to go into. Seepy little bugger.
http://i309.photobucket.com/albums/k...T/PC210005.jpg
Two out of 3 in that T are seeping. It sucks, cause I want to just get a nylon T or Y, but I guess I might be sacrificing some flow, and that T makes a nice home for my iandh Silver KillCoil.
That pisses me off so bad. I am either gonna have to get another T (Preferrably metal, I guess), or find some better o-rings.
Those BP/FB fitting o-rings are too big in my opinion. The thickness is right at 0.080" (3/32), which is just fine except on the Apogee XT.
The ID and OD are what I am talking about. I snagged an o-ring from my D'Tek Fuzion V2 fitting, which has the same G1/4 thread, and it is slightly smaller in diameter. Slipped that baby on a BP/FB fitting and test fit it in a DD Acetal L that I have. It seems to fit MUCH better.
WTF can't these fitting manufacturers get together, have a conference, and make a STANDARD. Maybe ask the ISO for some tips? It would be nice. :shrug:
Pretty sure.. got it running for a week now, unscrewed and screwed in a couple of times, no leaks yet and from what ive read in forums very good temps for my cpu is a CO stepping @ 4.40GHZ with ramm @ 1600 6-6-6-20 1T timings.. seems my loop performs allright
http://img94.imageshack.us/img94/756...d440566620.jpg
I received my fittings this morning.
They all mounted fine except as noted below; some were a little tight and needed some more force to screw in by hand, but they went in fine.
http://www.swiftnets.com/assets/imag...ttingsx800.jpg
Anyone feeling some resistance when installing these fittings, do not be afraid to exert more force.
One of the blocks I picked at random on the other hand had an inlet thread that would not even accept our own fitting: it screwed in by about 2/3 and locked solid (this goes to show that we can never rule out a defect). I forced our fitting in by using a socket wrench, and then all the BP's went in fine, but the TFC's still refused to screw in all the way. I had to use a G 1/4 tap to clean up that thread. After that, the TFC went in fine too.
I checked 20 blocks with the TFC after that, and found none to be defective. Implemented for secerurity one more QC step to check all threads.
So here would be a reasonable guideline to assess whether you have a serious thread issue with your block: if our own fitting doesn't go in, this would be immediate ground for RMA. You may force our fitting in if you want, using a 5/8 socket, and it might fix all the BP's, but it doesn't seem to help with TFC's.
If our fitting goes in normally, but you can't screw in your aftermarket fitting by forcing it by hand, then go ahead and send the block back, we will retap that thread for you.
Note that I did observe some wide variations in major thread OD of these fittings. So if a fitting is at max spec, and our block is at min spec, that's when it becomes very tight to screw in. Here is a link to BSPP (G 1/4) thread specs for reference: http://mdmetric.com/tech/thddat7.htm
Just thought it should be brought to people's attention that though it may seem offputting to see problems in this thread, that no other manufacturer has ever supported the launch of their product like this before. Fair play Gabe, customer for life if this keeps up!
Gabe, when you tightened down the BP/FB fittings, did the o-rings bulge out?
Is that normal? Or, would you recommend using a different o-ring?
I used the Swiftech fitting o-rings on my Fat Boy's, and it works for me. I was just wondering what your thoughts on using the o-rings that came with the Fat Boy fittings are. They seem too big to me? :shrug:
Excellent product. My XT is working great. :up:
the green o-ring in this fitting seemed to squish out indeed. others looked fine.
http://ep.yimg.com/ca/I/sidewinderco..._2081_31830431
i'd just like to point out that if someone does try the "force a fitting in" they should take the fitting out, and check that no parts of either the fitting or the blocks inlet have come off. i've had copper fillings from the G1/4" tapping in my heatkiller, which i cleaned out before use. it may not be an issue, but i wouldnt want them caught in my block or pump.
the support for your product is amazing Gabe and Swiftech, even if it does have a couple of small issues, you've been more than helpful on clearing these up, which is more than you could say for other companies in just about any industry.
Mine came with loose 4 thread on the bakplate.
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/8759/img00077p.jpg
We have obviously had a bad batch of these still floating around. We have been checking every single one of them since we started finding out about it, and we have also re-inforced the design of the Pem nut insert for all future productions so that it will never happen again. In the meantime, please contact michelle (michelle@swiftech.com) right away and she wil send you a new one immediately.
sorry for the inconvenience.
Hi gabe,
my replacement backplate arrived today. Thanks for taking care of me so quickly, now thats great customer service!