the reasons are unknown.....about 3-4 weeks after benching with her on an SS,it simply wont work..
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the reasons are unknown.....about 3-4 weeks after benching with her on an SS,it simply wont work..
I put on a accelero s1 with different mem cooling and cooling for all the componets it was hiting about 72C now it wont go pass 52C, my overclock went to 828/2106/1080 to 865/2215/1250 i like to add i just add the vmem mod
You can't really get any higher of an OC w/ better cooling over stock if you don't do any mods, but if you do decide to volt-mod, the extra cooling capacity makes a world of difference!
@jason4207
I disagree, Depending of the speed of the GPU cooler, the card achieves stability at different clocks. Mine card when the cooler is set to 40% is starts showing artifacts after 20mins @core: 760, shader: 1890, video RAM: 1044Mhz. At 70% it is stable for hours @core:800, shader 1944, video RAM: 1044MHz.
I guess I should have qualified.Quote:
Originally Posted by gOJDO
I always ran my stock cooler at 100% when pushing the card hard. The stock cooler @ 100% vs. any aftermarket air-cooling solution will have the same OC results w/o any volt mods. There is no real reason to go throw a bunch of cash on aftermarket air-cooling on these cards if you are just trying for higher clocks.
I was able to run the fan near 70% w/o it being noticeable above the fans in the rest of my rig, so 40% fan really has no relevance for me. In games I would usually run at about 70%...a little higher for Crysis, and my max OC always held...no crashes.
Now, if you just want your card to run cooler or look different that is one thing, but don't expect any higher OC results.
Once you volt-mod, however, extra cooling makes a huge difference!
heres a stock cooler run with low ambient temps 1.39 LOAD
http://aycu21.webshots.com/image/485...5660302_rs.jpg
That's one really nice piece of hardware you got there cowie. 936 core and 2322 shader with only 1.39 VGPU under load. Mine can't even hit 900 with 1.4v idle unless I chill the water. But then again I'm sitting with 33C room temps which doesn't help.
Seems like the latest GTS's clock better then the older ones.... not just memory, I mean core as well..
yeah this is a good one it only takes 1.29 to get to 900 at 20_25 idle c no more than 43load bench stable.
i dont add volts till i have the temps under control,theres no use to add volts if you dont.
at 33c room temps they just take too many volts to get where you wanna go without running into temp problems because of volts.
I'm on stock Vcore (1.15V) hitting 836 Mhz with stock fan @ 50% with a ambient temp off 19°C...
Shaders pops up to ~2200...
Like I said, without vmods, 100% stock card :cool: .
Prodigys,
That's some golden chippery you got there...
Q6600 that does 4.185GHz @ <1.4v under water, and then that G92GTS.
:eek:
could be the first 1GHz core card with watercooling with reasonable ambients :up:
I know, I'm selling it right now on a dutch forum, highest bid so far is 240€ (375$). Looks like I'm lucky with my GTS and Q6600 :D .Quote:
Originally Posted by largon
If I could get a nice WC block for my card I would try it.Quote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
even a simple one like Swiftech MCW60 does a very nice job...
these cards are cold already..
hey guys I'm about to do my mods later today, just got the pots in this morning
I know this is a silly question but what do you recommend using to hold down the pots?
I use double-sided sticky tape...the thick white stuff.
Dumbest vmod question ever.... Which of the 3 pieces of metal coming out of the pots are , -, +, and the 3rd????
There is no polarity w/ resistors.
You'll always want to use the middle lead b/c that is the wiper, and gives you the variance. If you just use the outside 2 leads you'll have a fixed value resistor.
Which of the 2 outside leads you choose will depend on which way you want to turn the pot to decrease resistance/increase voltage. I set mine up so that a clockwise motion results in reduced resistance/higher voltage. Use your DMM. Always set the VR to max resistance before installing it, and it's a good idea to cut the unused lead off, so you don't get confused.
good advice, thanks bro :)Quote:
Originally Posted by jason4207
I might have some time to get this done tomorrow, I'm figuring no more than a half hour for the soldering right? (btw I'm adding a switch as well)
the majority of the time is spent tweaking the voltages right?
Well I spend a good bit of time getting everything looking good, and I like to try to bend the wires such that there is no 'spring' left in them. If the wire is trying to bend away from the solder point then eventually it might break free. I like the spring force to be directed into the solder point.
Plus, if you've never done this before you'll want to take extra care to do it right. Plan to have several hours free.
thanks again man ;)
I was planning on the few hours anyway just to be sure
and yeah I really want to make this nice and clean for resale value and my own preference :)
also any recommendations on where to get that double sided tape? hardware store?
Hardware store probably has it. Iirc I got mine at Radio Shack.Quote:
Originally Posted by nflesher87
You might want to consider doing this instead of using a switch (click for full size):
http://img376.imageshack.us/img376/2...0013lj9.th.jpg
http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/1...0015qb1.th.jpg
Those are 3-pin fan headers, and I think it looks a lot neater. Just unplug the VR, and you're back at stock :cool:
I will be getting into it this weekend and cant wait. I need to get some double sided tape though to 'strap' these things down.
I want to see 900 core w/1.3v.
Also, I have no idea what type of memory I have (label off the chips :() so I may not vmod the memory.
This is how I plan to do it..
1. Voltage reading molex connector.
2. setup pots at max resistence and for the direction I want to turn it...
3. solder pot
4. Have fun!
how do you guys get the wires to solder on so cleanly?
is the best way to drip solder onto the end of the cables, then attach it to the solder point by heating up the wire ?
i cant seem to solder to these tiny little pieces...
Thats how I planned on doing it!! I read that from a soldering website somewhere...Quote:
Originally Posted by ericab
You never want to drip solder. It'll just bead up if you do that. For the solder to work all metal that is to have solder applied also has to heat up to a good temp. First, I put a little dab of solder on my iron, and put it on the location to be soldered. On most points it only takes a couple seconds for it to bond good. On some GND points you may have to hold it a lot longer before the solder will melt. Then, I do the same for the tip of the wire. Finally, I get my wire into place, and solder the wire to the point.
You'll want to keep your soldering iron tip clean & tinned. I use this little round container (Solder Tip Cleaner) I got from Radio Shack to help keep the tip clean & tinned, but I also use a wet sponge to wipe off all the residue right before I get to work.
Having a 'helping hands" (a small device w/ alligator clips to hold your work) is invaluable for a lot of solder work b/c it's hard to hold everything, and balance the iron in your hand.
You'll also want to work under a magnifying glass w/ plenty of light. Those solder points are tiny!
**WARNING!**
It takes practice. If this is your first attempt at soldering I can almost guarantee you'll kill the card. Practice on an old piece of hardware first.