Retail Abit IN9 32X-MAX - Pictures, observations and testing...

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Oh, and when you cut those pipes be sure to get all the liquid out of them. I didn't get it all out of mine and it started to drip when the pwn heated up. Had to wad up a paper towel up in there until it was done dripping!

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Good point there max! forgot to mention this! although mine had only a drop or two of Chinese H2O in them !! use a lighter to heat the pipe and it will drip out.. press the end with pliers and ok! you can also solder the ends to be 100% sure

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Maybe under the cpu socket area as well to help hold the board flat.

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Yeap! as a mater of fact i do this on all boards! to ensure proper cpu-wblock or sink contact. some after market solutions provide metal support bars for under the pcb such as the thermal take H mount.

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Not being an EE, could someone please post a pic with the various chips, etc. around the CPU socket area indicating name and cooling issues?

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if you see the first pic in my post,

http://img109.imagevenue.com/loc154/..._122_154lo.JPG

you'll find the long "pulse chip" that is a 5-Phase Power Inductor, and 5 tiny chips part of a 5-Phase, Synchronous Buck Voltage Regulator Chip set by Volterra. The third chip lower in the middle is the rest of Volterra's chip set. Together they form the 5-Phase PWM (Pulse-Width-Modulation) Power drive for the CPU.

Data sheet: http://rapidshare.com/files/15321380...06_31.pdf.html

@ REVENANT: Sorry to hear this m8! Can you record that sound and up an mp3 of it? It would really help solving this one!

#451

Nice pickture, just what I was looking for...:)

Thanks

PRJ

Hi Guys

I just ordered the Abit IN9 32-Max and need to licquid cool NB / SB / Mosfets

I found the NB / SB coolers, but I dont know if this Mosfets cooler i found will fit...?

http://www.alphacool.de/product_info...n8-series.html

It's apparently ment for the " Abit Fatal1ty and AN8-Series " but would that fit..?

Any other model that would work or links to licquid cooled IN9 32-Max, would be very appreciated.

Thanks

PRJ_1976

Well be careful with those MOSFET coolers if you want to place them on the PWM as they are very heavy and you can damage the fragile chips (I almost broke them). As for this fitting I do not know I bought the universal one from alphacool and it has no brackets to mount it and its also long enough to extend beyond the holes of the M/B so make sure it fits or you will waste your money.

And one more thing the DD block ment for the 680i chipset will not fit either on this ABIT and you need to improvise (as I did to mount it) since the holes are not aligned with the holes of the MB. Instead use another one of those DD blocks for this ABIT (dont remember which) that fits perfectly.

Ok, thanks for the warning about fragile chips.

What are the measerements middle-middle of the holes, for mounting the Alphacool Mosfets cooler?

Anotherthing...


Do you mean that this one does'nt work...?

http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ge_scroll_id=0

Thanks

PRJ

Water blocks for the IN9 CPU/NB/SB and PMW

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/3...maxfullmt0.jpg

Link

Is your PWM block a custom block and who makes the one you have here? Info please :-)

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Originally Posted by Yellowbeard

Is your PWM block a custom block and who makes the one you have here? Info please :-)

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No its not custom and you can buy them form here and they ship worldwide :)

ABIT IN9 32X MAX Freezer Set from mips-computer.de

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Originally Posted by OKsoVRomoSkylo

[snip]
@ REVENANT: Sorry to hear this m8! Can you record that sound and up an mp3 of it? It would really help solving this one!

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edit: for the sound, think of the sound of a shower through the bathroom door.. that's pretty much it.

maybe later I can make an mp3.. I need to get going here to work.. but I discovered that if I press the top of that "pulse" chip, the wide one with the open top it's quiets the sound. I think I might be able to wedge something between the chip top and the bottom of my tuniq tower's bracket, which is right over-top. soooo, I'll have to give that a go when I get home. wish me luck :)

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Originally Posted by day187

Water blocks for the IN9 CPU/NB/SB and PMW

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/3...maxfullmt0.jpg

Link

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Can you still do SLI with that SB sink?

#456

Nice job, thanks for the tip, I will order one right away.

What did you use AS5 or thermal tape?

Greetings PRJ

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Originally Posted by revenant

edit: for the sound, think of the sound of a shower through the bathroom door.. that's pretty much it.

maybe later I can make an mp3.. I need to get going here to work.. but I discovered that if I press the top of that "pulse" chip, the wide one with the open top it's quiets the sound. I think I might be able to wedge something between the chip top and the bottom of my tuniq tower's bracket, which is right over-top. soooo, I'll have to give that a go when I get home. wish me luck :)

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I noticed that in my abit control panel in windows, it says "warning" state... all my temps are ok, at load, cpu@40c, system@30c, PWM@65c or less... pwm power says like 40 amps.. or so.. not sure what's in warning?? hrm.. my psu has two 4pin cpu 12v power plugs which smoosh together to make one 8pin power plug... perhaps I should try running with just one of the 4pin plugs?? anyways.. just brainstorming here.

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Originally Posted by Speederlander

Can you still do SLI with that SB sink?

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I think so, i think it just misses the SB if it's anything like the Abit AW9D-MAX, i know that can run crossfire with all the blocks on mounted in the board.

Drop them an email if you are interested they speak English, I’ve not got the set yet been waiting for it to show up on there website. I'm going to try and order it next week.

Blocks specs translated from German to English

Technical data Southbridge Freezer: Size entirely without connections: 54 x 43 x 10mm (L x B x H without connections) Weight: ~175g Base plate: Reinstkupfer 5mm Upper plate: Brass 5mm Connecting thread: 1/4´´

Technical data Northbridge Freezer: Size entirely without connections: 39 x 39 x 10mm (L x B x H without connections) Weight: ~135g Base plate: Reinstkupfer 5mm Upper plate: Brass 5mm Connecting thread: 1/4´´

Technical data Mosfet Freezer: Size entirely without connections: 65 x 19 x 15mm (L x B x H without connections) Weight: ~110g Base plate: Reinstkupfer 5mm Upper plate: Brass 5mm Connecting thread: 1/4´´ Our Freezer is always supplied o h n e of connections and/or thermal compound, please ggfls. along-order!!! Scope of supply: 1 x MCH029 Northbridge Freezer of inclusive 2 spacer rings 1 x MCH030 Southbridge Freezer of inclusive 2 spacer rings 1 x MCH142 Mosfet Freezer Manufacturer: MIPS computer GmbH Part number: MCH405 Price: 119.90 EUR inclusive 19% VAT. zzgl. forwarding expenses Order

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Originally Posted by revenant

I noticed that in my abit control panel in windows, it says "warning" state... all my temps are ok, at load, cpu@40c, system@30c, PWM@65c or less... pwm power says like 40 amps.. or so.. not sure what's in warning?? hrm.. my psu has two 4pin cpu 12v power plugs which smoosh together to make one 8pin power plug... perhaps I should try running with just one of the 4pin plugs?? anyways.. just brainstorming here.

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You need both connected!
For the sound thing, try pushing parts with your finger and listen for pitch changes or other.
The pulse chip is actually 5 inductors in an unusual sandwich chip package... could be that the metal resonates against the chip sandwich (if loose). Also check applying some force on the metal parts of your case, psu and such.

Tip: I've made a stethoscope like instrument to help pinpoint noises in all sorts of devices. you can buy one or make one really easily. i used one of those tube type headphones they used in airplanes just by sticking a hard non conductive plastic probe pin in the end of the tube.

@DAY 187: nice piece of kit! its a pity they don't sell the sb or pwm block alone.. i hate buying kits for just one or two parts.. the lc junk box is really full of expensive parts i don't use...but anyway you never know what you'll be needing next...

@SPEEDERLANDER: yes! seems u can as its only 1cm high and the tube ports are in the right place.

Hi thanks for your response... ok, I'll dissasemble things tonight and create a "work bench" of sorts, so I can have better access to the chip while things are running.. it's such a tight area with that massive tuniq there.. gah! anyways.. I know what you're talking about with the stethoscope.. I'll try and make something silimar.. that's a great idea tho.. I have been using a paper towel tube until now. lol.

edit: seems as tho a hiss or "wind" sound is pretty typical for PWMs to make... I know I have sensitive hearing, I used to get really bugged by the old school lights in department stores, it was a high pitched sound which was almost deafening to me when I went in.. very loud.. but not many else heard it.. it's been years since I was in a store where I heard that.. like 25 or so.. anyways, I think I am just more senstive to this noise.. unfortunately... but I am going to try and dampen it out as best I can.. If can't get it into an acceptable range I'll have to get some other board.. too bad if so tho, because this seems like a nice board... I know I am obcessing over this.. but my primary machine is down and I don't like that. it drives my OCD nuts. :P

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Originally Posted by day187

No its not custom and you can buy them form here and they ship worldwide :)

ABIT IN9 32X MAX Freezer Set from mips-computer.de

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Is there anything like this kit that can be purchased in the US?

Also, I'm preparing to do a build with the following components:
ABit In9
QX6700 Quad
4x1024 PC8000-1000Mhz CL4
Raptor 150gb
2x750 GB Seagate Perpendicular (Raid 1 mirrored)
Case is still up in the air - CM Stacker Evolution or MozartTX or Some Lian-Li...
PSU up in the air...
8800 GTX watercooled edition

I need to narrow down my choices for case, psu, and watercooling kit. Any suggestions? I've been following all the issues in these forums with this board pretty closely and there is a lot of mods being done to the board it seems.. Is there a way for me to do this build without voiding the board warranty and still have low temps and stability with a small overclock? Need feedback... appreciate it.

OK guys, great stuff! Nice find on the blocks too. But really, any ideas on my CMOS problem? Its really starting to get me down. I have no idea why its doing this... :confused:

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Originally Posted by s0v13t

Is there anything like this kit that can be purchased in the US?

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I'm not sure i live in the UK but they do ship worldwide, best to drop them an email.

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Originally Posted by s0v13t

Is there anything like this kit that can be purchased in the US?

Also, I'm preparing to do a build with the following components:
ABit In9
QX6700 Quad
4x1024 PC8000-1000Mhz CL4
Raptor 150gb
2x750 GB Seagate Perpendicular (Raid 1 mirrored)
Case is still up in the air - CM Stacker Evolution or MozartTX or Some Lian-Li...
PSU up in the air...
8800 GTX watercooled edition

I need to narrow down my choices for case, psu, and watercooling kit. Any suggestions? I've been following all the issues in these forums with this board pretty closely and there is a lot of mods being done to the board it seems.. Is there a way for me to do this build without voiding the board warranty and still have low temps and stability with a small overclock? Need feedback... appreciate it.

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1.PSU should be around 850w minimum(real watts-not chinatown max) specially if you plan sli'ng the gtx's.

2.buy a 2X1 gig memory kit instead of 4x1.. there have been issues with 4 sticks and the 680i (i have a pair of cellshock 1000Mhz CL4 sticks that work ok on this board however couldn't tight tune them in properly... waiting for a bios to fix the frequency holes and the multi's..)

also bear in mind that the qx doesn't like high fsb's so you would be better off with a tight performing 400mhz pair such as the gskill cl4-4-3-5 pc2-6400 (have those on a 965 dq6 and i love them)

3.been watercooling for the past 6? years and i can only say asetek! buy a kit with their extreme waterchill pump, antarctica cpu block and nb universal block. a double row 240 rad w 4x12 cm fans would be ok for all the system w/sli gtx's.

4.any full tower stacker with more than 7 5.25 exposed bays (six of them for the rad and 1 for a dvd/wr) and a 3.5 internal cradle-frame for 3 or more hdds would be ok.

5. if you need the warranty you should keep the silent boats (b for bull) intact. just remove it and store it somewhere.

@SKRIPS: Elaborate please..

Has anybody found a way to reset the uGuru settings before opening the application? an ini hack maybe?

it keeps last oc configuration, and when the system hangs it wont auto reset... next time you boot and load the app it will hang the system again..

past two days have been uninstalling-reinstalling it..

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Originally Posted by OKsoVRomoSkylo

1.PSU should be around 850w minimum(real watts-not chinatown max) specially if you plan sli'ng the gtx's.

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Got it, will do (how's that 850 coolermaster one?)

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Originally Posted by OKsoVRomoSkylo

2.buy a 2X1 gig memory kit instead of 4x1.. there have been issues with 4 sticks and the 680i (i have a pair of cellshock 1000Mhz CL4 sticks that work ok on this board however couldn't tight tune them in properly... waiting for a bios to fix the frequency holes and the multi's..)

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This build MUST have 4gb of RAM. I'd like to do 2gbx2 but they only have a gskill, geil, and a ocz kit available - and they're all cl5. I thought I was better off getting really nice, tight 1gb sticks x 4. Input?

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Originally Posted by OKsoVRomoSkylo

also bear in mind that the qx doesn't like high fsb's so you would be better off with a tight performing 400mhz pair such as the gskill cl4-4-3-5 pc2-6400 (have those on a 965 dq6 and i love them)

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My rationalle here was to buy the BEST possible ram being to ensure that it runs TIGHT timings at even high frequences. That guy "Day178" something or other is running those things @ 552 or something still @ 4-4-4-x timings. I think that's phenomenal and I know this is the ram that got that one 8ghz overclock as well. - Your thoughts? anyone else welcome to comment too.

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Originally Posted by OKsoVRomoSkylo

3.been watercooling for the past 6? years and i can only say asetek! buy a kit with their extreme waterchill pump, antarctica cpu block and nb universal block. a double row 240 rad w 4x12 cm fans would be ok for all the system w/sli gtx's.

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will look into asetek. thx. - would be nice to have exact fit waterblocks for everything including the pwm.

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Originally Posted by OKsoVRomoSkylo

4.any full tower stacker with more than 7 5.25 exposed bays (six of them for the rad and 1 for a dvd/wr) and a 3.5 internal cradle-frame for 3 or more hdds would be ok.

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I guess it's between the stacker 830 and the mozarttx

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Originally Posted by OKsoVRomoSkylo

5. if you need the warranty you should keep the silent boats (b for bull) intact. just remove it and store it somewhere.

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Will this still allow me to run adequately cool temps?

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Originally Posted by OKsoVRomoSkylo

Has anybody found a way to reset the uGuru settings before opening the application? an ini hack maybe?

it keeps last oc configuration, and when the system hangs it wont auto reset... next time you boot and load the app it will hang the system again..

past two days have been uninstalling-reinstalling it..

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I have not... but I will check that out later... I know when I tried "quiet" mode it hung my system up..

in other news, I found a bunch of hard rubber stoppers, from fiber optic (GBIC) modules which should be about the right size and material to make something to dampen the pwm vibration.. I am also going to check out possibly using them to dampen any vibration between my mobo and the TJ09s mobo tray.. or supporting the mobo better under the pwm area with them? well, I'm heading home soon to experiment with this.. I think the trick will be, with the pulse chip (inductor sandwich?), dampening it without smothering it, as it needs to breath.. the tuniq's bracket is right overhead, so I have a spot to wedge against... but I might have to get an extra fan in that area also.. we'll see.

1. Coolermaster ok
2. about 4x1g: people are reporting all sorts of problems related to the use of 4 sticks. this is not an abit thing, its a 680i thing. best would be if somebody already using 4 sticks with a quad and this board could advise.
BUT: Any same board is different, so is any same stick of ram. Their combination would be very different as well...
BUT: running tight memory settings on these boards(680i) even with two sticks is a tricky task! the sli architecture you see...
i believe using 4 super duper 1000+cl4 tight sticks you would have to probably use cl5 just to do 400mhz... hope i'm wrong. think: why do 2 ghz sticks using the same chips have a cl5 rating? no contact-slot loss, no copper highways to run and the best they can do is 5?

my rationale is buy today what you need today cause tomorrow it wont be usable...:=))

i'd wait for the 1333 ddr4 cl2 sticks to go mainstream first:D

Thanks for everybody's help so far. Is it worth it looking into
a 2x2gb cl5 kit (Gskill, Geil, or OCZ) over 4x1gb cl4 sticks? Anybody with ANY experience running 4 gb on this board? Help is much appreciated.

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Originally Posted by s0v13t

Thanks for everybody's help so far. Is it worth it looking into
a 2x2gb cl5 kit (Gskill, Geil, or OCZ) over 4x1gb cl4 sticks? Anybody with ANY experience running 4 gb on this board? Help is much appreciated.

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Link to OCZ for sale somewhere?