ASUS P5W DH - Problems + Fixes Thread

Need a 600watt plus psu with at least 38 amp or more on the 12v rail.
Top quality thats is known to work well with this mobo

Mine took a dump 120mm fan is stuck at full rpm second one with fan control issues

http://www.mgecompany.com/xg/product..._vortec700.php got this from compusuck

So now I want a very good quality psu that has no known issue's with this psu

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Originally Posted by ThickFog

Seams to be the biggest source on the internet for P5W DH Deluxe problems, so I will post mine here,

Specs:
P5W DH Dluxe Bios 1305
Intel 6600
Crosair XMS2 pc2-6400 5-5-5-12
ATi x1900xtx
Segate Baracuda 320gb
Enermax Libertity 520w
Antec P180

My huge problem varies. Somtimes my computer will just lock up on post, right after detecting my ram, other times I can enter, BIOS and it will lock up while going through BIOS menus. Other times it will just continue to boot as normal. When I try to boot from the windows disc, this usually leads to a restart.

This is my secound motherboard, I RMA'd the first one thinking the problem was faulty bios, but it seams i was wrong.

I am running memtest89 right now and so far no errors. (Side question, when do i know memtest has gone through a complete cycle?) The only problem i can see is on post, it usually detects my ram as pc-5300 or somthing, i have tried manualy changng it to ddr2-800, but then i get the occasional overvoltage, when i havent messed with the voltage.

This is my first ever computer build and im not enjoying the experence.... any help is appricated

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I´ve the same problem, and I tried 2 different psu, one with 30a in the 12 line
and also happens with the minimum hardware installed, I mean, hdd, 1 cdrom, VGA (PCI 1MB), and also when the sistem is not oc at all

Stay the hell away from Thermaltake 750 watt Toughpower. :nono: Mine after two weeks of ownership burned up, and to make things worse kept on running!

The PC was left on idle last evening and the 12 volt rail(s) cooked up and the monitor had the "insert boot disc" error message on it! I thought for sure my CD, floppy, and Sata HD were cooked but I pulled the PS out of my AMD Epox and the P5w seems OK. :clap:

I ordered a PC Power and Cooling 750 watt power supply to replace the burned out unit.

First time I had a PS go south, it's always something. :mad: The thing that concerns me the most is that it did not shut itself down.
sparx

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Originally Posted by NghtShd

I don't see a liberty 520 listed at newegg, but whether it's the 500 or the 620 it should be fine, yet that behavior looks like a PSU problem to me.

I see those PSUs have modular cables. Is the extra 4 pin section on the ATX power connector detachable on the PSU end? If so, you might want to check that it is connected properly. My P5W DH will run without the extra 4 power pins connected, but it behaves in a similar way to what you are seeing. My PC2-6400 RAM would test good running at DDR2-667 without those pins connected, but wouldn't work at its rated speed.

You just need to change the divider for the DRAM speed when you get everything working. It's normal for it to be set at PC2-5300 until you do.

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Your right, its only a 500w, my bad

I really dont have another power supply to play around with, how can i truly limit the problem to this? monza1412 above said he was still getting the same problem with a new psu.

Memtest found no errors in the ram. A post HardForum is the only other place i can find someone else having the same problem (http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1114332)

Any help would be nice, I really want this computer to start working

I can't seem to figure out what's causing my HD activity light to consistently blink (almost exactly every second). I've disabled the CD/DVD autoplay to see if that would fix it, but it didn't. Not sure if this is a mobo issue or something else, so I am curious if other people are experiencing this. I guess its not a big deal, but I've never had this happen on any of my previous builds, so it's a curiosity.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ThickFog

Your right, its only a 500w, my bad

I really dont have another power supply to play around with, how can i truly limit the problem to this? monza1412 above said he was still getting the same problem with a new psu.

Memtest found no errors in the ram. A post HardForum is the only other place i can find someone else having the same problem (http://www.hardforum.com/showthread.php?t=1114332)

Any help would be nice, I really want this computer to start working

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Can you list your voltage settings and the settings in Advanced> Jumperfree?
sparx

Hey sparx is this the one you ordered http://www.pcpower.com/products/view...EPS&view=about I was looking at the Thermaltake 750 watt I have a back up ocz 520 and when I run 3dmark06 it freezes never had that issue even with my 700w xg

I need a bad ass power supply that will take anything I hook to it keep the suggestions coming just please actually own it and assure it works with this mobo

Check your Windows Task Manager for Running Processes and the CPU activity level, there may be something going on in the back-ground which for some unknown reason is consistanly accessing the HDD. Place your ear next to the drive, is it spinning up, accessing it's cache? how many MB cache does it have 8MB, 15MB? These may seem like silly suggestions but I'd think they would eliminate the obvious.

I'd enter the BIOS and switch it to Default settings, see if that disbales something that may be causing constant HDD activity...

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Originally Posted by kaiguy

I can't seem to figure out what's causing my HD activity light to consistently blink (almost exactly every second). I've disabled the CD/DVD autoplay to see if that would fix it, but it didn't. Not sure if this is a mobo issue or something else, so I am curious if other people are experiencing this. I guess its not a big deal, but I've never had this happen on any of my previous builds, so it's a curiosity.

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Quote:

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Originally Posted by dmilazzo78

man I was looking at the Thermaltake 750 watt I have a back up ocz 520 and when I run 3dmark06 it freezes never had that issue even with my 700w xg

I need a bad ass power supply that will take anything I hook to it keep the suggestions coming just please actually own it and assure it works with this mobo

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I ordered a PC Power & Cooling 750 watt from Newegg today. I am not taking any chances with Thermaltakes.

It does not have 4 separate 18 amp rails like many, nor the modular power cables. But, it is a quiet model and has 60 amps on the 12 rail. I read about 3-4 reviews and it holds voltage at heavy loads like a rock.

If I have issues I will report them here. I should have it Friday at the latest.
I just got my rig running and connected and did some great gaming online (COD2) yesterday before it burned up.

It doesn't matter though, since I am changing my HS to a thermalright 120 and the MCH heast sink to a Thermalright as well... forgot the model # sorry.

There sure is a lot of crap on the market these days. :moon:
sparx

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dmilazzo78

man I was looking at the Thermaltake 750 watt I have a back up ocz 520 and when I run 3dmark06 it freezes never had that issue even with my 700w xg

I need a bad ass power supply that will take anything I hook to it keep the suggestions coming just please actually own it and assure it works with this mobo

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I have the Thermaltake Toughpower 700w for more about two months now.

I am running stable with a P5W DH Deluxe (1.65v MHC), E6400 @ 3.2GHz (auto voltage). I have 3 hard drives, 2 DVD RWs an ATI X1950XTX (overclocked as far as it goes with CCC) and a TV tuner on it with absolutely no problems.

I can't get my 667MHz ram sticks to work at 800MHz but it's probably a ram issue so I just oredered me a pair of G-Skills...

But the PSU is working great for me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sparx

It doesn't matter though, since I am changing my HS to a thermalright 120 and the MCH heast sink to a Thermalright as well... forgot the model # sorry.

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Probably the thermalright HR-05 or HR-05 SLI

Let me know if it fits because I have the thermalright 120 ultra on my CPU as well (with a standard 120mm fan - best cooler I've owned) and am thinking about getting a thermalright northbridge heatsink but I'm not sure it will fit...

A piece of advice... leave the crappy metal clips in the box and secure the fan with some tie-wraps going through the top and bottom fins... It's much better and more secure.

Yes POL
That is the one I ordered- HR-05. ( reads like a bill in Congress -no?) thanks for the tip on the fasteners.

I am concerned about the fit actually, but I ordered it anyway.

I put a temp probe in between the fins on the stock MCH HS with factory TiM still in place and I got 35C loaded. I have a little 40 mm ( I think it is 40) fan setting on top the HS with hot glue, ghetto install! :p:

Anyway I pushed the temp probe down against the base plate and that is temp reading I got.

sparx

Quote:

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Originally Posted by kaiguy

I can't seem to figure out what's causing my HD activity light to consistently blink (almost exactly every second). I've disabled the CD/DVD autoplay to see if that would fix it, but it didn't. Not sure if this is a mobo issue or something else, so I am curious if other people are experiencing this. I guess its not a big deal, but I've never had this happen on any of my previous builds, so it's a curiosity.

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Get Filemon from sysinternals.com - it shows you what process is causing it.

It helped me diagnose that a defrag tool had a service which keeps hard drives form spinning down.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sparx

Can you list your voltage settings and the settings in Advanced> Jumperfree?
sparx

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All the voltage settings are on auto.

I was able to get the windows disc to boot an start reformatting my hd, i chose NTFS (slow, not the quick one) and i got this error
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/9...liam072bn1.jpg
This CD has worked fine for me before

Arg.. this is really fustrating

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ThickFog

All the voltage settings are on auto.

I was able to get the windows disc to boot an start reformatting my hd, i chose NTFS (slow, not the quick one) and i got this error
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/9...liam072bn1.jpg
This CD has worked fine for me before

Arg.. this is really fustrating

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Ok why don't you try putting the RAM at 2.0 and the Vcore at 1.325 pci express on 101. You should have pci clock 33.3.
Also set PERFORMANCE Mode to> Standard
This is not excessive voltage see if it helps.
Your error code on the install could be related to instability.
Also you have the 4 pin power plug installed into the motherboard?
I don't know your video card but it has a port and that is connected for 12 volts too?

In addtion: Run the RAM at : SPD
In CPU Configuration:
Microcode Updation > Enabled
The Five (5) remaining items> Disabled



sparx

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sparx

Ok why don't you try putting the RAM at 2.0 and the Vcore at 1.325 pci express on 101. You should have pci clock 33.3.
This is not excessive voltage see if it helps.
Your error code on the install could be related to instability.
Also you have the 4 pin power plug installed into the motherboard?
I don't know your video card but it has a port and that is connected for 12 volts too?


sparx

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Ok I will try those voltage settings now.

I have the 4 pin power pluged into my motherboard, i also have a 4 pin one pluged next to the cpu, and one (on a pci-e cord) to my graphics card

Thanks for the help, hopefully it works

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I don't know if You have this or not, But do You have the powertoys for windows xp?
If You don't It may help as Your drive may just be hidden or It's unformatted and needs to be formatted by the XP setup CD possibly. I hope one of these two ideas help.

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I have windows xp professional, I don't know what powertoys is, although I look it up, and it seem like its just add-ons. I can format it in windows xp but that would install windows xp into my secondary drive which I don't want to do, which would make me have two dual boots operating systems.

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That's strange that it doesn't show up under Disk Management. When I installed my 3rd SATA (first two were in RAID), that's how I had to format it/show it. But it does show up in the BIOS? How about under Disk Drives in the Device Manager?

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It shows up in Bios and it also shows up when I do windows installation, when I pop in my windows xp cd. It doesn't show up in Disk Drives in Device Managers, it doesn't show up at all when I load up windows.

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If I recall correctly...I had the same issue...
With my circumstance , I had to set the Jmicron raid to normal mode to get the ide drive recognized in windows despite being recognized in bios .Did ya remember to install the raid drvers for both controllers with F6 method a windows install ?

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I install Jmicron but immediately disable it and didn't completely install it all the way. I didn't install the raid drivers for both controllers with the F6 method using windows install. Can you explain more? This might be my problem...

Also the hanging problem while multitasking with several programs open, until I close several programs will it go away, does anyone have this problem??

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ThickFog

Ok I will try those voltage settings now.

I have the 4 pin power pluged into my motherboard, i also have a 4 pin one pluged next to the cpu, and one (on a pci-e cord) to my graphics card

Thanks for the help, hopefully it works

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ThickFog
I added some more settings to my post.
Sorry it is such a fragmented post, but my rig is dead right now and I cannot see the BIOS because of my power supply issue.
sparx

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I install Jmicron but immediately disable it and didn't completely install it all the way. I didn't install the raid drivers for both controllers with the F6 method using windows install. Can you explain more? This might be my problem...

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In your case I don't beleive that you would need to install the raid drivers then .....since you are just using the Intel sata controllers with no raid for those drives. J micron raid drivers definately not needed in this case . I also noticed that in your original post mentioned that one drive is a master and the other a slave . I thought that both drives must be either master or cable select for use on sata since each drives uses it's own individual cable

What settings have you used for the IDE configuration in Bios ? ( ide config controls the Intel sata ports )

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Originally Posted by Liquid3D

Check your Windows Task Manager for Running Processes and the CPU activity level, there may be something going on in the back-ground which for some unknown reason is consistanly accessing the HDD. Place your ear next to the drive, is it spinning up, accessing it's cache? how many MB cache does it have 8MB, 15MB? These may seem like silly suggestions but I'd think they would eliminate the obvious.

I'd enter the BIOS and switch it to Default settings, see if that disbales something that may be causing constant HDD activity...

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I don't think the drive is actually being accessed. I experienced this problem with all BIOS settings at default before. It also occurred with a completely different P5W. Task manager shows no unusual CPU activity on any single process. The RAID drives are 8mb cache, my other drive is 16--all WDs. I wish there was something I could remove to try it, but I know its not the CD/DVD or the floppy. Everything else is required (video, ram, etc.).

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Originally Posted by davexl

Get Filemon from sysinternals.com - it shows you what process is causing it.

It helped me diagnose that a defrag tool had a service which keeps hard drives form spinning down.

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I'll try to get that particular program. I know I tried one before (not sure which, but it was freeware) that shows every access on the harddrive. It wouldn't show anything unless I did something (like press the Start button, open a file, etc.), yet the activity light still blinks away. (ADDED: Actually, upon looking at that program, that was the one I tried.)

Thanks, both of you, for your suggestions.

does anyone got this board and a e6300? if so what do u get overclocking? i've had this board for like 3 weeks or so, pretty dissatisfied with it. I got an e6300 that oc's on a P5B Deluxe WiFi/AP 3.6ghz@1.45v but when i put it in there i can't even get it stable at 3.2ghz at the same voltage! I've tried pretty much every bios out there for it and it really doesn't make too much a difference. if u have similar let me know what u get!

The P5W DH Deluxe can't reach fsb's much over 450mhz without modifications. That's why you can only reach 3.2ghz on this board.

ya i realized that pretty quickly, pretty dissappointed in this board. Wish i would've just bought another P5B Deluxe. Maybe it'll be good when i get a e6600 or higher, give me a higher clock to start with.

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Originally Posted by kaiguy

I'll try to get that particular program. I know I tried one before (not sure which, but it was freeware) that shows every access on the harddrive. It wouldn't show anything unless I did something (like press the Start button, open a file, etc.), yet the activity light still blinks away. (ADDED: Actually, upon looking at that program, that was the one I tried.)

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I installed CompUSA cold-boot-swappable hard disk cartridges in my machines a few years back when even my gigabit LAN took 20+ minutes to move 4GB files around, and I now use the constantly-blinking drive light to tell if the machine has crashed. I have never found a good reason for the light to do that, and I believe that the primary HD light is also blinking slighty but it isn't as obvious. The swappable drive is on the secondary IDE chain along with my DVD writer.

The blinking did move from a PIII ASUS board to a P5W DH so it's not a new thing, but again they were both ASUS boards...

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Originally Posted by rivlez

does anyone got this board and a e6300? if so what do u get overclocking? i've had this board for like 3 weeks or so, pretty dissatisfied with it. I got an e6300 that oc's on a P5B Deluxe WiFi/AP 3.6ghz@1.45v but when i put it in there i can't even get it stable at 3.2ghz at the same voltage! I've tried pretty much every bios out there for it and it really doesn't make too much a difference. if u have similar let me know what u get!

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I'm annoyed that I didn't reach the 3Ghz I'd seen in the online reviews, but 2.87Ghz is now fairly stable.

You needed to manage to get a board that allows a vMCH of more than 1.65V, and memory that can overclock well past 800Mhz. Since my Corsair RAM refuses to reliably go faster than 820Mhz and still use the 1:1 ratio, I had to stop at a 410Mhz FSB setting. 420 would have worked if I lowered the ratio, but the benchmarks look better the way things sit now. Either way I was still under 3Ghz...

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Originally Posted by Levesque

But I still don't understand why it's taking so much time to start Win XP. With my old P4C800E Win XP was starting alot faster. A good 30 seconds faster then with the P5W DH.

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I installed a USB TV tuner and the associated software seemed to bog my machine down a LOT while booting. After many reboots it must have finally completed whatever it had to do, and things went back to normal. There's an occasional lag after the swapfile defrag that happens at every boot, and I lose some USB devices somehow every few days and reinstalling the drivers isn't too quick.

If I had known every restart was going to be an adventure, I can't say I'd still have gotten this board...

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Originally Posted by mikepaul

I'm annoyed that I didn't reach the 3Ghz I'd seen in the online reviews, but 2.87Ghz is now fairly stable.

You needed to manage to get a board that allows a vMCH of more than 1.65V, and memory that can overclock well past 800Mhz. Since my Corsair RAM refuses to reliably go faster than 820Mhz and still use the 1:1 ratio, I had to stop at a 410Mhz FSB setting. 420 would have worked if I lowered the ratio, but the benchmarks look better the way things sit now. Either way I was still under 3Ghz...

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ya i know what u mean, i can do 3ghz easy with very little to get prime95 stable, when i get home i'm going to try and mess with it a little more. Just sucks that it is not a good ocing board for lower end c2d cpu's. Just wish I would've seen this forum and read some of the threads, definitely would've bought another P5B deluxe or even the an Abit board. What can you do though.

Hi all, this is my first post in this excellent and informative forum and I just want to share some things with you....

I've had this motherboard since tues last and since then I've managed to obtain a overclock of 2.4ghz with the standard HSF with FSB of 346.4 and my multiplier is 7.
Seems stable enough, although I've had a couple of lockups in 3dmark and Fear, but I'm not sure if it's the catsd 6.10 causing this or my memory modules.

I've got a couple of Geil DDR2 667MHz, PC5300 667MHz matched pairs in there and they are running at 692mhz, timings of 4 4 4 12 with voltage set to auto.

Question is, do I need to lower my timings, or/and increase my voltage or should I be ok? And... am I likely to be able to get anymore with the same HSF?
Answers on a postcard please :-)
ChrisC

new p5w-dh review here : http://www.hartware.de/review_627.html

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sparx

Ok why don't you try putting the RAM at 2.0 and the Vcore at 1.325 pci express on 101. You should have pci clock 33.3.
Also set PERFORMANCE Mode to> Standard
This is not excessive voltage see if it helps.
Your error code on the install could be related to instability.
Also you have the 4 pin power plug installed into the motherboard?
I don't know your video card but it has a port and that is connected for 12 volts too?

In addtion: Run the RAM at : SPD
In CPU Configuration:
Microcode Updation > Enabled
The Five (5) remaining items> Disabled
Ok.. Your settings have greatly increased my stability but Im still having a few problems.
sparx

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I was able to install windows xp home sucessfully, and install all the motherboard drivers (off the cd). When i installed my Ati catalyst, the bios again locked up on post, i turned it the pc off, and swiched the power supply on and off. Then I was then able to go in and find that your settings, that i had put in my bios were now all set to auto. Changing them back, the PC again ran perfectly and i was able to install mouse software etc

Then i go to begin the windows update process. The first step it informs me is I have to install a new windows update version, this requires a reboot. During the reboot, just as the windows screen loads it restarts by it'self, and the bios locks up. Using the power supply reboot method, it gave me a ovevoltage error and i was able to enter bios. All your settings were the same as before except Intel Temperature control was inabled (in cpu configuration) After turning this off and rebooting, windows asks me if i want to start windows normal, safe mode.. etc

I chose normal and now i get this error
System32/drivers/ntfs.sys is missing or corropted.

Im going to try and repair windows with my cd, but i dont want this error happening again

Help

Edit: i get those overvoltage errors when the post has read my ram as pc2-5300, with your settings in the bios

Thickfog

Could you please give a sig of you rig, you know the parts? Maybe go to Usercp up top left on the page and enter in there then it will follow your posts and you won't have to re-enter it.

Do you by chance have a VOM meter?

I wonder if your power supply is providing strange voltages?
This is your second motherboard so we have to look elsewhere.

This PW5 is a good board and worth the effort, don't give up yet. ;)
Edit: Also is there a way for you to check the CMOS battery and see if it is NOT dead? (VOM again sorry)
sparx

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sparx

Thickfog

Could you please give a sig of you rig, you know the parts? Maybe go to Usercp up top left on the page and enter in there then it will follow your posts and you won't have to re-enter it.

Do you by chance have a VOM meter?

I wonder if your power supply is providing strange voltages?
This is your second motherboard so we have to look elsewhere.

This PW5 is a good board and worth the effort, don't give up yet. ;)
Edit: Also is there a way for you to check the CMOS battery and see if it is NOT dead? (VOM again sorry)
sparx

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Ya I think i got a VOM meter around here somewhere.. Ill go look for it.
So just unplug them all and test to see if the right voltages are right? which one do you expect is not working?

I also noticed the 2.00v for the ram is purple, and it wasnt purple before (to the best of my knowledge)

I just want you to check the voltages coming out of the power supply when ALL cables are disconnnected from the mother board and drives etc.

What voltage is the RAM you have rated at, it has to take 2.0 volts?

Let me know when you find the meter.
Also you have the RAM in the orange slots correct? Also have you run with ONE stick of RAM?

Was it you that ran Memorytest 86 on the ram and got no errors?

Sorry for all the questions, this rig at default speed should be allowing you to install windows for criz sake.

sparx

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sparx

I just want you to check the voltages coming out of the power supply when ALL cables are disconnnected from the mother board and drives etc.

What voltage is the RAM you have rated at, it has to take 2.0 volts?

Let me know when you find the meter.
Also you have the RAM in the orange slots correct? Also have you run with ONE stick of RAM?

Was it you that ran Memorytest 86 on the ram and got no errors?

Sorry for all the questions, this rig at default speed should be allowing you to install windows for criz sake.

sparx

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Ya it wa me who ran memtest86 and found no errors, that is the only time I have booted with only one stick of ram

http://www.corsairmemory.com/corsair...X2048-6400.pdf
I found this on the corsair websight saying it is only tested at 1.9v I will change our ram voltges back to 1.9v

Yes they are both is the orange slots.

I will keep looking for a metter, and hopefully test it out.
The voltages in bios look ok though

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ThickFog

Ya it wa me who ran memtest86 and found no errors, that is the only time I have booted with only one stick of ram

http://www.corsairmemory.com/corsair...X2048-6400.pdf
I found this on the corsair websight saying it is only tested at 1.9v I will change our ram voltges back to 1.9v

Yes they are both is the orange slots.

I will keep looking for a metter, and hopefully test it out.
The voltages in bios look ok though

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Well don't go by the BIOS voltages.
You will need to take a paper clip and find the green lead on the ATX connector and jumper it to any black wire on the same ATX connector. THEN turn on the power supply.

Read the 12 and 5 volts from any molex connector. (yellow blk 12 v Red blk 5v)
The 3.3 rail is read through the Orange and any black conductor or the ATX connector.

Also did you clear the CMOS after flashing to 1305?
Check to see the battery is good, when you remove it this will clear the CMOS BTW.

Just another thought, be sure the clear cmos jumper is not in the "clear" position, should be to the left side of the 3 pins.

I've been away for a while.

A couple of weeks ago someone asked if 2.3V was okay for G.Skill HZ memory running 24/7. Up until a couple of days ago I would have said yes. Now I know better: both my sticks died within a day of each other after 3 months of use.

Sorry about the RAM. :(
sparx

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Sparx

Well don't go by the BIOS voltages.
You will need to take a paper clip and find the green lead on the ATX connector and jumper it to any black wire on the same ATX connector. THEN turn on the power supply.

Read the 12 and 5 volts from any molex connector. (yellow blk 12 v Red blk 5v)
The 3.3 rail is read through the Orange and any black conductor or the ATX connector.

Also did you clear the CMOS after flashing to 1305?
Check to see the battery is good, when you remove it this will clear the CMOS BTW.

Just another thought, be sure the clear cmos jumper is not in the "clear" position, should be to the left side of the 3 pins.

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Surprisingly, I disabled fire wire, and the jimcon controller, and windows has loaded up fine, infarct i right this post from my computer.

I still think i will check out those voltages for, they still were the culprit for the bios lockups, that could return any time.

Thanks again :)

Edit: My mobo came with the 1305 bios, i never flashed them. is it worth updating to the 1503?

give it a whirl.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ThickFog

Surprisingly, I disabled fire wire, and the jimcon controller, and windows has loaded up fine, infarct i right this post from my computer.

I still think i will check out those voltages for, they still were the culprit for the bios lockups, that could return any time.

Thanks again :)

Edit: My mobo came with the 1305 bios, i never flashed them. is it worth updating to the 1503?

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Keep in mind it is still BETA, don't know how you feel with Beta bios. For me I'd rather just update my bios infrequently when I have no problems. The cold reboot is a pain however I don't have to reboot anymore except on rare occasion so I'm waiting on fully released 1503.

Oh and mine came with 1101 and has been fine with this bios.

Hi again, ok it's not the cat drivers as I'm stillgetting lockups in Fear. I've reset the memory to PC3200 but would really like to run it at PC6400. So anyone got an answer, is it timings or voltage of the modules?
ChrisC

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ThickFog

Surprisingly, I disabled fire wire, and the jimcon controller, and windows has loaded up fine, infarct i right this post from my computer.

I still think i will check out those voltages for, they still were the culprit for the bios lockups, that could return any time.

---

When I ran my board with the 20-pin ATX connector I had problems with firewire and the jmicron controller. The jmicron seemed to work ok in certain configs, but if configed wrong the system wouldn't even post (even the video wouldn't init). In XP I would have 32 ieee1394 host controllers in device manager when using the 20-pin ATX.

I would check the voltage on the ATX connector pins 11, 12 and 23 (look here). If those are good then maybe the connector is bad.

I can't seem to find info on the following two settings: CPU Internal Thermal Control and DRAM Thermal Throttling.

Could anyone enlighten me? :)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NghtShd

When I ran my board with the 20-pin ATX connector I had problems with firewire and the jmicron controller. The jmicron seemed to work ok in certain configs, but if configed wrong the system wouldn't even post (even the video wouldn't init). In XP I would have 32 ieee1394 host controllers in device manager when using the 20-pin ATX.

I would check the voltage on the ATX connector pins 11, 12 and 23 (look here). If those are good then maybe the connector is bad.

---

ThickFog
Glad you got it running. :D

Nghtshd, are you thinking the atx connector on the Power Supply is bad?
sparx

New: Intel Matrix Storage Manager 6.2.0.2002 WHQL BETA
Vista, XP compatible
Date: 29/09/2006

http://drivers.softpedia.com/get/Oth...002-WHQL.shtml

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DutchBBQ

New: Intel Matrix Storage Manager 6.2.0.2002 WHQL BETA
Vista, XP compatible
Date: 29/09/2006

http://drivers.softpedia.com/get/Oth...002-WHQL.shtml

---

page not found

iLL

But no thanks really, so I'll cast the first stone....
Your post no 1 and its reference to Antec HE PSU's is out of date and should be removed.

Yes maybe early Antec's with certain Asus motherboards had issues, mainly the A8R-MVP, which didn't like modular PSU's. However Antec were humble enough and accepted replacing those that had problems.

Thing is you don't actually know who makes your PSU these days, it could be anybody, even Q-Tec, god forbid....

I know, for a fact, that the Neo HE 550 is actually made by Seasonic, mmmm, don't see many knocking them.

Evidence?

Here http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/370 if you care to read.

Now would somebody either help me or point me it right direction so my query is answered, please:slobber:
Chrisc

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by SKiLL3D

page not found

iLL

---

same here

http://drivers.softpedia.com/get/Oth...002-WHQL.shtml

here you go Intel Matrix Storage Manager 6.2.0.2002 WHQL

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by cuke2u

But no thanks really, so I'll cast the first stone....
Your post no 1 and its reference to Antec HE PSU's is out of date and should be removed.

Yes maybe early Antec's with certain Asus motherboards had issues, mainly the A8R-MVP, which didn't like modular PSU's. However Antec were humble enough and accepted replacing those that had problems.

Thing is you don't actually know who makes your PSU these days, it could be anybody, even Q-Tec, god forbid....

I know, for a fact, that the Neo HE 550 is actually made by Seasonic, mmmm, don't see many knocking them.

Evidence?

Here http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/370 if you care to read.

Now would somebody either help me or point me it right direction so my query is answered, please:slobber:
Chrisc

---

Drop yer multi and start pushing and testing the ram...no way to know to tell you to give it more voltage if you haven't thoroughly tested it and found the sweet spot yourself...take it out of the equation then you can look elsewhere (like drivers).

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GLENBOY

http://drivers.softpedia.com/get/Oth...002-WHQL.shtml

here you go Intel Matrix Storage Manager 6.2.0.2002 WHQL

---

BETA right?

yes its beta working fine though just installed on mine no probs

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NghtShd

When I ran my board with the 20-pin ATX connector I had problems with firewire and the jmicron controller. The jmicron seemed to work ok in certain configs, but if configed wrong the system wouldn't even post (even the video wouldn't init). In XP I would have 32 ieee1394 host controllers in device manager when using the 20-pin ATX.

I would check the voltage on the ATX connector pins 11, 12 and 23 (look here). If those are good then maybe the connector is bad.

---

I knew my luck had to end sometime.. so im getting the bios lockups again. windows restarted randomly, and now i get get past the hit tab or f8 screen.

On the 24 pin power supply cable, on the 20pin connector (not the extra 4 I have to plug in) i seam to be missing one of the pins entirely, the square is there but no cable or metal connector. Normal?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sparx

ThickFog
Glad you got it running. :D

Nghtshd, are you thinking the atx connector on the Power Supply is bad?
sparx

---

The board seems to be behaving similar to how mine did with the extra 12v, 5v and 3.3v connections missing. If it is a power issue then it could be the PSU or possibly the connection to the board or one of those wires.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NghtShd

The board seems to be behaving similar to how mine did with the extra 12v, 5v and 3.3v connections missing. If it is a power issue then it could be the PSU or possibly the connection to the board or one of those wires.

---

12v is the extra 4 pins in the atx connector, and the 3.3v is the one next to the cpu? were is the 5v?

Is that missing pin normal ? (post above)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ThickFog

12v is the extra 4 pins in the atx connector, and the 3.3v is the one next to the cpu? were is the 5v?

Is that missing pin normal ? (post above)

---

Yeah a missing pin 20 is normal on newer PSUs. Pin 23 is +5v, pin 11 is +12v and pin 12 is +3.3v. Of course, you shouldn't only check those, I just know my board runs without those connected at all, but is very unstable and weird acting, so I'd check them first.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by TWY

I can't seem to find info on the following two settings: CPU Internal Thermal Control and DRAM Thermal Throttling.

Could anyone enlighten me? :)

---

DRAM Thermal Throttling - I think this hurts an overclock, I have always disabled it.

CPU Internal Thermal Control: does no harm to an overclock - I have 3.6GHz plus ocs that are 48hr+ Orthos stable that have this enabled. I can't see anything that it actually does, but as it might be responsible for throttling the CPU to prevent heat damage (speculation) I leave it on.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GLENBOY

http://drivers.softpedia.com/get/Oth...002-WHQL.shtml

here you go Intel Matrix Storage Manager 6.2.0.2002 WHQL

---

Hey is there an XP x64 version of this driver?

I was able to install the Thermalright 120 ultra as a replacement for the Big Typhoon but the Ortho Load temps dropped only a small amount from 68C to 64C which is only 7F, which is basically nothing.

The idle temps went from 42C to 36C. I have to say the mounting system of the 120 Ultra is better than the Typhoon, but this conversion was a waste in my situation, a waste of time and money.

I also received the HR-05 MCH (northbridge) thermalright heat sink but was unable to install because the hardware included does not mate up with the loops on the PW5 DH. In additon it would be a very tight fit with the big cpu heat sink so close.

I hope I can return the Hr-05 for a small restocking fee. Maybe after the AS5 burns in a little the temps will drop some, but I doubt they will. :rolleyes: If you have a BIG Typhoon with decent temps save your money and stay with it.

sparx

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by davexl

DRAM Thermal Throttling - I think this hurts an overclock, I have always disabled it.

CPU Internal Thermal Control: does no harm to an overclock - I have 3.6GHz plus ocs that are 48hr+ Orthos stable that have this enabled. I can't see anything that it actually does, but as it might be responsible for throttling the CPU to prevent heat damage (speculation) I leave it on.

---

Thanks.. :D

I'm quite puzzled on the DRAM throttling one though.. Wonder how this works, and I don't think there are any sensors on the RAMs to begin with.. :confused:

the swiftech mcx159-cu definitely fits, and its only a little worse than the hr-05

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sparx

I was able to install the Thermalright 120 ultra as a replacement for the Big Typhoon but the Ortho Load temps dropped only a small amount from 68C to 64C which is only 7F, which is basically nothing.

The idle temps went from 42C to 36C. I have to say the mounting system of the 120 Ultra is better than the Typhoon, but this conversion was a waste in my situation, a waste of time and money.

I also received the HR-05 MCH (northbridge) thermalright heat sink but was unable to install because the hardware included does not mate up with the loops on the PW5 DH. In additon it would be a very tight fit with the big cpu heat sink so close.

I hope I can return the Hr-05 for a small restocking fee. Maybe after the AS5 burns in a little the temps will drop some, but I doubt they will. :rolleyes: If you have a BIG Typhoon with decent temps save your money and stay with it.

sparx

---

I suppose it comes down to expectations - I got a 10C drop in Load temps by replacing my Typhoon with the Ultra-120. But it is replacing a great cooler with an awesome one. I don't think we will see much more dramatic gains in the future.

Well now my problem has progressed to one of three situations;

1)I get 100% stuck at the choose del or f8 screen

2)The mobo reads the ram as PC2-5200 and i get an overvoltage error forcing me into bios were all settings are fine (i use sparxs recommendations)

3) i get into windows were, i recive a random restart, with no set time variable

I also checked the voltages, everthing seams to check out. Most of the voltages are a tenth off, and about 0.11-0.3 of noise.

Arg...What can we do now...

Thickfog,

Reset your mobo to all stock settings and it should be fine then tweek each custom setting one by one that will lead you to your problem

Hope this helps

P.s.. your ram reads at 5200 becuase your probaly have it set to 667 set it to 800 and it will be 6400 then

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dmilazzo78

Thickfog,

Reset your mobo to all stock settings and it should be fine then tweek each custom setting one by one that will lead you to your problem

Hope this helps

P.s.. your ram reads at 5200 becuase your probaly have it set to 667 set it to 800 and it will be 6400 then

---

Flash my bios, or just reset to defults?

Right noe my settings have my ram as ddr2-800, i still ocassionaly get the overvoltage error

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sparx

I was able to install the Thermalright 120 ultra as a replacement for the Big Typhoon but the Ortho Load temps dropped only a small amount from 68C to 64C which is only 7F, which is basically nothing.

The idle temps went from 42C to 36C. I have to say the mounting system of the 120 Ultra is better than the Typhoon, but this conversion was a waste in my situation, a waste of time and money.

I also received the HR-05 MCH (northbridge) thermalright heat sink but was unable to install because the hardware included does not mate up with the loops on the PW5 DH. In additon it would be a very tight fit with the big cpu heat sink so close.

I hope I can return the Hr-05 for a small restocking fee. Maybe after the AS5 burns in a little the temps will drop some, but I doubt they will. :rolleyes: If you have a BIG Typhoon with decent temps save your money and stay with it.

sparx

---

I don't know what you expected, but 4 C under load is a decent difference, especially since you already had a good cooler... I wouldn't say you wasted anything.

Pity about the HR-05 though... I was thinking about getting one of those myself.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Pol1977

I don't know what you expected, but 4 C under load is a decent difference, especially since you already had a good cooler... I wouldn't say you wasted anything.

Pity about the HR-05 though... I was thinking about getting one of those myself.

---

use the steel bracket from the original cooler on the hr-05, works on my board.

Hi OldGuy and many thanks for your reply. I can test is with memtest right? Right now I've dropped the memory timings to 5 5 5 15. I didn't get any crashes with Fear but I will test further....
ChrisC

cpu overvoltage error can usually be avoided by disabling vcore monitoring in the bios.

thank you guys.
After twist and turn MY MB LAN1 not working any more. So I'm using LAN2. But after twist and turn again my MB sound plug not working at all. Called customer service they do some test on BIOS and they asked me to sent the MB back to them for repair it. What is the F with this MB. So many problems. Is there any better MB from ASUS that use for E6600? Thanks:confused: :mad: :nono:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by GLENBOY

http://drivers.softpedia.com/get/Oth...002-WHQL.shtml

here you go Intel Matrix Storage Manager 6.2.0.2002 WHQL

---

Or straight from ASUS FTP site:

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/misc/...a_V6202002.zip

this boards overclocking is very strange. i can get 3.1ghz(443x7) with my e6300 with all stock voltages but no matter what voltages I increase it will not be stable anything past that. hope they release a bios that fixes FSB wall problems, i'm sure this board can do 500+ with the right bios. anyone else run into something like this?

I finally solved (a part of it...) my long boot problems. It was a faulty (or dying) hard drive.

My dealer exchange it for free for a new one, and i bought a second one to do a RAID 0 config (2X Seagate 7200.10 320Gb). When I power off/on, I'm in Windows XP in around 30 seconds!!!

But... If I reboot and don't power off/on, then it still takes around 2 minutes... or more... Sigh...

Can a "pro" explain to me what's the difference between the reboot and the power off/on cycle? What's happening in the reboot that is not happening (or is happening...) when I power the computer on?

What could explain those differences in boot time?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by rivlez

this boards overclocking is very strange. i can get 3.1ghz(443x7) with my e6300 with all stock voltages but no matter what voltages I increase it will not be stable anything past that. hope they release a bios that fixes FSB wall problems, i'm sure this board can do 500+ with the right bios. anyone else run into something like this?

---

At 443 you have probably hit the chipsets limit,only increased cooling or voltage to the northbridge will get your fsb higher.Due to the extremely low multi/high fsb of the e6300,i'd say e6300 + p5wdh is a poor choice for overclocking.965 chipset would have been a better and cheaper option if you dont run crossfire.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Thickbrit

At 443 you have probably hit the chipsets limit,only increased cooling or voltage to the northbridge will get your fsb higher.Due to the extremely low multi/high fsb of the e6300,i'd say e6300 + p5wdh is a poor choice for overclocking.965 chipset would have been a better and cheaper option if you dont run crossfire.

---

i have water cooling on the northbridge and cpu and a nice cooler on the southbridge but still thats its limit. that cpu does 3.6ghz easy on my p5b deluxe.

As you have water on the northy,you may want to try the chipset vmod and take it up to 1.9/1.95v,but if you already have 1.85v vmch in bios,it probably isn't worth it.You are pretty much near the limit anyway,mine on water with 1.95v cant 32m beyond 455.

ya i'm not gonna mess with it, i think with an e6600 or higher it would be a nice board to OC with. 3.1ghz is dual prime 95 stable for 24 hours but anything higher does not pass prime 95. but anyway i'm gonna get an e6600 or a kentsfield soon.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ThickFog

Well now my problem has progressed to one of three situations;

1)I get 100% stuck at the choose del or f8 screen

2)The mobo reads the ram as PC2-5200 and i get an overvoltage error forcing me into bios were all settings are fine (i use sparxs recommendations)

3) i get into windows were, i recive a random restart, with no set time variable

I also checked the voltages, everthing seams to check out. Most of the voltages are a tenth off, and about 0.11-0.3 of noise.

Arg...What can we do now...

---

Anyone have any idea were i can proceed from here?

This is pretty depressing, bulding my first computer and nothing will work :(

Could the cpu be at fault?, Anyhelp would be greatly apprciated.

I haven't followed your case, but it sounds like you may have a faulty power supply. I'm assuming that you have both the 20+4-pin ATX and 4-pin 12v connectors attached. Do you have the same results when running with default BIOS settings (i.e stock)?

-phil

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ThickFog

Anyone have any idea were i can proceed from here?

This is pretty depressing, bulding my first computer and nothing will work :(

Could the cpu be at fault?, Anyhelp would be greatly apprciated.

---

I seriously doubt that it's the CPU.

Even though you bought a good PSU brand/model, I would swap out the PSU. If you can't borrow a good one you might consider buying one at a place with a liberal return policy. If a different PSU doesn't help or you can't aquire one for testing then RMA the board.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by DutchBBQ

Or straight from ASUS FTP site:

ftp://ftp.asus.com.tw/pub/ASUS/misc/...a_V6202002.zip

---

these look like vista intel matrix drivers finally

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Thickbrit

Due to the extremely low multi/high fsb of the e6300,i'd say e6300 + p5wdh is a poor choice for overclocking.

---

Well, not if the plan is to learn how things work then go with a Quad CPU next year. Although it may be late next year since only the Duo models will probably go down very fast...

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Levesque

I finally solved (a part of it...) my long boot problems. It was a faulty (or dying) hard drive.

My dealer exchange it for free for a new one, and i bought a second one to do a RAID 0 config (2X Seagate 7200.10 320Gb). When I power off/on, I'm in Windows XP in around 30 seconds!!!

But... If I reboot and don't power off/on, then it still takes around 2 minutes... or more... Sigh...

Can a "pro" explain to me what's the difference between the reboot and the power off/on cycle? What's happening in the reboot that is not happening (or is happening...) when I power the computer on?

What could explain those differences in boot time?

---

Ok a reboot is known as a warm start(hence being called a reboot) and the other is known as a cold boot where everything has to be loaded from being off. I think this describes It, Others may be able to say more as I've forgotten too much over the 26 years I've been using computers of various types to be totally sure.

Thank you Joker.

I'm just trying to understand why a cold reboot is faster then a warm reboot in my case... 30 seconds for a cold reboot and more then 2 minutes for a warm reboot.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by davexl

I suppose it comes down to expectations - I got a 10C drop in Load temps by replacing my Typhoon with the Ultra-120. But it is replacing a great cooler with an awesome one. I don't think we will see much more dramatic gains in the future.

---

I gained about 6C's but I think my cooling with the Big Typhoon may have been above average.

I have a 1600 rpm 120 mm Scythe fan on it now, thought I had a 1200 on it :( so now I am even more dissatisfied than I was yesterday! :mad:

Dave, I think you have 2 fans on yours.

sparx

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NghtShd

I seriously doubt that it's the CPU.

Even though you bought a good PSU brand/model, I would swap out the PSU. If you can't borrow a good one you might consider buying one at a place with a liberal return policy. If a different PSU doesn't help or you can't aquire one for testing then RMA the board.

---

This is his 2nd board, I suggested he has a power supply issue some time back.
sparx

I wanted to ask if anyone might have a link to a different temperature monitoring program other than "Core Temp 0.93"?

I would like to monitor from Windows with a different program and compare.

Core temp 93 provide a temp of 64C at idle today when I ran it after I got back from work! After rebooting the computer I got a temp read of 46C.

TIA
sparx

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sparx

This is his 2nd board, I suggested he has a power supply issue some time back.
sparx

---

As did I, but I'd forgotten it was his second board. So, OK then, don't RMA the board, get another PSU. These boards seem to be particularly intolerant of power irregularities.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NghtShd

As did I, but I'd forgotten it was his second board. So, OK then, don't RMA the board, get another PSU. These boards seem to be particularly intolerant of power irregularities.

---

Yes I cannot see what else it could be really. He tried one stick of RAM already. A 500 watt PS is marginal for overclocking but should work with default BIOS settings. He should be able to load Windows using Default BIOS settings. Of course I like to Disable lots of stuff in BIOS I need to be "off" after setting to Default or Optimized regardless.

I would go for a 600 watt power supply at the very minimum. Power consumpution is always increasing with these rigs. If you order from Newegg and the problem is not the PS they will at least give you a decent return option. Stay away from Directron. :nono: Or even better go to Best Buy and get a power supply they will accept without restock fees.

sparx

Updated thread.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sparx

I wanted to ask if anyone might have a link to a different temperature monitoring program other than "Core Temp 0.93"?

I would like to monitor from Windows with a different program and compare.

Core temp 93 provide a temp of 64C at idle today when I ran it after I got back from work! After rebooting the computer I got a temp read of 46C.

TIA
sparx

---

Sounds like something wasn't idling then. :)

I have never had a problem with it, but I use it very little - I use systool to read the same sensor (with a -15C offset it shows identical readings to Core Temp)

I neglected to check the Processes section in Task Manager. :eek:

What do you mean by a "-15C" offset?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sparx

Dave, I think you have 2 fans on yours.

sparx

---

True - but the second really only knocks off 1.5C - barely worth it, but the reason I do it is so I can run them both at 800-1200 rpm silently, rather than one loudly.

Airflow in the case is very significant too - fixing my intake and allowing more air in the top-front of the case saves 5C. Not used to that, side intakes with a Typhoon is an easier airflow to get right. Front to back is hard.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sparx

Yes I cannot see what else it could be really. He tried one stick of RAM already. A 500 watt PS is marginal for overclocking but should work with default BIOS settings. He should be able to load Windows using Default BIOS settings. Of course I like to Disable lots of stuff in BIOS I need to be "off" after setting to Default or Optimized regardless.

I would go for a 600 watt power supply at the very minimum. Power consumpution is always increasing with these rigs. If you order from Newegg and the problem is not the PS they will at least give you a decent return option. Stay away from Directron. :nono: Or even better go to Best Buy and get a power supply they will accept without restock fees.

sparx

---

I think the problem is in my ram now though..

I test my psu voltages last night and everything checked out fine, most voltages were about a tenth off, and on DC current i got about 0.11-0.13.

Really bummed, The last thing I could test (should have tried before) i boot windows individually with each stick of ram. The first stick windows never fully booted would restart and get stuck on the post screen

The second stick though works fine and the computer has ran for over 4hrs without restarting.

So the first stick of ram must be the culprit

Now for another question. With my bios settings set at ddr2-800, cpu-z reads under the spd tab under 400mhz as 5.0, 5, 5, 18, 22

My ram is rated at 5,5,5,12 shoulnt it read that way

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by ThickFog

I think the problem is in my ram now though..

I test my psu voltages last night and everything checked out fine, most voltages were about a tenth off, and on DC current i got about 0.11-0.13.

Really bummed, The last thing I could test (should have tried before) i boot windows individually with each stick of ram. The first stick windows never fully booted would restart and get stuck on the post screen

The second stick though works fine and the computer has ran for over 4hrs without restarting.

So the first stick of ram must be the culprit

Now for another question. With my bios settings set at ddr2-800, cpu-z reads under the spd tab under 400mhz as 5.0, 5, 5, 18, 22

My ram is rated at 5,5,5,12 shoulnt it read that way

---

I had asked you if you ran with one stick of RAM somewhere back in this thread - we got crossed up in our signals I guess. :confused:

Well anyway it sounds like you may have it this time. I don't want to bad mouth a particular brand of RAM but I choose OCZ or G.skill over Corsair.

Time for an RMA to Corsair.
Glad you have made progress. :D

BTW CPUZ reads my G.skill's last timing (Trc) as "1" and it should be "21". Anyway the SPD timing will not run as per specified timings - don't worry about that. After you get two new sticks of RAM you should set the timings in the BIOS and NOT use SPD.
Also I would recommend going to 1503 BIOS.

sparx

I just built a machine using the P5W DH Deluxe and the C2D E6700. (This is my third BYOPC... so I'm still learning quite a bit!) The machine has 2GB Corsair TWIN2X2048-8500C5 with 5-5-5-15 timings at 1066 w/ 2.2v. I have a RAID 0 cluster w/ 16K/16K stripes/clusters. I haven't really overclocked anything yet. The CPU Frequency is set at 266. The DRAM Frequency at DDR2-533. I manually set timings at the above settings. The machine runs Super-Pi in about 18 seconds currently.

I have a very capable AMD 4000+ box with a similar configuration that I use for benchmarking. I fully expected that the E6700 w/should be outperforming the older 4000+, all other things being held fairly equal. My expectation is shown accurate with Super-Pi, for example. The AMD box runs it (1M) in like 37 seconds. The E6700 comes in about 18 seconds. Just what I expected. Super-Pi is obviously a very CPU intensive task, I would assume.

Here's where the weirdness comes in. I have a program that I wrote that performs a task for me. It's both disk and processor intensive. The first time I ran it on the E6700 box, it completed in about 36 minutes. Compare this to the AMD box's best of 51 minutes. Nice. As expected. The second and most of the subsequent runs of this program on the E6700 box, however, yielded worse times, frequently around 1 hour and 6 minutes. That's worse than the AMD box. That is NOT expected. Why are my run times varying? I'd guess I've run this program about 10 times. 2 of the ten times it ran in about 36 minutes, the rest around an hour.

Any ideas what is going on here? I've tried to minimize the number of programs that are being loaded, but still have some work to do there. Also, the memory timings for the DDR-400 for the AMD box are lower (3-3-3-8) than the 5-5-5-15 of the E6700. Some sites say that I can get lower timings on my RAM, but I can't figure out how to get that to work. Learning certainly is fun.

thickfog,

glad to here you found the problem make sure you verify that the slot on the mobo is not the problem by putting the known good ram stick in that slot and running it that way.

The the reason you see 400mhz in that spd program is normal its dual channel each channel runs at 400mhz for a grand total of 800mhz per stick so that is fine Mine reads the same way stumped me for awhile

Good Luck

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by dmilazzo78

thickfog,

glad to here you found the problem make sure you verify that the slot on the mobo is not the problem by putting the known good ram stick in that slot and running it that way.

The the reason you see 400mhz in that spd program is normal its dual channel each channel runs at 400mhz for a grand total of 800mhz per stick so that is fine Mine reads the same way stumped me for awhile

Good Luck

---

Didn't know he was questioning the 400 mhz reading thought it was the timings.

Try to reset your timing and make sure to f10 and save I know it sounds simple but its a good place to start

I had this wierd problem with my pc that apparently nobody else on earth has experienced: The second core would stop working after a few days of leaving my pc on. Sometimes even only a few hours after turning my pc on. I searched with google through many pc enthusiasts sites such as this one and couldn't find anything regarding this. I tried doing a fresh installation of windows and reinstalling the cpu into the mobo and it didn't help. I found a fix for it by perusing through this site. Someone wanted to benchmark how fast their cpu could do superpi or something like that with one core going 100% and the second core unused. someone told him to go to run and type msconfig, click on boot.ini and then advanced options. select numproc= and then type in 1. So I did that but typed in 2. It's been at least a week of running my pc 24/7 and the second core hasn't stopped working yet so I think this fixed my problem. Since I put my pc together it's never gone more than three days without the second core crapping out. Just wanted to mention it in case someone else had the same problem.