How is that Socket A blok connected to the s754? :stick:
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How is that Socket A blok connected to the s754? :stick:
All I did was to unscrew the plastic heatsink holder around the socket and removed it from the MB, then placed the socket A water block on it centrally on a flat surface (table), then marked all four holes through WB with a marker, I then removed the WB, after I drilled holes where the marks were, then I ran the screws through the underside of the heatsink holder, later I re-attached the whole lot back on around the socket (with the two mounting holes and screws). I did not use the original DD screws but ones bought in a wardware store as they were more shallow at the end, because my fear was that the originals would make contact with the MB on the underside, the other benefit is that the screws from the wardware store are only one piece instead of 2, after remount the waterblock using the springs and plastic washers to the new socket 754 MB.
Also I had to sand the four legs/stands on the underside of the plastic holder, with a sheet of sandpaper on a flat surface I removed a couple mm so that the WB can make good contact with DTR.
I did setup the water cooling without first sanding "all ok and quite low temps, but after I sanded I noticed a drop in temp of about 4-5 degrees.
Here is my new project...
I still have a lot of things I plan to do to it yet but this is how it is now.
I still have a 120.3 Performance shroud on its way, some EP exclusive fan grills. A little more colour planning still to be done.
Then I will tidy up the cabling, add another fan controller to the Floppy drive bay and install a fan covering the Ram and PWM IC on the DFI SLI-DR.
What are you opinions so far?
http://img87.echo.cx/img87/9887/dscf11702od.th.jpg
http://img87.echo.cx/img87/9887/dscf11702od.th.jpg
3700+ San Diego
DFI SLI-DR
Lian-Li PC75
Storm G4
HE120.3 + Performance shroud
AquaXtreme 50Z-DC12-T
X850XT
Silverprop HL
Fillport
Panaflo M1's
Tygon R1000
Looks okay :up: Temps?
Your water cooling looks well put together and tidy.
my sick :D
DangerDen TDX/Maze4 + Iwaki MD20-R + handmade
Holy crap. Got enough liquid in that resevoir?
Very original, what are your temps iMAX?
Holy.....wood ^_^.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
Resevoir is about 25 liter of water anh enough for me :p:
Resevoir is RAD. j/k :p: I'm waiting DD BlackIce :slobber:
Temp idle is 32C and fl 40C, rom temp 30C :DQuote:
Originally Posted by DFI pit bull
Hey, it’s my first build (April 2005), never studied/done the OC thing before …
so go easy on me ...
So this is my first attempt/experience with many things, including W/C.
As you can see I’m quite the LanParty animal – looks are everything!! (not).
Actually I’d gone through an XP-120 with 120cfm fan trying to get this bad-boy FX55 under 60C with OC/load (unsuccessfully I might add) . My goal was pure functionality …
I found success! I now run 42C to 45C max oc load on cpu (and pwmic)
My new system has exceeded my expectations. I’m very very pleased with my initial results!! Now, where are those dualies?? Bring em on!
Here is my main parts list:
Radiator – very pleased with this one!
Get the shroud! and the fans .. all the goodies come with it, very nice/simple setup
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/home.php?cat=14
Water block – very simple installation – seems ok, used the stock restrictor/pressure thing, but have the others that I could play with later.
http://www.dangerdenstore.com/produ...7&cat=21&page=1
Pump – seems ok 350gph 10’ head
http://www.yourpondstore.com/keysea...d-keywords=mag3
Local grocery store provided the 1.25 gallon drinking water container .. Lowe’s provided the fittings for the reservoir.
Here is a look inside the cooler case
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...olerInside.png
Cpu -> Radiator -> top of reservoir -> bottom of reservoir -> pump in -> pump out -> cpu
Take a close look at that Radiator mounting .. this is a CompUSA branded mini-tower that sells without a PS for $29.00. I was worried about pain of mod'ing/mounting the rad to the back panel, but it turns out that the motherboard framework on this thing provided a square slot that fit the radiator PERFECTLY! I simply tie-wrapped the top in to hold it in place. Cutting the rivets of the drive tray framework and removing it was simple.
Here is a look at the outside of the cooler case. Gonna be working on re-routing the tubes to the back
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y19...lerOutside.png
I am also in the market for a good pump. They say there is little reason to have a eheim any more, well I still have a Hydor L30 that came with my first WC setup, and I guess that is even less powerful than the eheim. The dangerden/lain DCC pump you have pictured is really interesting - it has a lot of 'head' as you call it. That meaning it is powerful despite its small size and useful in loops with much resistance. The max flow is not the best however, but the worst thing about it is the noise afaik. I think I read about that in a review sometime ago. Do you guys know of a pump that is quiter than the L30 and still more powerful? That doesn't cost 100 $ of course.. I'm not very rich :(Quote:
Originally Posted by GravediggA
Also when I see all you guys' pictures I'm thinking.. Isn't it better to have the T-mounted refill hose on the intake of the pump, instead of the output? Or does it matter at all? In the end I am also a bit confused about this whole pressure vs. flow topic.. what the heck is the difference of the two? Oh well I wrote much longer than I intended :p:
The Laing DDC is not a noisy pump. It's very quiet. I don't have any experience with L30's but I doubt the DDC makes more noise.
Max flow of the DDC is something which surprises me. With the standard top it's low; ~350LPH.
Why is it so low? Because there is a 90 degrees bend right in front of the inlet of the pump. With a modded top the max flow is almost doubled.
The interesting thing is that the modded DDC GravediggA actually has a top inlet which removes the 90 degrees bend. Many people don't know this and don't use it, but it might improve max flow a lot. Maybe not double it, since the inlet does look rather small, but it should be an improvement.
No, not yet, but i will have one soon. :)
It's an Cape Coolplex 25. http://www.alphacool.de/perl/shop.pl...150&art_kz=157
I'd hesitate in getting that reservoir. It seems like double-trouble. It uses uses Aluminum and Plexiglass. If you have copper in the loop with Aluminum, it's prone to corrosion. Also, Plexi is prone to micro fractures which leads to leaks.
if u really want a res, I have NEVER had any leaks with angel eyes bay res, all I run is zerex + distilled water. No metals and looks great, u do have to be very careful though and not stress the threads for the screws too much. Other than that, I had it for 2 yrs no leaks.
Hi there guys 'n' galls...
Right here are a few pics of my new case and watercooling setup. I loved my old Wavemaster but it was just too small for 1/2" ID water hose.
The components are:
Lian-Li PC75
DFI SLI-DR
3700+ San Diego @ 2.9ghz
X850XTPE
OCZ Powerstream 600w
74gb Raptor
Water stuff:
Thermochill HE 120.3
Thermochill Performance shroud
Danger Den Fillport
Panaflo M1's
Tygon r1000
Cather's Storm G4
Aqua Extreme A50z
Silverprop HL
Here goes....
http://img299.echo.cx/img299/787/dscf11810qm.th.jpg
http://img299.echo.cx/img299/2135/dscf11735ey.th.jpg
http://img299.echo.cx/img299/8902/dscf11792jf.th.jpg
Performance wise, I couldnt be happier... its virtually silent and if I wanna play games or load the CPU heavily then I can crank the fans up to keep the temps constantly low.
Temps are good. Idle is 28-30.c load is around 38.c thats with the 3700+ SD @ 1.65v, and the X850XTPE at 570/600
Quote:
Originally Posted by fareastgq
What size hole did you cut for the 120 openings?
I used a dremel and made them a bit bigger than the 120mm fan holes.
What about the size you used to cut the 120 mm holes? Im not good enough with my dremel skills yet hehe.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cashman
ill help you out here bud, 114mm hole saw was used on those holes
lol ello BAcon mate :)
Yeah.. before I take all the credit... it was Mr BAcon that cut the case and choose all the watercooling stuff :)
You will need a 114mm holsaw and an Arbor to cut the hole... however take it from someone who knows... get this done properly or you'll be wanting a new £140 case! :)
Bacon.. what do you think of it now then?
What is an Arbor?
its the middle part of the drill that will attatch the holesaw to the drill.
Nice upgrades there Cashman. Much better than they were before.
Usama aka Ferrari Freak
not usually a uv fan, but your few alterations look very suave indeedQuote:
Originally Posted by Cashman
im liking it bud ;)