Elder: i suggest to move one of those rads somewhere else, eg. to hang on the back of case or in bottom compartment. To use rads this way is rather inefficient, as you basically cool one rad with air preheated by other.
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Elder: i suggest to move one of those rads somewhere else, eg. to hang on the back of case or in bottom compartment. To use rads this way is rather inefficient, as you basically cool one rad with air preheated by other.
Black obsession
http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...n/SDC10070.jpg
http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...n/SDC10069.jpg
http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...n/SDC10072.jpg
http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...n/SDC10074.jpg
http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...n/SDC10076.jpg
http://i1187.photobucket.com/albums/...n/SDC10040.jpg
Build log can be find here
cstkl1, if you use the Koolance shroud then yes and in my case I cut out the mesh at the top of the 800D and did a push/pull. I have even seen some that don't even use the shroud, however it is not as attractive. Have a look at these pics.Quote:
Originally Posted by cstkl1
Hope this helps
Snelleedie, very nice rig. I like the copper tubing, been wanting to do that myself for some time, but wasn't sure if there would be any issues with leaking. Did you use 1/2" tubing with .035 wall? Also I followed your link to your worklog, really like what you have done, just curious though..when you flushed your rads you had the supply and return going into the same container without a filter inline. Won't this just put the junk from the rad right back into the rad? Check out my video here on how I flushed the rads and how much junk is in them.http://www.youtube.com/user/WestCoas.../2/X9TwhwVlllo
churchyQuote:
Originally Posted by churchy
This is just an experiment.
Instantaneous solution.
Planning a new rev of the two circuits and 2x SR1 560.
Obsidian is too small for that so I make a new case.
Snelleedie very nice!!!
a question, you have to hand the separator plate measures the environment and what type of plate is?
Thx LazymanQuote:
Originally Posted by LazyMan
while i cleaned the radiator there was no filter between i will keep it in mind with my new CM ^^
The plate it self is 1 mm aluminum for the measures i cant give u those.Quote:
Originally Posted by gonzalo88
I have made that case for a friend of mine and its back to his place
Just curious, but is that some type of cable extender setup? I just ordered one of these cases to play around with, and I was wondering if something like this would be needed for cable management.Quote:
Originally Posted by LazyMan
Actually those are terminal blocks, you can find them at McMaster Carr. I used them just to reduce some of the clutter, pumps, cold cathodes, LEDs, basicly anything that uses a 12v positive and a ground. You will have to re-wire whatever you attach to them.
Hope this helps
VERY nice on that feser 360... I'd really love doing that, but am not very manual... can I dremel the top mesh of the case?
Current rig:
http://www.darkbrush.net/img/Stendha...ct/sp-fin6.jpg
Who is this question for?...btw nice job on your rig!
Thanks!
And the question was meant for you... I've been having very average temps with my swiftech rad, looking to upgrade to a better/bigger rad. I run low-med speed fans.
What is the rad on top of the 800D you just power a couple posts up?
The rads in the Skull Crusher are XSPC rads. You can use a dremel, but the cut wouldn't be as nice as if you used a jig saw especially around the corners. But I can tell you that cutting the mesh at the top will only help by a couple/few degrees. So if you having problems with your temps, it most likely not from the mesh at the top of the case.
I meant to say I will need to cut the mesh if I am going to put a big rad like a feser 360.
What's the fangrill you used on top of the Koolance shroud on that pic, LazyMan?
The 800d by default can hold a 360 radiator. You would only have to cut the top if you want to install a 140mm fan radiator, like a 420, or a quad 120mm fan radiator.Quote:
Originally Posted by TigerLord
Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk
I do not think my current setup will accommodate a feser 360 + push/pull + Koolance shroud without cutting off the mesh to raise the whole thing further.
I'm assuming you would be exhausting air out of the case through the radiator. What if you have it setup so push fans and radiator are mounted in the case, and the pull fans are outside the case inside the shroud? No need for cutting then.Quote:
Originally Posted by TigerLord
Sent from my Nexus One using Tapatalk
One more question. Where do you guys get your sleeving here in the US? I have an HX 1000 I'd like to sleeve up nice.
Edit: Found the Murder Mod site and ordered what I needed.
Thank you
I've been having some troubles with my cable management. I'm planning to strip down the PC next month and I would like some recommendations as to how I can neaten this up.
Inside view of case:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/_s...800/Inside.JPG
Back of the case:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/_s...t%20Needed.JPG
Paradoxxx: try P-clips/P wire saddles?
You can get them a lot cheaper here in the states from WireCare
Skull fan grills from MNPCTECHQuote:
Originally Posted by TigerLord
I think you should have no problem installing the Feser 360 with push /pull and the shroud..it may be a little tight, but I think it will fit. With the XSPC 360 there is about 3/4" room to spare between the fans and the mobo. The other fans(pull) will go on top of the case under the Koolance shroud.Quote:
Originally Posted by TigerLord
The only advice I can give you when it comes to cable mgmt. is take your time and have some patience. I recommend using cable clamps found at wirecare, they are very inexpensive and really make it easier to hold down your cables. But the difficult thing about using them is you need to drill and tap a 6/32 hole so they can be mounted. You can find the drill and tap at Home Depot You can buy them in sets too, but if all you need is a 6/32 this is the cheapest way to go.Quote:
Originally Posted by Paradoxxx
This can be very time consuming and labor intense as you will have to figure out where you will want to route the main cables..ie 24pin, 8pin, PCI-e cables....mark where you are going to mount a cable clamp with a silver Sharpe, then take all the components out of the case and then drill and tap for the cable clamps...then re-install all the components and route the cables that you have just drill for. Then you need to see where to route some of the other cables, trying to minimize crossover and entanglement. mark for holes, remove components, drill & tap and re-install components...this process may need to be repeated 3-4 times, (sometimes more) to get all the cables to look nice and to lay as flat as possible.
Hope this helps