It's finally coming together! Now is the time for the final push! Resist the urge to rush. Breath!!! Take your time figuring out the final mile design issues.
It's looking good!!!
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It's finally coming together! Now is the time for the final push! Resist the urge to rush. Breath!!! Take your time figuring out the final mile design issues.
It's looking good!!!
Excellent to hear your not a quiter, after all you wouldn't be posting work log on XS if you where.:up:
Either an L or U bracket will look sweet in the end. :up:
Just remember when using L brackets you will be playing with 3 pieces not 1, as quoted above, take your time.
I too are interested to know your new sponsor.
Ah Damm that made me laugh.
The BIG sponsor is not Hooters, guys, but it's still big. :P
I picked up some AL pieces on my way home on Friday cut to size for the shelf brackets, but they're 1/8", and after wrestling with my brake today/tonight there's no way that I can bend them. Too thick, so I'll have to pick up some 1/16" AL on Monday when the shop re-opens.
Sometimes the term "when it rains, it pours" really fits. Not a lot going right lately.
:shakes:
Ladies for the photos ofc, maybe wet-hooter-t-shirts if were lucky?
Alright, you guys are so anxious for hooters that I decided to give in and share a few.
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/9...ap3470x357.jpg
Come on, now. What did you think? That I'd show provocative pictures when there are ladies present here on the forum?
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/2...thornedowl.jpg
Although, in some cases, I've found that females also love hooters.
http://img693.imageshack.us/img693/5...ovehooters.jpg
:hehe:
You could always put levitating hooters in one of the windows. ; )
Uh Oh ... Xion's posting Hooter Pics :eek:
(Cute!)
So I'm not at the point that I wanted to be right now, but I'm still hard at work on completing the Zero-G chamber and have a small update to share.
My fab skills are still evolving. That, and my crazy brain keeps coming up with new ideas. The latest challenge has been getting the shelves into the chamber so that I can test the drive and pump mounts.
To begin, I need to state that the design of the Zero Gravity Chamber has changed a little. The reason for this is because I've decided to spotlight it in this build by making the front panel of the case retractable--allowing one to see inside the chamber even after it's installed in the case. I'll have more cad drawings on this later to better illustrate the idea, but for now, just picture the front panel as a door that swings open allowing open access to the Zero-G chamber.
Since I've decided to spotlight the chamber internals, I wanted to make them more attractive/innovative. And to do this, I believe that plexiglass will do the trick a lot better than metal shelving. It will also, from certain angles, give off the appearance that the components are weightless--even when looking at them from inside the chamber (I have photos below to illustrate what I mean.) In addition to using plexiglass for the shelving and drive mounts, I've decided to light the inside of the chamber with a softbox. This will give it a nice, even glow effect on the inside and help highlight the components.
A quick personal note -- Sometimes I wish that all these crazy ideas in my head would automatically materialize. Because the building part is much, MUCH more difficult. I know this, and I don't want to get too carried away with design changes so that I'm stuck in an endless circle (like a galaxy vortex?), but I'm pouring my heart and soul into this build and don't want to have any regrets later.
So if you made it through all that babbling, here are some updated CAD drawings to illustrate the new effects.
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/416/zg18copy.jpg
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/6407/zg19copy.jpg
http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/125/zg21copy.jpg
http://img686.imageshack.us/img686/9046/zg23copy.jpg
The entire inside will be made of plexiglass--at least that's the idea. I plan to experiment with some different adhesives such as epoxy to see how clean a bond I can make with the plexi, because I don't want something that's going to be messy since I'll be showing it off.
I don't know yet how well this is going to work; I may end up going back to metal shelves or metal brackets, or both. But I'm going to try this and see how well it works.
Here are some actual shots of the effect it will have on the pumps using a shelf of plexi that's been cut to size:
http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/9...660001copy.jpg
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/4...720001copy.jpg
You should be able to see through the shelves into the very bottom of the chamber. And at the bottom, I plan to add an additional effect later.
I'm afraid that's all I have for now. I was hoping to have a little more to share by this point, but I'll continue work and will hopefully have the chamber finished soon.
Thanks for checking in!
You just can't help stretching your self can you.
Personaly I feel if you think you can build thing rig and not have any regrets later, once finished, then your head is already stuck in an endless circling galactic vortexs.
I am sorry to say that, you my friend are a little like me, always think bigger, better, trying to out think your self, it's the addiction, of, what if, what if I try this, what if I change that, and so on.
At some point you will have to draw a line and then just collect all the new ideas for the next build, or you will never finish.
As for the epoxy, don't bother, you are wasting your time (in my opinion)
Just use this http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=130&
It's a different brand/name as to what I have used in the past but it will be the same, it's just one I found that is sold in the US.
Looking forward to your next update.:up:
Thanks, Darth. How visible is the bonding? A major concern of mine is that it goes on clear since I'm working w/ clear plexi.
Yeah, I'm definitely a perfectionist and a visionary. Always seeing ways to improve on things until I nearly drive myself crazy sometimes. Since my fab work is still a lot of learning on the job, it's even worse in this case. ;)
I'll get there, and it won't take forever.
Tonight I bent some mounting brackets for the plexi shelves. I went to Home Depot to look for that acrylic cement, and of course they had no idea what I was talking about or how to help. :rolleyes: I don't know why I bother w/ these hardware chains, sometimes. They never have what the hardcore modders need for their builds.
Looks good DB, I am not sure what it is but it does look like you have taken a lot of time designing and having it cut out.
Are you going to let me in on what it is?
As for if the join/s are visible once bonded.
The short answer is yes and no.
But do you ever get a short story from me, not yet! :ROTF:
Solvent cement (ONLY When joining square, tight fitting "perfect" joins) uses capillary action to draw the solvent cement along the join.
In this action (when horizontal) it will only move between tight fitting joins and will only take as much solvent cement as there is room for.
One the join is "Full" it will stop seeping (being drawn along the joint) into the joint and start to pool. It is at this point you need to stop.
As solvent cement is a solvent, it works by melting the perspex together, henc why it is often called welding cement.
As to being "visible" when dry, because it melts the perspex it will make clear perspex slightly cloudy, but only where the solvent cement has been.
Between the joints you will not notice it as it is only between over lapping surfaces.
It truly is the most outstanding way to join perspex. :yepp:
Using a syringe to apply the solvent gives you excellent control over how much you apply, also heaps less mess to clean up.
Have a look at this, a XS member, Rise, gave me the link to voigts work log, his guide will help make sence of it all.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=225441&page=2
Try looking at the place you bought your perspex, they should either have it in stock or know where to get it.
I think you can also buy it online from the link I gave you, not sure but
Have fun mate.:up:
Seems I've missed a lot.
What are you going to use to actually mount the pumps etc to the plexi? Is it going to look like they are bolted to the "air?"
Thats a good point Wezly.
Xion, if you used Petra'sTech "Gel-Stuff" Vibration Absorption Block, http://www.petrastechshop.com/pegviabbl.html
As its clear, it wouldn't looks to bad at all, however, if you cut it up and put a strip between the shelf/floor and L bracket.
That would also work out well and would be out of sight.
Not sure which model DDC pumps you have bought Xion.
But the newer DDC 3.25s (Koolance) don't have side brackets, instead they have two bolts that bolt into the pump from underneath the pumps base, nice and out of sight.
Fantastic work so far my friend!...
You definitely got my vote for an MDPC title through sheer ingenuity. Zero G Chamber Brilliant. Would be even better if you managed to get everything inside the case to look like its floating. But i don't want to start pumping new ideas into your mind. Else you might never get to finish your rig. Ahhaha.. :D
Merry Christmas, everyone! Yes, I'm here on the computer at 12:23 am my time, and it's Christmas Day. You know that you're hardcore when you're checking your project log on the day of Christmas. :D
Thanks for the explanation on the solvent cement, kg. I couldn't find the place in voigts work log that you were talking about, though.
I bought the perspex at Home Depot, so I'm afraid I'm out of luck on that one since they didn't have the solvent cement. Guess I'll purchase it online.
[/QUOTE]
I was just planning to mount them onto a thin foam pad with black screws. Since the pump is also black, they should blend in with the pump. There are brackets that stick out of the base of the pump that you screw down into.
Thanks, kg. Interesting idea about using the gel packs to hide the mounting brackets. I'm afraid that I can't use them underneath the pumps because I don't have clearance. The windows sit at a certain height, and the shelf mounting holes have already been drilled into the Zero-G chamber. So I only have about 1/8" of room to work with or otherwise the res tops will not line up properly with the windows.
Leave it to me to pick such a complex design. :)
LOL - that's right. Don't be feeding me any more ideas, or this thing may never be finished. :eek:
I do have a nice effect that will be on the inside, though, to give the illusion that you're looking off into space. That'll be revealed in the near future. ;)
Thanks!
Very interesting designs. I have looked at your build log a number of times but for some reason haven't posted.
The stuff I always use is tap acrylic cement from tapplastics: http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/cate...43701475342997 .
Have another look at the Voigts work link, might help you understand a bit more.
I called it a guide, it's more a blow-by-blow account of how he made his res
and how he used the solvent cement, I liked it, I think he is a talented man.
It starts half way down post#27
To bad about the Gel-Stuff, I sure you will find something else that works.
Hey bud, looking good. I hope you had a good holiday. :)
very good your work, hope to see finished