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hi guys, i just need to make sure of something. i got a new pb5 deluxe with no wifi but i can still use the 507 bios that is in wifi folder on asus ftp right? i am quite a noob as this is my first rig that i put together in my life. thanks for your help.
http://forums.offtopic.com/images/smilies/kekekegay.gif....Quote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
Tbh, I'm not so sure about that. The only thing I can say is I'd recommend getting the correct BIOS for the P5B-D. If you get the P5B-D Wi/Fi AP BIOS then you may get some instability down the road!Quote:
Originally Posted by hadron
:woot: Don't be silly moonraker. Of course you can use that bios. Both motherboards are identical (except for the addon WiFi card).Quote:
Originally Posted by hadron
Don't be silly Moonraker?Quote:
Originally Posted by UseAname
I never said "YOU CANNOT USE IT". I just said he MAY get some instability down the road. maybe 99% says he won't, but you can never be sure.
My answer was quite crap, so he couldn't take anything. But I never said anything wrong.
Ok, I think I have it on IDE when I did the F6 Floppy repair, I'll try it again with BIOS set to RAID. Thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by sluzbenik
well since there are no bios files in p5b-d folder only in p5b-d wifi i guess i can only use those so i'll try those and see what happens. thanks a lot for the help guys.Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonraker™
I'm with Moonraker. If it's not there, it's not official. Having said that, if you go to Asus' web site and look up the P5B-Deluxe non w-fi, 0614 is listed as the current BIOS. I've worked in this business too long to assume anything will work without checking first.
Ok, just an update on my RAID problem. I did a Window repair with the F6 floppy and with the controller set to RAID in BIOS and the system have came back up fine. Started OCing with the FSB at 400 and the E6300 is running at 2.8GHz. Been running Orthos with both cpu loaded at 100% for 2 hours now and it's been fine. Thank you all for your help. :toast:
Where are you guys looking?
on Asus site, they have the bios under both folders... Wi-Fi and non wifi...
and guess what.... same darn bios....
As someone said, same bios for Deluxe and deluxe wifi
I really don't wanna sound like a complete :banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::b anana:, but guys, it's the same freaking motherboard :rolleyes: :p:
You sure? I hear one was made on Jupiter by the "Callon 5" group.
Acutally.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Moonrakerâ„¢
the NON wifi deluxe i got from fry's was made in CHINA and the the WIFI one i got from a different shop was made in Taiwan......
but both the same mobo :)
My non-wifi deluxe is also made in China ;) It doesn't really matter where it's made though, imo. Runs at 500 with 1.45V on the NB. I wonder how high it can go (I doubt my memory can keep up though). I'll try it later and report back.Quote:
Originally Posted by n91htmare
edit: this is as far as I could get with 7x multiplier. Vdim 2,4; VNB:1.65. I bet the chipset could go even higher with a better cpu and ram.
http://www2.arnes.si/~bmajce3/storage/fsb.jpg
ATTENTION
Well, there I was trying to boot my rig with a 500fsb and got tired of trying and also didn't want to run the low-multi/high-fsb, so I decided to try and have EIST enabled and see how high I could go before it would hit the wall but.....
After doing some math I decided to go for a 333x9 and have everything set to auto, except for RAM and timings of course and here are the restults:
http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a291/Coppi/th_001.jpg_____http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a291/Coppi/th_002.jpg_____http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a291/Coppi/th_003.jpg
That's the highest I've tried to sar but.......
Here's the kick; I no longer have the boot for 1 second, pause for 2 then a full start issue happening anymore, now it boots normally and the odd part is that it did do the boot/reboot thing at 300fsb but at 333 it's gone.
I think I'm gonna stop here because that boot/reboot thing was annoying the living crap out of me.
I don't get the reboot prob up until 350mhz fsb with EIST disabled.
I now have a strange problem with my system. If I turn the system on, everything works fine and will stay operational forever, games and everything plays fine and the Temp on the CPU and GPU is both ok. But if I do a reboot durint that time. I get no video, the system will continue to booat as I can eventually hear the Window welcoem music and by all indication, the system is up and running but with no video. If I do a hold down the power button for 4 sec to turn it off, and start again, I still do not get video but the system will continue to boot to the window welcome music. I have to actually turn off the PSU on/off button and wait a minute and then turn the system back on and eveything a fine again. Any suggestion as to what can cause this. the system is OC'ed to 400 FSB with a E6300 @2.8GHz but I kept PCI-E at 100 and PCI at 33.3 and this is with a X1900GT card. I did the same setup on a P5B ealier and have not encounter this problem.
I also have a second problem with the Pioneer DVR-111D. When the system first boot up, the DVR is fine, I can put a disc in and it play a movie just fine but if I eject the movie and put in another disc, the drive becomes non-responisve and require a reboot. Anyone encounter this one?
exactly the same problem i faced.....Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiz33
i narrowed it down to setting my Vmch to greater than 1.45. Even if i set it to 1.55V, I dont get any video out from my gfx card. Strange? Or is it?
Does this happen only on reboot? My system works fine on a cold boot. My Vcore is only 1.3625V. and my Vmem is 2.1V with my OZC Gold which requires 2.0V to start with.Quote:
Originally Posted by kidoman
Hey everyone, so my brand new P5B Deluxe arrived today, which means I'll be building a new C2D rig (E6600, Scythe Mine) in a few days, and I have some random questions about the board. Any help you guys could give would be appreciated.
1) This thread on the P5W recommends taking the NB and SB coolers off, cleaning them and re-applying them with AS5. Does this void the warranty? And how necessary is it? I don't want to do it unless the board would be really hot/unstable otherwise.
2) That same thread recommends putting the board on the antistatic bag when working on it--and some posts later, someone else says that's actually dangerous because static builds up on the outside of the bag. So which is it? Is that safe or not? If not, what should I put the board on? (BTW, I always wear an antistatic wristband attached to the computer case when working on anything, so I'm not too worried about static.)
3) The "optional" fan that comes with the board, that mounts on the fins of the NB cooler by the I/O ports--the sticker says it's only if you're using passive/water cooling, which I'm not, but I don't really see the harm it would do, especially if it keeps those fins cooler. I'm using a Scythe Mine, blowing towards rear exhaust. Should I put the optional fan on anyway?
4) I've got 2x1GB Kingston DDR2-667--which slots should I put them in? I'm confused b/c the manual says the channels go A-A_B-B, but they're colored yellow-black_yellow-black. I thought same color usually meant same channel?
5) I don't have any use for the Wi-Fi at all, and it looks like the Wi-Fi module takes up 2 more USB headers. Can I take off the Wi-Fi module and hook up those USB headers to normal ports, or is that impossible?
6) My HD is a Seagate 7200.10 320GB SATA drive, and I'm not using RAID. I can't seem to find out for sure if Windows XP Setup will recognize that drive already, or if I need to make a driver disc from something and hit F6 at setup. I know you do for RAID setups, but I'm not doing RAID, so do I have to make a special disk from something?
7) I've heard different things about how I should set BIOS settings like VCore (Auto or not), C1E support, Max CPUID Value Limit, and Speedstep. I want to OC eventually, but I'm a total n00b and just want to get the rig working and stable first. How should I set those?
Quote:
Originally Posted by faceless007
1) in general they're ok. It does void the warranty to remove them, but then if you have to remove them you probably don't need the warranty anyway.
2) I put it on top of the box is came in.
3) I don't use it and don't see a need for it. I tried it and there was no difference.
4) same color = same channel. It'a A1, A2, B1, B2 so channel 1 is A1 and B1.
5) I tried removing it but could not get it off. I didn't want to risk breaking it off so I left it alone.
6) A single HDD regardless of brand, capacity, or interface needs no drivers. It's handled by the BIOS and OS.
7) If you're just running stock with no overclock you really don't have to adjust anything. If you're overclocking then the timings and voltages come into play. Basically more voltage helps keep system components stable because at high speeds they sometimes need more power. The memory timings are important when you're overclocking because some memory doesn't like certain settings when run above the stock speeds. When you're ready to try overclocking there is a great deal of information available in this forum for this board. You can take some of the basic info and get yourself a pretty good stable overclock. When you try to go past 400Mhz FSB and higher than about 3.4Ghz it gets a little harder to pinpoint the exact setting for perfect stability. It's alot of trial and error.
1) yes, but only if they check
2) use a piece of wood.
3) the fan would be ok as long as it is going with airflow not against it.
4) yes same color is same channel so start with slot closest to cpu, and also the the 3rd slot for dual channel.
5) if it comes off easily, you could probably use those as usb headers. Not sure.
6) it wouldnt hurt to load the Ahci/raid drivers.
7) surf around here more and use the search option.
had the same problem when i did some serious ocerclocking (fsb ~500) and after lowering the fsb it still trickied me. but randomly i got it to work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Wiz33
does it do that trick everytime you restart or randomly?
Unless you run in IDE emulation mode (and thus losing most advantages of SATA), you do need drivers to install Windows. ACHI is what you want for true SATA.
Everytime and I have to turn off the PSU then back on then poweron for it to work again.Quote:
Originally Posted by heikis