Removing the A64 IHS

acetone is the active ingredient in nail polish remover; I would suggest he meant isopropyl alcohol as vodka is not something to waste on a CPU :)

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Originally Posted by douirc

PoL - the basic principal is to relieve the HS weight off the core. you could put your HS directly onto the core, but you risk crushing it. all i simply did was take the foam that came in the packaging with my HSF, cut it into 4 strips and lay the strips around the core. if i rest the HS on top of the foam shim, the HS and core don't make contact. this is a good thing, because when you start to tighten down the HS, the foam will support the weight and act as a buffer. all you need to do then is tighten just enough so the HS and core make contact. you'll know when they make contact if you take measurements off the bolt (or some point of reference) with the HS resting directly on the core. A perfect example of this is AMD's Barton chips. they create a shim using rubber pads on the four corners of the PCB. I'm simply trying to recreate this with stuff lying around the house.

i hope that helps. i don't think i can be any more descriptive. trial by error is always a good method of learning too, so give it a shot!

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Thanks man. It really helped, I get what you mean now.
OK, so a good point would be tighten down the HS and then take it out to check if the contact was perfect, right?
And what about an evaporator? Can I use this foam method?

thanks!

"oh yeah, i'm out there, and I'm LOVING IT!!"

feels good to be naked...2950 prime and folding stable after combined 12 hours at only 38C load!!! next comes 3.0GHz+ :D

Well looks like I was one of the unlucky ones because I just removed my IHS and I have lost speed. Not sure what is up with that but my temps are down 2c which good but I dont truely understand how I would lose mhz. Oh well guess I should throw it back on and see if I can get my mhz back up. I will give it a set in period 1st tho just to make sure. Do yall remove the black ring once the IHS is removed ? I had to tighten down pretty hard to get contact. I think its a good thing to have it there to keep me from crushing my core so I will just leave it for now. :stick:

I've been thinking about doing this to my Newcie 3000+. Do you think I would need a shim with my XP-90 (Regular)?

I really don't wanna stick something flammable (ex Cardboard) or meltable (ex foam) next to my core---as newcie's run REALLY WARM. Arent the newcastle cores VERY large anyway?

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Originally Posted by NickS

Arent the newcastle cores VERY large anyway?

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Pretty much just because the 130nm. But not too much. :)

I use a 2 part epoxy putty stick.

http://www.cheyennesales.com/catalog/behputtystick.htm

http://webapp1.drummondamerican.com/...temNum=DN04590

http://www.homedepot.com/prel80/HDUS...glm.0&MID=9876

I use a brand called nu-doh. You cut off a piece of the putty stick, then knead it into a ball to mix the 2 parts.

Put 4 small balls on the corners of your a64 and squash them down to the required height with your heatsink.

No mess.

Carboard isn't flamable at the temps a mobo or cpu works on. By the time that carboard lights on fire your board woould have fried.

Lith1um has a great idea, but I've never been that patient personally, there's lots of stuff out there and lots of stuff in this thread to choose from.

Have fun

Well, the putty hardens completely in 5 minutes.

It is a solid, leaving no clean up. Your hands are barely even dirty.

All you do is take a knife, cut off a 3/4 inch piece of the stick. Knead it for 10-15 seconds, and use it before it hardens.

You could make a squished ball on each corner, or roll a thing string out on your desk and shim the entire perimeter of the chip in a matter of seconds.

I know the product, I use it to seal leaks in water pipes temporarily and the like (works on gas tanks too). I think it's a great idea and hell I'm going to try it, but most folks won't have that in their drawer at home ,mine is at the cottage :) and I don't have the patience to wait till I buy more or bring back the stuff I already have is all I meant. Thanks for the tip truly- it's going in the mod book for sure!

anyone try on a sempron 3100 paris core? im thinking of trying it..1.8 mhz is stock im running 2430.mhz overclocked idles at 40-42 c and loads at in between 48-50 c chip will go to 2502.mhz but will idle at like 50 c in heat of summer was 98 c outside today and i have no AC so i lowered the back to 2430.mhz and backed off vcore back to 1.5 had to use 1.6 to acheive 2.5.mhz..PS im running a water setup a kingwin awc1

It's a core, and no matter what code. It'll go down in temps, what will probably mean more oc. ;)

Can't hurt to be honest, but I think you're temps are pretty good really all things considered.

Here are my 3000+:

http://membres.lycos.fr/niaboc79/Pho...20IHS%2001.jpg

http://membres.lycos.fr/niaboc79/Pho...20IHS%2002.jpg

http://membres.lycos.fr/niaboc79/Pho...20IHS%2003.jpg

With my last Venice 3000+ i've won 15° in full and 75Mhz in prime95, i'm at 2875Mhz now with watercooling (water at 35°)

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Originally Posted by niaboc79

i've won 15° in full

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WOW... :eek:
That's impressive... :)

i have a 3400NC, looking at better temps cos of the summer

would doing the IHS removal and using my current SLK948U be ok?

ive been wanting to do this for a long time, but never had the balz to do it.... till now.
with a 2x sided blade, it was CAKE!!

3500 Venice:

http://img333.echo.cx/img333/470/pict02572qg.jpg


its *really* easy...the blade is SOOO THIN, it literally slides under the IHS
(in the gap of the "glue" on the one side) and then its sorta like cutting
Tygon tube with a dull blade...sorta

you need to put some force behind it and try to keep the blade FLAT to the
CPU PCB (you *can* shave into it if your sloppy!)

i taped off the blade for my protection and to "mark" about how deep
i thought i should/could go...probly went too thin the first few cuts,
i ended up going around 3+ times

after that it lifted right off



im blow'n away just how thick this thing is!! (.094")

http://img333.echo.cx/img333/5446/pict02595gs.jpg

you did this to your FX55? no wonder you were hesitant. is that a SD chip? nice oc! how's going naked treated you? been able to increase the OC?

nope, its a Venice (3500) and this was the 1st time i ever did this...

HERE is the link to my thread over on OC :fact:

seems to have dropped my temps 4C...and got me to 3GHz :hrhr:

First of all I wanna thank the quality info posted in this thread that helped in my IHS removal :toast:

Now, just a few thoughts about my experience (winchester + XP120 + DFI NF4)

1. I've cut through the rubber with a double edged razorblade without issues. My blade was similar to the one posted by Sai

http://www.seilnacht.com/Lexikon/rasier.JPG

It's safe to put the blade inside until the letters "dreifach..." disappear. It's not necessary to go any deeper and the blase will be far away from those small things around the corner.

2. Unlike many have stated, there was no need to sand off the socket near the lever, since the core was in a higher position. :)

3. It's necessary to sand off the base of the XP120 mounting bracket by the height of the IHS (or a bit less if you want to decrease the pressure on the core). First because if you don't do it, the heatsink will touch in the bracket and there is not enough contact with the core. Second, to readjust the pressure on the core, which decreases because the core will be on a lower position (although you may not want to have so may pressure as originally)

4. It was necessary to bend (not much) a heatpipe (the leftmost when seeing the heatsink with the heatpipes in the bottom) because it touched in a mosfet's heatsink and prevented a good contact with the core.

5. It is highly advisable to unscrew the bolts that fix the springs to the heatsink. In this way is possible to fix the springs with the heatsink base almost in its final position, on top of the core. Later you can screw the bolts again. See the pics posted by Ubermann here: http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...930#post864930

Even though, I cracked a corner of my core, but it's running ok

6. I've not tested thoroughly, but atm I've gained 50~60Mhz on both Prime stable clocks and Superpi32M stable clocks (the later about 60mhz higher than the former). My temps went down by at least 6C (with fresh AS5)

Interesting, now do you think this is worth risking my +3200 lbble 0515 apaw? :D In my quest to get to 3ghz on air, 50% overclock :D I'm still at 1.55 volts but temps scare me.

Only you can answer to this question....is it your money after all :)

It will definately helps......but modding and overclocking is never 100% safe...

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Originally Posted by 4rory

Interesting, now do you think this is worth risking my +3200 lbble 0515 apaw? :D In my quest to get to 3ghz on air, 50% overclock :D I'm still at 1.55 volts but temps scare me.

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Now that I've succeed, I'm glad that I had the guts to do it. In my modest opinion, if you follow carefully the information and tips given in this thread, the IHS removal is not difficult or (too) risky. The problem is to mount huge heatspreaders on top of small naked core.

Honestly, I decided to remove the IHS because I'm planning to buy a X2 until the end of the year (in the US since they are much cheaper than in Portugal). If this went wrong, the only bad thing was to anticipate the X2 purchase and pay more for it.

Also, the fact that my winchester is a bad overclocker would make its replacement easy. Almost any cheap 3000 Venice can do more than 2650.

To sum up, if I had a cpu doing near 3ghz on air, definitely I would not do it, unless I was getting rid of it.

I don't think it's a question of money I could easily buy another one, but I highly doubt it would do as good, Meh I don't think 50mhz is worth the risk, i'll pass for now.

Exactly. Money is never the question, or else the answer would be pretty simple: DON'T do it.

The question is whether it is easy to replace the lost cpu if something goes wrong. In my case it would be near impossible (from what I've seen) to get a venice worse than this.