POJO....refer back to GTJ's post, this thread, and try some of his memory
settings. PC3 memory is pretty finicky. See post 397 for link to GTJ's stuff.
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POJO....refer back to GTJ's post, this thread, and try some of his memory
settings. PC3 memory is pretty finicky. See post 397 for link to GTJ's stuff.
My computer has trouble at default settings, in order to make it work properly I have to up the memory voltage to at least 1.6v.
Thanks sir!Quote:
Originally Posted by gtj
BSOD installing Windows? Its almost certainly your memory. Furthermore what you are describing looks just like the two reviews by "stag" on the following link:Quote:
Originally Posted by pojo
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820220278
That is your exact model RAM, and the exact same problem as you; yes?
Man alive, now I am worried sick - I still haven't gotten around to building my system, but all the parts are here. And yes, I bought the same RAM as you.
QUESTION TO ANYONE:
Life happens, and so I have not been able to take the time to build my rig. I already bought my parts from Newegg, but it has been almost three weeks since they were delivered. If I run into the same problem with my Patriot RAM, do I have any recourse through Newegg? Any advice please?
Quote:
Originally Posted by pojo
Bump the memory up to 1.8V and see how it goes. I have the same memory and I think it needs little boost.
(edit) nevermind. Tweem gti and Tom's Hardware I am starting to understand this DD3 stuff better.
Don't get hung up on SPD. No DDR3 memory manufacturer has got their SPDs correct for other than default settings. Remember, the only thing SPD does is set the default timings.
pojo: Because you have a q6600 the board is going to default to it's FSB which is 1066. Don't make any changes from the defaults except voltage. If you can't get that stable then there's another problem. Make sure you're running Memtest86+ v1.70 and run test 7 specifically. It's the only test that even comes close to simulating the stress that windows puts on memory.
gti,Quote:
Originally Posted by gtj
Thanks for adding some clarity.
Can you take a sec and read the two postings by "stag" here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16820220278
Doesn't it sound like he is implying the new RAM Newegg sent him as a return DID get recognized as SPD 1333 MHz?
And yet, as you and Randy seem to suggest, SPD is not a big deal - Tom's Hardware would agree. Note in the following review the same Patriot RAM sent to Tom's hardware did not have a 1333 MHz SPD and yet perfermed reasonably well and surely in excess of 1066MHz. See following link (long DDR3 shoot out review.)
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/ddr3-1...-29939-13.html
So, regardless if the Newegg guy got some special new Patriot RAM that has an SPD 1333 MHz, or just got some of the genuine stuff like Randy2 and Tom's Hardware - basically there is no way to know if our Patriot sticks are 1333 MHz freindly until we try them out? Is that the crux of what I am learning here?
It's possible that the replacement modules he got just happened to have updated SPD entries. Just like the DX38BT motherboards shipped today have the updated BIOS instead of the original. Of course it's also possible that he did get mislabeled sticks. It does happen.
Regardless, the 2 things to compare are the descriptions provided by the manufacturer and the ACTUAL performance. So if you purchased DDR3-1333 7-7-7-20, 1.7v and you can actually run that config (or better), then you are good to go. Ignore the utilities that don't report actual speeds.
The primary purpose of the SPD is to give motherboard BIOSes the best chance of booting successfully.
Thanks for your replies everyone. I since tested the memory with incremental voltage values at default settings, no success. I ran memtest test #7 for an hour and it passed all tests with no errors. Since my processor is a Q6600 with a FSB of 1066MHz, is that what is limiting my memory speed to 1066MHz ?
Another person had the very same problem as me except they were using OCZ reaper-x memory http://www.ocztechnologyforum.com/fo...ad.php?t=33843
They resolved the issue by increasing voltage to the memory.
Anybody had any luck running this mobo on that OCZ Reaper-X memory (in link above)? How about the OCZ Platinum DDR3 1333MHz memory ? I am looking at these as possible alternatives to just returning the current memory for a replacement (bad idea??)
Any suggestions are appreciated !
This sounds like Memory is working with too low voltage. Increase vMem to 1.8VQuote:
Originally Posted by pojo
These Red 1066MHz G.skills rocks. I was able to ran these 1.6GHz @ 2.2V :DQuote:
Originally Posted by pojo
yes. you are currently running at a 1:2 ratio and you can't go higher than that. the only way to get your memory to run faster than 1066 is to overclock your CPU and keep that 1:2 ratio.Quote:
Originally Posted by pojo
with g.skill 1333 ddr3, E8400 and Bonetrail. Can I hit 4.0ghz? any comments or suggestions would be appreciated.
I know you can hit 4.0 and above with the E8400 but not sure if that can be done with the memory and the motherboard.
With that mobo and those mem it's more about the user than HW :rolleyes:Quote:
Originally Posted by sizzla1
Last page pojo said when he upped the settings on his RAM the system wouldnt even boot (post?) and he had to use the jumper to get the settings back to normal.
My understanding is the BIOS jumper has three settings, normal, password wipe, and removing the jumper to flash a recovery BIOS.
I'm familiar with Asus and MSI, but with these Intel boards, what methodology is used to reset the CMOS settings with the jumper?
Steveo,Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Steveo
On the dx38bt, there is a three pin jumper with a two pin plug => two possible positions for this : 1. Normal running of mobo 2. Diagnostic.
When you set this jumper into diagnostic, it will automatically go into CMOS settings and you can then make the necessary adjustments. Then you put the plug back into the normal running mode.
...and removing the jumper altogether cause the motherboard to try and boot from removable drive and reload the BIOS.
Pojo: Sounds like we have to take a step back. What did you set the RAID controller mode to when you installed XP? Native/Legacy, RAID/AHCI/IDE? Did you use the F6 diskette? Also try 1 stick of memory at a time.
If you pass test 7 then you should at least be able to boot successfully iinto XP. It may not be totally stable after that but you should at least get that far.
@ pojo and gti
Thanks guys. I wasn't aware password clear mode was diagnostic mode and that that would reset the CMOS settings to get into the BIOS. Much appreicated.
BTW, this forum and you guys are great!
And though it may seem so, I swear Im not a total idiot LOL. (Im actually pretty good with OS and software.) I just have been out of the computer hardware arena for a few years. Now happily learning from you guys as a born-again-newb!
welcome me to the club. my new Bone Trail just arrived today. i'm just waiting for NCIX to move their slow asses and get my new DDR3 to me so i can get this bad boy going.
my question is regarding the onboard audio. i have a SoundBlaster Audigy 2ZS that i've been using for a couple years. i've heard good things about the onboard audio on this board and was wondering if anyone here would actually recommend i use the onboard over my Audigy. i figure it's not likely, but i'm open to opinions.
Vista or XP?Quote:
Originally Posted by xMrBunglex
Aside from my CPU, the important hardware I have is very similar to Randy2s rig. I noticed he is running a 1200W PSU.
Quick question:
Will I be ok with this PSU?
http://www.coolermaster.com/products...ate=173&id=190
Quote:
Originally Posted by xMrBunglex
Depends on what you're listening to and how you're hooking the output up. I use the onboard audio because I use the optical out to a AV receiver. Sounds perfect.
The link doesn't work but if it's the 850, you'll be just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Steveo
I kind of fell in to this 1200W upgrade, but I used an 850W SS Strider before, and it was more than enough.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Steveo