i'll receive a new board from a supplier tomorow...maybe a new rev...better with my ballistix (The only reason i'm getting an other Asus is the passive cooling and lower pwmic...)Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinnacle
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i'll receive a new board from a supplier tomorow...maybe a new rev...better with my ballistix (The only reason i'm getting an other Asus is the passive cooling and lower pwmic...)Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinnacle
3rd board today and its a 1.01 and not the 1.01g I had last :( Boooooooooo....
Does anyone know if most of the bugs are cured with the 1.01g? Mine just ran too hot and I pulled the cooling system (got pix!) and hosed the board :mad:
Cheers
I've applied for my RMA. I told them I was using a venice 3200(same multi, same FSB, just in case they hate oppies) and that the dividers were broken and it didn't boot half the time(both true). Have other people found they'll replace the units on these grounds? Lastly, when I get a replacement(getting one one way or the other) should I give it a go to see if it's improved from my current one, or just sell it straight away?
I just flashed to bios 1205 and they added 2 more options to the bios
Clock skew A
and
Clock skew B
All we had with the 1103 bios was Clock skew.
Should be no problem and the later question is up to you ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by specofdust
damn...48c idle stock vcore...this board sux...:(
Its not your mobo's fault that ur cpu idles high. The sensors might be reading it off, but would you rather have it read high or low like a DFI?
I ordered one (hoping to receive it tomorrow) but having seconds toughts now. With Asus M2N32-SLI Deluxe is on sale and everything that board will sure see some serious discount from retailers who want to get rid of their stocks.
edit: I got the board today. What a stupidly designed board it is! They put all the bells and whistles but, the board won't let you use all of them simultaneously. For example, If I wanna use my second card for sli (of course I wanna use my second video card!), I can't plug front panel usb cords because the vga cooler blocking them off. Internal sound cards are bound to be toasted between two video cards.
And this board runs hot!!! 45CCPU 51C System on IDLE!!!...OPEN CASE...STOCK VOLTAGE. And I'm running the bare minimums, didn't even installed the sound card and the secondary Vcard yet. How come this is an overclocker friendly board? You gotta be living in north pole to overclock this buring SOB! It better be giving me at least 15fps difference on Oblivion or else.
Any news on the new bios? Worth trying?
Quote:
Originally Posted by pfgp
Bump
Its odd but I do not have the sort of problems that you guys have. I used Tony's ram tweaking guide and made some slight adj as I go along. No warm boot issues whatsoever. In fact, this is a pretty solid board. For people will warm boot issues, you might want to give Tony's guide a try.
Then please post a link.Quote:
Originally Posted by situman
Can anyone post a pic of the vdimm=3,3V rail mod?? Thanks in advance!
I have an A8N32 and an XP-90. When mounted, should the XP-90 be hanging over the memory slots on the A8N32 or should it be the other way with the heatsink hanging over towards the left side of the board where you plug in your keyboard, etc.
well b4 I went to water cooling I used a XP90 and it fitts both was and works fine both ways - one way it keeps the mem cool and the other it helps keeps the mobo cooler by blowing over the passive cooling radiator- its your callQuote:
Originally Posted by Nocturnal
or just fit the extra fan on the passive cooling radiator and have the XP-90 blowing on the mem as well
I have problem with my A8N32-SLI DX. When I use MemTest86 version 1.65 I not see my memory freq. and memory letence:-( Where is problem?
Anybody have same problem?
hey guys er this might b a dumb question but I just got this board and i'm a bit clueless. Well anyway does it matter if i plug my ram in dual channel using the black slots instead of the blue?
I had a better oc with the blue. Is your hs in the way?
Hi Folks!
I asked in the forums this, But it seems this is the Official thread for the A8N32-SLI-DeluXe, well, hope you can answer all of my questions, I have a Manchester 3800-X2 at 2600, prime stable at 1.3275 on bios, but PC probe on windows show me 1.36, It doesnt matter that, but the thing is:
1.- when idle, the Vcore goes up to 1.39, Why is That?
2.- Why Sandra Show my cpu like its supposed to work between 1.45-1.55 Vcore and 1.8-2.8 Ghz, can I overclock that much and be safe at 1.45 on air?
3.- thank you very much.-
http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/5655/image14yt.jpg
Max.-
Well my hs can still fit but i'd get better airflow if i could set the ram back a bit.
I guess i'll just stick with the blue slots.
TheMiracle: see your BIOS-you can enabled OVERVOLTAGE CPU (+200mV)
or-try new BIOS
Has anyone ran Promise EX8350 controller on PCI-E x16 slots in this mobo (it won't fit the x4 slot, without bending the heatpipe)?
I'm having hell trying to make it work... first it didn't recognize the WD Raptors; when I updated the BIOS for both, it was worse - could not boot from anything if the controller is attached, regardless if it has any disks on it!
Reverting back to earlier BIOSes didn't help :( Now I can't boot even (with early BIOSes at least it booted properly...)
BTW, what is IHS, and what are pros/cons of removing it? (yes I tried google, but it seems I am not searhing well enough, as I found nothing ;-)
I have an ex8350 but have not tried it in the a8n32. It should work fine. I read somewhere that a person took the heatpipe assembly off and installed aftermarket hsf's, then used the 8350 in the x4 slot. Just give it a try in the x16 slot; if it doesn't work, it won't hurt anything.
If you're into getting the absolute maximum overclock out of your system with lowest possible temp, and voiding the warranty on the cpu, you can remove the ihs. It's the heat spreader on the top of the cpu. Dubious benefits at best, maybe 2 or 3 degrees c lower. Care must be taken when attempting this, as it exposes the cpu to damage if not properly done, and installing certain heatsinks can break the cpu carrier if the hsf is tightened down too much.
If you're using an ex8350, I would assume you're not into extremely high overclocks and possible instability. That's a card designed for high capacity arrays used mostly in business applications. That said, it's a great performer compared to many other raid controllers, and priced very competitively. I use mine in an Asus NCT-D server board with excellent results. Seems to outperform Areca's in x16 slots on Tyan S2895's consistently. I'd like to try it in one of the 2895's, but hate to tear down a perfectly good working system just to compare performance. And the idea of moving the 8 500G Seagates doesn't appeal to me either.
I'm quite into stability, but I will OC to whatever stock allows. For example, my PC-DL 2x2.4 OC to 3 top stability.
The reason I saked for IHS is I thought it stand for integrated heat sink (not spreader), and thought it is the heatsink that comes with fan - I found out from DFI street what it is, today, no I won't try it ;-)
As for the card, I don't want to void the warranty on the mobo, I was running it in the x16 PCI-E slot.
It seems Raptor 150s are not compatible with this card (the 74s work...).
C'est la vi :(
I read somewhere that the firmware on certain hard drives had to be updated to work with some raid controllers. Might give that a try.
Funny thing - the HDs do work with the mobo RAID - just not the external RAID controller (which is fairly new, as well).
Worth a shot, if there's any firmware update for WDs
No firmware updates on these HDs. The EX8350 is going for RMA, tried it in another board, and no POST even.
You might wanna get as much cooling into the passive cooling cuz mine runs really hot. Although my average mobo temp is like 38C temp on the heat pipe is about 50C.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nocturnal
I fixed my passive cooling a bit. I didn't realize i had the K8>NB going at like 1500. So I reduced the multiplier to 4 and the temps went down. I also ripped off the asus logos to get more air in the heat sinks.
I think most people who have high temps probably have their K8>NB going too high.
I have problem with my A8N32 SLI DX and my memory Corsair 2x1GB DDR500MHz. This memory are very unstable on my mobo. WHY? I Tried lot of setings a Tried 2,7-2,85V (memory are very hot:-(
Have anybody same memory and mobo? I need your BIOS screen or screen A64 tweaker program.
THX
Your not the only one, I have issues with my Mushkin ddr500, the board is just not a great board, its very picky.Quote:
Originally Posted by Neller
The board looks really good
Yea I have major problems tweaking my ram too. But that's probably cuz I'm not quite sure wut I'm doing.
But, what I do now? Can new BIOS helps me? or I must buy other memory?Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinnacle
I also had problems with Mushkin Redline UTT.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pinnacle
By the way, I've noticed a cpu temp decrease with bios 1205. I had around 39-40ºC idle at 2.2GHz 1.25V, now 35ºC at 2.6GHz 1.325V :)
Would be nice if that's the case, however I had memtest failures on anything above 1109 BIOS, regardless of the memory timings, so please do run memtest, and let us know if it's just my bad luck or a general BIOS 1205 problem.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsl
I had errors at Memtest's test #6, but i can run Memtest for Windows flawlessly.
Exactly. 1205 is very complicated and flawed BIOS release - head over to ASUS forum, you'll see all known problems.
BTW, temp decreases are usually attributed due to Cool n' Quiet being Enabled by default in 1205 as opposed to earlier releases.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsl
Yeah, I've considered all those issues reported on Asus forum before flashing to 1205. With Silicon Sata Controller disabled, I have no major problems with this bios so far, except AiBooster reading some crazy clocks often (showing 3150 or 2042MHz when real clock is 2600MHz).
Btw, I'm not sure but I think C'n'Q was disabled by default. Guess the temp decrease is something about sensor calibration..
No need to overvolt high density modules try lower mem volts and differents tref if wanna keep em stable at speed.
Quite interesting, AIBooster is part of CnQ ;-)
Re-check it, mate, and don't let MemTest #6 fail, it's not as harmless as one thinks.
Quote:
Originally Posted by dsl
Hello all;
I am having a problem OC'ing my system I am hoping you can help with. I have the A8N32-SLI Deluxe, an X2 4400, 2x1GB of the Corsair 3500 LL PRO, an ATI All-In-Wonder x1800XL, Creative X-Fi music sound card, and a Silverstone Zeus 600 W PSU. Cooling is a Zalman 9500, My system runs Prime95 stable at default settings. I am using BIOS 1103.
I decided a good place to start was Cisco's guide, which suggests an initial OC of FSB 250, Multiplier x10, K8>NB 4x, Memclock 166, Memory Command rate 1T, all other memory settings auto, Cool 'n' Quiet disabled, PEG link disabled, SB>NB freq 200, SB>NB multiplier 5x, K8>NB and SB>NB linkwidth both 16x/16x, PCIe freq 100, all overvolts off, and the VCore at 1.35.
At these settings, the machine boots, and core 1 runs Prime95 stable for hours with CPU temps of 47-48. The problem is that I can't get core 0 stable at all. I have boosted the Vcore in increments to 1.435. Core 1 runs Prime95 stable for at least 6 hours, but Core 0 fails within seconds if I am testing both cores simultaneously (sp?). Interestingly, I ran Core 0 by itself, and it failed Prime95 after 2 hours. One observation...when I made the last adjustment in Vcore (from 1.4275 > 1.435), the Vcore as reported by AI booster and CPU-Z actually seemed to go DOWN. I was getting a reading of 1.42 from both. Also, my VCore seems to fluctuate a bit (according to CPU-Z) from 1.408 to 1.424 from moment to moment.
Here is my thinking. I am new to this, so bear with me if I say something stupid. Since Core 1 seems stable, the problems with core 0 cannot be attributed to any of the memory or bus settings. My initial impression was that Core 0 just needed a bit more VCore to function than Core 1, and it does run longer before failing with a higher VCore. I cannot fathom why Core 0 fails within seconds while I am testing both cores, but runs for 2 hours if I test it alone, unless there is a problem with power to the CPU.
Am I right in suspecting that either my PSU or the MB is bad? My understanding of these things is limited, but I do know that the MB takes care of distributing power to the CPU, right? My PSU should be more than adequate for my system, as far as I know. Or I just have a bad CPU for overclocking? Probably the best thing I could do as far as isolating the problem is to drop my CPU into a different MB and see if it works at 250 x 10, but I don't have one available.
Any help you guys could provide would be greatly appreciated.
Mark
For all those with memory tweaking problems... try the "black" set of DIMM slots.... I have Corsair DDR400 cl2 2GB Kit and had rough time getting it stable @266MHz 3.0-3-3-5-1T in the blue slots without a success... moved them to the black ones and voila - it's stable :)
@mhorgel: I think your PSU is up to the job. I suspect you have a bad clockin' CPU, unfortunately :(
@TodB: I will try those black slots, thanks for the tip :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by TodB
^^^Ditto
@mhorgel Yea I have the exact same problem with my core 0.
It MIGHT be because of the cpu but for some reason core 0 just seems TOO weak to be true. My core 1 overclocks very well and primes for hours while the other core fails in a few seconds. I try booting the vcore to 1.6v but it still is unstable. I haven't figured out what's wrong yet. I might get another cpu soon to test it on but that won't be for a few weeks.
Have you tried eneabling the overvolt option (+0.2v)? If not then set your vcore to 1.25 and then enable the vcore ovevolt to get 1.45v. For some reason the board will not go above 1.42 without the overvolt option enabled(mentioned elsewhere in this very thread).
You can then increase vcore in small increments (with overvolt enabled) to help stabalize core 0, I wouldn't personally go above 1.55 on air. Aslong as your cpu dosn't hit 60c+ on full load then you will be fine. It sounds as though core 0 is failing due to not enough vcore being supplied to it.
If that dosn't work then relax your timings to say 3-3-3-8 instead of the spec 2-3-2-6. Or even put it onto a 133 divider.
You want might to use the mem tweaking guide. Its memory related. THe link is couple of pages back.
That explains why my reported voltage from both AI booster and CPU-Z does not seem to increase when I increase VCore. I had forgotten that peculiarity of this board...Quote:
Originally Posted by Ic3man
I decreased the FSB to 245 and both cores seem stable at 1.42v. Temps are 52-53 C during torture testing. I have an Asetek WaterChill kit on order, though it will take me a while to set aside enough time to install it...looks like a weekend project, hafta strip the system, remove the mb, and do some minor case mods.
I will probably stay at 2.45 Ghz for a while, until the watercooling is in place, and I will try gently pushing the VCore after that.
About the memory divider, I was thinking of trying 183, as my memory is PC3500, which can go as fast as 216, and 245/200*183=224, so I was thinking it should work.
Thanks again to everyone who responded to my query!
Mark
The 3500LL memory can do 300 MHz even, but with loosened timings.
To everyone... Windows XP without SP2 Instalation CD brings ACPI error after the preparation of the disk for the instalation. Also USB mouses bring USB error in a file... Use an updated version of the CD... That erros happens with the last Bios available for this board...
Hey alfaunits what settings did u use to get the 3500ll to run at 300mhz?
Also does anyone have their max oc for the 3500ll without loosening the timings?
I'm getting a lot of warm boot issues. They seem to go away if i add vcore but why would I add vcore if my proc can handle lower vcore. Any1 else know something that can help?
I had the following speed/latencies:
2-3-2-5 215Mhz
2.5-3-2-5 245Mhz
(you can do 2-3-2-6 but Memtest would fail, CAS needs to be 2.5 for 245+)
2.5-3-3-6 260Mhz
3-4-4-7 does near 300Mhz (problem is the CPU at this point :D)
This is Auto VDimm, increasing VDimm voltage has no effect.
Above are Memtest stable (Memtest boot CD, all tests passed).
Max for SPD 2-3-2-6 forme was around 230 Mhz.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ineedaname
BTW, I was about to say I have high quality PSU, but then I noticed you have 600W ;-)
According to my UPS, my system uses a maximum of 270W (that's with 6 Raprots, DVD-RW, 6600gfx)
I'm having problems with my motherboard since I got a new one from my RMA after so many months :rolleyes:
Here are the problems I'm having:
1. Sometimes when I turn on the PC, nothing appears on the screen and the stock CPU fan it constantly spinning at full speed.
2. Sometimes the BIOS appears on the screen, whenever I saves my BIO's configuration (just disabling things and enabling RAID without any overclocking), the PC doesn't display anything after that.
3. Sometimes it'll say no boot device found (RAID 0 wasn't enabled at this point) or ctrl, alt, and del to restart. As number 2 says, when the screen does display with RAID 0 enabled, I managed to get it to the Windows recovery where it gave you some choices as I'm still using my partition from my previous RAID 0 setup, after I said I wanted Windows to boot normally, the screen decides to display nothing!
4. Whenever I clear the CMOS, it seems to boot when the jumper is in the clear CMOS position, is this normal? Continuing from there, I apply the BIO's settings and it does the same thing after that, blank screen!
Can anyone please provide me any solutions to my problems please? :(
I'm getting so annoyed with this motherboard and I wish my previous motherboard didn't develop any problems after usage as I thought it was fantastic!
Similar problems here :(
I didn't try booting with Jumper on CLear though - it shouldn't boot as per the Manual, but hey... it's not supposed to do some other stuff as well :(
I'm disappointed in ASUS.. or AMD, I'll know when I go dual Xeons agian..
Thx 4 the settings alfaunits i'll try em out tonight. These mem settings are so confusing...
@Cybertronic for problem number 1 is this when you restart or from a cold boot? and what bios revision do you have?
ineedaname, it was from both restarts and cold boots :(
I've managed to fix the problems now as when I managed to get the PC to boot properly after many attempts, I looked at the hardware monitor in the BIOS which showed my CPU voltage, 5V and 12V overvolting a lot. After I turned them down it boots successfully everytime now :)
Then I came across another problem which was my Windows XP installation as just before the formatting stage, it was always BSOD'ing :confused:. I decided to take one of my RAM sticks out (Crucial Ballistix's 2GB) which as a result seems to be the culprit!
I'll have to test the RAM sticks for stability now and I have the feeling that they're dying now just like most of the owners suffered from :(
Hi, I'm a novice overclocker (this is my first attempt) looking to squeeze the most out of my system. Does anyone know any ways i could increase performance on my CPU/ram?
My current System
A8N32-SLI Deluxe (of course :)) Great board btw, solid layout and was very simple for my first full PC build.
Athlon 64 3700+ San Diego 2.2Ghz (overclocked to 2860Mhz)
2x 1GB Kingston PC3200 valueram (running at 168.2mhz with timings 3-3-3-8 1T)
Creative x-fi sound card
BFG tech 7800GT OC (further overclocked to 510/1200)
Antec Truepower 2.0 550W
My current vcore in the BIOS screen is 1.450, but CPU-Z reads my voltage as between 1.472V and 1.520V(constantly switches to a few values between there). If i increase the FSB and decrease multiplier, the computer still runs correctly so im thinking either not enough voltage is going in or my cooling is insufficient. My current temps are around 41-42 depending on load placed on processor with stock cooling. I'm not sure how much voltage a processor can handle so i am reluctant to increase it. From the looks of other systems on the forums, it appears that the processor i use can handle much more voltage then it currently is using. Also, i have a giant Zalman HSF i can install in place of stock cooling, but i would rather not do that unless absolutely necessary to further overclock.
I have reached the BIOS screen at 3003mhz, however the computer would fail to reboot itself after editing/checking temperatures and then i would have to shut down and restart, only to find that the computer could not get into windows.
You ought to read the general overclocking guides, that's as much as you can do.
Do something about that RAM though, those latencies suck HARD for PC3200 memory.
@alfaunits I tried out the settings kinda got it to work now thanks.
Well anyway I was wondering if someone could help me answer a question. I got the regular deluxe board but I want to know if i could possibly add in the wifi antenna into this mobo or is that only for those premium boards?
You can, but it is not worth it IMO - SO hard to configure...
Quote:
Originally Posted by ineedaname
BTW: considering you have "Thermaltake Armor (4x120mm 104CFM Panaflo)" what case do you use? I have absolutely no chance of fitting even 2x 12cm fans in my Big Tower.
name, do you have your new armor side panel with the big 25cm fan yet? just got mine yesterday, approx 5c temp drops on everything. pretty much noiseless.
/me can't imagine the fan noise ya got goin in there. 6 tt a1926's & a slow 92 and 80 aren't bad tho.
alfa, it's the tt armor case:
http://www.thermaltakeusa.com/produc...rmor_index.asp
Thanks, those look great. I'm already looking for one locally.
the armor has its little issues like any other box, of course. the tyan 2895's 4th sata port is difficult to connect, had to find a cable with a very small end to squeeze it in there. the pc p&c 850 fits, had to remove the io strip and its bracket, then fit them back in after psu installation. that of course led to the 92mm top fan removal, but got an 80 up there with 2 corner screws thru the vent holes with no problem. the 90 and 120 in the back are good.
lots of ventilation in that box, but i think my next build will be a coolermaster 810 with the 2 120's in the back. front is about the same as the armor, lots of room for drive cages & fans. not quite as nice looking as the armor tho, if that's a consideration. sure wish some of these big towers had casters; the armor has minimal screw holes for em, not sure about the cm 810. shows feet in the pics on their site. put a few drives in these boxes and they get a bit cumbersome without wheels.
I'm eyeing one of those LPC (liquid cooling) armors, that ought to keep me happy for a few builds to come.
There are some HFPC (I think) cases, that are great for overclockers, and have, IMO, better cabling and awesome motherboard positioning (motherboard lies down on the "floor" of the case).
Those will be though to find :D (for me, not for US folks :D)
I've always been hesitant to add water to the mix. Lots of folks love it, would never go back. The way I take em apart all the time, tinkering constantly, probably wouldn't work well with that type of setup.
Do you mean htpc (home theater pc)? Silverstone has nice htpc cases, been using a black LC01 for quite some time. Airflow is of course limited, but that's not what those boxes are about; very low noise and nice looks make them a favorite of the htpc crowd. I know mine wouldn't work well in an oc situation though; with low noise fans it runs a bit warm at stock settings. "Only" an "old" 3.2 P4 socket 478 rig.
@ClintE Nah I heard that the 25cm fan doesn't blow a lot of air. I 'm thinking of just cutting a hole in my side panel and just putting a 120mm fan there. BTW what cpu cooler are u using?
Oh and I found that using the top fan doesn't really help cooling much.
Also is the WiFi really that hard to configure? Cuz I have some weird campus residence internet that locks onto my mac address so i need a way 2 bypass it.
ClintE, I don't know, I lost the link. They are awesome for OC folks who fiddle with processors and memory often - completely open access to the motherbard.
The water cooler in Armor LCS seems quite easy to set up, maybe it is just eyes...
I know I won't do as many mods with newer systems as I will with PC-DL (heh, hi from 2cpu BTW ;-) for fun.
I just can't figure what to do with 500 W of power, my system uses 200W (DX) and 270 (X2) at full loads (measured by UPS). ;-) (disks are in a separate dedicated power case)
name, I suppose the 25cm fan's 67cfm rating isn't much compared to your 120mm jet engines err fans. I put some delta 150cfm's in the front of my servers, but they're in the back room behind a few walls & doors, so I don't hear much out of them. with full load cpu temps well below 45c I'm ok with a very low-noise hum under the desk. not much into cutting up that plexi either, and after buying a good fan and the labor involved, the price of the panel was well worth it to me. I do like some folks' case mods though, lots of em are very creative and well done. I've never seen pics of anyone's Armor case mod; if you do it, let me know if ya post pics anywhere, would like to check it out.
been using ThermalRight SI-120's on most of my systems lately. can put a quiet fan on it and still get good performance. oh the armor has a tyan 2895 dual opty in it, i put the a8n32 in a Tt Matrix case. it doesn't seem to need any extra cooling such as a side fan; can always crank up the cpu and back fan if it gets too warm (got those 2 on pots cause they make a bit of noise at full voltage).
alfa, oh i know what you're talking about, one of the bench testing frames. yeah they are great for testing hardware.
you'd probably do well to have separate ups's on those 2 systems, unless ya got a single large one. several 1kva units around here, and recently got a network card for one of em so it'll signal any systems running to shut down when its battery gets low. just had to figure out which system pulls the most and connect it to that ups so it gets low before any of the other ones.
Yes, benches is a good word for it. I'm still looking into one of those Armor/Armor LCS though, toolless design makes it almost as easy.
What do you do for cable management, considering you have many SATA drives? (those SATA data cables are so hard to control without bending bad).
The UPS with all three boxes (Dual Xeon, Dual Core AMD and HD box) plus TFT are using only a bit over half of the UPS potential.
I think having older video card and only SATA drives lets me run two machines for what most consumers can't use for a single one.
I get some of my cables from here:
http://www.satacables.com
they have a nice selection of straight, right-, and left-angle types that work well depending on the situation.
other than those, just some plastic-coated wire ties to bundle the cables together and secure them to different parts of the chassis. my systems aren't picture-ready yet, but they're getting there. one of these days... yeah right, like that's ever gonna happen when all I've been doing the past few days is mess with this old notebook for a friend. oh well, keeps me out of trouble. learning something in the process.
SATA cables are problematic, IMO, because they are strong (power cables are twistable quite easy, if I twist a SATA cable too it can loose signal)
Yea that happened to me the other day on my other system and now it's a bit screwy...
I think i might have 2 format or something cuz its acting really weird.
ftp://dlsvr01.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/s...eluxe/1302.zip
I found this in Asus FTP site. Dont know if its a new beta bios or what...but seems to be a bios.
The strange thing is that, this time the zip file have two files instead of one.
1302.rom
A8N32-SLI-ASUS-Deluxe-1302.ROM
The second one seems to be the bios file, because the size ~ 1Mb, like older ones...
If someone test it, please post here ;)
the 1302 isn't posted on asus's website yet, I wonder if it fixes the problems alot of people had with 1205.
What problem btw??Quote:
Originally Posted by Dazog
Anyone running Opty 165 on this mobo? What's the furthest you can OC? 300x9 is quite stable, stock voltage, but I can't get anything over 300... (HT set to 3x, mem to 100)
OK. I have installed an Asetek WaterChill kit. Although many folks on the Watercooling boards here don't think kits are worth a darn, my temps have plummeted from 53 degrees during Prime 95 torture testing, down to 41-42 degrees, despite being a fan short because of a cracked blade. I am running the FSB at 245 MHz, memory divider at 166, VCore 1.425. My plan is to lower VCore to 1.25, enable the VCore overvolt, increase the FSB to 250 and see if she will tolerate it. I seem to have plenty of headroom with the VCore now that I'm on water, so I hope to squeeze 2.6 or 2.7 GHz at least out of my 4400+.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ic3man
Mark
mhorgel, X2 should do 2600 at "stock" volts (1.4v :-). I have exact same setup as you, on air (A8N32, 3500LL, X2 4400)
Try 11*240, instead of 10*260
I have opty 165 and mine does about 316 stable at 2.85ghz. I can't seem to get 2.9 100% stable without some crazy voltage. I think heat is the problem tho. I noticed the temps they give are off by 4-7C.
Try this out.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=103639
Hi. Can you tell me where you found this schematic? ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Marios
I know my 4400 should do 2.6 GHz at stock volts, but it won't. Couldn't get above 2450 at 1.42v. Currently running at 2.6 GHz (237x11) at 1.52v. My core 0 won't run Prime 95 for more than a few minutes on any lower voltage. The consensus is that I just have a not overclocking friendly chip. The good news is that it's running no more than 44 degrees under full load, 41 under a moderate load, 39 at idle. I think now I'll put the memory divider back to 200 from 166, and see if I can loosen the timings a bit.Quote:
Originally Posted by alfaunits
Mark
1.52v is kinda high for that baby, any other part of the motherboard overheating?
My 3500LL can do some great FSBs.. 2-3-2-5-7 'till 220, 2.5-3-2-5-7 'till 260 ^^ 3-3-2-5-7 (7 - cycle time, 1T all)for almost 300. No overvolts (and overvolts didn't help, strangely...).
I have a pair of these running on a PC-DL as well (which undervolts everything), and similar timings.
my 4800 is the same way, can't get much of an oc out of it at all. i figure if i can't get at least 15 or 20 percent oc, not worth it. everything is so stable and cool at stock speeds, runs 3dm06 and any game i throw at it in sli with no problems. even tried different memory in it, one set is ocz 3200 low latency, other is kingston hyperx 4000 with a bit higher latency. neither set seemed to do much good; must be that 4800 that just doesn't like the oc. it's fast enough as it is i suppose; just wanted to see what it could do when i started trying the oc, and at least it was a learning experience.
I think I want to push my Xeons still, since I don't use FPU (that I know of.......), it runs almost faster than the Opty :)
I think this motherboard doesn't have OC capability, not the X2's :( (seeing this thread, that's the opinion I get ;-)
i typically run 345x9 on my opty 165 for 3.0ghz on air. if i mess around with water cooling, i can get around 356htt x 9 but it isnt stable.Quote:
Originally Posted by alfaunits
what kind of voltage you running? what is your kb>nb at too? :cool:Quote:
Originally Posted by ST4
added :D
Would you post the settings you used (all the relevant ones)?
Also, which BIOS version?
Quote:
Originally Posted by ST4
OK, I give up... I got a better PSU, thinking it was the cause of OC failures (plus it would benefit placing SATA cables better ;-), put more fans...
Still can't get Opty 165 over 2.65G, while previous guy did 3G :(((((((((((((((((( Uffff
This Mobo S***S hard ;-)
Ok first of all, this mobo is not S***S. Its a solid board. Go to Bleedinedge forums and get the mem tweaking guide by OCZ and then adjust accordingly. All your boot issues stems from memory timings. Second of all, you cannot compare your cpu to another or even the same cpu between two users. Anyways I'm out.Quote:
Originally Posted by alfaunits
Well i dunno if its the board or not but a lot of people claim that their Core 0 fails a lot earlier than their core 1.
Memory is at 100 divider (1:2) during testing, timing very loosened just to take the memory out of the question fully. The reason I said it s***s is because I have found but one person on these forums who had good OC with this board. Is that enough? Stay out ^^ (j/k)
Quote:
Originally Posted by situman
Well, I'll be a monkey's uncle...
Here's the latest from me, after changing cooling:
A8N32, Opty 165 0610 DPMW, 3500LL, CM 500W PSU, ASUS 6600 )abs. NOTHING else is in the case, hard drives are in an eternal enclosure).
FSB: 340
Multi: 8.5x
HTT: 4x (YES 4x! for 1320 HTT)
VCore Overvolt: Yes, VCore: 1.2v (total 1.4v!)
Dual Prime stable until it overheats over 65*C ;-)
Wowzers..... I didn't have mem issues, I had overheating issues.... (yes, this board still s***s;-)
Keep ya all posted... as soon as I figure how to cool this thing...
This is top I got on A8N32 after replacing the cooling. I have used DiamonCool heatsink with Hyper6+ fans. I will post a pic of this modded cooler when I connect the camera.
Here are some screens of OC attached. 8.5x330, Overvolt of CPU and HTT enabled, VCore = 1.2v (1.4v with overvolt - stock volts, actually just more stable)
Memory can hit 280 as seen here, but I cannot boot with that freq. so I figured it is not safe and went back to 166 divider (255 speed) (275 works, but then I get smaller CPU speed)
Anything I try over 8.5x330, whatever voltage doesn't work :( (need even better cooling for some last MHz, it runs a few minutes DP at 2900 at 1.4v but overheats - 60*C)
yo alfauntis if you lower your HTT to 3x you can probably lower the temps a bit. no point having it at 4x. 3x already gives you 1020 which is good enough any higher doesn't really boost performance just heats up your mobo.
It is at 3 during testing, and I even disabled overvolt for HTT and SB - priming at 333x8.5 at 1.4v now.