[First Look] DFI 680i LT NF-680i LT SLI (56K Warning~~~)

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Originally Posted by SchiuZ

I wuold aslo like to know, if possibile, if there is some vDrop MOD (pencil) on this motherboard that you can do to fix the IDLE - FULL voltage difference ;).

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Not that I know of and I've been following this board since Christmas.

As for BIOS, the only way I know of to tell the difference between the 2C and 4C versions if if you can control your multi or not. The 2C gives multi control to non exteme processors in 521... the 4C to extreme processors. If you can control your multi, you have the right version for your CPU. AFAIK the 723 bios does not allow multi control on any processor. None of this matters if you are using your default multi though.

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Originally Posted by virtualrain

Great!... maybe DFI should ship a dual core chip with each board to help us recover from these f'd up errors. :rolleyes:

I had to RMA mine due to an 88 error that I could not recover from.

After overclocking my friends G0 to 3.6GHz on his EVGA A1 board in just a few hours (no fuss at all), I'm very unimpressed with my DFI board experience (it took a week of fussing to get it to the same clocks). :down:

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YApp, agree, my QX6700ES + this MB gave me a haard time as well
..1st "88 " ..then "TRAP ..." BSOD s during Prime - needs a lot of testing, but then , sudedenly everything snapped to place-
3,6 24/7 stable,m for the games I had to add 1 notch more VC/ or maybe the NB V should be upped a bit /

Funny thing is that I ve made 2 setups that were able to do this- 1 withlesse VCore and higher GTL and the 2nd one vice versa

http://i203.photobucket.com/albums/a...me3h3600NS.jpg

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Originally Posted by virtualrain

Not that I know of and I've been following this board since Christmas.

As for BIOS, the only way I know of to tell the difference between the 2C and 4C versions if if you can control your multi or not. The 2C gives multi control to non exteme processors in 521... the 4C to extreme processors. If you can control your multi, you have the right version for your CPU. AFAIK the 723 bios does not allow multi control on any processor. None of this matters if you are using your default multi though.

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Thanks a lot for answering. So for the vDrop mod there is nothing to do.

For the BIOS the problem is that I have an Extreme processor (QX6850) and a Q6600, so I have to switch between the two BIOSs to use one or the other CPU.
I have some problems with the 723 BIOS: for example the LTD Voltage and VTT Voltage in the voltage control menu have been replaced both with a new voice witch is HT Link. So now I have 2 HT link voices and no LTD Voltage or VTT Voltage. Is this normal?
I think that the best BIOS for overlclocking is still the 521, 4C or 2C depending on Extreme or non-x processor, rigth?

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Originally Posted by virtualrain

Not that I know of and I've been following this board since Christmas.

As for BIOS, the only way I know of to tell the difference between the 2C and 4C versions if if you can control your multi or not. The 2C gives multi control to non exteme processors in 521... the 4C to extreme processors. If you can control your multi, you have the right version for your CPU. AFAIK the 723 bios does not allow multi control on any processor. None of this matters if you are using your default multi though.

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Hi Virtualrain, I read your guide for this motherboard and I really liked it, thank you for sharing so good information and for making many links :).

I have an overclocking problem with the Q6600; if I use the 2CTST BIOS I'cant enter windows if I set 400Mhz FSB. I tried more the 40 and I say 40 different VTT - GTL settings, starting from VTT 1,60 200-115-95 and also settings like the one you suggested for 1600Mhz(VTT 1,60 195-195-95) and many more (also using lower values like VTT 1,40 and 170-95-85). I tried all the possibile settings I found and I also tried to make some new settings respecting the ruels for GTL values and also tring to do, as I said, something like your setting (with very close GTL1 and GTL2 settings). Nothing to do.

Then I tried the 4CTST BIOS (I also tried the last BIOS but I have many problems about VTT and LTD voltages, as I said befeore, so I am not using that BIOS) and I could enter Vista simply setting VTT 1,40 and 170-95-85. The problem is that I am not stable because the CPU Multi is fixed @ 9X (default).

So what I think (and I also opened a discussion in the DFI Club forums) is that the 2CTST BIOS is NOT good for Q6600 because it seems to be impossibile to enter in Windows with FSB400Mhz; and the 4CTST BIOS could be much better, because you can easly enter Windows, but it is difficult to find a Q6600 that can reach 3,6Ghz at voltages good for air or liquid cooling...

What do you think?

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Originally Posted by SchiuZ

Hi Virtualrain, I read your guide for this motherboard and I really liked it, thank you for sharing so good information and for making many links :).

I have an overclocking problem with the Q6600; if I use the 2CTST BIOS I'cant enter windows if I set 400Mhz FSB. I tried more the 40 and I say 40 different VTT - GTL settings, starting from VTT 1,60 200-115-95 and also settings like the one you suggested for 1600Mhz(VTT 1,60 195-195-95) and many more (also using lower values like VTT 1,40 and 170-95-85). I tried all the possibile settings I found and I also tried to make some new settings respecting the ruels for GTL values and also tring to do, as I said, something like your setting (with very close GTL1 and GTL2 settings). Nothing to do.

Then I tried the 4CTST BIOS (I also tried the last BIOS but I have many problems about VTT and LTD voltages, as I said befeore, so I am not using that BIOS) and I could enter Vista simply setting VTT 1,40 and 170-95-85. The problem is that I am not stable because the CPU Multi is fixed @ 9X (default).

So what I think (and I also opened a discussion in the DFI Club forums) is that the 2CTST BIOS is NOT good for Q6600 because it seems to be impossibile to enter in Windows with FSB400Mhz; and the 4CTST BIOS could be much better, because you can easly enter Windows, but it is difficult to find a Q6600 that can reach 3,6Ghz at voltages good for air or liquid cooling...

What do you think?

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Personally, I really think that DFI's BIOS support for this board it pathetic. Even the guru's over at the club forums don't seem to have much of a clue as to what the differences in any of the recent BIOS's are... and DFI released a beta BIOS not long ago that fried boards... clearly indicating their internal testing is also pathetic. It's a total blind shot as to what BIOS might work better for any given situation... there is absolutely little credible fact to work with other than the fact that most people with working overclocks are using the 521 in one flavor or another. :shrug:

AFAIK there are still folks with X6850's with no multi support. :shakes:

Sorry to sound a bit bitter, but I use to rag on ASUS for their terrible BIOS support, but now I find DFI in the same boat. :rolleyes:

Now back to your situation... what's the highest FSB you can run stable at x9? You may be just hitting a wall.

As you know I was able to run 400x9 on the 2CTST 521 bios so it could be just that your proc is not up to 400 FSB. Are you running Vcore at 1.6V and NB Volts at something similar? Keep in mind the droop on this board is insane so you need to overcompensate by similarly insane amounts.

Thanks for aswering. The problem is that with the BIOS 2CTST I can't even boot at 400Mhz FSB, as I told you, also if I set VTT 1,6v and 190 110 95 and other setting (also NB 1,6v etc). All the hardware has been tested also on a eVga motherboard (new revision) and this CPU is cabable of going at more then 450FSB on that motherboard.

If I use the BIOS 4CTST I have no problems to run @ 400Mhz FSB on this motherboard, I can also set NB 1,51v (1,36 read) and 1,40VTT 170-97-85 (1,36v HT Link read) and I can run a SuperPi 1M and some miutes of Orthos, the problem, as I told you, is that I have locked molti @ 9x, so I can't be stable at 3600Mhz, too high temp or non enough vCore.

This is a scrrenshot taken with the 4CTST BIOS, just to show that I am not cheating:

http://www.pctuner.info/up/results/_...ST521-PI1M.JPG

As you can see the motherboard is cabable to reach easly 400Mhz FSB with the 4CTST BIOS; the problem is that I can't use it because I need too high vCore (1,68 is impossibile to use for more than 1 minute).

So what I supposed I think it was right: the 2CTST BIOS is NOT good for Q6600, and if you use that BIOS the Q6600 will not go at high FSBs (not more than 360Mhz also using high VTT, NB and GTL settings).

I really can't understand this. Why DFI is not supporting the Q6600CPU?

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Originally Posted by virtualrain

Personally, I really think that DFI's BIOS support for this board it pathetic.

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AFAIK there are still folks with X6850's with no multi support. :shakes:

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They dont even try to help with beta bios for QX6850 users , i've been asking them on DFI forums for over 2 weeks now to help with at least a beta bios with full QX6850 support and nobody seems to care :down: 4CTST521 is too old and provides a very poor oveclock with that cpu and 723 has no open multi , thats after what - 2 months that cpu hit retail ? :bs: Oh well ... :(

I am very disappointed, I always tought that DFI was a serious motherboard brand but I have to think again about it...

I have a Q6600 CPU witch is a very diffused CPU and it is not supported (because of what I told you in the last posts) and a QX6850 G0 CPU that I would like to test but I read (and you are telling me) that that CPU is not fully compatible with this motherboard...

DFI, why you are NOT supporting this motherboard???

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Originally Posted by virtualrain

Personally, I really think that DFI's BIOS support for this board it pathetic. Even the guru's over at the club forums don't seem to have much of a clue as to what the differences in any of the recent BIOS's are... and DFI released a beta BIOS not long ago that fried boards... clearly indicating their internal testing is also pathetic. It's a total blind shot as to what BIOS might work better for any given situation... there is absolutely little credible fact to work with other than the fact that most people with working overclocks are using the 521 in one flavor or another. :shrug:

AFAIK there are still folks with X6850's with no multi support. :shakes:

Sorry to sound a bit bitter, but I use to rag on ASUS for their terrible BIOS support, but now I find DFI in the same boat. :rolleyes:

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After spending a bit longer with this board I have to agree with virtual shame on you DFI.
USERS ---> :cord: <----DFI SUPPORT

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Originally Posted by SchiuZ

Thanks a lot for answering. So for the vDrop mod there is nothing to do.

For the BIOS the problem is that I have an Extreme processor (QX6850) and a Q6600, so I have to switch between the two BIOSs to use one or the other CPU.
I have some problems with the 723 BIOS: for example the LTD Voltage and VTT Voltage in the voltage control menu have been replaced both with a new voice witch is HT Link. So now I have 2 HT link voices and no LTD Voltage or VTT Voltage. Is this normal?
I think that the best BIOS for overlclocking is still the 521, 4C or 2C depending on Extreme or non-x processor, rigth?

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Hello, I ve got the beta BIOS 0625 supposedly meant for the QX6850
-should have an unlocked multi :) I have tried it briefly / no frying at all / , but for me the 0521 is the better one.
If you like, PM me if you do not have it already .:)

Otherwise , ype, agree, this board is not an easy one , I had Striker before this one, but my ES is very picky, there was no way of a decent clocking for me with the ES :p:

very fustrated with this mobo, i cant get 3.8ghz stable and 4ghz for 3dm06. it clocked 3.8 stable on an evga 680i a1.

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Originally Posted by justin_c

very fustrated with this mobo, i cant get 3.8ghz stable and 4ghz for 3dm06. it clocked 3.8 stable on an evga 680i a1.

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Then the A1 is the board I'd be using. Seems a pretty simple solution.

I'm gonna pair my board with a core 2 duo and table the Quads until the X38 chipset. I've got two Q6600's, a G0 & a B3, both of which heats up the power circuitry far too easily. I think the 680i chipset simply isn't up to par for overclocking quad cores. Stock or a little above but not serious overclocking. Suxs because I already have a decent 680i board with the Abit IN9 32-Max.

I've tried the evga a1/t1 boards and did vdroop mod. It's a nice, fairly simple board, but it struggled to clock my quads as well, though easier to setup than the DFI.

im almost sure that i can get 3.8 ghz stable with this dfi, its just i need time to tweak the GTL reference voltages. once those are set and stable, then the board is great, but offers no extra gimmicks or performance over the simpler evga 680i a1.

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Originally Posted by famich

Hello, I ve got the beta BIOS 0625 supposedly meant for the QX6850
-should have an unlocked multi :) I have tried it briefly / no frying at all / , but for me the 0521 is the better one.
If you like, PM me if you do not have it already .:)

Otherwise , ype, agree, this board is not an easy one , I had Striker before this one, but my ES is very picky, there was no way of a decent clocking for me with the ES :p:

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Thank you, I already have that BIOS; I received that few hours ago. A friend tested it and told me that he has better performances, CPU perfectly recognized and a better RAM managment system. Anyway it is ONLY for QX6850 (also ES), so I can't use it with any other CPU.

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Originally Posted by Praz

Then the A1 is the board I'd be using. Seems a pretty simple solution.

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Yes... I also tried the eVga, I personally prefer the DFI motherboard, but I don't like the DFI BIOSs; I think that they can do something better and faster.

In general I prefer P38 Motherboards for ocing quads, I had a very bad experience with the Striker, but I love SLI, so I have to use 680i or 680i LT...

is that BIOS going to be modified for other cpus too (q6600 for example?)
better performance=good. hopefully more stable.

what does the vtt setting does on this board ?

thanks

hlo

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Originally Posted by hlonipha

what does the vtt setting does on this board ?

thanks

hlo

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It helped OC my RAM when I was using the 521 bios. It also helped reduce fsb holes.

Doesn't seem to do the same thing with the newer 723 bios though.

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Originally Posted by hlonipha

what does the vtt setting does on this board ?

thanks

hlo

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It's the termination voltage for the GTL (FSB signalling). It only needs to be adjusted for quad core overclocking... and should be done in relation to the the GTL settings.

More than you ever wanted to know here... http://www.thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=87

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Originally Posted by Praz

Then the A1 is the board I'd be using. Seems a pretty simple solution.

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Yeah... I'm giving my RMA replacement one chance at a decent overclock or it's going in the sale bin.

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Originally Posted by SchiuZ

Thanks for aswering. The problem is that with the BIOS 2CTST I can't even boot at 400Mhz FSB, as I told you, also if I set VTT 1,6v and 190 110 95 and other setting (also NB 1,6v etc). All the hardware has been tested also on a eVga motherboard (new revision) and this CPU is cabable of going at more then 450FSB on that motherboard.

If I use the BIOS 4CTST I have no problems to run @ 400Mhz FSB on this motherboard, I can also set NB 1,51v (1,36 read) and 1,40VTT 170-97-85 (1,36v HT Link read) and I can run a SuperPi 1M and some miutes of Orthos, the problem, as I told you, is that I have locked molti @ 9x, so I can't be stable at 3600Mhz, too high temp or non enough vCore.

This is a scrrenshot taken with the 4CTST BIOS, just to show that I am not cheating:

http://www.pctuner.info/up/results/_...ST521-PI1M.JPG

As you can see the motherboard is cabable to reach easly 400Mhz FSB with the 4CTST BIOS; the problem is that I can't use it because I need too high vCore (1,68 is impossibile to use for more than 1 minute).

So what I supposed I think it was right: the 2CTST BIOS is NOT good for Q6600, and if you use that BIOS the Q6600 will not go at high FSBs (not more than 360Mhz also using high VTT, NB and GTL settings).

I really can't understand this. Why DFI is not supporting the Q6600CPU?

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I understand what you are saying... regardless of what board and bios, what is the best this CPU has done? Has it done 400x9 or 450x8 on an EVGA board? What Vcore? What are the stable conditions you have as a track record for this CPU (if any)?

Thank you again. This CPU was capable of 3,6Ghz 1,58v (real voltage, not selected in BIOS but readed with a tester) 400x9Mhz. This frequency was not Prime 100&#37; stable, but at 3,6Ghz it could run 3DM06 and SuperPi with no problems (also 4x32M SuperPi).

The CPU was perfecrly stable at 3,4Ghz (425x8) vCore 1,45v. Liquid cooled, 8HRs and more QuadPrime and double Orthos blend stable (and not only, I also tried OCCT and other stability test for hours and always setting high priority).

So the CPU is not "exceptional" but it is a good CPU, and I would like to make it run @ 400x8Mhz or something like that. The main problem that I have is not possibile to have a good BIOS, because the 2CTST BIOS is not good for 4Core CPUs, I also spoke with some friends that have direct contacts with DFI, and in theri opinion the correct BIOS is the 4CTST, not the 2CTST (and it is what I also confirm trying them both), but the Q6600 has locked molti with the BIOS, and the reason is that the 4CTST521 BIOS doesn't include the support for changing the multiplier in the non-extreme CPUs. The Extreme CPUs have a differet hardware function to change the multiplier, not depending on the NB freqeuncy, while the non-extreme can lower their multiplier changing (and incrasing) the NB frequency. The forumla is NB Core Clock = (Default Multiplier/Current Multiplier) x FSB and also Praz (DFI Club Moderator) told me this think...

schiuz, have you even played with the gtl reference voltage settings? thats all you need to get 3.6ghz, not 1.58V.

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Originally Posted by SchiuZ

Thank you again. This CPU was capable of 3,6Ghz 1,58v (real voltage, not selected in BIOS but readed with a tester) 400x9Mhz. This frequency was not Prime 100&#37; stable, but at 3,6Ghz it could run 3DM06 and SuperPi with no problems (also 4x32M SuperPi).

The CPU was perfecrly stable at 3,4Ghz (425x8) vCore 1,45v. Liquid cooled, 8HRs and more QuadPrime and double Orthos blend stable (and not only, I also tried OCCT and other stability test for hours and always setting high priority).

So the CPU is not "exceptional" but it is a good CPU, and I would like to make it run @ 400x8Mhz or something like that. The main problem that I have is not possibile to have a good BIOS, because the 2CTST BIOS is not good for 4Core CPUs, I also spoke with some friends that have direct contacts with DFI, and in theri opinion the correct BIOS is the 4CTST, not the 2CTST (and it is what I also confirm trying them both), but the Q6600 has locked molti with the BIOS, and the reason is that the 4CTST521 BIOS doesn't include the support for changing the multiplier in the non-extreme CPUs. The Extreme CPUs have a differet hardware function to change the multiplier, not depending on the NB freqeuncy, while the non-extreme can lower their multiplier changing (and incrasing) the NB frequency. The forumla is NB Core Clock = (Default Multiplier/Current Multiplier) x FSB and also Praz (DFI Club Moderator) told me this think...

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Ok, several things to consider here...

First, we know your CPU is stable at 3.4GHz and a reasonable 1.45VCore.

Keep in mind that the DFI undervolts the Vcore by about 0.07V and then droops an addition 0.05V under load. So to get an equivalent of 1.48V under load with the DFI you are going to want to max the CPU Vid at 1.6V... even to hit 3.4GHz.

3.4GHz is 377x9 or 425x8... Forget about the 425x8... hitting 400+FSB with a quad is extremely difficult on any board... you were lucky to achieve that on the EVGA... not many can do that... it's like winning the lotto. You should just go back to the eVGA with results like that.

With the DFI it may not be possible or would take an endless amount of tweaking GTL. Hence in my opinion you should aim for 377x9 and by the sounds of it you could use either BIOS to do this... certainly the locked multi version. The reason you may not be able to hit 400x8 is possibly due to the particular NB silicon you have on the DFI... perhaps it has a wall or hole there. Also keep in mind that the DFI undervolts the NB like crazy so you really need to crank up the voltage. You should be using something like 1.6x Volts on the NB I think. Also, my NB has holes... try going up in 5MHz increments from 360 and see if any of them work... I found my board wouldn't post at 360 but was perfectly stable at 380 (for example).

Ultimately, I don't think your issue is BIOS related at all (although I share your frustration with the various versions)... perhaps you just have unrealistic expectations for the silicon you have in hand (trying for 400+ FSB)?

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Originally Posted by virtualrain

It's the termination voltage for the GTL (FSB signalling). It only needs to be adjusted for quad core overclocking... and should be done in relation to the the GTL settings.

More than you ever wanted to know here... http://www.thetechrepository.com/showthread.php?t=87

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thanks

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Originally Posted by justin_c

schiuz, have you even played with the gtl reference voltage settings? thats all you need to get 3.6ghz, not 1.58V.

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Thank you. I am "playing" with the GTL settings a lot, trying to find something good to be Prime stable. I am using Orthos Blend test ;). What version of Prime95 do you suggest me? My OS is Vista Ultimate 32.

I read you post here http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/....php?t=155373: your consideration were rellay heplfull for me, this one in particular: use rmclock to disable tm1, tm2, and extended throttling. if you don't do this, the multiplier will drop down to 6x if you go somewhere in the 80C range.

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Originally Posted by virtualrain

Ok, several things to consider here...

First, we know your CPU is stable at 3.4GHz and a reasonable 1.45VCore.

Keep in mind that the DFI undervolts the Vcore by about 0.07V and then droops an addition 0.05V under load. So to get an equivalent of 1.48V under load with the DFI you are going to want to max the CPU Vid at 1.6V... even to hit 3.4GHz.

3.4GHz is 377x9 or 425x8... Forget about the 425x8... hitting 400+FSB with a quad is extremely difficult on any board... you were lucky to achieve that on the EVGA... not many can do that... it's like winning the lotto. You should just go back to the eVGA with results like that.

With the DFI it may not be possible or would take an endless amount of tweaking GTL. Hence in my opinion you should aim for 377x9 and by the sounds of it you could use either BIOS to do this... certainly the locked multi version. The reason you may not be able to hit 400x8 is possibly due to the particular NB silicon you have on the DFI... perhaps it has a wall or hole there. Also keep in mind that the DFI undervolts the NB like crazy so you really need to crank up the voltage. You should be using something like 1.6x Volts on the NB I think. Also, my NB has holes... try going up in 5MHz increments from 360 and see if any of them work... I found my board wouldn't post at 360 but was perfectly stable at 380 (for example).

Ultimately, I don't think your issue is BIOS related at all (although I share your frustration with the various versions)... perhaps you just have unrealistic expectations for the silicon you have in hand (trying for 400+ FSB)?

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Thank you for answering, sorry for beening so late but I was busy.

1) I know that this motherboard drops a lot on voltages, so I am trying to use proper voltages.

2) Probably I will go back to the eVga, but I wanna try again to make this DFI work, and I hope that a better BIOS will be relased.

3) I know that all the chips are different, and probably the one that I have on this moteherboard in the NB is not so good.

4) The fact is that I have problems in booting only using the 2CTST BIOS... With the other BIOS is it not a problem to boot and to run 400Mhz FSB, I have temperature problmes in that case. I will try to change CPU and to thake a G0, I will also try a Phase cooling system. I am sure that the 400+ FSB will not be a problem.

I really think that my problem is BIOS-related. If I could set 6x multi on the 4CTST I am sure that it would be fine to make the system stable @ 400Mhz FSB or more. I will see what it is going to happen when the new CPU G0 and the new cooling system will arrive.

Install XP schiuz ;) anyways, you should be using prime95 v25.4 (which you can only find at the mersenne.org forums, NOT on the front page, so google it).
stress testing>>small ffts. i rarely have problems with this board booting up with unstable settings, usually if its unstable it just shuts down with a blue screen saying MACHINE_CHECK_EXCEPTION.

I recommend adding +2 to the first two gtl values from the default (eg 145/79/77, etc, etc)

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Originally Posted by The Nemesis

I'm gonna pair my board with a core 2 duo and table the Quads until the X38 chipset. I've got two Q6600's, a G0 & a B3, both of which heats up the power circuitry far too easily. I think the 680i chipset simply isn't up to par for overclocking quad cores. Stock or a little above but not serious overclocking. Suxs because I already have a decent 680i board with the Abit IN9 32-Max.

I've tried the evga a1/t1 boards and did vdroop mod. It's a nice, fairly simple board, but it struggled to clock my quads as well, though easier to setup than the DFI.

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Hi, Nemesis, I do agree with you on that - I, too, "stocked " my QX6700ES-simply too hard to clock it up from 3600 stable- running my G0 6850 @4005 stble 24/ now and waiting for the X38- Intel775 was really better for ocing even dualcores B3s, I had always upped the VCORE notch or two more than on 775.:)

hi guys,

does this board come with the solid pcb type sli bridge or a flexible one?

im curious to that as if you have two TR HR-03-Plus's in sli then the hard pcb will not go over one of the coolers

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Originally Posted by Origin_Unknown

hi guys,

does this board come with the solid pcb type sli bridge or a flexible one?

im curious to that as if you have two TR HR-03-Plus's in sli then the hard pcb will not go over one of the coolers

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solid short bridge like on the NF4 boards.

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Originally Posted by The Nemesis

solid short bridge like on the NF4 boards.

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thanks for that.


Ive also noticed that the chipset heatsink is kind of offeset to either side (can you see?) if its mounted so that the bit that sticks up is closer to the cpu do you think that it would be possible to mount a Thermalright HR-03-plus over the back of the card? (i.e. so the heatsink isnt over the memory / regs)

my board will soon back from RMA cos I broken a corner of the nb chip, any one has experience how to apply mcw30 with the 4 hooks?

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Originally Posted by denden

my board will soon back from RMA cos I broken a corner of the nb chip, any one has experience how to apply mcw30 with the 4 hooks?

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i would try to aply the block wiht some thermal adhesive mixed with thermal paste to hold it in place, also im using F fittings from swiftech and 1/4 tubing for the chipset it doesnt put as much pressure on the chipset waterblock so it sits flat.

thks, I will be running 1/2" tube cos I am just running one loop with my fuzion. Yes I also think of using 4 sets of fittings to strengthen the block from moving...

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Originally Posted by Wiggy McShades

i would try to aply the block wiht some thermal adhesive mixed with thermal paste to hold it in place, also im using F fittings from swiftech and 1/4 tubing for the chipset it doesnt put as much pressure on the chipset waterblock so it sits flat.

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For the record, that chipset waterblock is a piece of junk. Go with the dangerden intel maze 4. You'll be glad you did.

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Originally Posted by Lood007

For the record, that chipset waterblock is a piece of junk. Go with the dangerden intel maze 4. You'll be glad you did.

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Agreed. A MCW-30 with 1/2" tubing is suicide on this board.

Another option is to order a MIPS cooler specifically made for this board or to use an Alphacool 4-eyelet block like I'm using. However these options all require ordering from Europe whereas the DD block is readily available in the US.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by virtualrain

However these options all require ordering from Europe whereas the DD block is readily available in the US.

---

... and the mounting solution is simple, sturdy, and it just plain works.

BTW, if anyone is interested in my latest quad overclocking trials and tribulations on my replacement (RMA) board... I'm posting in the much newer thread here... http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=155373

well I could make a order for alphacool here in HK, http://www.alphacool.hk/shop/index.p...r-coolers.html ， while which model no. is it? and how does it mounted onto the 4 hole? could you explain with photo, thks.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by virtualrain

Agreed. A MCW-30 with 1/2" tubing is suicide on this board.

Another option is to order a MIPS cooler specifically made for this board or to use an Alphacool 4-eyelet block like I'm using. However these options all require ordering from Europe whereas the DD block is readily available in the US.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by denden

well I could make a order for alphacool here in HK, http://www.alphacool.hk/shop/index.p...r-coolers.html ， while which model no. is it? and how does it mounted onto the 4 hole? could you explain with photo, thks.

---

This is the one here...

http://www.alphacool.hk/shop/images/...mages/27_0.jpg

It fastens down using what is best described as hooks with threads. The hooks latch onto the motherboard loops and the threaded end protrudes up through the holes in the mounting plate and you finger tighten the supplied nuts.

Because the dimensions of the motherboard loops are not an exact match for the holes in the mounting plate, I opted to notch the hooks with my dremel so they sat perfectly... otherwise they looked like they were protruding at odd angles.

If this hasn't scared you off, I'll post a pic tomorrow.

wa wa! really a bit scaring, yeah awaiting for your pic.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by virtualrain

This is the one here...

http://www.alphacool.hk/shop/images/...mages/27_0.jpg

It fastens down using what is best described as hooks with threads. The hooks latch onto the motherboard loops and the threaded end protrudes up through the holes in the mounting plate and you finger tighten the supplied nuts.

Because the dimensions of the motherboard loops are not an exact match for the holes in the mounting plate, I opted to notch the hooks with my dremel so they sat perfectly... otherwise they looked like they were protruding at odd angles.

If this hasn't scared you off, I'll post a pic tomorrow.

---

Quote:

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Originally Posted by denden

wa wa! really a bit scaring, yeah awaiting for your pic.

---

Here you go.

http://members.shaw.ca/virtualrain/dfi-nb.jpg

Note that the loops are just a tad to the outside of the holes in the mounting plate which is why I notched the hooks a bit out from their natural elbow. They still don't sit perfectly striaght, but good enough to get a nice solid 4-point mount. I actually could turn the thumb-nuts while the board was running to tune the cooling on the NB and ensure it was balanced out.

I also cut the excess threaded portion off the top of the threaded hooks.

i know this is really off topic but does anyone know how i could order the pwm block from mips for this board in the US ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wiggy McShades

i know this is really off topic but does anyone know how i could order the pwm block from mips for this board in the US ?

---

Only direct from MIPS AFAIK.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by virtualrain

Only direct from MIPS AFAIK.

---

thats a difficult task i cant read their website :P and thermalright's cooler aint out till the end of september :(

nice...I think I will get it, for future the block area seems to be large enough to cover the NB IHS of X38 board.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by virtualrain

Here you go.

http://members.shaw.ca/virtualrain/dfi-nb.jpg

Note that the loops are just a tad to the outside of the holes in the mounting plate which is why I notched the hooks a bit out from their natural elbow. They still don't sit perfectly striaght, but good enough to get a nice solid 4-point mount. I actually could turn the thumb-nuts while the board was running to tune the cooling on the NB and ensure it was balanced out.

I also cut the excess threaded portion off the top of the threaded hooks.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by denden

nice...I think I will get it, for future the block area seems to be large enough to cover the NB IHS of X38 board.

---

Order one of these retention kits then as well while you are at it so you can convert it over later...

http://www.alphacool.hk/shop/product...c90d1a15177ee2

One other comment, you will notice that I didn't use the mounting hardware as intended... the proper way is to use springs between the plate and thumb nuts... I didn't bother with that... doing a hard mount. I used the plastic sleeve spring limiters upside down through the holes to better keep the threaded shafts upright instead of coming out an angle. There is enough give in the mounting plate to ensure you don't snap anything as long as you tighten it gently and not too much. Lots of previous hook and loop users have tightened too much and broke loops before so don't do that. Tweak it like I did while running the board to get the best temps being careful not to overtighten.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Wiggy McShades

thats a difficult task i cant read their website :P and thermalright's cooler aint out till the end of september :(

---

Just email Michael Franke at MIPS at... info@mips-computer.de

He speaks English and arrange the whole transaction with him by email/paypal.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by virtualrain

Just email Michael Franke at MIPS at... info@mips-computer.de

He speaks English and arrange the whole transaction with him by email/paypal.

---

wow thanks :up:

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wiggy McShades

i know this is really off topic but does anyone know how i could order the pwm block from mips for this board in the US ?

---

I ordered my 680i LT set from mips and got it here in Florida USA
in 6 days which is faster than some in the U.S. can get it done. Excellent communication and nothing but Kudos. Very friendly and helpful

DFI LANparty UT n680i LT Freezer Set. Bestellnummer: MCH407

mailto: info@mips-computer.de

I paid less than 200 US including shipment.


virtualrain where are you getting those right angle barbs at, and when ya gonna post your water set up pics??

I have ordered the alphacool one finally, but wanna know if water resistence of this block is high cos I found the crack inside is so narrow and the space inside seems not a lot for high water flow.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by virtualrain

Agreed. A MCW-30 with 1/2" tubing is suicide on this board.

Another option is to order a MIPS cooler specifically made for this board or to use an Alphacool 4-eyelet block like I'm using. However these options all require ordering from Europe whereas the DD block is readily available in the US.

---

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by denden

I have ordered the alphacool one finally, but wanna know if water resistence of this block is high cos I found the crack inside is so narrow and the space inside seems not a lot for high water flow.

---

Yeah, it seems like a fairly high resistence design... but effective. I modified the insides of mine to be higher flow but I'm not sure that was really necessary. (I can't buy anything without modding it! LOL!)

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by owcraftsman

virtualrain where are you getting those right angle barbs at, and when ya gonna post your water set up pics??

---

Dude, if you can believe it, I'm still wrapping up the build... 4 months later!... the pics will come when I'm done... maybe (crosses fingers) as early as next week.

BTW, those are Koolance compression fittings. They come in swivel elbows or straight and in 3/8" or 1/2" sizes. The only issue with the normal straight fittings is that you need min 20mm center-to-center spacing between inlet outlet on blocks to use the 3/8" ones and even more for the 1/2" ones. The elbows are sweet though and can be used on pretty much any block.

how you modded?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by virtualrain

Yeah, it seems like a fairly high resistence design... but effective. I modified the insides of mine to be higher flow but I'm not sure that was really necessary. (I can't buy anything without modding it! LOL!)

---

Quote:

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Originally Posted by denden

how you modded?

---

I dremelled out some of the copper inside. I'll post pics in a few days.

Well my board took a dive, nvidia sata controller do not work, it is rebooting to a frozen post screen (once it reboots and it start to show cpu info it freezes and will not continue to post, it randomly freezes while on desktop, already tried different cpu, video, sound and ram. oh well

Quote:

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Originally Posted by hlonipha

Well my board took a dive, nvidia sata controller do not work, it is rebooting to a frozen post screen (once it reboots and it start to show cpu info it freezes and will not continue to post, it randomly freezes while on desktop, already tried different cpu, video, sound and ram. oh well

---

Crap that sucks. Ask for cross-shipment on your RMA... my retailer was able to swing that with DFI for me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by virtualrain

Crap that sucks. Ask for cross-shipment on your RMA... my retailer was able to swing that with DFI for me.

---

Yeap I'm getting cross ship but I had to pay the full price of board plus overnight shipping. I'm thinking once I get the new one sell it and buy something else. Not sure which board should I buy now that I do not run SLI I really do not need the 680I chipset.

Get an X38 board then.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by virtualrain

Get an X38 board then.

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Looking for availability now. Wonder if I will find someone to buy my dfi

How about new bios :)

http://us.dfi.com.tw/Support/Downloa...FLAG=B&SITE=US

ill try it later. i was thinking about a new bios last night too.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by AlphaHeX

How about new bios :)

http://us.dfi.com.tw/Support/Downloa...FLAG=B&SITE=US

---

what they still love us? someone try this asap maybe ill keep this board now.

can anyone tell me if this board has the same restart/power down procedure as the asus boards? i have a p5k deluxe and the moment and its a nigtmare tryin to save overclocked settings. board completely powers down then restarts after 2-3 seconds but the chillcontrol thinks the pc has been shutdown and turns of the cooling unit. :(

so i'm searching for a board that doesnt do that.

hope you guys can help:)

Only the intel P35 chipset does that. nVidia's does not turn on/off when changing settings.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Lood007

Only the intel P35 chipset does that. nVidia's does not turn on/off when changing settings.

---

cheers mate. most appreciated. now i can purchase the board.

I've read a report of audio crackling in games with a Sound Blaster X-Fi in this DFI board, particularly when using dual cards in SLI. I also read on Auzentech's website that nVIDIA has released to its partners BIOS changes which fix the problem.

Does this board work perfectly with an X-Fi in either Vista 32-bit or 64-bit? FYI, brand new drivers for the X-Fi are out as of today.

I'm trying to decide whether to get this DFI board, or the Gigabyte 680i SLI Rev 2.0 board for just a good all around stable, supported board. Ideally I want something well designed enough to support high voltage low CAS RAM.

Greets.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by The Jedi

I've read a report of audio crackling in games with a Sound Blaster X-Fi in this DFI board, particularly when using dual cards in SLI. I also read on Auzentech's website that nVIDIA has released to its partners BIOS changes which fix the problem.

Does this board work perfectly with an X-Fi in either Vista 32-bit or 64-bit? FYI, brand new drivers for the X-Fi are out as of today.

I'm trying to decide whether to get this DFI board, or the Gigabyte 680i SLI Rev 2.0 board for just a good all around stable, supported board. Ideally I want something well designed enough to support high voltage low CAS RAM.

Greets.

---

The only info I have is from the DFI Club Forums where it was assumed to be an isolated incident worthy of an RMA... http://csd.dficlub.org/forum/showthread.php?t=3986

Pump101, the board is doing power down but it is a rare situation. For example changing NB voltage to 1.54V will poweroff the PC :) You have then to power it on manually but of course everything is working fine after that :)

Hey all,

2 questions:

1. How's the new N5FD723 BIOS working out?

2. For the record, my southbridge fan started making a pretty high-pitched annoying whine today (non-OC), so that's probably on it's way out. Amazing given how little I've had this board up and running... :(

-volve

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by volve

Hey all,

2 questions:

1. How's the new N5FD723 BIOS working out?

2. For the record, my southbridge fan started making a pretty high-pitched annoying whine today (non-OC), so that's probably on it's way out. Amazing given how little I've had this board up and running... :(

-volve

---

Is anyone running the latest 9xx BIOS?

virtualrain, I'm not brave enough :) I've just moved from 521 to 723 BIOS and I'm now able to run my 4 sticks at speeds greater than 1080 -> the current maximum for me is 1122 :)

As soon as my board gets back here I'll flash it..

regards
raja

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by raju

As soon as my board gets back here I'll flash it..

regards
raja

---

Hey Raja... good to hear from you here. Any idea what changes have been made since the 521 bios? It seems to be a bit of a mystery. I'm usually of the "if it's not broke don't fix it" mentality, but these days with so many variables and issues, how can you know if it's not broke?

I recently got an RMA board and got it overclocking fine at 3.6GHz and 1.6Vcore. I didn't have any trouble with the multi changing to x6 under load before.

Now, I was just doing a recheck of Prime Stability on my system today and I noticed it was dropping to x6 under load immediatly.

I double-checked that C1E is disabled. I checked that the power profile is set to "High Performance" in Windows.

Any ideas?

BTW there is a new Beta BIOS... 928... anyone wanna try this one? :p:

Link

Not me. I've been burnt twice by upgrading my BIOS on this board so I'm staying away until we have something that is confirmed to be working.

Welcome to XS Chjohans! :welcome: :up:

Hello evrybody Im getting this board sometime next week so what bios is stable on this board?

Thanks in advance

Thanks virtualrain :)

I've been lurking around in this forum for a while, guess it's about time to start contributing.

BTW virtualrain, thanks for all the excellent info on your blog re the NF680i board. :up:

My DFI 680i decided to break last weekend after a simple HSF change :(
Stuck on code 88 for no apparant reason.

As there are virtually NONE left in Australia coupled with other reasons I'm selling my MIPS kit and waiting out for 780i.

Very dissapointed because I loved the board up until this.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Borgod

My DFI 680i decided to break last weekend after a simple HSF change :(
Stuck on code 88 for no apparant reason.

As there are virtually NONE left in Australia coupled with other reasons I'm selling my MIPS kit and waiting out for 780i.

Very dissapointed because I loved the board up until this.

---

I don't think the 780i is going to be much more than a 680i with a new suit.

I know, but Im willing to wait a few weeks and see how it is.

does the dfi n680 support the cpu 45nm??

I'm having big problems with this bord, can't get past code 4E . Bord has worked fine for some months. I desided to move in all my stuff in a new chassi. All i got now is code 4E. I have cleared cmos and tested with 1 stick of ram but no go? Anyone have any suggestions ?

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by erixon

I'm having big problems with this bord, can't get past code 4E . Bord has worked fine for some months. I desided to move in all my stuff in a new chassi. All i got now is code 4E. I have cleared cmos and tested with 1 stick of ram but no go? Anyone have any suggestions ?

---

Post over in the DFI Club forums if you havn't done so already.

The CMOS can be a real PITA to clear on this board for some reason... so some people have only had luck clearing CMOS completely by leaving the battery out and the jumper on the clear position for 30+min or more.

Another board bite the dust, my 680i-lt died the other day from a bios update. Even set bios to default before update and still got the error code 88. Its in RMA process now, but damn this board is mess, compared to my old trusty NF4 Ultra-D its pale in comparison.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by virtualrain

Post over in the DFI Club forums if you havn't done so already.

The CMOS can be a real PITA to clear on this board for some reason... so some people have only had luck clearing CMOS completely by leaving the battery out and the jumper on the clear position for 30+min or more.

---

I cleared the CMOS with battery out for 10 hours, but no go. Post code 4E means: "Program MTRR of M1 CPU; initialize L2 cache for P6 class CPU & program cacheable range; Initialize the APIC for P6 class CPU; On MP platform, adjust the cacheable range to smaller one in case the cacheable ranges between each CPU are not identical"

Tested the cpu on a friends evga and it booted fine. maybe it's my new enermax galaxy 1000W that makes me all this trouble??? It worked fine with my old siilverstone zeus 850

I tried the 928 BIOS on my new 2TRS board (with solid caps) and it won't POST with my Areca card. The 728 BIOS seems to work ok, so I'll be working with that.

I don't understand how so many people have bricked their boards flashing BIOS... it shouldn't have to be black magic.

Still waiting on a response from DFI regarding my RMA....

Being given little reason to ever buy another DFI product again.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Borgod

Still waiting on a response from DFI regarding my RMA....

Being given little reason to ever buy another DFI product again.

---

I'm really starting to agree with you.

Had someone tested increased PCI-E frequency vs. GPU overclockability and performance? I'm wordering what is safe PCI-E frequency and if there are any benefits? What about higher PCI-E frequency and SATA drives corruption?

Damn dfi, my 680i-lt its in rma and those bastard want 50.00 for the repairs, saying that it has physical damage on the NB chipset. Its was working fine before with the damage on the corner, just a little nick from installing the damn big heatsink it came with. I know its from a bios update and those ahole wont admit it. Had to give the money because 50 its better than a new comparable mb. This is the last dfi im getting for sure.

I had the same experience as yours.....damn I will never buy it again

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by NeoGeo333

Damn dfi, my 680i-lt its in rma and those bastard want 50.00 for the repairs, saying that it has physical damage on the NB chipset. Its was working fine before with the damage on the corner, just a little nick from installing the damn big heatsink it came with. I know its from a bios update and those ahole wont admit it. Had to give the money because 50 its better than a new comparable mb. This is the last dfi im getting for sure.

---

great news! I have flashed my mobo to bios 10/18/2007 and it fixed the multi drop when full loaded, and seems it runs cooler, now I priming it at 3710 at 1.48v loaded, core temp read 58, 57, 58, 57 for 15 mins now.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by denden

great news! I have flashed my mobo to bios 10/18/2007 and it fixed the multi drop when full loaded, and seems it runs cooler, now I priming it at 3710 at 1.48v loaded, core temp read 58, 57, 58, 57 for 15 mins now.

---

What does your loop consist of? Any active cooling on the mosfets? Water on the northbridge? I've not completely given up on the board which is why I still have it, but the p965-S Dark is 12hours prime stable @ 3.5Ghz on my b3. The PWM's on the 680i probably won't make a 12hr run , but let us know if you make 4 - 8hrs. I'd love to go back to 8800GTX SLI + Quad Core@ 3.6Ghz:D

my loop consist of mcw60, fuzion, 2 x mcr320 with 1 x D5 and a active fan blowing on the mosfets. I will get an alphacool chipset wb this weekend to install. I am priming my Q6600 at 422.5 x 9 = 3800. so far stable for 5 mins. If it can hang on for 1 hr I got no reason to shift to P35 or X38.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by The Nemesis

What does your loop consist of? Any active cooling on the mosfets? Water on the northbridge? I've not completely given up on the board which is why I still have it, but the p965-S Dark is 12hours prime stable @ 3.5Ghz on my b3. The PWM's on the 680i probably won't make a 12hr run , but let us know if you make 4 - 8hrs. I'd love to go back to 8800GTX SLI + Quad Core@ 3.6Ghz:D

---

confirmed the new bios helps me push my Q6600 to 3.8G running prime for 1 hour and solve the multi drop problems, strongly recommand DFI680i owner to flash!

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Wiggy McShades

yeah thats pretty bad, it gets worse when you get yours back and it still doesn't work and they wont refund your money. that was my last dfi, they even lost my board before they fixed it for a month. in total a 310 dollar board + a 50 dollar repair + gone for 2 months because they lost the board in their department after giving me the wrong rma number = im not giving them another dime.

---

fingers crossed with the "repaired" board. dying to try new bios to see what can it do with dual cores. Hopefully it would not die on me like last time.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by denden

confirmed the new bios helps me push my Q6600 to 3.8G running prime for 1 hour and solve the multi drop problems, strongly recommand DFI680i owner to flash!

---

Thanks, My loop consists of Swiftech Apooge GT, Thermochill PA120.2. My 8800GTX is cooled by MC60 & Corsair Nautilus. When I used the DFI, I had the northbridge with MC30 on the same loop as cpu. If you reach 4 hrs I'm so switching bact to this board & SLI.