Home made UV dyes

Hey, I just sent you a PM where we can work out the details. But I'm looking for a nice UV blue. Much lighter and more blue than what I have with Feser (which looks dull and teal, too much green IMO)

I like the blue on post #365., or if you could post some pics up of what you have would be great!

edit: here is a pic of what I'm looking for in a color. Its a thumbnail so just click it. but whats in the circle is what I'm looking for. on the far left you see similar to what I have right now, except more green.
http://img3.tinypic.info/files/edwmc...tl6x_thumb.jpg

Ill see what i can come up with for you. Let the lads check ou the new samples ive sent out and see what they think.

God im so tird lol.

Any way a few qustion have been asked wich id rather see asked and answerd in the forums.

Colour diffrence.

To get UV to glow real nice you need a light back ground. So if you have a white case and a UV light inside it will reflect the light much better than having a dark case and cheap ass black light. My Dyes glow so much in the pics because i place them on a white chopping bord and have the UV light with tin foil on it making all the light go stright to the dyes. there for im makeing a perfect envirment for this dyes. This how ever is not allways possable in a case esp with cheap UV lights and esp when the light is not directed.

So if you what to achive a real deep UV glow simlar to mine your going to have to think about lighting you case up correcly and just thowing in UV CCFLs wont allways do the trick so plan ahead if you can :) ..

Allso the none UV dyes such as Deep Purple and candy red are just that. there none UV. If you would like a red that is UV it takes a bit of work and deving. I have never seen a perfect UV red made yet and i have never my self been able to pull off a perfect UV red how ever i am still working on it. It just takes time. Please be pachent.

I have 150 diffrent colours in total in Dye form. I cannot do them all in one go my misses goes mad with me allready lol. It takes 8 hours just to filter 1 dye and that is not inculding how long to test the dye for brake down lol... it not as simple as yes it a dye throw it in :) ....

thats all for now i need some sleep ...

The UV Yellow/Green dye and Biocide test samples arrived today. That's a very fast delivery.


It's time to flush my watercooling and try them out.

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Originally Posted by A-Grey

The UV Yellow/Green dye and Biocide test samples arrived today. That's a very fast delivery.


It's time to flush my watercooling and try them out.

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hehe before you do its green not yellow green, the mix has been made with a mixture of both UV yellow/green and UV green to give a more real looking green effect under normal light and more greenish look under UV ... lol.

Thought id just say before you flush and go. best to test it in a galss with normal water to make shure your happy first. :)

Still waiting for mine in America, should come in sometime this week. If it comes during the week ill have pics up on the weekend when i come back home from college for the weekend.

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Originally Posted by mlwood37

hehe before you do its green not yellow green, the mix has been made with a mixture of both UV yellow/green and UV green to give a more real looking green effect under normal light and more greenish look under UV ... lol.

Thought id just say before you flush and go. best to test it in a galss with normal water to make shure your happy first. :)

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To late. I already flushed my watercooling and filled it again with demineralized water and added 2 drops Mayhem's Biocide.

I've got exactly 520ml demineralized water in my loop. I added a few drops of the dye and it looks like dark yellow. When I'm using my UV cold cathodes lights I don't see any difference in color or glow. :(


I used a white bucket to drain the old UV Green coolant and when I hold the bucket in the UV light the coolant glows like bright light. This is very strange because that coolant didn't glow in my loop. :confused:

So it isn't a problem with the UV activity from the dye but why it doesn't glow in the loop is something I don't understand because when I use HydrX in my loop the coolant glows with UV light. :shrug:


I would like it to be more green but that isn't a problem because I've got more than enough UV Green dye to mix with the UV Yellow/Green-Green. I'm going to try it in a small bottle to know how much drops I'm going to need to mix the colour in my loop.

wow thats wired

So it doesnt look green to you at all. and not showing Florsent green.

Is there a number under the bottle.

Allso 1 drop of biocide is enough mate you dont need two drops. The stuff is concentrate and very strong.

Ill run tests again tonight with the mix and see if a can produce the same results as you self.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mlwood37

wow thats wired

So it doesnt look green to you at all. and not showing Florsent green.

Is there a number under the bottle.

Allso 1 drop of biocide is enough mate you dont need two drops. The stuff is concentrate and very strong.

Ill run tests again tonight with the mix and see if a can produce the same results as you self.

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WTF I've added 1 drop of the UV Yellow/Green-Green dye in the bottle with 30ml demineralized water and it's actually green and it glows nicely with UV light. :yepp:

Time to flush the loop again. I have no idea what went wrong because there's nothing else in the loop than DEMI water and the Biocide and a few drops dye. :confused:


The number on the bottle is 53 or S3.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by A-Grey

WTF I've added 1 drop of the UV Yellow/Green-Green dye in the bottle with 30ml demineralized water and it's actually green and it glows nicely with UV light. :yepp:

Time to flush the loop again. I have no idea what went wrong because there's nothing else in the loop than DEMI water and the Biocide and a few drops dye. :confused:


The number on the bottle is 53 or S3.

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The biocide is very strong. I might need to weeken it. try it with out biocide and then add 1 drop only. Test between with and with out.

OK I've found what the problem is. The Biocide destroys the green colour.

From the moment I add 1 drop in the bottle the colour turns to dark yellow. :confused:

Cool. thats quite good to know its to strong lol. Bit of a bugger up .. (ill pull from sales immdetly)

Ill have to clam it down. The stuff is prper concente . ill have a word with suppler and get it weekend down. The stuff will kill any thing with in the loop basicly as soon as its added. As its a zapper as well.

When i say world strongest lol you can see its no joke.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mlwood37

Cool. thats quite good to know its to strong lol. Bit of a bugger up .. (ill pull from sales immdetly)

Ill have to clam it down. The stuff is prper concente . ill have a word with suppler and get it weekend down. The stuff will kill any thing with in the loop basicly as soon as its added. As its a zapper as well.

When i say world strongest lol you can see its no joke.

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Yup Its happing here. Its only effecting the green dye its self not the yellow/green or any other color hmm. This is very intresting.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mlwood37

Yup Its happing here. Its only effecting the green dye its self not the yellow/green or any other color hmm. This is very intresting.

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:yepp: And that's why it's dark yellow. I added to much dye and only the yellow remains. :D

Hmm this is the biggist head ace getting a decend biocide made. This is realy good stuff but if it does that to the green its going to cuase to many problems. Ill Ive just been chatting to the chemist and hes said dilute it and see how it goes. So ill have a play .. gonna try a 50/50 redction.

Why not just use a killcoil? :ROTF:. Havent received the dyes yet but most likely wont be using the biocide because I like silver coils :). Or well I'll probably test it with the blue, just to check if there will be any... funny stuff :shrug:. Most likely will receive them tomorrow so will post pics then.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mlwood37

Hmm this is the biggist head ace getting a decend biocide made. This is realy good stuff but if it does that to the green its going to cuase to many problems. Ill Ive just been chatting to the chemist and hes said dilute it and see how it goes. So ill have a play .. gonna try a 50/50 redction.

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:yepp: As I added more water the Green colour came back.

The easiest way to find out is to add 1 drop to 500ml water + UV Yellow/Green-Green dye. Than add more water till the green colour comes back.

The Yellow/Green-Green dye is very good. You don't need much dye to have it to look like green with UV light.


I added 20 drops UV Yellow/Green-Green and 10 drops UV Green to +/- 500ml DEMI water. You can do with less dye but I wanted it to show green also with daylight.

Now it's a nice green with a lot better glow with my 2 UV Cold Cathode lights. :up:


I'm going to ask someone I know to take some pictures because my camera isn't good enough.

wow thats alot of dye. I think my idear of nice colour is a little diffrent to every one else. hehe. 20 drops is a lot. Please keep an eye on you system.

Any way ive been playing again lol ive reduce the biocide to 50% strengh and its not effecting the green how ever i need to run this over at least 3 months to see if it still degrades the dyes.As for now the biosides been pulled becuase it way to strong for normal users untill i can get a defeante answer. No one seems to read warnings lol so i need to comepnesate this...

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mlwood37

wow thats alot of dye. I think my idear of nice colour is a little diffrent to every one else. hehe. 20 drops is a lot. Please keep an eye on you system.

Any way ive been playing again lol ive reduce the biocide to 50% strengh and its not effecting the green how ever i need to run this over at least 3 months to see if it still degrades the dyes.As for now the biosides been pulled becuase it way to strong for normal users untill i can get a defeante answer. No one seems to read warnings lol so i need to comepnesate this...

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I used a little more than 1ml for 520ml DEMI Water. I don't worry about staining or anything else. If I do run in to trouble I know it's because I used to much but I don't think I will because... well you know what I'm using in my loop to try to keep it clean.


As for your Biocide. I should have used 1 drop for 1 liter. There's only 520ml in my loop so I should have used 1/2 drop. :rofl:

Yeh its 1 drop per 1 ltr dut im wokring on chainging that to 2 drop to 1/2 ltr with the new mix ive just orderd. lol

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mlwood37

Yeh its 1 drop per 1 ltr dut im wokring on chainging that to 2 drop to 1/2 ltr with the new mix ive just orderd. lol

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That's good. If you only use a watercooling to cool the CPU and you don't have a big reservoir you probably need less than 500ml in your loop so 1 drop could be still to much.

That's why I tried with 2 drops to see how strong it is and it's extremely strong. :D


I don't know if you're going to change something in the Biocide but if you don't change anything I could try with adding 40ml DEMI water to the 10ml Biocide and make 250ml coolant with the dye and 1 drop of the Biocide to see if it's better and keep that in a bottle for some time to see if it stays good.

TBH I make all dyes in 1 Ltr bottles and same goes for the Biocide. Ill take the biocide and make it at a 25% mix ratio as been running tests all night at the effect on the green as its the only dye that is being overwelmed by the biocide.

I asked the maker of the biocide why its happening and they came back and said it because it has a element inside the is a so called "Zapper" it attacks green algi directly via removing its abilty to take in UV light and killing it dead. They said the chances are the green dye is being "Zapped" by this method. Wich is realy intresting. So i need to run longer tests on it to see if over a period of time it reduces the green dye's abilty to reflect UV Green and Green.

At least 1 thing is for sure it works very well at doing it job proably to well. lol

What's the best solution to keep your loop clean? -It's probably PT Nuke or a Killcoil. :shrug:


But what if you're using mixed metals and if you want to use some dye?


For those of you who have been following this thread you probably remember me asking mlwood37 if it would be possible to use his dye and water wetting agent. I've tested it and it works.

I would have waited for this to go public with my results but mlwood37 suggested me to throw it in the thread.


Everyone knows that the car industry has some products that you can use in your watercooling loop but so has the printing industry.

The product that I'm using in my loop is Anchor Water Wetting Agent. It's a product that I'm using for years at work to add it to DeMi water so our automatic cleaning device stays clean.

I've been testing it in my loop without dye for a few months and it helped to keep my loop clean.


I know that if you use anything else in your loop than pure water the temperature is going to be worse.

Not with Anchor Water Wetting Agent.


Here's a screenshot running LinX at 4.05GHz with pure DeMi water that I made a few months a go.


http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/q...eMiWater-1.jpg


And here's one with 5% Anchor Water Wetting Agent that I added after the first test and let it mix in with the DeMi Water for a few minutes.


http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/q...ingAgent-1.jpg


Don't look at the CPU temperature in ASUS PC Probe II because it always fluctuates with a few degrees and isn't really accurate. Look at the core temps in RealTemp because they show you the maximum temperature they reach at full load with LinX without fluctuating.

As you can see there's only one degree difference between the test with pure DeMi water and the test with 5% Anchor Water Wetting Agent. I don't know if the one degree difference is because I added 5% Anchor Water Wetting Agent or if it's because the computer was already a little warmer because of the firts LinX test with pure DeMi water.

Anyway the temperature difference is so small that I can say that it's negligible.


The Anchor Water Wetting Agent should help to keep your loop clean. It contains a biocide and a corrosion inhibitor. It might help against staining of the dyes and if you want to clean your loop you can add a few percentages more Anchor Water Wetting Agent without dye to clean your loop.

Ive been using 8% Anchor Water Wetting Agent in my loop for a few days and it did a good job to clean my watercooling loop. When I flushed it the coolant had a light green colour. The colour was still in my loop after I flushed it with pure DeMi water and before I filled it back with the 8% Anchor Water Wetting Agent.


I'm now using 2% Anchor Water Wetting Agent in my loop and a lot of dye (to much than actually necessary) to see if it still can keep my loop clean.

The reason that I said earlier that I don't worry about staining or running in to trouble with so much dye is because I know if I don't use any dye in my loop and I add a few percentages more Anchor Water Wetting Agent in my loop it's going to clean it and in worst case scenario after a few flushes all will be gone.


Now, where can you buy this Anchor Water Wetting Agent?

I don't know. Anchor is a Belgian company and is now a part of FUJIFILM Europe. You could ask a local printing company where you can buy it or if they use it themselves if you can buy some of them because I don't think you're going to need 5 liter Anchor Water Wetting Agent to keep your loop clean. :D

Here is a table list of what is used in the dyes and how much is mixed to create the dyes. This will help if you intrested in making your own dyes. I have a more complex version but ive cut this down to size.

Hope this helps with any one wishing to mix there own.