The model number
Think its a 10000btu/h, its a Tecumesh produced under some italian company brand
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The model number
Think its a 10000btu/h, its a Tecumesh produced under some italian company brand
And the compressor cleaned
Nice compressor man.
Looks to be like a 1HP LBP model?
Always a kick to go shopping for parts!
What gonna happen to the new compressor?
Dunno yet, probably ill use it to cool my chipset and graphics card
damn u lucky boy! how much is that worth? in US ? nice work man!!!
Ok... ran in to troubles with that damn cascade, it never stopped leaking...
As i counted it- there were 3 revisions of the cascade's prototypes (all not working) and this would be the 4th, so ill call it MK4...
I wont post any info on it as long as i wont be sure that at least the I stage works... That will be in like 2-3 days, but ill take pics etc so there will be a nice gallery...
One pic of the frame i made of wood and aliminium, you can see the 10k btu tecumesh and the old sanyo compressor... and the almost empty can of R22 wich will be used as a relief tank..
Tak jak napisalem w PM - swietna robota stary!
Sorry for non english insert:)
I wish I was still in High Sk001 and had so much time to modding... :(
Nevertheless, I had an ide for a long time doing rounds inside my skull.
What about using some powerfull phase change contraption to k001 226watt pelt?
Non load temp delta is 60C, so if you managed to keep hot side @ let's say -20C under load (~300watts of heat load for the hot side) you'd get -80 load temps on the other side, right?
Or maybe it'd be better to water cool sauch a pelt with chilled coolant liquid cooling setup (Swiftech MCW5000P-T)
Would it be possible to get coolant to -20 under load?
I heard that peltiers lose efficency after a certain temperature.
I'm pretty sure tha a peltier at -30 would act as an insulator.
I guess Berkut could try this idea out pretty quickly (I hope)
The pelt adds a great deal of heat in addition to its disadvantages at low temps. If you are going to stack a pelt and a phase change system, it would make more sense to put the pelt on top.
For example, if we added an air cooled pelt in series with (after) the condenser on a prommie, dropping the condensing temperature 25C or thereabouts, we could switch it to R404A without changing the cap tube, and achieve substantially lower temps than any of the R404A prommie mods thus far.
With this mod, I might even be tempted to go with R410A for even lower temps, although this would require dropping the condensing temp by about 30C or so to avoid changing the cap tube.
Either way, we would want to run the pelt until it gets very cold before starting the phase change system.
Thx, ale dopuki nie skoncze dziela to wciaz bedzie tylko sterta miedzi i innego zelastwa ;]Quote:
Tak jak napisalem w PM - swietna robota stary!
I have final exams this year (maturka...)Quote:
I wish I was still in High Sk001 and had so much time to modding...
@ ~-40C peltiers are 50% efficient- @ -40C a 200W pelt is only 100W...Quote:
What about using some powerfull phase change contraption to k001 226watt pelt?
nope... im not a pelt guru but i can say that fully loaded, cpu + pelt can put out over 400W of heat easylyQuote:
Non load temp delta is 60C, so if you managed to keep hot side @ let's say -20C under load (~300watts of heat load for the hot side) you'd get -80 load temps on the other side, right?
Its not efficient.. the best way to cool water is the vapour phase change way..Quote:
Or maybe it'd be better to water cool sauch a pelt with chilled coolant liquid cooling setup (Swiftech MCW5000P-T)
Would it be possible to get coolant to -20 under load?
Gary- i dont think a pelt would do the job if it comes to subcooling freon... Its to weak i think, it would be better to use a small refrigerator compressor as a dedicated subchiller...
I'm not talking about subcooling. The condenser would cool the refrigerant coming from the compressor to room temperature, and the pelt would condense it below room temperature. To be sure, it would take a big pelt or maybe two pelts. Something like 300-400W. If big enough, the condenser would not be needed. It would act the same as a cascade interstage heat exchanger, with the pelt(s) being the high stage.
Hi, which gases do you use on the two stages ?
Welcome to Xtreme zytrahus:D
:toast:
thx ;)Quote:
Originally posted by TheDude
Welcome to Xtreme zytrahus:D
:toast:
I found your thread and Xtrem-Systems, I'm just building two systems, one two stages and an other three stages.
What gases do yo use ?
Thats the $1m question ;)Quote:
Originally posted by zytrahus
What gases do yo use ?
]JR[
no less than $3 lol
There're many combinaisons...
There are a great many possible combinations. The traditional mix would be: R22 or R502 in the high stage. R13, ethane or ethylene in the low stage. If a third stage is added, this would contain R14.
Each of these refrigerants have suitable substitutes with similar characteristics.
My 3 cascade cooling system is : propane / ethane / R14
soon ready
Although us hobbyists have problems obtaining high pressure refrigerants that we can use, noble gases, co2, oxygen, nitrogen are easy to get but difficult to use.
]JR[
Do NOT ever even consider using oxygen. Put that thought entirely out of your mind.
Oxygen + Oil = Bomb
Spontaneous combustion. No spark needed. People with oxy/acetylene torches have been killed by cleaning the oxygen regulator with soap, because the soap contains oil.
+1
lol, i was just listing what i can get...
All the noble gases have condensing pressures way out of scope for a 2 stage cascade, going for a 3 stage is no easier because i'd still be missing the intermediate like ethane :/
Surely there is something we have overlooked in terms of a ghetto high pressure refrigerant?
]JR[
ethane roxxx