okok... God, I hate doin this over and over, cut add, evac, repititive work!
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okok... God, I hate doin this over and over, cut add, evac, repititive work!
Hope it works! :)
Or so restrictive you burnt up your compressor or have way too much sub-cooling from filling up the condenser.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
ummmmm you forgot the the F word as in Friction ,not to mention a dozen other processes/words that happen in a refrigeration/cap tube cycle .Time to go to the Library.
Walt, I listed a few symptoms that he was having the opposite on. This isn't a safety recommendation I made, please don't try and bludgen me for attempting to assisst Shamino in getting results for the cryostars.
Quote:
Originally Posted by LardArse
sham would you say that the ultra is putting out more heat then a quad@ 1.8v
according to gabe they measured 8800 cards on watercooling and max heat dump they had was around 115W so not even close to a quadQuote:
Originally Posted by bazx
Thanks, 7 odd meters of 0.4" is beter now, fuly charged I do -88C idle, and load goes to -85C, but will drop to -82C at toug moments.
I put Cascade Cryostar Evap on ASUS Blitz Extreme:
http://resources.vr-zone.com/Shamino/blitz/7.jpg
Great results with the Cryostar, I can do 972MHz Core, 2430MHz Shader and 1242MHz Memory, without flashing shaders.
http://resources.vr-zone.com/Shamino/blitz/3.jpg
close to 20K with just a 4.8G Kentsfield.
I get almost similar results with LN2 on card so cryostar is now treating my card real good :D
oh nbo that can't be, but they're hot thats what i feel benchying them.Quote:
Originally Posted by bazx
:rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by LardArse
If you want to add more restriction and have a tiny little clamp (as your current cap tube I've found is for 250-350 wattage range), applying a small fine tuning clamp or micrometer to the capillary right before evap you can very slightly squeeze on down.
benching a quad at 4.8GHz is impressive wow :shocked:
what vcore did you have on it
these new Quads are soooo nice.....charles one is in a 24/7 VapoLS rig chilli1 modded at 4.5GHz and benches few hundred MHz higher....amazing
If you think safety is all I understand,your way, way off base. you don't lengthen a cap tube so the pressure rises to get a higher mass flow from a greater DP.It,s a cap tube not a garden hose. Most of the pressure drop is at the very beginning of a cap tube,Liquid line end.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
tried that before, but now cap tube before evap is too buried, and i dont wanna overpinch , that will be a hassle!Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
I'll styick to these temps since card clocks wouldn't be improving from that 5C.
And your point Walt? Slightly pinching the cap tube right before the evaporator will indeed add more restriction, it's a very plausible way to do it. In the industry sometimes they'll just run a ton of captubes to the evaporator and pinch them off till they get where they want.Quote:
If you think safety is all I understand,your way, way off base. you don't lengthen a cap tube so the pressure rises to get a higher mass flow from a greater DP.It,s a cap tube not a garden hose. Most of the pressure drop is at the very beginning of a cap tube,Liquid line end.
How can I get one of those babies? I already have a good one for my 3-stager; but I may need one for a 2-stager which I'll probably build very soon. :)
you will do much better in knowledge and in your work/business if you get your information from books edited for accuracy than most other sources. Of course your not going to find a CPU evaporators chapter, but all these are is simple single stage and cascades,with the exception of auto-cascades. Which I believe should only be attempted after years and years building the previous 2 and have a deep understanding of how they work.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
Get away from mixing gases,you need to learn how standard refrigerants work by being able to measure sub-cooling and superheat.
When mixing you have no way to quantify the charge, performance or repeat it even if you some how lucked onto a good blend.with the instraments most have.
Walt please, I understand yes better to do things by the books, but the rest of your statement had nothing to do with this thread. No one here mentioned mixing gases, and plenty of us charge and tune by superheat.
You asked whats my point? as to what does the rest have to do with this thread ,about the same as fictional ideas/recommendations being posted ................not factual ones.
You started off saying pinching the cap wont work, I said it does, have done, and others have now said they have done. You can't learn everything in a book.
Books always tell you how to get it right the first time, and always situationalize. Well not everything always goes perfectly, and sizing of things like captube is not always perfect, so its important to learn how to improve upon a given system.
This is only for R&D and after they estimated the ruff amount using the formula's.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
Cheaper Split systems use a staged cap tube where it goes successively smaller as it nears the evap, So such systems are used but first must be properly calculated for the first two stages leaving just the last stage to be minutely tuned.
Glad there in your hands toster;) Shipping to England 3 times, Singapore and Germany all went well:up:
Just having some issues with Slovenia:(
Whatcha's gonna be running Toaster? Looks like a dual evapped CPU/GPU.
Where are you gonna be hanging the temp probe? I have right at evap exit. With my flow it drops about 2-3C in a sec
yes, it will be a rotary dual gpu unit :)Quote:
Originally Posted by LardArse
the temp probe are at the evap exit. i will test it ;)
Please feel free to post the build in this thread.:up: I hope things go well with you - thanksQuote:
Originally Posted by toaster
I'm glad you are happy Lardy. thank you :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Lardarse