I might end up getting it and trying. Just to feel a little safer, I might end up using this Artic Adhesive to fully secure it.
What do you think?
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I might end up getting it and trying. Just to feel a little safer, I might end up using this Artic Adhesive to fully secure it.
What do you think?
If you want a fan this looks even better.
http://www.enzotechnology.com/slf_1.htm
As you say with WC cards I am OK with passive. Will try the Evercool tomotrrow.
This one?
Is it big enough to cover the middle (main) part of the SB?
Hi,
anyone a Idea how can i bring up my CPU up to 4.5 GHz +
(CPU and NB was Watercooled with Mora Pro 2 and 2 Fan Radiator)
at the moment it runs at 4.3 GHZ with Multi 13
and
Vcore 1.42V
VTT 1.16V
PLL Auto
GTL 1+4 +28mv
GTL 2+3 + 26mv
NB 1.46V
thx and sy for bad english
God how come I didnt notice this!
But just one question, on the first picture it looks like its really tall. Tall enough to make the middle slot useless for Tri-SLI.
How did you make your middle card fit?
Also, is that heatsink good? what are your temps for SB? Is it crooked or angled?
[QUOTE=slim142;3145523]Im tellin you, I dont think there is anybody here able to run 1T. You wont get a huge drop when using 2T, but you gain a lot more stability. Give 1600Mhz 2T a try.
??? I've been running 1T the whole time, I never crash or have any problems.
Computer runs 110% :up::up::up:
Hello there,
Can anybody tell me best bios i am on 704 at the Mo and still getting the old random game crashes:mad:
spec Q6600 @ 3.74
reaper ram at 1150
2x8800gtx
The overclock is 12 hours prime stable nice temps just random freezing in games not system crashes:shrug:
Cheers
Slim, if you need further convincing about the evercool, see mine below:
http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/6...edresiznp3.jpg
Fits fine, and should have clearance from cards - ive used it in SLI setups before and height isnt an issue. The only thing to be aware of is the lug/catch on the white PCI-E slot gets in the way a bit, but u can bend it out the way a little and that sorts it. :)
I tried 1.92v, and I don't see any improvement.... it is already 0.12v above the safety limit and I don't want to go any further.
And it is completely stable at 4037 MHz / 1700 MHz, 10 hours of 3DMark06 + Orthos + Bittorrent and still going. VCore can be reduced to 1.33v too, temp looks much better.
There were some false alarm though, Crysis has antifact and random crash, it turned out to be due to Beta Forceware driver 177.40 and 177.66. Back to WHQL 175.19 and all is well.
I don't know why, seem you guys these Beta driver to solve the SLI issue, even at stock. I don't have those issue, instead it was these beta driver which give me issue.... not only in Crysis, but general performance is bad also.
For Justfire
Heya man, just wondering if you wouldn't mind posting your BIOS specs for your setup. Still tryin' to hit 4ghz+ stable..getting ever so close but it seems this bad boy needs lots of voltage.
Cheers :cool:
P.S. By all means if anyone else with a QX9650 wants to post some 4ghz+ specs, have at it. :D
Perhaps you and I need to meet up for more than PC things ;)
My ride :D
http://i89.photobucket.com/albums/k2...O/DSC00037.jpg
I am also thinking of going down the water cooling route, so all this info is helping me out.
ok bursted! it is the ram. i unlinked it and set it at below 1700 mhz, then i can overclock as far as my cpu / my watercooling / my own nerve can take...
but the question remains... how to take my ram to its spec-ed speed of 2000mhz?
Yeah D-Tek fusion v2 and a full set of ek blocks for the MB.
Put in the new X-FI TITANIUM - Premium PCIE last night, it works in the slot where the ASUS riser card goes. Sound is better than my first gen X-FI xtremegamer. BUT now the computer refuses to stay a sleep, when I get home I've gotta start messing with driver installations again. I had this all worked out with nforce 9.64 and 174.74 but now it's fubared again. So finicky this 790i stuff.
Dont forget to post some pitctures when you get everything done ;)
So hows the pump, rad and reservoir? Did they get mess up because of the corrosion?
I sent it via USPS Priority Mail Thursday July 3 and I got it today Friday 18 via Fedex Ground 3 days. Thats 2 weeks but remember July 4 was in between.
Fedex arrived with my board today ~2 hours ago
First thing, the box looked really skinny so that made me think I got a bare board. Opened the packed and surprise the same board I had sent 2 weeks ago was sent back to me. No accessories only the board.
I have set it up real quick, put it back in my case like it was before connected my old XP (the one I was using with the S2E) and everything came up in 8-bit color. Not even vga mode, it was horrible. Downloaded 177.40 Beta and everything came back right.
Also, I have to mention that the RMA guys killed my CMOS battery!. Now I gotta go buy one because I have to press F1 when I turn on the computer and I cant even test OC because of CMOS Checksum Error lol.
At least the board is working like it should, no problems so far. Will be testing OC and SLI as soon as I get this battery replaced ~2 hours.
I flushed the rad with Acetone for 24 hours. I think she's clean. The pump only had a light coating on it, I used a q-tip and rubbing alcohol to clean it...should be ok I hope.
Worry not there will be pictures but it won't be this weekend, this day is done and I have no package. It'll have to wait until monday.
Good luck with your setup.
I learned that the Fusion block is the worse you can ever use.
I must be a lucky bugger then, been using this mobo for a few months now with a loop on the Fusion block, no corrosion or build up whatsoever. Temps are pretty good so I can't complain. Using Feser 1 Acid Green fluid, gotta say I like the stuff. Both of the loops are still super clean like day 1, & I do check on it regularly to make sure, and so far so good. No corrosion issues to speak of yet (knocks on head aka wood) :yepp:
I hear ya man, always better to be safe than sorry indeed. Good luck with your aquarium build too bud. Just remember to leak test the crap outta everything :):up::up:
As an aside, I dunno if using a thermal adhesive may be the way to go Slim, you never know if you want to pull things off in the future and if that stuff is on there it's permanent me thinks.:shrug:
Of course, I will also use a filter on the leak test to clean my components :up:
And about the adhesive, I wont use it anymore. After I saw Mikes picture with the Evercool, Im definitely buying the Evercool :up: Thanks for the tip :up:
Btw, I just bought another CMOS battery, everything solved now. Using 15.17+177.40 and Im going to leave my PC playing a movie to see how it goes. Right now is ON STOCK.
Well, I will be RMA'ing my board, just submitted an RMA request. I have tried a different CPU, different PSU. The machine powers up for 3-4 seconds and shuts off, LCD poster stays on CPU INIT.
So, now I wait for a response from ASUS. In the mean time, I'll put the ASUS heat pipe back on the board.
Well, mine had to deal with a little arc from a POS USB hub...at least, thats all I can trace it back to. I thought it was the CPU...but apparently not!
Guys give me a hand
I need a Ram kit for ~$200-$300. Preferibly OCZ or Corsair. Needs to be 1600Mhz or higher.
My G.Skill died and I wont buy G.Skill again so I need a good brand ram.
Any suggestions??
http://img247.imageshack.us/img247/6...1p2eqq0.th.jpg
http://img371.imageshack.us/img371/9...ttinht4.th.jpg
The Flex II DDR3-2000's are pretty decent.. but they got some serious gaps between 1800 & 2000, so you'll be searching a tad for a sweetspot there.
Edit: 2x 1GB is the only flavor tho..
My 1600MHz Corsair kit has worked flawlessly at 1800MHz.
http://www.corsair.com/_datasheets/T...-1600C7DHX.pdf
what happened to your G.Skill kit?
Whats about your RMA slim? I am pretty happy with my EVGA mobo ... 450MHz FSB on QX9650 without any issue and 4x 1GB at 1800 24-8-8-8 ... great stable stuff with GTX 280 SLI
I can boot with one stick or both, but once I start windows, I have ~5 mins before they give me BSoD. Both sticks with stock settings with 1.86v (1.92 real).
I thought it was something else, but I ran Memtest86+ in DOS and one stick gives me errors on Test#4 and the other on Test#5.
Third time a kit fails on me from G.Skill. Btw I have D9JNL and I think this are known to overclock really bad even though they are Micron. I have seen on the Xtreme Bandwidth thread that most people are getting D9JNM and D9GTS so I hope I get one of those two ICs on my new kit :up:
At least those are the good news, I left the computer playing 4 movies and when I came back, everything was normal 4th movie was about to end :D (of course SLI enabled)
I dont know if ASUS did the magic, or BIOS 0901 together with 177.40 and 15.17 (Tris from ASUS forums told me to use this) but I think is finally fixed. Now I just need to RMA my RAM and begin overclocking again :cool:
OBR you prefer the EVGA to the Striker2?
For everybody
What is the max voltage for the NB under water? (Safe for 24/7)
Has ASUS turned faced and released a stable board finally? After getting my hands on the Striker Extreme which I have to RMA to Asus this weekend I saw a lot of complainst and people who have RMA's the Striker Exterme (and XFire boards) along with the Striker II boards, that I wonder if I the Striker II Extreme I have not opened yet will be plagued with the same problems?
Leathal
It depends, I dont know if they really fixed my board or if the combination of drivers+BIOS I have solved it, but I believe (want to keep testing more) Im finally free of SLI issues.
IMO, Only buy Striker boards if you are willing to spend time finding the OC spot. My recommendation: Load BIOS defaults and manually imput your RAM voltage ONLY, if you are stable then you are a lucky guy with a good working board. Oc is another story.
My Striker Extreme has to be RMA'd, it wouldn't even post with my Q9450 with bios revision 0902 and after I did get it post with my old C2D 1.8Ghz and download and install the 1504 bios successfully it refuses to post after that, even after I pulled everything out including the battery for 6 hours.
:(
So to me it's really getting the board stable from the time it leaves the manufacture until you install it and turn it on with all the defaults enabled that I am questioning here.
Leathal
There is a sticky on the Striker Extreme section. I remember I thought my board was dead, then after around 3 months with no PC and trying for days to bring it back to life, I followed the first or second example (cant recall) of CPU INIT thread and when I powered my board after 2 hours, it came back to live. Since then, I have leave it how it is, BIOS 1004 and Im NOT planning on upgrading the BIOS or keep overclocking it, trusth me.
Yeap. Not sure were this sticky is that you are refering too but I too pulled the battery, psu, cards, cables, and set the clr cmos jumper to 2&3 and pushed the clr cmos button in... Let it sit for 6 to 8 hours while I slept and reversed everything today to find out nothing had changed.
So I gotta call Asus tomorrow... I hear ther customer support is the :banana::banana::banana::banana:s, hopefully it's not worse than lexmark! :)
Leathal
As an Asus mod, I have to help you and even if I wasnt, I would :up:. I know how you feel, freakin CPU INIT :rolleyes:
This is the thread
http://vip.asus.com/forum/view.aspx?...Language=en-us
And this is what I followed
I tried it 2 times before actually getting it with more stuff than I needed, then I decided to follow the guide and I got my PC to turn on! so FOLLOW AS YOU READ!!!Quote:
1.unplug the computer from the AC
2. unplug from the mobo the ATX12v and the EATXPWR
3.remove the bios battery wait 30 secs {dont put it again)
4. move clrcmos jumper to enable position {meaning jumper in pins 2-3}
and wait 30 secs.
5. press and HOLD the clrcmos switch for 30 secs then relase,{now clrcmos is clring the cmos} you are going to let the switch in tht position for 2 hrs.. this is very important or it wont work
6. After 2 hrs, press the clrcmos switch to turn it off {dont change the clrcmos enable jumer to disable) leave it enable.
7. connect only the next devices to your computer. 1 sata drive, 1 ide drive, 2 ddr2 dimms in blue slots, 1 video card. 1 striker extreme audio card. and 1 ps2 keyboard {usb wont do} and connect all pc fans
8. recheck that nothing expet the hardware mention above is connected.
9.plug the atx12v and the eatxpower connector and pcie aux if needed
10. put in the cmos battery
11. connect your computer to the ac
12. turn on the pc, and after 3 secs, your going to start hiting {del} in your keyboard, not to fast, 1 click per sec. do more and u will disable the keyboard.
13. asumming the computer boots and enter the bios, go directly to your ram configuration and set voltage to memmory specification (ultra important!!) if you dont set correct voltage to your ram u will get cpu init again in next reboot
14. boot and go to asus and download the new bios 1301 i think it is, and flash your bios. recheck memmory voltage has not been changed
Thanks for the link, I actually read that last night on my other computer and followed it closely, with the exception that I gave it 6 to 8 hours instead of 2, when I turned the machine on and pressed or held the DEL key it would not boot at all. The bottom line is if you buy a new motherboard you should not be having to spend more then a could of hours to get it working otherwise it there is a serious flaw in the way it was manufactured and it should be replaced.
Imagine if your car worked this way? The car maker would be bankrupt right now I am sure! :D
Leathal
Hi all,
Above mentioned are two new bios, 0902 and 1004. Where can I find these?
Thanks so much!
******************************
See post below. I didnt catch that they were for SE not SE2, my bad.
Well then you might have a different problem. There are more steps in that thread and more explanation on how to bring it back to live. I recommend you try all of them as they say.
Now Leathal I ask you to please stop the Striker Extreme conversation now because this is seriously going off topic. PM if any questions.
I have BIOS 0901 and will keep this one since I like it a lot.
Specs
Intel Q9450
thermalright ultra 120 extreme
S2E (lol)
G.Skill 2Gbs HZ series RAM (Black heatspreader)
2 8800GT Superclocked
Prelude 7.1
LG Super multi blue
ASUS DRW-2014L1T
Sony floppy
Corsair 750
WD Raptor
Raptor X
Western digital 500gb
Maxtor 500gb
and thats basically it, I also have 5 yate loon fans and my Akasa multi-function panel with thermaltake xpeakers. I will post some pictures of my case soon :up:
Slim, I got these. I will post back with the results.($358.50 after MIR for 4GB DDR3-2000 is not bad at all)
!*&#^!@#^!@#^!@* my package arrived today but guess what!!! the bitspower compression fittings for tygon tubing are so fricken huge they will not fit on the D-Tek fusion, SB or NB ek blocks. the only thing the will fit on is the mosfet blocks. I'm steaming right now, have to check when I get home and see if I have enough spare fitting kicking around the patch it together.
Rant off.
To stay on topic, my 1702 settings are running on air, but it's hot!.
Thanks tek, but I have decided I will RMA my kit and save money for a European company that sells kick-ass memory. I wont buy cheap memory from now on.
OCZ kinda convinced me with the Reaper 4Gb 1600Mhz 7-7-7-20 kit, but I decided to move on.
So whats up with your new S2E? Does it overclock good? Any issues?
More waiting? I really expected to see your system done soon, but I guess I wont.
Any of you able to exceed 1800 MHZ on your memory? It seems that I'm unable to get past about 1825 linked and synced.
Are there any known compatiblity issues with Corsair (2x 2GB @ 1333) TW3X4G1333C9DHX on Striker II? Any special settings required to run it stable at 1333? (A friend of mine recently bought a new rig based on Striker II and he's getting bluescreens)
[QUOTE=slim142;3156088]Thanks tek, but I have decided I will RMA my kit and save money for a European company that sells kick-ass memory. I wont buy cheap memory from now on.
Hey Slim142
try here
http://www.memoryc.com/
it is based in ireland but does ship internationally
i got cellshocks 1866's from there - see my signature
best regards
flanr
[QUOTE=flanr;3156243]Hey thanks! Those cell shock seem really nice.
Any Striker II with an overclocked Quad-Core will limit the memory. Like Tyke said, you are lucky to have 1800mhz+ linked.
Only solution to see if you can run higher linked speeds is to increase the SPP voltage as it gets a hell lot more stressed under high speed conditions.
Im glad to see your at that wall as well, makes me feel like I might be doing somthing right. I'll try unlinking tonight and see what happens. You usually run everest to check memory read/write speed? I dont really know what to do to benchmark RAM, I dont think I would see better 3d scores. I did run Memtest last night for 9 hours and had over 12 passes ( cant remember exact number) with 0 errors 1800 linked synced at 7-7-6-20 1T 2.16 Volts
I feel like things are finally coming together for this board.
Did anybody experience that the Striker II kills/degrades RAM? I just want to know this since Im still thinking what could have degraded my RAM...
Also, can the constant overvolt and drop on vdimm degrade or affect the ram in any way?
I have not noticed anything like that with my Patriot Memory. Have had it for about a year now with this set up and it still tests fine.
Almost done... had enough left over regular fittings to get it together for now.
Plumbing is tricky when you WC the whole board
well that's true, isn't that easy to mount the gpu after plumbing :D
http://sargatanas.gwebspace.de/PC/mm/3.2.08oben2.jpg
I decided to unlink tonight, FSB is at 1800 and my memory is at 2000. Everything is stable 7-7-6-20 1T , but I'm really not noticing a performance difference at all. Where would I see performance gains (or losses) Superpi is exactly the same, Everest memory benchmarks show no difference either.
I use Everest to check memory performance. My experience is that memory at 1800MHz at Cas8 timings is faster than Cas9 at 200MHz, so I think 2000MHz memory is a waste of time until the timings improve. What you really want is a good 4GB 1600MHz kit that will run 1800MHz at Cas7 - I saw a review of this memory that appears to do just that:
http://www.hardwarecanucks.com/forum...it-review.html
As you can see he gets this to over 1800MHz at Cas7, my Corsair kit will only do Cas8 at this speed.
Unfortunately Mushkin memory is pretty rare in the UK.
Now that's what I call an elegant water-cooling solution:
http://www.aqua-computer-systeme.de/...125458b59d18f9
Thats a nice block !
Finally someone with some brains came up on on this this :D
Good way for tri-sli :thumbs:
Now all we need is this for SIIE, wich will be a huge block.
Ooooh and Delrin, off course !!
and ek ofc....
Best is to run 1800 @ Cas 7 or 8 like Tyke said, unless you can run your memory higher than 2000 @ Cas 8.
I know, thats why I hate the overvolt & drop of vdimm. Im going to be getting some good memory from Europe once I save some money and I really wouldnt like it to just die.
If they come up with an universal block, it would be awesome.
Mines should be traveling over the Atlantic or maybe already here :D
Did you guys see bitspower 790i reference solution?
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=195782
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...1&d=1216744971