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Hey guys. Is there any worth in that Uguru utility? I generally dont touch any Bios settings from Windows due to Bios corruption but fro what some people say Uguru does not Corrupt the Bios when tuning from Windows..is this true?
How many of you say that Uguru is a safe program to use to make adjustments in Bios through Winblows?:D
Excellent explanation. Thanks. I thought that it was a fault but then at the manual is just like that.
I don;t know how this count here but this mobo is excellent for editing.
After a brilliant IC7 that is still alive and kicking this small beauty is a beast. I run it at 333 @2997 with absolutely no problem. Who said that B3 are hot. After
a heavy load the temperature didn't go over 45-46 with the stock cooler and a touch of an Artic Silver 5. Excellent board. When you press it is just beginning again.
10 out of 10.
:up:
Anyone done the vdroop here? And who could pass 550+ fsb ?
uguru is the only o/c utility i use now a days with this board. I love it. i have had zero bios corruptions or major errors.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
if i o/c too far with uguru, it freezes windows and when i reboot, it uses the last good settings that were detected on uguru.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
The uGuru windows software is very useful and stable. But it's like anything else, you just need to use some common sense.
I use FanEQ in BIOS to control all fans and make fine tuning adjustments as needed in Windows.
Default is what you've set in BIOS, and then you can use the three User Presets and have different overclocks from there. The preconfigured presets aren't much good.
OCGuru is very handy, but there are limitations. You must have the memory ratio set correctly in BIOS because you can't adjust it in Windows, but you can adjust the External Clock and all voltages. So if you're running Super Pi and it freezes you can bump up the Vcore or Vdimm and try again. Pass Super Pi and bump up the External Clock and voltages if needed.
I've never tried Auto Drive, but it can recall presets based upon what program you run. Watch a DVD and set it to select a lower OC with slower fan speeds. Play a game and set it to select a power User Preset.
Quote:
Originally Posted by shimmishim
COOL>>>> You mean there is actually a propriatary Motherboard Manufactuer software that actually works and works well with out corruption?
Anyone with access to the download link of the BETA BIOS for IP35-E? This one is suppose to fix the double post issue.
TIA,
F
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Yup sure am, sits around 19c idle and mid 30's under load.
hmm I ve never tried the uguru for OCing before, I think I may start. Anybody able to get higher OCs, OCing through uguru then with BIOS?
:D yes!Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
i dunno what other utility you'd use in windows for o/c-ing on this board :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by shimmishim
Rule of thumb I never make any adjustments in Windows. I will have the board Monday apparently I got Duped by NewEgg on my 2nd day shipping which now equates to 4 day:mad: Friggin New Egg they are not half of what they used to be!
Not personally, or yet with the IP35 Pro for that matter. But I've read several posts at Abit Forums to that effect concerning other motherboards that use uGuru.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Viper
I am really looking forward to this Board it will be my first Abit Mobo:D
Seems so. I'll take 4GB at 850Mhz 4-4-4-12 1T at 2.1v vs 2GB at 1000Mhz anyway. I can use the extra memory.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
actually there is a Uguru chip on the board and the Uguru software, after it is installed, makes the chip "COME ALIVE"!:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
actually, if you did not install the software you would see an unknown hardware exclamation in the "Device Manager."
sorry...i wasn't criticizing you...i was trying to express that i think to many people put to much emphasis on orthos or prime 95 for 8, 10 or 12 hours when in reality 99.9% of us will never run a program that will consume 100% cpu usage on all four cores.Quote:
Originally Posted by C-N
one guy made a good point about doing orthos or prime 95 for "12" hours...he thought he was stable but his game would kick back to the desktop after a short period of time running it...so...there are no guarantees with orthos or prime 95 if you can do that for many hours...his fix for the game dropping back to the desktop was to increase the vcore.
that is why i am not so fixed on doing it for many hours...if i get 30 minutes that is good enough for me.;)
Well, I ran Orthos for 6 hours ok, gaming ok, memtest showed memory errors until I backed down from my previous settings of DDR2-970 4-4-4-12 2T 2.2v to DDR2-850 4-4-4-12 1T 2.1vQuote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
So...what does that mean? :shrug:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dredd
it means that you have to tweak every area until you find the sweet spot;)
Is there a reason why I should not get version 7.6 of the Intel Matrix Storage Manager?
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Deta...%2032&lang=eng
Would it be ok for me to use this instead on 7.5? :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
It's OK, 7.6.0.1011 is the latest version:
http://downloadcenter.intel.com/filt...0&submit=Go%21
And has some fixes if you read the Release Notes:
http://downloadmirror.intel.com/13806/ENG/Relnotes.html
Overclock done with IP35-PR0, signature reflects new mobo on order
http://valid.x86-secret.com/show_oc.php?id=230904
http://aycu23.webshots.com/image/231...2815214_rs.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by JPxM0Dz
do you know how it would handle a quad core?
it looks great for a dual core but possibly not very good with a quad.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I havn't tried a Quad as of yet, was going to grab one before I got my E6850 G0, opted for it cuz I wanted to crack 4Ghz + , not easily done with a Quad ;)
I can't seem to install Vista. It says upon install that Windows could not find what it was looking for. I have the hard drives set to IDE at the moment. Do I need to install any drivers before the Vista install?:(
Quote:
Originally Posted by TadehI
are you using the intel controller?
might want to try having the "inf" drivers on a floppy just in case but as far as i know, vista should be able to install when using the "IDE" mode...are you sure your drive is showing up?
The hard drives are on the first and second SATA port. If that means anything. :( SATA DVD drive is on the 4 port.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Yes the drives do show up, and I will try to install the drivers.
Edit: Is it a must to use a floppy or slipstream if I want to install Intel raid drivers? I can't use a USB drive or CD?
are you using two user names?..reason i ask is that i posted my comments to TadehI....
yes, you will need a floppy if you want to make it into a raid array...that is what baffles me...raid, yes you need drivers on a floppy or usb thumb-drive but not for a single IDE install...UNLESS...you are using the Jmicron controller.
oh, oh!..just thought of something...make sure you have disabled the Jmicron controller if you are not using it..it could be interferring with the Intel contoller.
BTW, what bios are you using?
The Fact of the matter with D.F.I/DFI-STREET is simple Travis Hill is a complete D!CK Wad and A$$hole and a arrogant Jerk Off and his work isn't that good to begin with! The only thing that made DFI-STREET good was the end user participation and it was dedicated excluseivly to D.F.I boards but Travis went out of his way to ruin it for people if they didn't have their tongue up his ass and agree with every thing that he said because intelectually he cannot compete with people that are not above 16-22 in short he's a A$$HOLE:yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by AstroCreep
Quote:
Originally Posted by JPxM0Dz
curious, does your 4+ Ghz capable E6850 do orthos for 30 minutes or so...i don't believe in power orthos or prime 95 for 6, 8 or 12 hours...i want to know if you can do 5, 10, 20 or 30 minutes!:D
OH...sounds like you should be in this XS thread area with this: Speak FreelyQuote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
did you know of "Rgone" over in DFI-Street?
Where are my settings Ace? Cmon dude help a guy out and get me started. I just read through this entire thread and as it seems you really don't get any kind of referrence to some settings in Bios until around page 32...WTF? I am still not certain of crucial things that I need to know and that important I have a safe reference point seeing how I have $2000.00 or better tied up just in my storage...help a brother out please!:clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: :clap: thats my little cheering section for you:rofl:
Sorry I have two PC's and only one keyboard. I had to use my brother's laptop. :( I forgot to change the login. :shakes:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Sorry
I will try to run a RAID setup with the two drives. I will also make sure that I did disable the Jmicron controller. (I thought I did already)
I am using the release BIOS right now. :( I will try the release 11 BIOS soon. (tonight maybe)
Thanks. :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Yes I know Robert (R-Gone) quite well and I respect him very much and Robert is a very nice man which I have nothing but love and respect for and I have absolutely no problem with Robert "never did" but lets just say I went through allot of work lining up Silverstone for Travis and David Hammock and they screwed me (which is putting it nicely!):down:
yes...upgrade the bios before trying again
Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
Rgone and i were buds until i thought he was lying or, at least, defending another guy with a doctored bench...once i find out that someone is lying to me, i want nothing to do with that person...we communicated regularly by email with about 5 others...NO MORE!
what will be your specs?Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
what overclock do you want to reach?
need those answers before you get anything;)
I used that tool on the first page to make my flash drive bootable. :) (cool tool)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Should I just extract the id:11 BIOS onto the the flash drive?
Do I need to use the steps that you wrote on page 16? (about boot block and /py /sn /WB /cd /cp /cc /CKS)
Thanks :)
My specs are listed in sig allready! A possible explanation of what not to set to high and some pointers lets say starting off at 3.1-3.2ghz and a little bit of info on say these settings will do you until about this high above that you need to focus on this that the other thing . I mean I will learn as I go and I don't want you to O.C my rig for me and all just some pointers so I do not do any damage to Raid Controller and what not. I ask you because you have a Q6600 and a Areca Card:)
I want to see what this Q6600 has to give seeing how ultimately I will keep it at 3.4ghz but I do want to play with my new stuff I am sure you understand:D
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
yes, put the bios on the USB drive along with the booting files.
you can use the "runme.bat" and then edit: "Abitfae.bat" with those switches...important to include all those switches...it doesn't matter if you use caps or lower case for any of the commands, or, the order of switches...make sure you transfer those "Bat" files along with "awdflash.exe" onto the USB thumb-drive.
AND..NO OVERCLOCKING...also, set your memory voltage appropriately..if it needs 2.1v...set that before flashing
May I just ask what are the booting file? Is it just the .bat files? Sorry to be noob on you. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
if you used the program to make your USB thumb-drive as a bootable drive, then, the booting files should already be on there...now...all you add is the two "bat".."awdflash.exe" and the "BIN" file...that's it!
Cool!Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Thank you. :) I will hopefully post back with luck. :eek:
EDIT: But is it ok if the "bootfile" folder is empty?
NVM: Even though the drive has no folders in it, it still uses up 314kb. Something is in there.:rofl:
you are to fearful about overclocking and what you will do to the board or cpu...Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
1st thing you do, is my heatpipe mod.
2nd, start conservatively with the overclock..take it up to around 350 FSB without any adjustment of the voltages...from there, you are on your own...i can not tell you what to set because your board and hardware are going to be different than mine...good luck!:up:
EDIT: is that a TEC cooler you have!?..if so, get rid of it!...worthless with a quad core!...go air or water.
LOL...YES!...you poor soull!:D..learning on the go!:)Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
May I ask what to use as the boot order? It just wont boot from the flash drive. :( (USB-FDD and USB-ZIP don't work. :p: ) Would it be floppy? None seem obvious to me. :shakes:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
the USB drive is considered or looked upon as a regular drive...you will need to go into the bios and select it to the top of the list for booting priority!
this is besides you selecting the "hard drive" as the top priority for booting...default has the "floppy" as 1st choice!
good night!:)
Good night and thank you for all the great help. :clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
No I am not fearful of Overclocking actually I am quite good at it! I just have not owned a Abit Board before and some settings are not familliar to me on the IP35 Intel Bios because I have only used two Intel board since C2D D.F.I Infinity (POS) and the EVGA 680I another POS!
Actually the TEC cooler aint too bad @3.2ghz Q6600 I peak around 64-66c Full swing 8hrs on Prime which I would say is pretty good for my Wimpy TEC:ROTF:
I plan on getting a really good water system from Newls1 when I have the money..cough ...cough...that is unless you wish to further the cause:D
Observation...
It works fine, OC is the same as previous version but "Wacks Temps"... :confused: Makes you feel like you have some kind of "Super Cooling".
Regards-
0.13V from indicated BIOS value to uGuru sensor whilst under load.Quote:
Originally Posted by Heidfirst
Yeah I thought the same thing about the +12V rail. Tried on three PSU's:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
1> Silverstone ST85F (70A +12V)
2> Hiper Type-M 720W (brand new; 56A)
3> Corsair 620W (also brand new; 50A)
All give identical results.
Sorry, I didn't really make myself clear in the post.Quote:
i tell you right now..you are running to tight of memory settings for DDR-1100...you might think of boosting your Vdimm to 2.4v to see if that helps...OR...raise your timing to 5-5-5 with 2.2v...performance is barely going to change by jumping to 5-5-5.
My system goes from completely stable @ 1100 4-4-4 2.2V (4xMemTest in windows, MemTest86+ in "dos" etc) to unstable @ 533 5-5-5 2.2V or anything in-between and then back again to stable again for no particular reason. Many times I've come back in the morning to find it sitting @ BSOD, reboot once and it will say that registry is corrupt; power off system, wait 30 seconds, power it back on, and it'll happily run MemTest and boot windows etc. +1 confused. I've tried the BIOS resetting etc that someone mentioned over @ forums.uabit but to no avail.
Currently running 24/7 @ 1028 4-4-4-9 2.25V. Well trying to run 24/7, it BSOD's every now and then for fun :)
Unfortunately I don't have a 40mm fan on hand, i'll have to look into that :(
Someone later in the thread was asking if hot PWMs held back anyones OC, the answer is "YES". PWM's are "rated" at 135C, fine, but then the mobo sensor must be next to a PWM that is adequately connected to the HS, and another one isn't. My board is consistent, Primes happily up to ~84~85C PWM and BSOD/restart.
t
No worries & I totally get what you are saying as I have had many rigs that run Prime/Orthos then fall over in games or corrupt windows days later but for me personally I run my rig hard 24/7 for pleasure/gaming & I run a small business from home on it so I run every test there is before calling my rig stable.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Anyway forget stability for now what I was getting at earlier was I too can bench DDR1200 just like viper with this board @ 400 x 9 but my point is its slower in PI, Sandra, Everest etc etc than DDR1080 450 x 8 so as good as DDR1200 sounds its a no brainer for me.
I am all up for finding more power/speed from this board just the same as everyone else here but when I see other users struggling to match what they saw here at xtreme & failing blaming there hardware trying to get there rig stable enough to open notepad when the original posters rig was only 14seconds/PI 1M stable in the first place I feel obliged to comment particularly when there is no useable benefit as well.
=====
My basic point from 4-5 pages ago still stand BIOS 12_b02 is not as stable & doesn't offer any performance gain over official 11 & I ask anyone to chip in with there comments after all thats the whole point of a BETA BIOS (work out issues before release)
CN :)
I need to know if you set the variable resister to 700 BEFORE the two wires are soldered to the board or did you set the resister to 700 AFTER the two wires are soldered to the boardQuote:
Originally Posted by shimmishim
Thanks........
it doesn't matter.Quote:
Originally Posted by alpha0ne
if you have a 1K VR then set it to 1K and then tweak it down... you won't know what resistance your set to but you will see your voltage go up in the bios.
i set to around 700 before i soldered it on so that I'd know that i didn't have to turn it too much before I was in the range I needed.
What made my mod a little more difficult was that i was using a 10K VR since I didn't have a 1K VR. Else I would have set it to 1K and just tweaked it down.
If you have droop at idle, you will notice your voltage go up as you push the resistance down.
Pictures of vdrop mod anybody?:)
Always do it before. For my mod I ended up having to lower my resistance a boatload before my voltage went were I wanted it. I'll post pictures of my mods laterQuote:
Originally Posted by alpha0ne
Look forward to it:DQuote:
I'll post pictures of my mods later
RLM
are you referring to the latest beta bios...if so, try the official 11 bios (2nd release)...it will give you more accurate temp reading...i bounce my temps off from coretemp 095...in idle conditions, coretemp should be about 10-11C higher than the reading from Uguru...i think the beta was making it at about 14-15C higher.Quote:
Originally Posted by pcdoc1
you can do it either way....but if you have a 10K variable resistor then it behooves to preset to around 700 ohms before doing the soldering.Quote:
Originally Posted by alpha0ne
droop mod here
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...6&postcount=39
picture of hard mod that i did
http://www.bleedinedge.com/forum/sho...4&postcount=14
Ok just a quick update, I have managed to get my L724A760 GO Quad 6600 stable at 3.6Ghz, ran Prime 95 for 10 hours and Orothos for an hour just to see if it would run.
I found that my problem was in fact vdroop, I am at 1.5v bios, 1.45 idle and 1.41 load, a .09 vdroop under load geesh lol.
I wouldnt think 1.45v at idle would "hurt" the cpu for 24/7 use but as it has been said before no one really knows, I am running on water but its an Exos2 so its not all that great, my cores were hitting a high of 67c at load and I am at 39, 34,34,39 at idle so I think I should be ok.
I have a feeling that if I can get the vdroop fixed and get better cooling this chip could do 3.8Ghz easy enough, but I dont have the guts to solder on this motherboard, I can solder wires well enough but after an hour of so of soldering on an old slot A to 370 slocket I have come to understand that I SUCK at soldering anything but wires.
you need to read your vcore right off from the board...i know the drop is not that bad...uguru does fluctuate downward below the actual voltage...whatever vcore uguru peaks (tops off) to in idle conditions that is the actual vcore going to your processor...there is a picture in this thread that show's where to read the vcore...its basicaly right next to the PWM heatsink, in towards the cpu socket...if you were standing over the board (facing to the backside or port side of it), you would see a couple of tiny resistors to the right of the PWM and going towards the cpu socket...one of those is where you would read your vcore.Quote:
Originally Posted by taemun
i bet you are switching FSB to memory ratios...right?...that is why one frequency is stable and the other is not...i cannot get my 1066 strap to be stable unless i back down the FSB about 20 Mhz from what i work it at using the 1333 Mhz strap....now...a few are doing very well at the 1066 strap since they have the right memory for the board...i believe crucial ballistic PC8500 stuff works superbly on this board with the 1066 strap.Quote:
My system goes from completely stable @ 1100 4-4-4 2.2V (4xMemTest in windows, MemTest86+ in "dos" etc) to unstable @ 533 5-5-5 2.2V or anything in-between and then back again to stable again for no particular reason.
Currently running 24/7 @ 1028 4-4-4-9 2.25V. Well trying to run 24/7, it BSOD's every now and then for fun :)
Well, like I said everything inside windows worked. Memtest stressing memory directly showed some errors. I've tried everything and I suppose all I can do is leave it where it's at because I am using all 4 slots and it's not really slow by any means.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Quote:
Originally Posted by TadehI
Zero format the HDD, then install Vista. Note that Vista will not work with FAT32 partition.
tell me the bios settings that have you unsettled...i will and others can address those.Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
that's it...the TEC can not handle a higher overclock with a quad especially a B3...i tried one already....my Ultra X beat it out...who would of thunk it!;)Quote:
Actually the TEC cooler aint too bad @3.2ghz Q6600 I peak around 64-66c Full swing 8hrs on Prime which I would say is pretty good for my Wimpy TEC:ROTF:
sorry buddy, no donations at this time.;)Quote:
I plan on getting a really good water system from Newls1 when I have the money..cough ...cough...that is unless you wish to further the cause:D
You could solder the "legs" of a small 0.4" x 0.4" 25-turn VR directly to the board. Fry's has this item ($3 for a pack of two).Quote:
Originally Posted by shimmishim
:up: .Off to try it.Quote:
Originally Posted by shimmishim
Ok here I go,
personal mosfet heatsink , will test it tomorrow to a friend as I don't have my cpu yet.
http://pix.nofrag.com/9/a/7/617b46a7...d3d2f5b1c6.png
http://pix.nofrag.com/7/8/f/fbf12a85...27aa70bf34.png
http://pix.nofrag.com/e/0/1/4a859950...02fe29740f.png
http://pix.nofrag.com/8/8/7/c926deae...a660ac0611.png
http://pix.nofrag.com/f/d/a/a935129a...f31b006a0c.png
http://pix.nofrag.com/c/7/6/274b2e1c...a1147ca9dc.png
heh guys, i was under the impression that keeping with a 9x multi is quicker then using a 8x or 7x?
NOW...that is XTREME!:p:Quote:
Originally Posted by tomati
it appears that this board scales on performance as you escalate the FSB upwards using the 1333 memory strap...now...if you stay at 9x, you need to try the "1066" strap to maximize your performance...i can't really get there myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by The Viper
whoa tomati, is that a Thermalright HR05?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
do you know at what FSB the board switches to 1333 strap with a 9x multi?
Ill have to give 8x a try if its offereing quicker performance in benchmarking
it is based on FSB to memory ratios..this will help:Quote:
Originally Posted by The Viper
noctua nc-u6 + pure copper base home made for mosfetQuote:
Originally Posted by emoners
hr-05 sli for P35
enzotech CNB-S1L for southbridge
Ultra 120 extreme for cpu
Did you braze the base on there or how did you attach the copper base to the noctua
How did you fuse the copper base plate to the existing Copper base of the Thermalright?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
so ideally I want to lower the multi and try to stay on the 1066 divider for faster performance?
I'm not that skilled, just used chromerics thermattach T411, http://www.sidewindercomputers.com/chtht4.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by MADMAX22
It's a noctua NC-U6 and use T411 thermal pad, as it seems to fix really strong I was scared to used it on mosfet so reused the silicon pad from the original heatpipe heatsinkQuote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
Ace,Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I got the flash drive to work, but when the prompt "A:\>" comes up I can't write anything. I thought it was my USB keyboard, but I used a second keyboard that had a AT/PS2 adapter and that still did not work. :(
if you set the booting up correctly...you should see a "C" prompt because the USB is considerd like a hard drive versus a floppy drive...so...you have to set "Hard Drive" as your first booting priority (Advanced Bios Features)...and then go into the "Hard Disk Boot Priority" to move your USB drive up to the top selection.Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
I did that; however it does not say straight forward whether I want to move the USB drive up. I have the two hard drives and "Other boot able devices." I made that one the first one in the "Hard Disk Boot Priority." Still nothing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
my USB flash drive is listed by name in my BIOS. I put that above my HDDs and then the BIOS will use it to startup.Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
Yeah, I would expect it to show the drives name. It only says "Other Bootable Add-In devices."Quote:
Originally Posted by Dredd
I will try a different flash drive.
Edit: Well I got it to show "C:\>" but I can't get past that.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
type in "DIR" at the C: prompt to see the files on the USB drive...OR...just type in "RUNME.BAT" and then hit enter....if none of this works then you have not set up your USB drive correctly or you did not transfer the flashing files on to the root of the drive.
Am I suppose to see the characters as I type? :p: Because I can't see what I am typing. (If I am at all) :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
Edit:
I am doing exactly what the first post says to do. :cool:
http://forum.uabit.com/showthread.php?t=121953
I am having a sudden problem. My CPU Fan isn't going more than 1260 RPM having a result when the CPU goes up to 75 to start beeping etc.
I thought first that this was due to Uguru but at bios metering it's the same.
Any thoughts on this will be appreciated.
your keyboard isn't working..is it an USB keyboard?...if so, make it a PS/2 keyboard.Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
EDIT:...go into the bios, "Integrated Peripherals" and change the USB keyboard from "OS" to "BIOS"
Try the fan on a different header.Quote:
Originally Posted by sverkalo
Do you know that I went to Best Buy, Radio Shack, and CompUSA. None of them had a simple USB - PS2 adapter. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Ace-a-Rue
I guess I will have to get a 5 dollar keyboard. :D
Thanks but all other headres have 3 pins while CPU's has 4. Is that a problem?
I keep a PS2 Keyboard around Just for Flashing
Is your fan a 4 pin as well? My CPU fan is only a 3 pin and I have no problems.Quote:
Originally Posted by sverkalo
Yeah I got it to work with Ace's quick edit. :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Esau
How do I know if it is flashed to the right version now? I can't find an info page in the BIOS, and the post screen is too fast for me. :(
Hit the pause button.Quote:
Originally Posted by Knight
I closed my PC from the PSU and reopen it and it goes up to 3000 and more again. Maybe it wasn't fit right who knows. I hope I won't see it again.:confused:
My version is 1.06.69.Quote:
Originally Posted by new-b
Thanks, it worked lol. :)
I'm just now wonder how to set up the raid array. Do I have to install the OS first?
Here's my vmod, nothing special, I was in a rush and didn't have any hot glue :D
http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/6862/dsc01896ay3.jpg
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/9782/dsc01898cl1.jpg
http://img250.imageshack.us/img250/6015/dsc01899to7.jpg
Hit... Pause/Break
Quote:
Originally Posted by MikalCarbine
Very nice pictures, at least we can see clearly what you did/\/\
I know the guide called for a 1kohm resister but can you use a 10kohm one instead. It should give finer control right or am I backwards. Anyways as long as you get the resistance adjusted right then it shouldnt really matter right.
Just wondering since I got the 10k ones but no 1k. Thanks
oh man, are you green behind the ears!:DQuote:
Originally Posted by Knight
open the abit manual to page 3-2 and read how to enable the raid controller...don't forget to put the raid drivers on your USB drive because you will need them to install the OS.