Were you using Blue Feser ?
Whats the rest of the loop ?
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Were you using Blue Feser ?
Whats the rest of the loop ?
Yes i am. UV blue. But i haven't used the uv lights yet.
Well, its the GTZ cpu cooler, Koolance block for the 4870x2, the org rad and pump from the swiftech watercooling kitt 2x120mm. One Black Ice Xtreme 2 X-Flow Rad 2x120mm.
That's it..
This is how it look after bit of water and a toothbrush. And a needle and paper. Is it good enough, or should i leave it in coke for the night. 7-8 hours.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DSCF0114-3.jpg
Lol, it looks fine as-is.
SWEEET:clap: I'll check the koolance block tomorrow. Hope it's the sam as the GTZ :up:
i dont see hoow a company could release a product that destroys your loop. have you heard of product testing? i wonder what feser would do if we emailed these photos to them.
lol. increase the price of course.
i have 3 bottles of black coolant sitting at home waiting for my build.
seriously considering selling it.
They would likely write back and cuss and call us all idiots, that didn't know how to properly use their product. :ROTF: That seems to be their SOP. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Chumbucket843
Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Agreed, wouldn't see them do anything about this really..
I just set up a loop with Feser One red. I had a 975 @4Ghz and RIIE chipset/mofset blocks in a loop with a Feser X 480 and a DDC pump with res top. That was with water.
The current setup is same 975 @ 4Ghz, only by itself on the loop with the 480 and pump with the Feser One fluid. CPU temps are the same.....which I find odd since it no longer has the chipset/mofset in the loop.
Going to drain the system this weekend and flush/clean everything and just go back to distilled with anticorrosion/biocide. This Feser fluid is absolute garbage. Great radiators, but crap fluid.
This is how the koolance block looked.
Moment of truth.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DSCF0117-1.jpg
The inside just after i opend it..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...DSCF0123-1.jpg
A couple og things i found, one is a piece from one of the square's in the block. The other is something?? And there was threads of some sort stuck to them. Don't know how they got there.. The square shapes in the block are razor sharp, so things like that will get caught up...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...r/DSCF0126.jpg
Well... I just ordered some Feser UV dye... I'm hoping it won't clog up too badly. What do you recommend for minimum clogging? I was thinking only putting a little bit of dye so it doesn't get any where near saturated.
I'm only going to be running an Apogee GT/MCW 60/EK 780i-NB so its nothing high restriction.
BTW, that koolance doesn't look that bad Imo. Or was the blue stuff clogged around the sides of the metal towers?
Gave up my dreams of running Feser One Blue premix after seeing this.
Destilled water and silver coil here I come.
coloured tubing to the rescue.
colored tubing with distilled and silver seems to be best bet. If you want the colored fluid, seems you better with premix. Dye likes to break apart quicker than premix it seems.Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkCow
I know this is kinda an old thread but here's my additions!
My Delta V3 after ~6+ months use
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...lockDamage.jpg
The blocks and rads were all flushed before hand and showed no initial signs until temps went up
http://i207.photobucket.com/albums/b...atorDamage.jpg
This is my MCR320 Rad which unfortunately had some feser spillage on it whilst it was kept in storage. Some of the damage happend where the feser leaked from the barbs during initial testing and bubbled the paint first time round, but you can see, it's pretty badly bubbled. The same has happend to my feser rad where it leaked from the bleed screw the paint has just come straight off, not bubbled.
You can also see how badly my barb threads have filled with feser gunk. Yes, it's gunk, non stained. I took a tooth pick round it and it came off in a one'r. Same with nearly all of my barbs.
~Bex
PS. Lets not even talk about the clumps of gunk that came out my rads when I flushed em... pretty gross. Just clumps of dye and flakes where it had dried in.
Wow, I thought that was water droplets or condensation on the outside of the rad until I read your comments. And the Delrin top looks like someone filled it with strawberry jam :shakes:.
So did I until I bushed my hand over and they didn't disapear :(
~Bex
So my question to you Bex: what did you mix that coolant with or try and clean it up with? The damage you are showing to that radiator is from something caustic and it would physically eat your tubing as well as all of your O-rings if the coolant was that harsh.
Feser One plugging your block isn't a surprise really as that pin matrix will act like a filter for your loop and catch anything loose in the coolant including pigment.
The barbs from that rad were a write off. Forget trying to use them. The bubbles appeared before I washed the rad. I thought it was just dried in feser because it was pinky/red. Washed it down then realised it wasn't just lumpy marks but the paint was bubbled. The bubbling is only where my feser leaked down the side of the rad so thaty's why I'm sure it's nothing else. You don't even want to see the hosing I through out!
The rads were all flushed out with boiling distilled water with a little bit of white vinegar and re-flushed several times with just boiling distilled water. Rads were wiped down with a damp cloth.
~Bex
My turn now...
A bottle of Feser One Blue UV used in 12/2008 and now it has this inside:
http://img132.imageshack.us/img132/8452/img1009n.jpg
Look at the outside bottom :
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/6704/img1010ho.jpg
Look at the inside bottom :
http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/5563/img1019o.jpg
Now my 3/8 Feser UV Clear tubes :
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/5401/img1014i.jpg
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/6609/img1017.jpg
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/1606/img1018a.jpg
Very nice for a system assembled in 12/2008 ! :down:
Solution .... new tube (this time UV Black) + destilled water + silver killcoil :
http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/3456/img1032d.jpg
http://img185.imageshack.us/img185/1911/img1034.jpg
http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/9953/imgci.jpg
yeah, my blue goo (Feser1) also started to form up those blue crystals in my loop. though noting seamed to be caked on.
as for coke. that stuff is powerful. my dad used some to get an old engine working after it froze up. poured a can in each cylinder and let it soak overnight, fired up the next day after cleaning the pistons out a little, but at least it became possible to tear it down after that.
I have these blue left overs in my rad and on the magnet part of the pump after using Feser One Blue. What would be the best solution to get that off before putting up a new loop?
I did a miniloop with just a ddc with a xspc restop and the rad, and the water is getting blue:mad:
Interesting thread which will go on forever, why? Because every case is different and we have not tested to see what the gunk is!
Yes solids will precipitate out of any solution, so dye's of any sort will even come out of solution and end up somewhere in your loop. They will precipitate out at the hottest point in your loop so keeping your loops delta T low and flow high at your various blocks offers the best protection against solids falling out of solution.
This whole issue is water cooling 101 which is a very complex subject and without testing all we are left with is conjecture. I work in the Petrochemical industry and one of our biggest issue's is problems with water cooling ! It is a science in of itself, and this thread is full of hypotheses which must be tested in order to come up with an answer for each case where a problem occurs.
In SNiiPE_DoGG's case it would appear as though multiple issue's have conspired to cause the mess we see. But without testing it is impossible to figure out the sequence of events that led to his end problem.
Having worked with a few similar issue's in demin water systems I offer the following, for what it is worth.
1. Using Demin, distilled or a combination of both (high purity water) does not mean that biological growth will not happen. The water will soon pick up impurities in the loop as well there is O2.
2. Bugs' can and will growth quite nicely under various conditions and do NOT need light in order to grow.
3. One type of bacteria will grow nicely at x temp, while another will not but grows nicely at y temp. and they will look much different when they grow. Some look like jelly, others will form strands, etc. One biocide will work on one bug under certain conditions but not on another under the same conditions.
4. Copper sulfate is a good all round bug killer, but you need to maintain a certain level of it in your loop to be effective. Over time it is used up and off course we don't test our loops for residual so as to maintain our protection.
I'll go out on a limb and say that a lot of the problems I've seen with computer water loops is due to bug growth. In SNiiPE_DoGG's case that gelatin looking material looks to be algae. Why did it happen? To put it simply the conditions where correct for the growth of bacteria and he didn't have enough biocide to stop it. Could various fluids,etc. have contributed to the growth, yes of course as they act as a food for the bugs.
How do we stop bug growth ? Minimize food sources by using only distilled+ water, ensuring you loop is clean at install and ensuring you have a residual of bug killer in your loop. You need to change your water on a regular basis as it will pick up impurities from all the components (tubing,metal,plastics) of the loop.
Johnmark has a good point... What if that stuff isn't 100% Feser's fault.
jVIDIA
I had used the Feser One Blue from January till June `09. Fortunately, my loop was clean. Right now, I use Feser Heat Carrier + Feser UV dye+ Feser Corrosion Blocker. Will see what`s inside my loop in 3 weeks when I add my new EK VGA wb.