I got a bit of aggression I want to relieve, just have not found the right outlet.
Even if I don't a GT/GTX/Fuzion
cause well its theraputic.
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I got a bit of aggression I want to relieve, just have not found the right outlet.
Even if I don't a GT/GTX/Fuzion
cause well its theraputic.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0556.jpg
You take that ruber ring that comes with the kit:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0558.jpg
replace it with the one thats preassembled on the block.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0570.jpg
and then clamp that little mofo as really tight on your board so it warps like this. :P
But make sure you use a blackplate like this:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0571.jpg
Heh... my little guide to you guys on how to do a BOW mod. :P
But i would seriously wait for nikhsub. According to iany also, this might be a one shot deal. Meaning either, once you take it off, your board and block mounting maybe sqewed forever??? or your stuck with bow mounted blocks.
As for me, i go though new boards and blocks almost every year, so i want THE best possible cooling on water. Maybe if i was going back to TEC's which i will soon, i wouldnt attempt a bow mounting.
But then again, i have another A1 board thats already preassembled with a 6500 and preinsulated. Its just waiting for another QX to roll around that got sold.
Soooooooooooooooooooo.... For now, yeah i may damage my board, but i definitely deserve bragging rights for now... :D
I love my bowed GTX and will never go back. As far as I am concerned, given its industry experience and expertise, Swiftech's word is good enough for me. Unlike many others, they have an actual reputation at stake.
so what is it iany? is the board screwed forever once you take off the block?
or is the board forever restricted to bow mounting?
I dont want to to risk removing my block now that its PERFECTLY, well in my eyes perfectly, mounted. :D
Your motherboard seems seriously bowed even with a back plate?
I think the T bar shape of the Thermaltake back plate doesn't do much.
Where as a thermalright four armed one would create even pressure from the centre of the plate meaning it wouldn't bow as much?
you know thats what i thought too....
But looking at all the other pictures ive seen, and all the different backplates people have been using. I think i have the least amount of bow out of all the people ive seen.
I didnt put any pressure on the end. I let the board naturally climb up to show the bow. So my bow is realtively small in comparision with someone else. But This is a price one has to pay for bowing. And the price maybe expensive, but very worth it in my eyes.
Naw.. the mobo is fine. Your block is bowed in eternity. You will see it especially when you try to put on the small O-ring, but why would you ever want to do that?
If it ain't broke, you don't fix. I'm buying another Asus to mount permanently, and continue messing with this one.
think it's too much tight for the main...don't you think?
well, thats how tight the manual said i needed it for a good bow mounting.
Also if you read the start of the thread, as well as other o ring questions, i think my bow is less then what most people get.
As i said, this is definitely not a newbie block. On a complex lvl of mounting like this, if i was a newbie, id be scared out of my pants. The 680i board aint cheap!!
But ive broken Opty's 175's Pentium's D and other things, that if its "worth" the risk. Then i'll take it. And most cases, it has like now. Im loving the fact that i have a 3.6ghz E6600 which loads a tad above 40C, and idles at 22C now.
Honestly, what more could i ask for on a non sub ambient cooling system??
ahahahaha.. as i have said... if you look at all the other people with successful bow mounting, i think my bend is small. And if i had used swiftech's stock screws, the bend would of been a lot worse.
This is why i asked gabe, he should replace the stock screws with ones a tad bit longer for people that want to bow mount with backplate.
And this TT backplate is friggin indestructible. I tried to bend it on whim, tried to DRILL though the spare i had out of boredom, and it was almost unphased. If you have one, you'll completely understand my statement.
:P
Its not completely unbendable, but does take a bit of effort, and I think at that point you are on teh verge of breaking something FAR more fragile.
I have a TTBT and have the mounting plates, they are nice and I use one on the back of the Expert that I have my G5 mounted on.
I will more then likely use it when I mount the G5 on the kentsfield and 680I.
do u think that 1 laing D5 is powerful enough for that block?....is in that block used AL?....does i cause any effect with cooper?...
Who will be running this block with just water + biocide?
If they run it for a while with no problems, and Scotts tests show it to be the top performing on a E6600 then I will buy in a second.
Do G1/4 barbs fit this?
Yes it is G1/4"
And yes i think a single D5 would be fine with this pump provided your NOT running a bling bling Full Cover GFX card block.
However, i would like to see the results of this block with different flows. :P
Kinda curious to see if it is my FC blocks causing all this friggin restriction on my loop, or if it is indeed that this block increases its performance by adding more flow.
I take it, it probably would have more restriction than the normal GT being as the block is more low profile?
So not as much space for water to flow through? Just a guess though.
I wish it had been available when I ordered my block, I might have gotten one.
I'm willing to send out a custom polycarbonate reservoir to the first person who gets it to corrode in their loop while using proper precautions (EG, the people who say that it will fall apart and galvanically eat everything), as even musical instrument plating will last 40-50 years in many circumstances just fine. I should know, I've owned more than one instrument that old, with perfectly fine, thick plating. I don't personally care flying donut one what Swiftech's loss or gain is on this one, but I have a LOT of experience with plated metals (have worked as a brass instrument repairman) and if it's THAT level of plating, my Dremel and a diamond tip would spend 20+ minutes getting enough aluminum to damage anything.
That said, I wish I had one, it's pretty awesome looking, with the performance to boot...
so do i need more flow than the 315GPH the D5 can give?? it seems like many of u suggest that has more restriction than other blocks
i had the fortune to work with military grade stuff. And believe me, if gabe asures me its military grade, then thats good enough for me.
Also ive done plenty of reading about zinc, im was also a biochem major in college so i took my share of phsical chem, and inorganic chem, so if the plating was done correctly, the zinc will act as a electron bank.
Plenty of these statements were discussed eariler.
And yes im sure galavinc corrosion will occur but, im sure by the time it gets noticible, the block will be sitting on my desk as a collection, and hopefully i'll get a silver block as a replacement.
BTW: gabe any news on a apogeeGTX in silver :P
And i know im gonna get flamed for this statement, but honestly, tihs is the best non sub ambient block ive used so far. If you know of a better block near the same price range... I know cathars G7 is better, but find it for me sub 250.. :stick:
Just wish it came with factory recomended backplate and screws. Maybe it might reduce my bow a little.