That's insane.
(And can we please not quote big pictures?).
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That's insane.
(And can we please not quote big pictures?).
Quote:
Originally Posted by TekZen
WTH!!!:confused: Can you explain everything you just said cause I have no idea what your talking about or referring to.
I thought is was a revision, later version but I could be wrong.Quote:
Originally Posted by little_scrapper
Glass is the closest to perfectly flat item we can use to back the sandpaper. If that was your question. The other items he was referring to are (I believe) sharpening stones for knives. I lapped my Tuniq Tower120 and I was temped to pull out my sharpening stone, but I fought the urge. :slobber: Looking back, a grinder may have been appropriate. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by little_scrapper
I suggest a great deal of patience (and maybe multiple sheets of 400 grit paper) before lapping a Tuniq Tower120. Those suckers are top heavy, so you have to go really slow, and it's not easy on the fingers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by little_scrapper
Weird enough, there are still Rev. A and Rev. B Ninjas on the market (at least here in Portugal). This one appears to be a Rev. B, though, because Rev. A had the socket 478 clamps embedded (I should know, I have one of those).Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveb2012
Or we might just have found out the reason why some Ninjas are more efficient than others. It may have to do with that whole bottom/two halves bottom...
Cheers.
Miguel
I lapped a E6600 and I fear that the result after lapping is worse. I am waiting for a new motherboard, so I was not able to see the temperature difference now.
Before lapping :
http://falguieres.perso.cegetel.net/avant%20poncage.JPG
After lapping :
http://falguieres.perso.cegetel.net/apres%20poncage.JPG
After lapping, the IHS center is more in contact with the cooler base but the contact surface area seems to have decreased. So, what will the CPU temperature be now ? Increase, decrase ?
Thanks.
have you checked your coolers base for flatness at all?Quote:
Originally Posted by overclock
No, since I will use a Mach II GT : even if it is not flat, I won't be able to lap it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Spawne32
IM really bad at lapping, i lapped my old 6600 and my temps went up, i had to re-lap it to get my temps back down to where they were :/
You need to lapp the CPU onto the sandpaper. Not the sandpaper onto the CPU.Quote:
Originally Posted by GAR
(if that helps)>
Float glass is about the flattest glass you can get to use as the base for sandpaper lapping/honing/flattening. It is used all the time for woodworking (which I do on the side). "ScarySharp" or "Scary Sharp" is a method of dry honing using sandpaper as opposed to things like whetstones or waterstones to hone and sharpen chisels, plane irons.Quote:
Originally Posted by little_scrapper
Glass, (like waterblocks and heatsinks) is not uniformely flat, and it varies. float glass is made by "floating" molten glas ingredients on a bed of molten tin. It fuses the impurities out of the glass and makes it EXTREMELY flat on both sides, and about 4mm thick.
If you are going to the trouble of lapping, it seems that you would want to start off with the flattest surface to lap against.
Here is a link to Garrett Wade tools and the float glass they offer. http://www.garrettwade.com/jump.jsp?...&itemID=102841
Is that what you were asking about?
Sorry Taffer. Missed seeing you had already responded. You are correct. It is funny how different hobbies/disciplines crossover here. Methods in woodworking and salt water aquarium flow have good methods that can be employed with liquid cooling. Makes me wonder what other tidbits of knowlege are floating around from other things that could apply.
Check this link out I just found from another post talking about limiting HD vibration and noise: http://www.silentpcreview.com/article8-page2.html
Sure you can, it does take a slightly different approach. I've done it on an old Mach I with good results.Quote:
Originally Posted by overclock
Quote:
Originally Posted by TekZen
Yes. Thank you, I had no clue what he was referring to. I just used my end table. My end tables cost around $500 a piece and has a nice 1" thick slab of tempered glass on it. The wife didnt really appreciate me slapping down some sandpaper on it and grinding away. :slapass: hehe but screw her, I paid for them :D
lol
Yikes! Brave man to incite his wife. Watch out for a domestic goddess. She might just decide to "help you out" by polishing your mobo with furniture wax, or shine up all that nice copper with some cleaner while the box is running. ;)
No problem TekZen...I was correct, but your answer was more correct and way better than mine :) I did not know about the glass making process you mentioned and the next time I lap...I'l consider that glass. How much difference did it make for you using that glass vs other glass? I plan on lapping again, and besides, after lapping a Tuniq Tower120, a CPU should be a piece of cake :slap: :brick::brick::brick:Quote:
Originally Posted by TekZen
wow that is shiny!
Honestly, I am not sure. Lapping on my woodworking setup (flattened granite block and norton waterstones) did a pretty good job. Going ScarySharp on the blocks has too many variables (float glass, sandpaper, copper v. aluminum) that I cannot nail down if using float glass made much of a difference at all. Honestly, I don't know that it would be a huge deal, as glass is pretty flat anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Taffer
I could try to do some lapping experimenting, but probably is not worth it. I actually just got in a WorkSharp sharpening system. I am going to try it on my sinks, though you need a LIGHT touch on mechanical systems.
http://www.garrettwade.com/text/items/WorkSharp2.html
:off:Quote:
Originally Posted by TekZen
Wow, that's an amazing tool. Thanks for the link. I don't do woodworking, but it's always facinated me. I've done minor stuff when I was helping my dad or working around the house such as door jams or slotting contours to make things fit. I do however think my dad and several people at work would be greatly interested in this! My supervisor, our network administrator, does some very finely detailed work, such as cutting out rose shapes to put into hand made jewelery boxes, or actual petals to mount on top.
Back on topic :) I used a kit (http://www.easypckits.com/) to lap my heatsink and it worked great. I had to redo the last 2 sheets of fine sandpaper because the polished side was so smooth that the copper that it ground off scarred the bottom again. :slap: So I had to rinse the paper a few times to get that final shine and not scratch it up. I'll see if my girlfriend can bring her camera and cable so I can upload a good picture of it for this post. Like you said, a "light touch", but I can read the fine print :fact: in the reflection and I've not cheated by polishing it with a polish! :hehe: :rofl: :down: I did have to use the 400/600/800 sheets a few times and literally use every square inch of each sheet to get down to a fairly flat surface. The Tuniq Tower120 is a top notch air cooler, but the copper footing was horrible. I would have used a grinder like that to start off with if I had realized just how badly it was off, and that's no joke!
Yep, it will flatten it danged quick. I had to LMAO when I first saw the machine though. One of its biggest selling points is that you rest your chisels or plane irons against...A HEATSINK! I mean, did Cathar design this thing, or what?!
That's a terrible idea, sure the surface might be flat but there is no way to ensure that you're grinding evenly, flat and crooked are going to do more harm then good.Quote:
Originally Posted by TekZen
Sharpening wood tools is nowhere near as exact as working with metal that has to be joined with other metal. I'm still waiting to see someone who really wants to see the benefits of really lapped parts, and that would take something like this
http://rcgcncblocks.com/SERVICES.htm
LOL...you honestly believe that their is no way to ensure a correct positioning of a piece of metal (be it heatsink, plane iron, chisel,...) truly perpendicular to the grinding surface of a honing/lapping machine? Or woodworking does not have high tolerance expectations for tools? :nono: Either you are misinformed or the driver of the turnip truck you fell off of is looking for you. Why do you think they would even offer float glass in the first place?! :slap: You have obviously never seen a Holtey Hand Plane (hats off to the Brits for these little treasures).Quote:
Originally Posted by falqon
I totally agree with you on your observation that a machinist shop with correct tools would be able to do an even better job than this honing system. Of course, if we are going to play the lapping "one-upsmanship" game, check out http://www.irconnect.com/noc/press/p....mhtml?d=87394 You would not even need thermal paste at this point!! Capilliary action would probably hold them on! ;)
Apologies all for this becoming so off topic. I would rather see some more pics of highly lapped chips!:woot:
This thread is really making me want to lap my E6400. Can anyone point me in the direction of a good lapping guide?
omg, here is a lapping guide...
-buy glass(flat )
-buy sandpaper (600-1500 grit)
-tape the sandpaper to the glass
-sand the cpu on the sandpaper/glass till the IHS is flat and smooth
WOAH that was hard, my brain hurts now :slobber: