I see what you're saying, overall system speed goes to DFI.Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
I see what you're saying, overall system speed goes to DFI.Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
For some time I was having some disk problems in my system so I was running everything at stock for about 3 months.
Now that everything is stable again I want to kick up the speed but for some reason my multiplier won't stick. It keeps running at 8x no matter what I set it to in BIOS. Normally I would run it at 11x409 but as soon as I press Y to save and exit bios it shuts down and then restarts at 8x...
All other bios settings seems to be saved except the multi... :shrug:
reflash the bios might be corruptQuote:
Originally Posted by Hamilton
Strange... After leaving the PC off for the night It started up with the 11x multi I had previously saved yesterday eventhough yesterday it would only boot with 8x... :shrug:
Now my board totally watercooled :bounce:
http://img160.imageshack.us/img160/5308/img4746yg3.jpg
i hope this will help me get stable at fsb515+ :rolleyes:
All right now im back to clocking the board or at least going to try it tonight. I'm cutting down what I had in my system prior to this so things have changed a little. I only have 2 sticks of ram now, as well I will have only 1 video card (other is removed from my system)
I know I have a 4.5Ghz in her, I've gotten up to ~4.3Ghz before on another board so she's got some room to breath, now im just trying to figure out all the GTL ref voltages and such. Ram I shouldn't have an issue with since timings are relatively loose and should have plenty of room left in them. Oh and still have the 0603 bios on here if not mistaken (not at home right now).
Filled this out as much as I could, really I've only changed a few options, CPU features, the OC window, a few timing ones and the few voltages, rest is untouched/default.
I know my CPU and NB voltage will be going up, but the CPU VTT and GTL CPU/NB im not sure how to figure out except with GTL using .63 multiplier on the CPU VTT and NB voltages right? What does the CPU VTT control exactly, and is there a relationship to any other voltage I should be using with it?Code:CPU Feature
- Thermal Management Control: Enabled
- PPM(EIST) Mode: Disabled
- Limit CPUID MaxVal: Disabled
- CIE Function: Disabled
- Excecute Disable Bit: Enabled
- Virtualization Technology: Enabled
- Core Multi-Processing: Enabled
Exit Setup Shutdown: Mode 2
Shutdown after AC Loss: Disabled
CLOCK VCO divider: Auto
CPU Clock Ratio Unlock: Enabled
CPU Clock Ratio: 9
- Target CPU Clock:
CPU Clock: 450
Boot Up Clock:
DRAM Speed: ? (Ram is at 900Mhz though)
- Target DRAM Speed:
PCIE Clock: 100mhz
PCIE Slot Config: 1X 1X
CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum: Disabled
SATA Spread Spectrum: Disabled
Voltage Settings
CPU VID Control: 1.875
CPU VID Special Add Limit: Disabled
CPU VID Special Add: Auto
DRAM Voltage Control: 2.10V
SB Core/CPU PLL Voltage: 1.510V
NB Core Voltage: 1.3875V
CPU VTT Voltage: 1.260V
Vcore Droop Control: Enabled
Clockgen Voltage Control: 3.45V
GTL+ Buffers Strength: Strong
Host Slew Rate: Weak
MCH RON Offset Value: 00
MCH RTT Offset Value: 00
MCH Slew Rate Offset Value: 00
MCH VREF 1 Value: 00
MCH VREF 2 Value: 00
MCH VREF 3 Value: 80
GTL REF Voltage Control: Disabled
x CPU GTL 1/3 REF Volt:
x CPU GTL 0/2 REF Volt:
x North Bridge GTL REF Volt:
DRAM Timing
- Enhance Data transmitting: Normal
- Enhance Addressing: Normal
- T2 Dispatch: Enabled
DRAM CLK Driving Strength:
DRAM Data Driving Strength:
Ch1 DLL Default Skew Model:
Ch2 DLL Default Skew Model:
Fine Delay Step Degree:
Ch1 Clock Crossing Setting: Auto
- DIMM 1 Clock fine delay: Current
- DIMM 2 Clock fine delay: Current
- Ch 1 Command fine delay: Current
- Ch 1 Control fine delay: Current
Ch2 Clock Crossing Setting: Auto
- DIMM 3 Clock fine delay: Current
- DIMM 4 Clock fine delay: Current
- Ch 2 Command fine delay: Current
- Ch 2 Control fine delay: Current
Ch1Ch2 CommonClock Setting: Auto
Ch1 RDCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch1 WRCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch1 Command to CS Delay: Auto
Ch2 RDCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch2 WRCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch2 Command to CS Delay: Auto
CAS Latency Time (tCL):5
RAS# to CAS# Delay (tRCD):5
RAS# Precharge (tRP):5
Precharge Delay (tRAS):15
All Precharge to Act: Auto
REF to ACT Delay (tRFC): Auto
Performance LVL (Read Delay) (tRD): Auto
Read delay phase adjust: Enter
Ch1 Read delay phase (4~0)
- Channel 1 Phase 0 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 1 Phase 1 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 1 Phase 2 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 1 Phase 3 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 1 Phase 4 Pull-In: Auto
Ch2 Read delay phase (4~0)
- Channel 2 Phase 0 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 1 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 2 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 3 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 4 Pull-In: Auto
MCH ODT Latency: Auto
Write to PRE Delay (tWR):
Rank Write to Read (tWTR):
ACT to ACT Delay (tRRD):
Read to Write Delay (tRDWR):
Ranks Write to Write (tWRWR):
Ranks Read to Read (tRDRD):
Ranks Write to Read (tWRRD):
Read CAS# Precharge (tRTP):
ALL PRE to Refresh:
If im thinking of this right with my current settings it would be...
GTL REF Voltage Control: Enabled
x CPU GTL 1/3 REF Volt: 79
x CPU GTL 0/2 REF Volt: 79
x North Bridge GTL REF Volt: 87
But im guessing i should be raising up my CPU VTT so these 2 numbers are close together?
deathman
raise your nb to 1.45v
and you gtls are too high
Yeah thats no problem with that... on the NB. Going to try aiming for 475-480FSB currently then move upward from there.Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
Should I be raising my CPU VTT? And how are my GTL's too high? Which ones and why. I've been trying to check guides out and what others have done but this is one thing im not getting, along with majority of memory settings/timing stuff but not worried about memory currently.
roll back your bios use 310 i'd only use newer bios if i had an x2 cardQuote:
Originally Posted by deathman20
you can do 500fsb with gtl on auto
then play with gtls to lower your volts
you should be good with 1.2v vtt ti'll 500fsb
Well noticed that my VTT was only 1.1V so bumped that up to 1.2V.Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
As for clock getting it going at 475x9 right now so far so good with 1.25V bios no special voltages that I know of but CPU-z reads 1.296V.
As for older bios, I can't find the 310's anywhere, I see the 314's but no 310's. As for my bios its actually the 1002 bios. Guess forgot after my bios flash incident that I got a new bios chip and never reflashed down with it.
Thank you sir... finally getting it faster.
use the 314 its goodQuote:
Originally Posted by deathman20
I did find the 603 bios last night and got that going, forgot there was a beta section on the bios page :dammit:Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
Well what ever I did last night a reboot fubared it up.. stock boots fine and gotta play with it alot more to figure out what the hell just happened to stable clocks even at 400Mhz FSB. Only thing that I can think of is I accidently set a memory timing wrong (way to low) and it screwed something up but im not sure (set something that was 15 to 5) and tried doing a few boots at it, but of course all it did was reboot the PC.
603 is the last bios I tried last night, otherwise I did play with the 314 and 725's. No luck, maybe I'll have better luck going back to my 1002's.
As for Dram ratio's what should be the better one to use? The 333/667 be the best or the 400/800 ratio.
Wish I had more time in the day to work on it.
the best strap is 333/800 it requires less volts for higher clocks
you gotta find the bios that likes you cpu lol but to be honest the newest bioses are crap
older bioses overclock better;)
and dfi gotta take its head out of their asses and support 45nm cpus properly on the x38-48
u boxed my x38 just cause it didnt play nice with my e8600
just saw the bios page use the ut602 or the lt 603 bioses they are the best
i tried several bioses also, and didn't notice why the older one would be better. maybe it's better in some tuning details but not in overall.
so i am on 1002 too, just for future compatibility with ati x2 cards.
also one thing i saw - last bios like gtls and some other settings on auto much more, it seems it less demanding regarding settings.
i dont know so much zsamz. i agree that earlyer bios can be better & it is very cpu dependent, but the newer bios is not crap at all.Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
i didnt like the new bios when i first tryed it, i even changed back myself soon after trying.
since i changed from my e6750 to my e8500 ive gotten used to it & much prefur it now. my only gripe is how the mch now drinks voltage at tighter pionts compaired to the older bios's.
@ deathman20, here's my 4.5ghz setting ive done over at the dfi club forum... http://csd.dficlub.org/forum/showpos...5&postcount=14
i know the mch voltage seems high but thats what it needs & to be honest the vtt was slightly low at those settings. vtt is now more towards 1.2v to be better stable.
also ive turned off the gtl since adding the xtra vtt. u can ignore the vref's ive set as their now standard too & seem better like that.
regards
deadman's :)
if you use the ut-p35 you will know whyQuote:
Originally Posted by deadman'sclick
the x38 shoulda been better but the ut-p35 spanks it
may someone tell, what is normal system temp?
my is 50 idle and 63 under load, with a very little overclock
http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/720...pimage2ju1.png
is it ok or my pwm cooling wrong?
what is your ambient temp, and that cpu temp is meaningless u need the cores temp from everest or real temp
ambient is 26C, water is 31.9C
i tried areas around mosfets by the touch, they are really very hot
in idle cpu and nb temp 35, system temp still 50
i've found my screenshot on previous page, system temp is just 43C there :shrug:
do u have a back plate, if not the board will boq and the pwm will get vary hot
and for watter that is horrid temps
zanzabar, what is your system temp on load/idle?
backplate for cpu, yes i have it
i wanted make backplate for pwm also, but it seems imposible because of details on the back side
board isn't bended, and i've tighten the srews on the block firmly
on my black ops i have a load of 46 right now and idle of 20 with an 12c ambient and my NB loads at 38 idles at 33 (both the same as with the dfi x38 lt that i used to use) and the pwm on my dfi was 45 load 40c idle (with stock air, +paste) and i use 1.6V NB and about 1.5V on the cpu with 3.8GHZ that i use on both, and we have simmilar pumps and blocks but i have a smaller rad
what paste did u use on the PWM and did u get the PWM block or the PWM and cpl block, becouse the cpl block will destroy your cooling
and take your mcw30 stick it on the NB and throw that EK out (or for sale section) its to restrictive and cooling the NB, then SB dosnt do anything with cooling its 15W of HDD controller
even with 1.6V on the cpu i couldent get the pwm over 55c in the summer with a 30c ambient
here is pwm block
http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/329...8681td1.th.jpg
this is pwm and cpl block, but i know that cpls do not need cooling, and didn't apply any thermotape. u may see a few mm gap between cpls and block. so block has contacts only with those 8 little squares. paste is mx-2.
cpu and nb temp are ok for me, and sb is quite hot with passive cooling. even jmicron controller is hot :)
well, so 40-50C is normal temp for pwm
obviously smth went wrong with pwm cooling, but what.
there are wasnt any bendings on the motherboard, and block sits firmly. maybe thermopaste? mx-2 is quite liquid paste
mx-2 is what i use and its the best non damaging paste that ive found, for the pwm u just get a little paste over the tip then stick it on and pull it off. and try loosing the block a little so its only finger tight
and if ur SB got hot i think that u are doing somehting wrong on every intel board that ive had the SB was cool to the touch
hm, on every board with ich9r sb was quite hot, even without overclock.
maybe i applied paste wrong, it was first time i ise mx-2
and i made a thick layer of it