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Hey Flux, good work, i have a question....
Do the wires stick up through holes? I have a PCB and 2 pumps coming, but wanted to get a second pcb, and 2 dead pumps, giving me 4 pumps.
I see that the white pcb has holes, but not 12 holes. Do the wires just kind of reach up and over to reach the contact?
I just folded them over from the outside of the board. The holes are just for the multilayer board so it can make contact with the other layers.
the wires are just long eneff so be careful not to break them.
Got the pcb in today. Ready to start.
couple questions:
Where do the LED's go?
What is this little white piece?
Attachment 124188
Yoy see the 2 holes above the DCC on the board ?
Thats ware the led's go . There are 4 sets of holes .
As for the white thing , mine never came with that .
So I have no idea what it is .
so, just stick the ends on top of those holes, put them through them? Does it matter which hole the short end goes through?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fluxcore
Oh, what does the Pin29, vsp and vref do?
got both pumps resurected. I ran into an issue. When I installed the pot on one pump, fired it up, the pump doesn't spin. I looked into the pump (had xspx rest top installed so I could see it), the impeller is just going back and forth. It is clicking, but not spinning.
Before I installed the pot, it spun well. I desoldered it, took it apart, ordered a second PCB.
I wonder if I didn't damage the connection to the controller when I cut the bridge. Maybe it got wet and damaged the motor? Anyone?
Also, does anyone have any idea where these LED's go?
Why you dont ask DIYINHK? Probably you need to know the led polarity(i think short leg is -)i see you have from 2 holes in your 4 corners...you have 4 leds right?The white thing is resistors.
Sorry for pulling up an old thread.
I have This DDC pump:
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...504_100647.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...504_100635.jpg
http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i6...504_100657.jpg
Does anyone know if the New white PCB kit will work with it? i would very much like to bring life back to the poor thing.
Why not?Do it!:up:
yeah bro either the sanyo or the toshiba will work
Typically when the click-click shifting impeller event happens, it's due to one or more of the coil leads not making good contact or became broken. As for the POT, that could be culprit too. Check both.Quote:
Originally Posted by Slave1974
Speaking of bumps, anyone know where to buy a cheap DDC? I can't find them for under MSRP of a new one, even for DDC-1s. Ebay has failed me.
Kayin weve been getting them from various sites other than the bay. How ever we've only had limited success with these PCBs, 50/50. Mahem i getting to old to solder any more lol.
I suggest PMing the man who posted directly above your post. :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by Kayin
If you know of a pump maverick, you will find all of the DDC-1T pumps available, new, with the 50,000+ run hour life fully intact for about $55 less than retail. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Kayin
So I fitted the White PCb to a Brown/Orange Impellor DDC pump
It worked right away, soldering was very simple.
But its loud, very loud with this BitsPower Minitank i have fitted.
I have a 50k and a 100k Pot on order and i will be fitting it.
The Pot should be connected to the VSP and Vref points on the PCB in the correct way, Once they are connected you need to cut the tiny trace that runs between these two pads on the PCB.
The Pot should then set the speed of the pump and reduce any noise -- Saying all that tho makes it sound like i have done it when infact i havent yet :D
Yeah, I fixed three of these. When I severed the bridge, the pump stopped working. I still have two of them, but now I won't use them. They are just too loud!!
Fixed up my dead DDC1 with one of his Sanyo PCBs. Ran into a couple of hiccups along the way, the most important of which is that the wires weren't long enough for the new PCB on my pump. Its one of bmaverick's so YMMV on that. Didn't like how bright the LEDs were so I left em off. Still well worth the $10 to bring back a dead pump.
Yes, for only a few dollars, a little handwork along with a little time, getting a DDC 10W to a full 18W sure beats the cost of a new MCP35X any day. Besides, WC started out as a modder's hobby. Today, people want plug-n-play. Only the modder's can state, I built this myself.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyuusei
:up:
They don't sell the PCBs on eBay anymore unfortunately. But I was told that DIYINHK will have a website here sometime in the near future.
Hoping the website works for them.Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat
Mine tends to be so-so since I'm not a web page development person. I have plenty of MCP350 DDC-1T non-functional PCB types if anyone wants to try the mod. Just send me a PM back. The DIYINHK PCB Sanyo board works on these.
http://bmaverickddcpumps.wordpress.com
DIYINHK PCBs are awesome. I think I managed to get the last one with Toshiba chipset 1-2 months ago. I fixed my burned koolance pmp-400 (DDC 3.25) and now it is better than new.
i need a valid link where i can buy the ddc repair kit?
There is no more on sale on ebay
So does DIYHNK have website or new thread talking about their plans yet?Quote:
Originally Posted by lowfat