Id like to try this mod on my own 285 but the temps worry me
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Id like to try this mod on my own 285 but the temps worry me
Nope, its not you NapalmV5.. I have a 1.34 load with 1/2/3/4/11/12 and penciled resistor...
Dont be shy if you are using silver ink.. seems you need a bunch... I am using the conductive paint that comes with the rear window defogger kit... Its not as easy or clean, but works like a charm as far as increasing voltage is concerned...
congratz! your the first one @ 1.3v+ other than me
:toast:
Okay, I will try to clean up the area around the resistor. The lead dust gets around and is probably spreading here or there. When the resistor is at 770 (no pencil) at boot the volts are not at 1.26. As I understand it from the write up, the bridging alone should give you roughly 1.26 volts....and that is not the case for me.
I suck. lol.
if silver ink doesnt get you 1.26 after several attempts then its time to try diff conductive paint/s
im not saying anyone sucks @ this.. just gotta keep @ it till you get increased vgpu
I'm using soldered leads for the bridging. I ditch ink last night...and there was no change.
For penciling, I'm using a mechanical pencil, I'm not sure what type of lead is in it but I do know that when testing with a MM I am getting 250 or so Ohms. But, I believe that I need to clean the area up around that resistor...lead particles could be touching other components.
I wanted to reiterate my question about the max safe voltage for the 285, what I'm wondering is, since voltage basically just increases temperature, would just keeping the temps down be a safeguard against card death, or is running 1.3+ volts damaging in other ways? I'm sorry I'm really uneducated about volt modding and electronics in general.
also, for the pencil mod - what type of pencil should we be using? I have several 2hb pencils
well 2HB should work...but man let me tell you, I'm having a hell of a time...almost on 3 hours so far and the best I've gotten is 450 ohm...the mechanical pencil I was using worked great, got me down to 250 ohm in no time...however the pencil mod didn't seem to be working for me. Possibly because there was more lead dust form the mechanical pencil spreading to different components around the resistor. I found the 2HB pencil must more forgiving, much easier and cleaner to use, however I'm not having much success with it.
For me....the Vdiff mod is picky. I switched back to the mechanical pencil and in about 2 mins I had it back down to 290 Ohms....however....after setting it back up I measured volts and I found that there was little to no effect. Its like the Vdiff mod didn't work at all....but before...it did seem to work...blah....back and fourth...I'll give it a try again, very strange.
Okay, I'll be getting my EVGA SSC tomorrow and I'll try it in it as well. I want you to know that I have been doing these type of mods for 3 years now with cards going as far back as a 7800GTX. I'm no rookie, I just want this mod to work so badly I can taste it. My current card is water cooled so I know I will get great clocks if I could push 1.36v!!!
Have you figured out if the FTW is the same hardware wise as the SSC? It has 0.03v more than the SSC that has to come from somewhere. If the hardware (bridges/vdiff resistance etc) is identical on both cards, what is causing the higher voltages on the FTW? Tried flashing the SSC with the FTW bios to see if there is an increase?
well I tied the pencil mod, and I guess I'm either missing something or did not do it right, because my resistance did not go down at all, no matter how much I did it or how carefully or anything. Resistance was at like 760 no matter what I did. At one point it went down to like 730, and then after a few more strokes, it went up to 760. wtf?? I'm supposed to be penciling the middle of the resistor, right? In between the two points that you touch with the MM? I tired doing light strokes, I tried doing rough strokes, it did not do anything. I dunno. The fact that I have to take my card again and reapply TIM each time is a PITA as well.
to make you feel better: evga ftw @ 1.29v load unmodded
if 1.3v is ok with evga than upper 1.3v is alright with me
@ anyone: if you worry about such voltage maybe modding/overclocking your card is not the best idea
just simple #2 pencil - idk how many times ive stated this (#2 HB not good)
reapply TIM ? you gotta be kidding..
like ive said before you guys are making it very hard on yourselves :shrug:
ive done the hard part/done my best to make the mods as easy as possible for you guys
idk what more i can do/say to make it easier
Well, to get to that resistor I do have to take the cooler off the card, and that means putting on TIM again after separating the core from the heatsink. Just saying. Well I might try a regular #2 pencil later on. Thanks again for your help.
edit: also how did you confirm that the FTW bios has a 1.29 load voltage? WHen viewing the bios in nibitor it has the same values as a vanilla bios. Or is there something else going on?
Tried to bench the vanilla 285 at with a SSC clocks and the gain in 3dmarks06 is about 450~500.. is my Q6600 3.2Ghz a big bottle neck for this card?
Think im going to have to try this since im sitting at under 70C Loaded with 65% fan speed. More voltage + more clocks looks like a prime example that my card needs. IS there enough solder on the card to add the leads to cross the bridges or do I need to add some? Trying to figure out if I need to nab some from the parents place, but then again not sure if my Hot/Cold solder pen thingy will work for this.
What tools do you guys use to flash the FTW edition on the cards? Asking since I'd like to give that a shot too if thats going to help OC my core more.
As posted earlier my default vGPU is @ 1.12 - 1.13 , a bit far from the 1.16 default.
I bridged #2 only and im now getting 1.19v , still a little far from the 1.23 stated my vMEM reads 2.10 though at stock though.
so 1/2/3/4/5/11 is 1.26 vGPU, while 1/2/3/4/11/12 is 1.26vGPU + 2.15vmem right?
I used ink btw, and gave it 5mins to cure with some airflow
edit
the added voltages it didnt do anything to my shader clocks still limited at 1566 ( DoW2 shows green texture glitches past 1566) while Furmark/Ati tool/rthdribl and warhead seems to be fine, should i continue or is this a sing of a bad clocker card?
In some cases the card does not automatically revert back to 2d mode, the idle temp is really really huge.. at 63-65c vs 48-50
Well I got my EVGA SSC I bridged 4 and 12 and penciled the resistor down to 280ohm and it turned out the same as before. I am 100% positive the bridges are perfect and I use a 4B artists graphite pencil and have a 2B and
6B as backup. I first used conductive ink for the bridging and then switched to thinly tinned wire that has very clearly adheard to the pads on top and bottom of #4 and #12. Anyway it's a no go for me and I'm starting to lose hope.:confused: Sorry man I totally believe it's working for you but it's seems that even with your extreamly straight forward instructions quite a few of us are having issues with this one.:shrug:
I got it to work on the first try though lol
I did the pencil mod using an 8b pencil and the lowest I could get the resistance was around 330. voltage at load went up to 1.30-1.31 from 1.28. However this got me virtually no increase in clocks. My max core went up only 10 mhz and then cod4 started freezing until I removed all overclocks even though it was stable at my previous max clocks the day before. Weird.
So i did 1/2/3/4/11/12 , now im only getting 1.20 vGPU and 2.11 vMEM. this is a vanilla Palit GTX285,so i think this mod is a no go for me.
the superstitious 3Dm*rk06 is not so reliable on gt200 series.
i've got 17000+ on my old 8800GTS g92@vmod 890/2200/1080
but also bout 17000+ on gtx285@vmod 780/1700/1460
but real time game play 285 get much smoother than gts.
to NapalmV5
i actually slam a 500vr few days ago ...but dun really push the vGPU...bro, do you have any idea how much this card can take? not so serious ...24/7 capable ...
on water now load temp at 1.25vGPU(solder bridged 1/2/3/4/11/12) = 50C