Can anyone tell me what case that is?Quote:
Originally Posted by calvin
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Can anyone tell me what case that is?Quote:
Originally Posted by calvin
akasa, i thinkQuote:
Originally Posted by Mankz_91
Chenbro SR107Quote:
Originally Posted by bluep3ace
As you can see on the first picture, it is hidden. The problem is that the hole is a bit short, so it covers some of the rad. Not much, but enough to make it "not perfect".Quote:
Originally Posted by matt100
Which Rad r u using ?? n thats a Stacker 810 right ?? n where did u place the Rad, can u post some more pics of the rad placement ??Quote:
Originally Posted by terminator_no2
Awesome work man, really liked the mods n everything.. way to go Terminator :toast:
ah ddc tank top, harder to bleed air out, and vortex issue.
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by matt100
No, it's a second one!
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/foru...opic.php?t=757
Thanks man!Quote:
Originally Posted by Solarfall
It's a deionized water with uv dye from here:
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/cata...roducts_id=234
(orange) and nothing else.
All blocks are copper so no worries about corrosion.
I will post rig photos to stacker slacker "the best case ever!!!"
Thank you very much!Quote:
Originally Posted by ANP !!!
Radiators are 2 x Black Ice GT stealth 240 one at the front and one at the top of the case!
Check this link for more information about watercooling system
and more photos:
http://www.watercoolinguk.co.uk/foru...opic.php?t=757
I guess I'll have to keep it running for a few days with the res cap open then. Right?Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
Open or closed, it doesn't make a difference. Once the water level in your reservoir drops low, the pump will start sucking in the air again and round it goes. You'll have to put a sponge in if you have that problem or keep it completely filled, which is near impossible.
NEvolution: if you could remove that tank top, much better for you.
btw are you planning to close your side panel? if so where would you route your tubing.
I plan on cutting one of the horizontal PCI supports so the tubing can go through the top PCI slot plus the extra space from the support.
So are you saying that I should remove the tank top and just use the Alphacool top?
Would I need to run a T-Line since I don't have a res/water tank anymore?
ah so don't forget to file/sand the edges or put some rubber edge trims/hole gromets so as not to damage tubing.
btw do you have some pics of your cpu block's inner workings?
This is the only pic that I know of that shows the insides.
http://www.rigshowcase.com/img/60DjEY4/10220.jpg
Edit:
Would it be a good idea to move the inlet barb that goes into the water tank to go directly into the Alphacool Top? So as to reduce the turbulance/vortex. (While still keeping the water tank on as a reservoir.)
As in, moving it from the top position to the currently unoccupied location.
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/1479/cimg0443ix0.jpg
there would be no point in moving inlet while retaining top tank.
Quote:
Originally Posted by NEvolution
hmm... i disagree. I've see these tops used before and as NEvolution points out, the small size and design create a lot of turbulence and is quite a headache to bleed completely.Quote:
Originally Posted by septim
Leaving the top off results in sloshing water that splashes out.
I think moving the inlet barb into the inlet of the pump is not a bad idea.
the reservoir would then act more like a t-line and not be subject to direct flow thereby reducing turbulence / sloshing.
*edit: Cool block design btw
btw - NEvolution, by looking at your blocks you obviously have the skills and tools...
why don't you drill out two holes above your video card slot on your case and flip your radiator so the barbs point towards your case?
you would drastically reduce the amount of tubing and you'd then also be able to actually put a side panel on.
That's exactly what I was thinking. I have gone through with it and I now have absolutely no bubbles and stream of air bubbles.Quote:
Originally Posted by stormshadow
Actually I plan on cutting the metal PCI support bar on top the video card so that the tubing can go through there.Quote:
Originally Posted by stormshadow
If that doesn't work well, I guess I'll try drilling a hole where you suggested.
By the way, the block is handmade by FstFrddy from the forums.
Here is his website if you'd like some more info on it. Stinger Waterblocks
There have been a few threads about his blocks and they're very nice quality.
awesome. glad it worked out. that's a great solution that i'll keep in mind to keep tubing and parts to a minimum...Quote:
Originally Posted by NEvolution
v1.0 deceased. VRegs crushed by a not-so-well mounted cooling block. RIP.
I had to "rework" this TT Armor quite a bit to fit my "vision" inside (and outside :P)
Apart from the obvious differences with the stock one (top-front USBs, bulgin switches, custom delrin top, magnets) there's quite a bit of filing, nibbling, removing and shuffling involved :D
Once you start installing things in places where they are not supposed to be, everything seems to get in the way, even the left reinforcement bar and the PSU support bracket, which had to be modified and moved to fit the pump/res assembly ^^
v1.1:
Diverse front views:
Unfortunately not the best pics in the world.
http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/4953/frontnkdwk1.jpg http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/3134/frontopnti2.jpg http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/3118/frontclsc3.jpg http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/8294/itlivesbt8.jpg
Front USB, magnets and switches detail:
I Don't particularly like the top placement of the USBs in the stock TT Armor. And the tendency of the "doors" to open by themselves http://forum.overclock3d.net/oc3d_gf...es/cussing.gifhttp://forum.overclock3d.net/oc3d_gf...es/cussing.gifhttp://forum.overclock3d.net/oc3d_gf...es/cussing.gifhttp://forum.overclock3d.net/oc3d_gf...es/cussing.gifes me off big time, hence the visible 1.5kg magnets.
Finally, using a whole 5 1/4 bay just for the power/reset switch wasn't my cup of tea.
http://img75.imageshack.us/img75/6535/detlusbyp3.jpg http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/2559/detlswthc5.jpg
Custom delrin top:
Even with positive air pressure too much dust/debris was entering the enclosure from the top. Besides, the stock design didn't look very good once I removed the plastic cover to fit the reservoir and the top USB/Firewire/Audio connectors were gone.
Delrin came to the rescue ^^. Aluminium 6mm spacers were used in order to leave a gap for the hot air to escape. They are barely noticeable in the picture, but the bolts are SS316 countersunk hex, which I think look gorgeous :p I suppose not to everyone's taste, but certainly to mine.
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/9892/detltoprq8.jpg
Side view:
Welcome to my cable/tube routing nightmare ^^. Mind you, before the advent of SATA optical units was even worse. Not a tear was shed when I said goodbye to the IDE cable :D
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/4755/opnsidemr0.jpg
Detail of the MB area:
http://img67.imageshack.us/img67/7170/intdet1uu9.jpg
Detail of the pump/res:
http://img239.imageshack.us/img239/8721/pumpresbe4.jpg
And finally... Case Closed :p
http://img510.imageshack.us/img510/9015/asssideuf0.jpg
Hope you enjoyed the little tour. Or at least that you don't regard it as a waste of bandwidth ^^.
BONUS CONTENT:
Ghetto front USBs:
Let's make some holes in this brand new 100 quid case. Bring it on!
http://img398.imageshack.us/img398/9599/usbfrntheo7.jpg
Who cares if they look awful? They stay in place and you can't possibly make them cheaper ^^ And best of all, no one can see them.
http://img398.imageshack.us/img398/9687/usbltopmz2.jpghttp://img398.imageshack.us/img398/253/usblbttmbi2.jpg
And the very first pic, testing components on air, running rawhide, with the now deceased Abit IN9 32X-MAX shining:
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/6158/originshc5.jpg
How do you like that Corsair PSU? I've been thinking of getting one.
I have that same Corsair unit, it is really really nice. Minor complaint is there are 2 separate lines for the 4 pin and the 8 pin connectors for the CPU power but neither are modular, so you have to hide the one you don't use. The 24pin cable is a bit stiff and could be a bit more flexible but it isn't bad. The unit is very nice overall :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mdmbkr
Agree. Given is either or, I'd have made those connectors modular. I must admit I don't know if the reason why are fixed is purely cost related or there's something in the specification that prevents this feature (insertion loss, mechanical characteristics...)Quote:
Originally Posted by SparkyJJO
But it does what it says in the box. In my setup is silent, provides stable voltages across the board, if both the manufacturers and third parties figures are right it's fairly efficient, helps with cable routing and is not painful to look at.