I can't suggest anything for your HDD issue, as I only have one drive and you seem to have covered everything.Quote:
Originally Posted by -n7-
However I have a question - how good/bad was the contact between the NB and the NB heatsink?
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I can't suggest anything for your HDD issue, as I only have one drive and you seem to have covered everything.Quote:
Originally Posted by -n7-
However I have a question - how good/bad was the contact between the NB and the NB heatsink?
Yeah i like to know how the paste is too under NB and other pipes?
I may take mine off and apply some Thermalright ChillFactor instead.
Will that invalidate the warranty?
I think not as long as you never state you did so .. they ain't going to tear it all apart to see if you did .... you imagine all the mobos being RMA'ED .... like hundreds of all styles and models ... they ain't got the time to yank them all apart to state .. oh this guy used different paste on his mobo ..... AS LONG as it is NON CONDUCTIVE PASTE and you never Caused The Failing Issue ... then it is FINE as far as i am concerned.... :)
And if caught .. DENY DENY DENY ... :) :) :)
As Mr. Notro said. However, just be careful when removing and re-doing it, I have seen a few people somehow bend the assembly during the process, and if you do not get a good even contact between the mosfets and the HS's, you can burn PWM phases easily. Best left to people who know for sure what they are doing.
I redid the paste on my NB. It was some pretty thick stuff, i replaced it with AS5, and like a noob i forgot to check before and after temps. The southbridge was the same. The mosfets i couldn't redo the paste on because underneith is one of those rubber looking pads instead of paste because there's so many and they're so small.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastNotro
How's that compare to AS5?Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastNotro
What was the contact between the NB heatsink and the chip itself like?Quote:
Originally Posted by Dalten
AS5 is conductive and takes 200 hours to cure.Quote:
Originally Posted by WildstarOCT
Thermalright Chillfactor is NON Conductive and takes no time to cure .. it is like MX2.
Now as for temp wise Chillfactor is about 2-3C lower then AS5 . i run it on my CPU right now and i love it now ... i have always been a fan of AS3 and AS5 . for years ... but this Chillfactor is GOOD/GREAT stuff.
Thks for the Info, but i like to know as well as CryptiK . how was the contact between the NB, the SB and Mosfets like.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dalten
Meaning were Matched Up really well .. or a GAP in between maybe thats way Think Paste was used at manufacturing times.... that woudl be scary if TRUE as we pppl only like Thin Layer of Paste on such things and if there is a GAP there .. well then NB will BURN not COOL , but BURN.
Have you tested it against MX-2?Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastNotro
Decided to RMA my board and I ordered a Maximus II Formula to try. This thing just randomly reboots for no apparent reason.
MX2 and Thermal Right Chillfactor are within 1-2C of each other and that is with either or based upon test results from mnay review sites and both are about 1C-2C-3C lower then AS5 depends on reviews and such.Quote:
Originally Posted by SiGfever
I think Chillfactor is Rebranded MX2 for thermal right, but modified to what ThermalRight wanted in it as you can't have the same product being sold by thermalright with same ingredients as they aould be a copyright issue.
Here is reviews:
AS5 against Thermalright Chill Factor.
http://www.tweaknews.net/reviews/the...tor/index3.php
Thermalright Chill Factor Vs CoolLaboratory Liquid Pro
http://metku.net/index.html?path=rev...pro/index_eng3
AS5 is not conductive...
I reflashed back to 0803 and tried hooking up 2 drives (both Samsung 1Tb drives) only one is detected, tried then 2 Seagate 500Gb HD's only one is detected, tried my opticial Dvd and either one of the 4 platters, only one drive is detected in the boot up screen...Quote:
Originally Posted by -n7-
No idea how you managed to get two of them working as standalones... but it doesn't work on my board, will try the 2 E's next week but think I'll get the same result there... keep you updated
correct but be carefull :Quote:
Originally Posted by oohms
Not Electrically Conductive:
Arctic Silver 5 was formulated to conduct heat, not electricity.
(While much safer than electrically conductive silver and copper greases, Arctic Silver 5 should be kept away from electrical traces, pins, and leads. While it is not electrically conductive, the compound is very slightly capacitive and could potentially cause problems if it bridges two close-proximity electrical paths.)
One of the reasons I still use Ceramique for chipsets...
and Beast really man that first review is so so ... we all know AS needs 50+ hours before it's up to it's standards, so their comparison is not correct ... and I love to see how you can make sure you didn't add too much or just too little paste...
I spread only thin layer on the IHS just like the OLD days.... and it works great ... i had AS5 on my Q6600 prior to using chillfactor and when i did use chillfactor i was 3C lower then AS5 was (thats even after AS5 was broke in 5 days) ... i needed to remount my sink .. had no AS5 left and i said well lets try this out since many reviews say it is better .. and sure enough it is . just like MX2 is.
Most reviews allow for AS5 to cure before they do the testing.
If you not like that review .. google Thermalright Chill Factor Vs MX2 or Artic Silver 5 and you will find that 95% are pretty much the same conclusion.
Same experience here. Just port 0 works for "normal" SATA.Quote:
Originally Posted by oohms
So I have two useless SATA connectors on the board, the other one is under my 8800GTX. Not enough clearance even with 90 deg. SATA connectors.
Other than that, I like the board a lot.
So you can't setup JBOD on those two ports?
Damn if thats true i wanted to get two 80GB to setup in there, but not in RAID.
could someone please tell me how you add your images from your desktop on to your post ,ive tried using snipping tool in vista but no luck, i would appreciate any you guys could give, thanks
I use PhotoBucket.com and i upload to there. Then i insert the url link to here by using the image button.
[IMG]http://i436.photobucket.com/albums/q.../linpack40.jpg[/IMG] second try this is my first overclock attemt@4.0
If I remember right the northbridge had a fairly small layer and it seemed to have pretty good contact, no gap at all on mine. There was quite a bit of excess paste on the sides of the IHS of the NB though so I think they used a bunch and the rest got squished out. The SB was a lot thicker, i think it was actually some thermal glue of some sort but maybe it was just really thick paste, but there was no gap there. The only improvement I expect would be from a better a material used than asus used on the NB, the SB I think already has overkill for cooling already but you have to remove it to get the NB and mosfets off too.Quote:
Originally Posted by BeastNotro
The mosfets, same story, there were no gaps at all, you can easily see the tiny things making impressions into the rubbery material so it was clear they were making good contact. You could take off the rubbery material and replace it with some non electrically conducting paste but I don't know how much of a difference it would make over the thermal rubber like solution asus implimented. I don't have any non-electrically conducting material so i didn't try this.
MX-2 might be worth a try.
I love MX-2. :)
Dalten
Thsk for the extensive info and i think My Thermalright Chillfactor will do great ... and as DEE said MX2 is just as good as Chillfactor.
Its the same stuff really, but Thermalright added some more to their product so it is not a copyright issue.
And as i noted previously in this thread it is better then AS5 and within 1-2C lower then MX2.
Is there any trick to getting AHCI to work on this board? (hell is it even useful?)
When i orignally put the system together the sata settings were ENHANCED and IDE.. and i was installing windows again (formatting the drive) so i thot to go with AHCI .. and i got a BSOD during installation with the code 0x0000007B.
Anyone running their drives in AHCI? any advantage to doing so?
Thanks!
anyone else getting cold boot issues with this board? When i go to start it up in the morning it always fails to post until i power it down and back up again. Then it comes up saying overclocking failed however once i get it into windows it will pass Orthos/Pi/etc without a hiccup. All voltages except Vcore and Vdimm are at auto.