Your bios problem aussie?
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Your bios problem aussie?
But i cant get into the bios or windowQuote:
Originally Posted by dark-tweaker
Thank you
Quote:
Yes i switch between the two bios, but no go
Also the did the following
- switch the memory to black slot, install only one memory stick
- remove the second VGA card, and switch between the PCI-E lane
- press the GO switch
- switch between the two bios
I did these all things but no boot, all lights on but no boot !!
But i notice that a red LED light is always on beside the 24 pin connector, and when i checked the manual, its related to CPU
It had code 62 and after I flashed it now it wont even try to post, you think its just a bad flash? Then why wont it take a flash again? What can I do to fix it?Quote:
Originally Posted by dark-tweaker
:(
one more thing guys, i remember that i installed new driver (nvidia 306.97) before the last time i close my PC
Well, after all the solutions i tried failed, i decided to remove the CPU, and this what i saw;
there is some rust on the bolts, socket and the CPU
Attachment 130726Attachment 130727Attachment 130728Attachment 130729
I don't remember that i spell any liquid on the mobo, also i used air fan cooler
Anyway what do think guys , IS the MOBO dead (all light on mobo works) ?
Also is the CPU dead ?
EDIT: looks like the dark spots on the socket and the cpu, burns and not rust
Thank you
On the 1st picture the lever isnt closed correctly. is that only because you put it that way for the photo or was it installed that way?
If you fired your system up with the lever half open, then this is what i would expect the cpu to look like, if not worse. A wonder this thing even booted... :-)
No its closed correctly, i just open it to take some pictures.
To me it looks like something that happens when you use high voltage for benching...seen this reported by phase/LN2 users sometimes. The golden connectors become dark. This has not happened to me so far for using max 1.55V on Corsair water cooler. Are those connectors on the CPU totally burnt or can you carefully rub the burn away, with alcohol for example?
For the rust, it seems obvious spill or have you for example washed the cooler under water before assembling it and letting it fully dry?
Try to clean the CPU mate with eg Arcticlean, but it indeed looks like socket burn mark... could be fluid related, as this looks pretty bad for just a 4.4Ghz OC...
I think that the rust under the bolts because i washed the heat sink before i install it, but that was before few months ago. also i did not raise the the Vcore more than 1.3 .
I tried to clean the cpu with Arcticlean, but the burn spot, not vanish, the same thing with the socket.
I guess that i have to buy new mobo and CPU :(
Sorry mate but found your old post, could it have happened a long time ago but the CPU just died now? http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=1#post5067957
This reminds me of socketgate. Where the old Foxconn Lynnfield LGA sockets didn't contact correctly and caused damage.
There was also a high current component, but it feels similar.
See here: http://www.anandtech.com/show/2859/
What about the socket, it's removable if you want to use older coolers. Could it be that it was loose? http://event.asus.com/2011/rog/X-Socket/
Anyway koc I would ask about this on the Asus ROG forums and then contact Asus rep what to do. I would at least try to RMA the board, based on the feedback from Asus.
Hi, I have a Rampage IV Extreme with the last bios set, the 3010, and I'm trying to install on two 74GB Raptor in Raid 0 windows 8, but no way. I ask the drivers for a device and I detected Raid 0. I tried to put it in the red SATAS in blacks and nothing, I tried several drivers Rst and nothing, anyone know which drivers have to put Intel Rst so you can do the installation with this bios Thanks and regards.
P.D; Sorry for my bad English.
i7 3960X # 3133B429
R IV E
Corsair Dominator GT 2133
Watercooling System
http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/1...pi322133c9.jpg
http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/3...33c9physix.jpg
http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/5...tage1600c8.jpg
Physix on + Light OC 690 :
http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/4...33c9physix.jpg
PS : this Mobo works great with my Proc n mem.. +1 for asus :up:
any idea with this "The AsusFanControlService service hung on starting." its getting rather annoying to wait around 1min in startup with ssd...This is with ASUS AI Suite II V2.00.01 and R4F
New bios: 3510
http://station-drivers.com/
From ASUS Support:
Rampage IV Extreme Bios v.3101 (29/10/2012)
http://support.asus.com/download.asp...FZemJak3vMbWHg
hey guys got my RIVE setup on the bench before my water block goes on it. i have updated to bios 3101 from asus site, i would like to try one of these modded bios's
What does the modded bios's have over the bios u DL from asus? And what one would you guys recommend
Gear being used
RIVE
3960X
X2 gtx680
2133 Dominator Platinum
SSD X2 Samsung 830 series 512G Raid 0
Thanks
Well I figured I would ask this question here since the Asus tech I spoke with had no clue:
Will the R4E run an E5 Xeon?
99% sure it will recognise it correctly.
:)
Hi,
At least the P9X79 WS supports it, and that mobo doesn't look too different from RIVE... of course if the BIOS supports it. Maybe you should ask Raja?
Hello all
I just by a Rampage 4 Formula and a 3930K and run for my first test at 4700 Mhz for 1.4V with 16 Go of Muskin 2133 9-11-9 27 .
I use the new bios for R4F 3101.
How do you guys flash your bios? We aren't supposed to use flashback to update right? And I don't get the cap/rom thing coz last time I tried none of them worked (maybe that mobo is faulty)
Cheers
:)
EZ Flash from the BIOS is the most convenient in my opinion. Never had any problems with it either. Just make sure you flash during default settings or reset CMOS before a flash. I also like to reset the CMOS after a flash.
The CAP is simple. Select it in EZ Flash like you would with a regular BIOS update. It will start the conversion then update your BIOS/EUFI to 2105. From there you can update to latest "CAP" BIOS if you wish.
That is a Maximus BIOS not for the ASUS Rampage Extreme IVQuote:
Originally Posted by Nizzen
***ASUS Rampage IV Extreme Owners Thread***
How can i reduce vcore for 24/7 usage, should i play with pll or llc?
Thanks
http://s13.postimage.org/vagfffq6v/4800_mem_2400_1.jpg
http://s13.postimage.org/hutepzhp3/4800_mem_2400_2.jpg
http://s13.postimage.org/kdf3qo3fb/4800_mem_2400_3.jpg
http://s13.postimage.org/jp697q4pj/4800_mem_2400_4.jpg
http://s13.postimage.org/tnr7u7e53/4800_mem_2400_5.jpg
http://s13.postimage.org/rkgsmjec7/4800_mem_2400_6.jpg
http://s13.postimage.org/47ir40y8n/4800_mem_2400_10.jpg
http://s13.postimage.org/5b2vfzivr/4800_mem_2400_11.jpg
http://s13.postimage.org/laq4da4bb/4...00_windows.png
All pics http://postimage.org/gallery/a89kuho4/
You GFlops are really really low...is it fully stable at 4800? Try Prime95 27.7..
Guys, I have tried a 3930K and a 3960X in my R4E and even though both were confirmed decent clockers I am having great troubles with this rig. At this point I have the 3930K in with 3101 bios, at stock clocks its showing vid of 1.326v, cpu-z is showing 1.312v at idle and 1.288v while priming. I have tested with a DMM and confirmed 1.288 measured volts while priming. I have to set vcore manually to 1.35v to get it stable at 4.4ghz but the last owned (who is known to me, fellow OCAU member) could get 4.7-4.8 ghz at those volts. He has benchmarks at 5300 on water, I am never going to get anywhere near that as it is. I know results vary etc etc but that much? My last 2011 rig - 3930K on an R4F could prime 4500 at 1.250v, this rig is a let down. I also have a 3960X that is suffering the same symptoms on this motherboard, is the mobo stuffed? Bios update didnt help at all.
Any help would be great.
:-(
a-ha, the rig is a let-down because you aren't able to overclock it right? you should not judge so fast about these things if you are not willing to educate yourself about at least some basic knowledge on overclocking these platforms. for a start, you should try overclocking with load line calibration set to medium or high. you just won't get anywere if it is disabled past 4.5ghz. this should give you at least the voltage you set for vcore under load, maybe even higher (which isn't a bad thing most of the time). just as a remainder: read rajas guide on overclocking the r4e and keep an close eye on these voltage difference limits. also it shouldn't hurt to check if ALL the other voltages are in range as well under load. maybe the auto-setting in bios messes something up here...Quote:
Originally Posted by aussie-revhead
Nah Im disappointed as it seems to need heaps of vcore to be stable, why would it default to 1.32v at stock clocks (all settings at default) ? I run LLC on high as it seems to provide a loaded vcore nearly identical to that set in bios. I tried all default as a diagnostic test. It is priming now at 4200 with 1.250v, so I will build on that.
This mobo was bought from an LN bencher so its copped a flogging, I might try a new mobo and see if things change.
:)
You are totally right mate, it was not stable. I have to reduce frequency to keep the sweet vcore.Quote:
Originally Posted by xarot
The vdrop is huge using Prime at MEDIUM LLC. I was convinced that IBT was the hardest tool out there LOL.
Well Im going for 4.7Ghz then lets see if i can keep it under 1.425 for 24/7 Otherwise I?ll drop it to 4.6 and so on.
What about LLC on HIGH, is it good for 24/7?
I?m getting better results now, do i really need to run prime for 24 hours?
http://s17.postimage.org/t8i72usjj/Capture.png
I am getting 112 GFlops in LinX with i7-3960X @ 4.4 GHz HT on and 1866 RAM.
Mobo is in LN2 enabled mode. Stick the pin to disable located on the top right of the mobo under the debug led.Quote:
Originally Posted by aussie-revhead
I get around 100 GFlops if i only use 10 Gb memory, if I use all the memory i get around 60 - 80
To be honest I have only tested with 16 GB since my Windows 7 Home Premium only supports max 16 GB lol. :) I'd need Pro version of Windows to be use more than 16 (I've got 32 GB on my RIVE). But yeah my 112 GFlops was done with "max ram used".Quote:
Originally Posted by psyxeon
What I've figured out, that when I've OC'd I've checked the GFlops with LinX quickly if there is an actual increase or decrease in GFlops. After that I run Prime95 overnight, since around 8-10 hours is near the max I ever have my computer running continuously. What I could recall when I had a 3930K, I could get "stable" 4.7 GHz with LinX running for around 2 hours, but the GFlops were around 60-70 only. Prime95 would crash even in 15 minutes. I finally got only 4.5 stable with both programs.
I'd say the rules have changed a bit with SB-E OCing, previously LinX was the ultimate tool but now P95...:)
P95 27.7 AVX is just evil. I need so much vcore to be stable at 4.7Ghz, it gave me 124s all the way up to 1.46Vcore where I decided to go to bed due BSOD madness.
I can do IBT 10 passes max memory at 4.8Ghz 1.4Vcore, same with LinX 20 passes but prime95 is just impossible.
"Maybe I need more vtt, or vcsa for prime 27.7 :confused: because the memory controller is pushed to the max " BTW i only tested SMALL fft?s" Should i use blend?
I had a feeling about this too, but I tried both ways on the LN switch and it made no difference. Also in bios, the very first line shows the LN mode status, and both ways shows disabled, so I dont know whats going on.Quote:
Originally Posted by MrTOOSHORT
:(
I'm having trouble with my RIVE after updating the bios from 1404 to 3101, on cold boot and reboot it stops for 20 sec on postcode 65 and for 50 sec on postcode 67.
I've tried three different CPU's and two sets of memory also tried three different GPU's all with the same result.
Any ideas?
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/863/linxt.jpg
Try to load Ram mhz profile.
BTW why do you have pll at 1.9v?
pll is on Auto :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by psyxeon
This OC is just a splash and run, screenie is just to prove the rig runs stable and all the memory works.
My problem is the ridiculously long boot of over 2 mins I got after updating the bios from 1404 to 3101, rig stops on postcode 65 and 67 (both memory related if I'm not mistaken) for almost 1,5 mins.
Have you tried using the MemOK button?
you can just set the pll to 1.8v :)
Yes I've tried the memOK button and tried reflash and rollback of bios without any change.Quote:
Originally Posted by psyxeon
I usually run with pll on 1,7ish when I'm at my 5 GHz 24/7 OC but I've done a lot of CMOS and tried different OC's from stock and up to see if that has any effect on my problem.
Agree. :) There might be some voltage that we could tune but I didn't bother as I found X79 overclocking pretty boring in the long run compared to X58 and probably compensated with a higher vcore and lower clocks. If you find anything please let me know as well. VCSSA/VTT maybe as you said? I always use blend.Quote:
Originally Posted by psyxeon
I've seen many users "having" 4.8 GHz on air cooling, and for me it's always hard to believe now that they have used P95 for stability testing... :)
ASUS Rampage IV Extreme BIOS 3204 (2012/11/19)
http://support.asus.com/download/opt...uage=en&type=1
- Improve system stability.
Using Strap 125 http://valid.canardpc.com/show_oc.php?id=2595284
Has anybody tried the new BIOS 3204? I'm using 2105 and it's working good.
BIOS 3204 is fine here on Rive
Thanks psyxeon :) Did you notice any improvements? Are the profiles the same?
Yes using same voltages, same settings. Some at Asus Rog forums say that bios 3xxx uses less voltage for idle compared to 2105 but I don't see any difference.
You won't be able to use your saved OC profiles so take some pictures :)
Thank you again psyxeon, I set the volts manually but pics are nice :)
http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/u...1129182958.png
Did you notice any vcore difference from 2105 to 3204?
----------------------------
IntelBurnTest v2.54
Created by AgentGOD
----------------------------
Processor: Intel(R) Core(TM) i7-3930K CPU @ 3.20GHz
Clock Speed: 4.66 GHz
Active Physical Cores: 12
Total System Memory: 16324 MB
Stress Level: High (2048 MB)
Testing started on 12/1/2012 3:07:31 PM
Time (s) Speed (GFlops) Result
[15:08:02] 17.961 147.1228 3.316935e-002
[15:08:32] 17.960 147.1362 3.316935e-002
[15:09:02] 18.208 145.1345 3.316935e-002
[15:09:33] 17.901 147.6173 3.316935e-002
[15:10:03] 17.863 147.9358 3.316935e-002
[15:10:32] 18.068 146.2545 3.316935e-002
[15:11:02] 18.000 146.8069 3.316935e-002
[15:11:32] 18.003 146.7809 3.316935e-002
[15:12:02] 17.938 147.3187 3.316935e-002
[15:12:32] 18.277 144.5814 3.316935e-002
Testing ended on 12/1/2012 3:12:32 PM
Test Result: Success.
----------------------------
I now have a new R4F and the same issue exists, my 3960X defaults to 1.355v and my 3930K to 1.328v, so what do you think now?Quote:
Originally Posted by MrTOOSHORT
:(
I'm still running 2105, updating to 3204 is not viable. I'll wait for the next update and flash it if it will give astonishing results :) LOLQuote:
Originally Posted by psyxeon
quick question, if i populate slots 1 and 4 with a gtx670 for 16x across both in SLI and if i were to use a pci x1 in the last slot for my sound card will it automatically make my second card run at 8x?
No, both run at x16 bandwidth. Checked that myself, using the same setup for my system.Quote:
Originally Posted by Circaflex
I'm sorry I misread your question - I thought you meant using the PCI x1 slot, not putting a pci x1 in the 16 slot.
Yes, that will make slot 4 go to 8x.
Very sorry.
Hi guys.
I need help with my overclock.
I tucked the CPU 4.8mhz, but when I do a test with prime95 or 3DMark11 or 3DmarkVantage, my PC crash in the middle of the test?s and gives a blue screen code: 0x00000101 (0x0000000000000011, 0x0000000000000000, 0xFFFFF88C03B42180, 0X000000000000000A)
I changed the following voltages:
CPU Ration: 48
X.M.P Enabled
CPU Vcore - 1.385
VTT CPU Voltage - 1.20000
2nd VTTCPU Voltage - 1.16997
CPU VCCSA - 1.20000
Dram Voltage (CHA,CHB) - 1.515
Dram Voltage (CHC,CHD) - 1.515
CPU PLL - 1.80000
PCH 1.1V . 1.10000
DIGI+Power Control:
CPU Load-line Calibration - Ultra High
CPU Current Frequency - 140%
CPU Fixed Frequency - 350
CPU Power Duty Control - Extreme
CPU VSA:
VCCSA Load-line Calibration - Extreme
VCCSA Current Capability - 140%
VCCSA Fixed Frequency - 350
When I start doing tests Prime95 seems to be okay as you can see in the picture
http://i308.photobucket.com/albums/k...ps9e95a83c.png
Please can some one help?
First, have you tested your mem kit with memtest? Second, imho your cpu vcore is kinda low for 4.8. Use vcore at auto with cpu LLC regular. Also no need to bump the VCSSA so much with LLC, just use regular and a fixed value such as 1.1.
It looks like you're only loading three cores with P95 judging by your temps. Also, a few mins of P95 is not enough to verify stability. Different people will tell you different lengths of time to run it. Some say 8 hours is stable, some say 12 hours, some say 24 hours. Personally, I run it until it has made one full pass on each core, regardless of the amount of time it takes(this may not be feasible for some, as with some of my systems this has taken 36+ hours.)
That aside, I do have some tips to aid in your quest for stability(which I'm sure some may disagree with, those of you who do, speak up. I'm simply an amateur compared to a lot of you folks here on XS.)
Lower your 2nd VTT voltage, that does nothing to help with overclocking and can cause odd instabilities if raised too high. Just make sure it's within .3v of VTT and you're ok, so you should be able to set 2nd VTT to auto or whatever stock is and be fine.
Also raise your CPU current capability to 180% and frequency to 450.
Since you're running 8 sticks of RAM, up your VCCSA to around 1.225v. Also a slight bump in your PLL voltage to around 1.82v may help.
Your VCore may also be a little low, but that's on a chip-by-chip basis. You might want to just raise it by a good notch(1.42ish) for stability testing and go back and lower it later and retest for stability.
Sounds good to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Random Murderer
I have just been perusing "ock.net" and in there, to test stability with Prime95 for just one hour is recommended as ..............
http://www.overclock.net/t/1151946/o...#post_18825344
I just tried that and get the same problem of half the workers shutting down in a random order. A suggestion in Prime95 is to change the swapfile. How do I do that? Do you think that the quoted recommendation is too severe?
I'm trying to run A 3960x C1 at 4.7 with Vcore 1.42. 16 gig of ram using the XMP setting.
I wont list all the parameters. It's safe to say that your recommendations above are about the same. I have got a 20+ LinX run with only 1.34 Vcore and over 2 hours in Primeblend.
Thanx for your time
I want to do "Per Core" Turbo overclocking, but I have no idea how to test stability.
Setting affinity for prime 95 does not work.
Any ideas?
By Per Core:
Core Ratio: 48
Core Ratio: 48
Core Ratio: 47
Core Ratio: 47
Core Ratio: 46
Core Ratio: 46
C1E: Enabled
C3 Report: Enabled
C6 Report: Enabled
Cheers
Do you have active cooling around your mem, cpu area, specifically the boards VRMs? If not usually cores drop out due to high LLC, you can tell if this is happening if cpu speed starts to throttle while running the stress test.Quote:
Originally Posted by newhit
Thanx for that.Quote:
Originally Posted by Guz
No, no cooling, but I've since found out I've been using the 32 bit version of Prime :rolleyes:. All OK with 64 bit version. I'm now getting valid use of Prime which is running past 2 hours OK (Blend).
I can now run with 4.8GHz at 1.36Vcore. I wont post all the settings but safe to say there is only CPU LLC at Ultra High taking my Vcore under load upto 1.40-1.41. I've got C1E enabled but C3,C6,C7 are disabled which might not be to everyones liking. VCCSA and VTT are at 1.2 and my 16 gig Dram is set to XMP with the MHz reduced from 2400 to 2166 for a little bit of insurance.
I will probably drop to 47x and 1.34Vcore for 24/7 use.
PS
All on aircooling...Noctua NH-D14. (I have a water rig but this setup is for a.n.other)
Been having what seems like alot of niggling stability issues with the RIVE. This is my third one, the other two didn't make it out of bios before having issues, and this one is an older repair replacement from Asus.
I will start off by saying when it works its fine, but if it BSoD fom to higher clk, the restart doesn't do a thing neither does the start button held down for 4secs. The only way to reset it is to turn the power supply off completely and even that can take 2-3 times before it will boot again :(
If I do a normal restart off windows, it will fail to boot and need to be power cycled as well, although that seems a bit better of late. Although today on restsrt it failed and started doing an irog2 update which was looking to take about 4hrs. I turned it off and when trying it a few hrs later its all good again :shrug:
The only thing I have found thats a little strange was touch checking heatsink while having some of these problems, I touched the PCH sink, and noticed the SATA led lit up dimly, infact touching the board with light pressure anywhere round that corner makes the led light. Sounds like a PCB problem but I just wonder if that happens with other boards?
System details
3930k @4.8g 1.385 watercooled 60-65c
RIVE 3204 bios
64g 2133 GSKILL kit XMP settings
GTX 580
SEASONIC 1000w platinum
testing on bench
will running fine no crashes benching but tring to setup a RAM disk so I need it to be 100% reliable starting restarting etc
The overclock you are running is not 100% stable during POST. Could be a number of things. To chase it down I'd back off on the OC, relax some memory timings. Also check your board is not shorting against your PC case. Having three boards with "issues" suggests something about your setup - either physically or you don't have a fully stable OC, which needs tuning to complete POST.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nico
What you guys don't know is that during memory training the IMC performs over 1000 read and write operations to train the DIMMs. If the system is not fully stable with the data pattern either a channel will drop or the system will fail POST. Obviously, POST will only occur if the system is stable enough to POST, when it is, you may reach the OS and even run stress tests, but when it's not you won't. Catches a lot of people out on these newer platforms as they don't know that the memory training process is a stress test in itself. After a certain frequency some IMCs won't POST first time. Not much we can do about that. You want the system to work 100% every time your only option is to relax the overclock; memory frequency, timings and CPU frequency until the system works how you want it to.
Just tried it again this morning and it did BSoD while have Real Temp up and running Crystalmark, strangely enough the reset button worked, first time ever :) If anything I have noticed more issues while having multiple things up. I had however backed it down from 4.9ghz where it was pretty stable but would BSoD occasionally during physics tests.
Is there a good way to test mem at OC speeds these days as turbo doesn't seem to kick in with memtest 86?, mem did pass 36hrs at XMP settings,
vtt - 1.225 (really seemed to help OC at lower vcore lifting this)
vccsa - 1.10
cpu pll - 1.8 (does seem to have much effect whatever its set too)
vdimm - 1.525 (a liitle extra to keep it over 1.5)
pch - 1.125 (a liitle extra to keep it over 1.1 and to keep it in line with other voltages being up
As for the other two boards, they pretty just failed the first I left sitting in bios while I went to get a optical drive and was off and wouldn't boot when i returned. CPU died with that too.
The second was better but did the irog2 thing after it had fully complete the bios flsah and i had shut it down to connect the optical drive. should have just shut that one off too and maybe it would have come back. but tried both bios and left it running, and that too killed the second CPU.
notably neither was OC, but both where at XMP as I was going to memtest the ram next.
All tested on the bench so no case, sitting on antistaticbag on dense faom pad to give vga back panel height, test all stuff like this before installing in a case to save me later grief :)
It kinda points toward the ram, although it memtests fine, and I did give it a bit more vdimm and vccsa over what happly passes just for safety margin. Although still not sure why the start and restart button fail or the SATA led act up?
Sounds like some kind of power short or ground loop against the heatsink of your board.
List all the components you are using (include all USB etc).
You might want to get your PSU professionally checked - I don't mean with a PSU tester. You need to find a test engineer that has an oscilloscope to probe the rails and look for any abnormalities on that side. Three boards having issues in one person's system like this points at something that you are using.
you killed 3 boards and 2 CPUs in a row and never thought about an error on your side? thats unbelievable...
did you know that antistatic bags are electrically conductive? i'll bet that you fried your hardware with just your ghetto-style benchtable... :)
I tested the mem at 2250 same settings for 21hrs/ 3 passes without error so seems like XMP is safe at 2133.
Its extremely basic :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Raja@ASUS
CPU, MB, RAM and Videocard as above.
plus 300g raptor hard and an pioneer bluray (for optical)
I did consider the PSU, but haven't seen any noticeable voltage issues although as you say it could be ripple or something like that.
As for the LED thing, it happen if I press on the SATA sockets or even the corner of the board so it sounds more like a flexing issue causing a short or something, but it doesn't seem to crash it only maybe once when I first noticed it it could have cuased a restart.
Considering I have never had boards do that before while testing exactly the same way, then I would say no, although it seem like a sequence thing where the board flakes out and is likely seeing voltages go out of control frying the CPU's. So maybe inadventantly something like the mem has caused the bios to flake out but seems a little bizzare to me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Breit
Quote:
Originally Posted by Raja@ASUS
Ok so it turns out the anti-static bag whilst good for static is not so good for power :) took it out from under the motherboard and the SATA led doesn't seem to act up anymore. Hopefully thats also what has been causing the random weird syptoms. Could be due to the extra weight of ram etc that causes it to be problematic when I had seen that type of thing with previous boards. Think I should probably get a proper open test bench ;p will see how it continues :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Breit
Thanks for the prompts guys, sometimes it takes a few prompts to spot the issue :)
:shakes::shakes::shakes: People have been :cord: for far less
@Raja - RESPECT
Guys, I was looking at water cooling an R4E to keep me going until Ivy-E comes out but when looking at the EK R4E kit it seems like a water block is missing, is this right? The factory heatsink covers three sets of components (not including the SB) but the kit has only two blocks, what cools the components behind the I/O panel if you remove the factory heatsink? I really only want to wter cool the SB as I hate the fan noise, is there any chance a R4F heatsink will cover the MOSFETs and then I can use smaller block just on the SB? (looking at it again there isnt a block for SB only ... I dont really want to WC the whole thing coz its a mess .... thats why I got my R4F to start with)
Any help would be great.
The third heatsink you speak of on the R4E doesn't actually contact anything on the board. It is there, connected by a heatpipe, strictly to help with cooling the mosfets/chipset. Same goes with the heatsink below the socket that says "Republic of Gamers" on it, it doesn't actually contact anything.Quote:
Originally Posted by aussie-revhead
If you were to watercool the R4E, the only two blocks you would need are the mosfet and chipset blocks.
Awesome, thank you.
:)
Hello
First teste 3930K C2 H2O
http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/866...4800mhz.th.jpg
Rampage IV Extreme BIOS 3504
Hey all!
I have an old bios 1305 and am having instability while over clocking (the board losses saved settings). I wanted to update my bios but after visitng ASUS web site, I am completly lost! Im running windows 7, Is there anyone who can post a simple "how to"? The asus Adobe guide has instructions, three ways of doing it. The way its written it blends in one to another so you cant tell where one stops and another begins.
Thank you!
If i remember correctly, you need the BIOS CAP converter tool from their website. This is simply a modified 2105 BIOS in ROM format (the old format). With this, you can flash your new BIOS in a 2-step flash process: First, your BIOS is flashed to this modified 2105 BIOS version, which has the converter build in and converts your BIOS structure to the new CAP format. After that, the normal new BIOS (in CAP format this time) can be flashed as normal.
i have problem with Hitachi laptop HDD, it seems it is not compatible with Asus motherboard, any solution?
http://www.abload.de/img/dsc0774005l7q.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by Breit
Thanks Ill try it, sounds easier then there site, I guess cause my board is so old They don't come by no more. Shame really!!!!!!!!!
please help with my problem, i want to backup my NTB disk onto big PC and i cant :(
Lucky boy, mine needs same volts for 4500 ...Quote:
Originally Posted by marcolecorse
:(
i need to use 1.4v for 4500....Quote:
Originally Posted by aussie-revhead
NO GO!:down:Quote:
Originally Posted by jaggerwild
Is standy and hibernation are known problem with ROG X79 ?
And have anothe problem with R4G :
Sometimes, ReStart & Reset button and Sound led ( on the pcb ) are non-stop blinking until I reseat the ATX 24 connector ?
Is it a sort of protection or have bad motherboard ? My PSU is Seasonic 500W and had powered a good IB rig and also a mITX rig wihtout a single problem like this.
My R4G is out of the box, fresh Win8 installed, bios that came 3204, one of the last, should I flash to the newest one ?
Need help, really annoying bugs ...
EDIT: thanks for your help ...
OKQuote:
Originally Posted by Breit
I figured it out, its not in the 2105 after you convert the BIOS from ROM TO CAPS it installs the 2105 bios(be default), then you can update it. I was reading the PDF instructions and it totally through me off. So now I just read the file insructions on the renamer, did that now im on bios 2105. Now I can set everything to default and flash to a newer bios, after renamer it just sat there. I had to clear the CMOS for it to even boot. Maybe this will help somebody........
Good day all, do I need to take the RIVE under water with a good water block or is it cool, my Rampage 3 extreme runs hot on it's passive HSF had to take it with a water block to keep it cool.
What about the RIVE, do I need to?
I have a RIVE that is still in its box, the Rampage 3 Extereme does generate massive heat from the VRM and south bridge, but not so sure about the RIVE since I have not used yet, plan to install it later this week, might use this though to cool it : http://www.frozencpu.com/products/18...l=g57c605s1915
If you have decent airflow over the stock heatsink, you'll be fine. Even the guys that go subzero on these boards just put a small(60-80mm) fan on the stock heatsink.
Watercooling the VRMs is not necessary unless you cannot get airflow over the stock heatsink. Watercooling the chipset is not necessary at all.
Personally, I have two 120mm fans mounted on a radiator on the top of my case exhausting hot air and they generate enough airflow to cool the stock heatsink which really surprised me as it was a tight fit. The shrouds of the fans are nearly touching said heatsink and yet it is only slightly warm to the touch.
Damn, I am having an issue with my new build!
I can see in BIOS that there are 4 sticks of RAM (4x4GB) installed but only 12GB available.
I think I need to reset the CPU in the socket, I hate to do so after all the time I have given to build it. :shakes:
You may need a slight bump in VDIMM and/or VCCSA voltage if reseating your CPU doesn't help.
No need to do so, I did reset the CPU in the socket and enabled the XMP in BIOS; that solved the issue, but now I am not sure regarding the CPU idle and load temperatures, I just relized that there is an issue with the EK supreme HF on the LGA 2011 which requires a different mounting screws or using 2.5mm washers on the current mounting system.
MY CPU idle temperatures are jum[ing between 31 and 42 !!!!
What temps does the water in your loop have at these 31C? On my system I got around 32-35C idle water temps depending on room temperature and with that, the CPU will never be colder than these 32-35C. Usually it sits between 38-43C idle (usage <5% from background tasks). This is with a 3930K at 4.8GHz and VCORE at ~1.4V.
My loop has CPU, GPU, RAID controller, chipset/VRM and 2x RAM coolers all on a single 420 radiator.
So your 31C look like a false reading to me.
My Lop has 3 GTX680 cards and the CPU, no motherboard or VRM blocks...just CPU + 3 GPUs over 2 x 480 Radiators.
My water temperature is around 26-28 with ambient of ~ 22-24.
MY CPU is at 4 GHz runing optimized settings with no overclocking, ohh MY CPU is an OEM 3970X
Well there's your problem. Three of the hottest GPUs combined with the highest TDP LGA2011 chip. The 3970x has a TDP of 150W at stock settings, compared to the 3820, 3930k and 3960x that have a 130W TDP.Quote:
Originally Posted by Salamndar
Have been running the same setup but with a 980x and a rampage 3 water cooled mobo with no issue!
No idea then. I was going to bring up the fact that the 980x is also a 130W TDP chip, but having the R3E watercooled as well would have negated the difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by Salamndar
I suspect it has something to do with your CPU block. How are the temps on your 680s compared to what they were in your R3E build?
I have not played any games yet on this mobo to stress the GPUs, currently downloading some tools and games from Origin and steam to try it out but God damn, download speed is rubbish lately due to the cut on SEA-ME-WE fiber cable !!!
It may be that your CPU block isn't making good contact or that the 3970x just runs damn hot. Have you checked if the block is making good contact and/or reseated it? Have you stressed it in Prime or something similar and watched the temps? Also, what are you using to monitor temps? The Asus software doesn't read even close to my actual temps for CPU. I suggest HWMonitor by the folks over at CPUID.