Dude you gotta show me how you did it!:up: Been tugging & pulling but i can't seem to get the heatpipe off the NB/SB sinks. :(
Woohoo, just got my box in with a fresh raptor too. I jacked a floppy drive from an old box at the office, they don't even sell those at my local radio shack or best buy anymore. Looking forward to getting lost in the DFI matrix tonight.
Well, the trick is when you loosen the screws, you have to gently move the heatspreader around the rotation line, left-right..because there is a stock paste compound on the nb/sb so, you have to try to remove it since it has got a bit harder while used, heating the core of the nb/sb. After you remove it, you just use the clips you get with the HR-05 and put it on. No hard work really, i would put some pics but my HP M525 is broken :( and is on repair now...
Just got my parts and was wondering if any of you actually installed the transpiper with the copper plate between the cpu and heatsink? It just doesn't make any sense to add a layer of material between the cpu and heatsink..
Also has anyone tried it with and without to see if it does indeed make a difference?
I have done it:D But unless you are water cooling there is really no collective benefit for all components temp wise and leaving it off is better if air cooling!
Put a small 20mm x 60mm fan over the pwm fins and that will drop tems about 6c on both PWM & NB:up: Also what I did with my Q6600 was install a Thermalright HR09 on the CPL-4-150 with Arctic Silver Lumina and the temps were equivalent to having the Fan over the PWM area;)
@ether.real ....PM sent to you:)
Kris,
I haven't done it myself but I've read reviews where others have and its no good! In fact it tends to just lower the temps of both parts (CPU and Heatsink). With that said though give it a go yourself and see how it works out. I did install the transpiper on the PWM heatsink but the heat just wouldn't travel past the connection between heatpipe and transpiper fins.
On a separate note has anyone tried messing around with GTL's voltages when running a dual core processor, is there anything to be gained from it? My initial thought was that it was only for quad cores but I've seen people enabled the GTL's with dual core? Granted I could just check it out myself but before devoting hours to testing I was hoping someone might post their experience with it?
I think you only need GTL votlages on custom when you are trying some hard settings 3.8GHz, 3.9GHz or above 4.0GHz. Otherwise for 24/7 you can leave it on stock.
Yes quite pathetic on my behalf Praz :am:
Good suggestion, you think with the multiple "how to search" stickies throughout the forum I'd have that technique down already, lol!
In preparation for my E8500 processor (on order), I installed some Corsair PC-9136 memory today. However, no matter what I try, I cannot get past the C1 on LED display when starting computer. I tried clearing CMOS, tried both pairs of slots on MB, and made sure to put the new RAM in after returning MB BIOS to factory settings. Nothing.
I can put my Patriot PC-8500 memory into either set of slots, and it works just fine. I really wanted this memory to work, and don't know what else to try. Because it was a special order, I am faced with a 20% restocking fee, and at $449 Canadian dollars, thats $90 out of my pocket. Any suggestions?
Guys I have the board ready to mount my Ultra 120 and I'm trying to decide on two things.
1. Use the transpiper - yeas or no? (definitely not using copper plate rig)
2. Use mofset sinks like this (these are just sitting there but seem to be a good fit so I may apply them)
http://www.movement-radio.com/mof.jpg
Also, I have a bunch of heat sinks of all sizes so if there's a spot I should hit or replace with better tim etc. please let me know. I'm only aircooling for this at the moment.
1. Yes, but on the southbridge, no need on the NB, if you have good airflow it will be cooled well. Just mount a 120mm fan@5V near it and you're set.
2. Use them if you have room, but i doubt you will prosper in that area :D, i know i cant with my Ultra eX.
Everything is pretty much thought of on this mobo, no need to worry.:up:
After you have been restting BIOS have you been manually setting the VDIMM voltage up to the rated voltage for those modules (2.2v-2.35v)? Also maybe manually set some of the DRAM settings within BIOS to make sure their not automatically defaulting to some hard to boot settings? I have a friend with thsi board and a kit of Corsairs PC2-8888's and he has a heck of a time getting them to bootup for the first time?
Thanks mad_skills. I'm going to setup and check it out with no add ons first.
Bummer, the heat pipe on my Ultra 120 touches the NB sink. I'd like to keep it vertical. I have a beefy San Ace going out the back and the top of a Stacker 832 though, so I guess that could work. Hmmm, think it would matter much if those two sinks (nb/cpu) were touching? I can tighten down the sink but I'm not sure what that would do to the heat flow.
PC BIOS at stock settings/stock speeds. These Corsair modules are rated for 1142 MHz at 2.1V, so I set BIOS to that voltage while using my old memory modules. I then replaced the Patriot memory modules with one Corsair PC-9136 module, and checked it in each of the four DIMM slots. Nothing. I tried again with the 2nd module in each of the four slots, and got the same result. Nothing, PC POST is stuck with LED on motherboard dispaying C1.
Unless there is something else I am missing, I have to assume the memory is defective/incompatible with MB. Any final suggestions?
dude, this DFI intel board is absolutely outstanding. I can tweak to my hearts content and stability is not a problem if you know what your doing.