Quote:
Originally Posted by loonym
Ask and you shall receive.
http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?p=313691
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Quote:
Originally Posted by loonym
Ask and you shall receive.
http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/showthread.php?p=313691
lol, this thread is about nf4 expert not cf-dr!Quote:
Originally Posted by man called (E)
The only reason poeple are connecting the cf-dr battery issue with the expert is that the boards have a similar layout and power regulation. Until DFI says something, I'm not sure we can, or should, tie the two boards together on this issue.
That said, I have no idea why anyone takes the battery out to clear the cmos anyways. I've never done that in my life....and I've cleared the cmos on boards like 20,000 times. Obviously, if the battery is dead, you got to remove it. But, if that's not the case, why are people taking out the battery? Powering down the board and using the jumper should be enough.
I never used the battery either, jumper always works. As for me I will try to switch out batteries just to see what the problem is but regardless board is going to RMA and im switching it with the a8n32 sli dlx. I am not too impressed with this board.
@ Crash
Asus Boards with NF4 are not free of bugs either. U'll have problems with timings 2-2-2-5-1T over 200MHz FSB for RAM - tested on TCCD and BH-5 like Geil Ultra-X 2x512MB (old and new) and Patriot XBLK 2x512MB and 2x1GB and few other brands.
mike, on my dfi nf4 ultra-d i could somestimes only get the board to boot again if i set the jumpers to reset and waited for 30mins. when i didnt want to wait i shut down the psu, powered it on again, shut it down again, waited for the leds to go out, powered it on again etc. after 10seconds of this the cmos was fresh and fine again...
so im not surprised there are people who have problems resetting cmos, seems the design is the same and it takes a while before cmos is reset properly.
after hearing about all this wouldnt recommend anybody to do what i did with my dfi nf4 ultra-d with their cf or expert boards though!
I had NEVER had to take out a battery until I got this Ultra-D( I heard other folks have, but I never did AFAIK), TBO I still don't know why I had to take it out, but I did.Quote:
Originally Posted by mdzcpa
I waited over 24hrs in the clear position, which did nothing, shut it off again, unplugged, and pulled battery with jumper in clear position for 3 hours....
It booted :confused:
Not only that, but here is a detailed cmos clear description by DFI-Street SUPER MOD!!!! Exroadie:
http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/show...4&postcount=24
Now you know why so many folks pull the battery ( as stated I have heard that battery pull thing for years, but he's a mod at THEIR forum)....
Now there is this issue with the Expert, which kinda throws a wrench into that now doesn't it Mike?
DFI-Street mods were the ones stressing to cleam CMOS with battery out..............................what ironyQuote:
Originally Posted by mdzcpa
there is no battery issue with the expert.... if you know otherwise would you please post a source?:nono:Quote:
Originally Posted by muzz
That's right dinos22, i've never took battery out untill i got ultra-d, and of course, follow the procedure from DFI-Street mods. However, i only took the battery out, set the jumper to clear position, when changed the CPU.Quote:
Originally Posted by dinos22
But now, the rule changes ? :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
Thats a pretty broad statementQuote:
Originally Posted by loonym
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=183
I will find others that discuss the battery issue, cuz I know there were more.
I glad that you KNOW that there is NO battery issue, I'd like to know what makes you so sure though.
Pretty tough thing to deal with IF there is an issue with the battery.
I'm gonna keep digging, but the word has been put out there.
BTW IF you are waiting for an OFFICIAL statement from DFI about something like that you may be waiting a LONG time...
Then you can wait some more.:D
There is a SUPPOSED statement about the RDX200 and battery removal at post 185.
I am aware that the RDx200 is not the Expert, but even still, that BS...
there is indeed a statement from dfi engineers concerning the RDX200 CF-DRQuote:
Originally Posted by muzz
http://www.dfi-street.com/forum/show...66&postcount=1
any link to the nf4 expert is speculation, hear say, or simply over active imaginations and serves noone in this community.
Whatever man.
Thanks for the input.
BTW WHY would they state to MFM that it MIGHT be the battery, when his WAS ( notice how I said WAS) an Expert that killed an FX/ 2gb Patriot ram..
not to mention the Expert died along side it.
If it were my board I'd have put a screwdriver through it like the POS LP NF2 board that killed my Barton.
I'd have to agree with you. If I read those tips, I'd have removed the battery too. These DFI boards have certainly introduced a whole lot of wierd $hit to the equation.Quote:
Originally Posted by muzz
I just wish they didn't tweak and OC so well or I'd just walk away from them. But, there isn't anything out there that comes even close to what I need out of a board. Such a shame.
Thats the only reason I haven't left them yet.
I am not a fan of Asus, cuz the worst board I ever owned ( stability wise) was an Asus.
They also tend to be very slow with updates ( even though they need them), and they don't give you sqaut for voltage options.....
I was hoping their MVP board would be better, but it's still an Asus with very limited voltage options..
I use my Ultra-D for my HTPC, cuz I need to OC like crazy if i wanna run heavy settings using FFDSHOW ( cpu eater)...
I am an AMD fan, always have been... the P4's rule FFDSHOW, so AMD chips need to be rockin' to make up the difference..
I'd hate to have to buy a P4 to do well in my htpc, I've only owned 1 Pentium chip, the original 233 mhz that i built at Computer school...
Which i fairly quickly got rid of for a 400 Mhz AMD K6-2 :D
Sorry for the OT...
Now back to our scheduled programming...
or lack of any heheheh.....any updates from DFI or anyone for that matter........or are we still watching Speed /// :DQuote:
Originally Posted by muzz
if the reset circuit for the CMOS is not connected to both the reset jumper AND the battery in series then this is likely the source of our problems.
Boards that do not have them in series can still hold their bios settings with the reset jumper set to clear, with the jumper removed, OR with it pulled to ground.
A full reset would be performed by UNPLUGGING THE PSU (from the motherboard), removing the CMOS battery, AND placing the jumper in the clear/ground position to absolutely drain all capacitors and circuits of any power left in the board while the PSU is off.. This will take a minimum of 30 seconds. Unplugging the power supply is a crucial step with this board possibly seeing as removing the battery with the psu connected can cause problems....
yeap done that plenty of times already and didn't kill anythingQuote:
Originally Posted by STEvil
Wow, I'm way behind on reading since my last post, no thanks to my Deutsch final. Saaya, I kicked ass man...Ich lerne gern Deutsch! :D :D
Back on topic. If its true that DFI are playing games with regards to this whole CMOS battery thing, then they ought to to be reported to the BBA. This is BS. What kind of crap is that? I will not mince words here. If thats what they told mike (he is one heck of a patient dude!), it is absolutely unacceptable! This is shocking stuff.
On this whole CMOS Clearing issue with the NF4 Ultra D/SLI DR, I believe the very mention of the fact that the PSU Cable has to be unplugged says something about how the CMOS is discharged (none-too flattering if I may add).
Where the heck do the capacitors/CMOS discharge to???
Logically, all discharging is done via GND (Ground). Now, this would imply the Mobo GND (both digital and analog) are FLOATING! Now, a FLOATING GND by itself is not a problem and is quite often used without issues, discharging is always via the true GND. Unless they are single point tagged to the supply GND (which is the true GND going to your building's GND pit), its not good for noise performance and other conditions. The charge should dissipate in a matter of milli/micro-seconds, given that there are no huge capacitors on the CMOS.
Now, I have personally waited for > 30 min in one case to discharge the CMOS. To me, this points to a horrible design, where charge has to be dissipated by AIR, since the power chord is unplugged. Since then, I left the Power chord on, but turned off the supply (surge protector), so my GND pin is still connected to the true GND. It takes about 5-10 min.
Discharging via a "bleeder" resistor with small caps should take micro-seconds or less! I don't know what the deal is with their design.
if i got it right what killed the boards, according to dfi, was that people removed the battery and did NOT set the jumper to reset. does somebody understand how this could kill the board?Quote:
Originally Posted by STEvil
hmmm so usually theres a cap used that sucks the remaining charge so the cmos is left without any power and all data gets reset to default, right?Quote:
Originally Posted by Super Nade
10min is still pretty long if you ask me...
In brief, this alone cannot and should not kill a board. It simply doesn't make sense. I cannot see how this could kill a board. A CMOS battery alone does nothing, even if its being used as a unipolar device (-tve as GND), I don't see how removing the CMOS battery could kill anything. :confused:Quote:
Originally Posted by saaya
I'm sure several engineers who are a lot more qualified and intelligent than I am, at DFI are looking into this. Hope the can tell us why the battery seems to be the problem?
There has to be some mechanism of actual discharging. So, what happens to the charged cap? Its still live and can hold charge for several years (believe me, I've been shocked like hell when I had an old Television Cap discharge on me!). Why hold the charge when it can be bled off? I have NEVER had this problem with my ASUS A8V. Reset was almost instantaneous. No need to jump through hoops.Quote:
hmmm so usually theres a cap used that sucks the remaining charge so the cmos is left without any power and all data gets reset to default, right?
10min is still pretty long if you ask me...
my guess is it may be a wiring/pcb fault.. somewhat like boards that do not have a choke and capacitor near the 4-pin P4 connector or 6/8pin that some have now.
Can give a thumbs up to split rails for causing problems there.
Why do you think its the split rails?
Also, what do the chokes do? Are the mini-isolation transformers?