mmmm purdy heheheQuote:
Originally Posted by ozzimark
if the ihs was soldered/welded to the core instead of just some TIM then it would actually work really well
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mmmm purdy heheheQuote:
Originally Posted by ozzimark
if the ihs was soldered/welded to the core instead of just some TIM then it would actually work really well
As far as I know transistor counts for the Venice are identical to Winchester, so as far as size goes, the 512kb dies shouldn't be any different. And ozzimark linked to some pics of the 1mb Turion dies, which should be the same size as the San Diegos.
I intend to if I get one.
How do you take it off? Is it easy to damage the chip if you do? I mean in the process of doing so.
Check the sticky thread on it in Best of AMD
I cut the heatspreader off anything I get into my hands. :cool:
Don't like them.
Here are some pics of "naked" NewCastle/Winchester/Venice cores.
http://www.planet3dnow.de/vbulletin/...d.php?t=175268
(first posting in the thread)
The Venice looks like that
http://home.arcor.de/xxmartin/A64_38...nice_naked.jpg
Martin
hey martin i have your 3500+ newcastle under my prommi atm.
i can't find the hs - for myself i had no problems when using "normal" cooling without hs but a selfmade prommi kit and a cpu without hs is no good.
it's running after 3 days of working, checking evap position, a little bit less sealstring...checking position, be carefull not to crack the die, scratched an edge, still running, but man this was the hardest i ever did since i started building computer systems.
still problems with over zero temps on =/>1.7V vcore....its hard to get enough contact on that small die without destroying it but with enough isolation on an standard mach I evap...the pipe to the evap turns as it wants so you always have a pressure against the best position - really nothing for cpu's without hs...
That heat speader is hard to take off. I used a razorblade and worked at it for about 15minutes in and all still can't get the darn heat speader off. I ended up snapping the razor when trying to prey it off. Maybe more of you are more talented at the heat speader removal art form or I might be just too nervous compared to many of you. On the other hand I'm having to work at it with my chip in the socket still cause my chip doesn't want to come out. I have a good gap I cut in the one corner and cut the glue a bit along all sides but it wasn't enough yet.
Update, I've been trying to the the IHS off for about 40 minutes now still no luck. That thing is glued on pretty good.
Oh sorry I needed updated my sig. I have an AMD64 Winchester 3200+ CPU.
With my old 3500+ Newcastle the temp dropped 10 ~11 degrees loaded. On my old winchester 3200+ it dropped 8~9 degrees. With the newcastle I gain 10~20 Mhz..with the winchester 70~80Mhz....Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamo
Well I broke down and striped off the IHS. It just had to go.
It came off easy. Nice sharp razor blade and 2 mins. later it was naked. And to my horror there was no TIM contact with the cpu in the center. the center of the slug was bare. ( shakeing head )
Had to make up some shimes to remount the sink with good pressure, abit of as5 and we are back in the game. Add'ed another 45 mhz oc to it with the same 1.60 volts.
Its been folding for about 30 mins. and the temps have droped on the cpu by 6c. Was at 44c and now bouncing between 37c and 38c.
Ive been cycling the speed of the fan on the hyper 48. turn fan down to its lowist setting and saw 48c the first time. Then cranked it back up to high. Temp went down to 40c. Cycled it once more and now down to 38c. Room temp hasnt changed more than 2 tenths of a degree.
http://www.psyshack.com/a64naked.jpg
This move may very well pay off good.
i riped the heatspreader of my sandiego 3700 and before mod my temps were 56c in prime 95 and it failed in 5 minutes and after temps are 42 and it passes prime all night long. this is at 9x300 with 1.65 volts. i think my heatspreader had bad contact or something because i didnt expect that improvement!!! im using a dfi and watercooling btw
________
SATANISM, THE CHURCH OF SATAN ADVICE
New case badge!!
http://www.psyshack.com/li1.jpg
http://www.psyshack.com/li2.jpg
Quote:
Originally Posted by psyshack
Haha !!.. thats cool.. :toast:
I'm gonna try to remove HS this weekend...What have to do ?
Careful for what ? I have DFI NF4 and 7000B-AlCU.
As soon as i get some zerex for my watercooling im gonna install it and do the IHS at the same :D
Right now I can do 295x9 1:1 real stable at 1.6v but anything over that gets alittle unstable
First time I took my heat sync off my cpu, my cpu came out of the socket with my heat sync. Of course I put my cpu back in and put the heat sync back on to find my cpu is stuck in the darn socket... this is a new 939 motherboard, if I can't get my current working CPU out in the future I guess I'll need a new motherboard to ever run a dual core cpu. Also I've been trying to get my IHS off but it's pretty hard to do when my cpu is stuck to the board and there's not enough room around the socket to work a razor blade around the edges of the IHS to get it off.
I would be getting the cpu out of the socket before any razor action. Then look over you shiming options and how you going to get the hs back on.
Its not uncommon for a cpu to come out with the hs. I dont like it. but with a IHS and proper TIM application it happens
A cpu stuck in the socket,, now thats strange.
I removed my IHS.
Was i getting a good contact between CPU and IHS?
What is the best thermal paste to use? I used the one that came with my Zalman CNPS7000B. Is this a good one?
Well I got the CPU out of the socket and got the IHS off but my temps went up. I guess I just can't win... should of left mine on in my case. I put the ISH back on top of the CPU but temps are always higher with the retail or the Hyper6 I have.
Update, I shaved down a bit of the rubber left on the IHS and my temps are slightly better than they were in the first place. It looks like I need my IHS on to get the best temps but I added artic silver 3 between the core and the IHS.
my load temp is only about 1-2C lower but that is at standard voltage... well test higher voltage after. But with a load temp of 40C after running prime95 for about 10 minutes isn't bad using air cooling
The problem is my OC lowered :(
Can this be because of not enough pressure on the core?
Please look at the picture in my previous post and tell me what do you think about contact :confused:
My overclocked lowered as well but I believe this is because the heat sync isn't making full proper contact and my temps went up. I had to put the IHS back on in order to get proper cooling but I had to level up the bottom of the IHS but evening the rubber first in order to get good cooling once again.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ref
I can't believe how heat sensitive these .09um process cores are when it comes to overclocking.
I have 0.13 um core.
So you just put the IHS on the core with some thermal paste on the core? and then mounted the heatsink?
And you got better OC than before you removed the IHS ? :cool:
Hopefully they run cool :)Quote:
Originally Posted by cu2day
Yep you got it. I can now overclock on average per voltage/clock ratio about 50Mhz more. I was hoping I wouldn't need the IHS but the core is so small that the slightest weight shift from direct center makes a big difference in the temperature department. if I run about 5C hotter my overclock drops by about 70Mhz. I need actual R134 cooling, than I'll see some nice gains with how much the smallest temperture changes affect overclocking.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ref
How exactly did you put the IHS back?
is it worth it to buy some better thermal paste? e.g. Arctic Cooling MX-1 ?
I never heard of that thermal paste. I know of Artic silver 1 through 5. 5 being the best of them all. Getting the best thermal paste is always a good investment if you like your equipment to run the coolest possible.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ref
I only placed the IHS back on the center of the CPU no glue or anything with the case flat to the floor. My backet is a custom one that comes with my Coolermaster Hyper6 which allows very little side to side movement so their is little risk of moving the IHS out of place.