Quote:
Originally Posted by TEDY
Cool them :)
Well KHX have the worst heat spreaders anyway, they should be taken off
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TEDY
Cool them :)
Well KHX have the worst heat spreaders anyway, they should be taken off
My KHX stick is just fine @ 3.9v :banana4: , but yeah, remove heatspreaders and let a 92mm pass some air over the chips..
Min don't like anything >3.56V :(
But they are doing 270 superpi 32m stable with 3.54V (3.5V bios DFI NF4). :D
ive given my CH5 4v burning in for 60+ hours. it was KHX3500 and i took off the heatspreaders and attachted coolermaster memory heatsinks on each chip and a fan.
And what were the results? Burn marks on the chips!? :DQuote:
Originally Posted by enzoR
Did it gain you anything?
/edit.
Must have errored horribly!!! :hehe:
well the CH5 hit a wall on my i875 at 255mhz from 3.6v onwards. timeings didnt matter so it wasnt the chipset, just incompat problems. so i decided to burn it in at 255 4.0v for 1 h and was fine! no errors at all and not even warm. tried 4.2 aswell got abit warm :p: and tried 4.5v, got 10 errors per test5 pass. i didnt have the guts to burn in at 4.2 for extended time as the pcb did get abit warm and i thought i might damage the SMD caps so i let it burn for 60+ hours at 255, 4.0v, 2.0vtt. Didnt gain anything but give ME balls. max overclock stayed the same didnt degrade at all. still running strong at 3.7v 255mhz 2-2-2-5 24/7 crunching d2ol. winbond sure makes tough chips!
I definatly need new chipset cause this stuped n² isn't willing to go past 245 dual channel, BH-5 or BH-6, doesn't make much difference, the BH-6 even goes higher in DCDDR :mad:
KHX, is for Kingston? :stick: are we talking about old BH-5? really confused here.
i was thinking on doing the same job that enzoR did on mine TwinMOS UTT.
but i had to remove the stickers first... good or bad idea? i mean those with PN code, Twinmos logo and another one that i dunno why it's there on the middle of the stick.. maybe some control sticker from the shop.
Kingston Hyper X. no need to remove stickers i think. what i did was already overkill enough. well if u remove them its obviously better but no warranty but sending back dead stick u put 4.5v though is wrong. I think its safe for me to say that they wont die from teh V's anyway.
then again... if u don't remove the stickers, they will be hiden by the heatsinks... and RMA wise, i think u would want to remove the heatsinks before sending the sticks, right?!... so u would tear the stickers apart anyway. :(
I removed the hs from mij single sided KHX pc3200 without any problems, just remove the 2 clips, and usa something soft like a plastic screwdriver and the hs will come loose... when the stick needs to be RMA'd, just put them back on, clips on it, en no one will see the difference..Quote:
Originally Posted by enok
his ram doesnt have heatspreaders. In that case enok, if you think removeing the heatsinks will tear the stickers, may aswell remove the stickers cuz if you remove a heatsink for whatever reason you wont be able to use it again.
I hope you know that this constitutes as fraudulent return of merchandise.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rub87
Quote:
Originally Posted by Forum Policies
i think u understand my dilema here, enzoR. :P
puting heatsinks will blow my waranty either way...
Ah... warranty... who needs it!!! ;)
Clocks do matter, slap on the sinks, mate! :lol:
Seriously, who cannot afford (or doesn't want to afford) new ram, should better leave it stock as is... but overclocking voids warranty as well most of the time! :D
Dont bother, just sell the KHX off and get some Twinmos SpeedPremium.
I need to sell of my 2x512M BH5 KHX3000's, 2G's of Twinmos will do me just fine.
Hmm, conrad, most of us don't have the money to buy al the latest stuff to keep up, no, we buy average hardware and try to get the last out of it, when the hardware dies and it's RMA'able I RMA it...
And who says removing the heatspreaders will void warranty?? There is on the sticker: removing voids warranty, thats ment on the sticker, not the heatspreaders :p
The sticker overlaps the retention clips for the heatspreaders. You must, therefore, remove the sticker in order to remove the retention clips. By doing so, you have automatically voided the warranty.
This has absolutely nothing to do with having the money to purchase the latest hardware. I have brought this issue to your attention because post #288 is basically your instructional method on how to deceive a manufacturer when returning a product.
Please do not push this issue any further.Quote:
Originally Posted by Rub87
Hmm, ok, but over my clips wasn't a sticker...
I haven't said in the post that you need to do this when you sticker overlaps te clip, I just said that on my sticks the sticker does not cover one of the 2 clips so theoretically I didn't void the warranty..
Sorry for the of topic..
Does anyone know wheren in Germany/UK there sticks are for sale?
And you wonder why we can't afford the latest hardware... Maybe all the hits manufactures take because of fraudulent RMA's... Hmmmmm
yep. fraudulent RMA's just raise the retail price for all of us.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rub87
At oc-wear.de for example... :)
Just ordered 2 sticks of twinmos SP 256mb from newegg.Hope these are the right ones.Will compare them with 2 sticks of geil pc 3500 ultra.Will show my results same day they get in.Fingers crossed.THx for the find in advance
Hi,
I have been reading throught this thread and still cant find out if this stuff you call "BH5" is "real BH5" or not. Some people refer to it as UTT, some as BH5. Now I noticed that you say its made using 130nm technology. How can it be BH5 then?
I have simple questions:
1) Is it exactly the same thing as old BH5?
2) If not, can it do what the old BH5 can do if you refer to similar scenarios?
3) Is old BH5 better?
I see no point in running my RAM at 3.6v, I see alot of you are doing this, is this because it cant do waht old BH5 can do at similar voltages. I know old BH5 love voltage but you never needed to pump 3.6v through it to get it to perform well.
Im a bit confused here as I feel Twinmos is calling it BH5 for marketing purposes. As far as I know the C in CH5 stands for 130nm manufacturing technology and the B in BH5 stands for 180nm technology so how can it be called BH5 if its been made using 130nm?
check this out ;)
http://www.ocforums.com/showthread.p...2&page=2&pp=30