You should see Cryo-tek's "foamer"....no hand mixing required if I remember correctly....the machine does the mixing for you :woot:Quote:
Originally Posted by mytekcontrols
Printable View
You should see Cryo-tek's "foamer"....no hand mixing required if I remember correctly....the machine does the mixing for you :woot:Quote:
Originally Posted by mytekcontrols
Co2 = dry ice
r23 = pricey
What about Ethane NoL, or is that too expensive? I was told in the UK it's a similar price to Ethylene :( .
Hmmm around here its $35 a lb but I need to find a place to get it, it might be a very good alternative after all.
here in austria:
R23: 8kg - 260€
R170: 10L bottle, 200bar, 99.5% - 260€
R744: 10kg - 23€
Yeah and you can never buy a small quantity sadly :(
yes i hate that too! otherwise i would get hold of 2kg R23 and a bit R14!
I think this is the main problem with these designs. Who is going to whip out 500 euros to buy 3 tanks of quite pricey refrigerants to experiment with?
Im just about to try an autocascade but Im using what I have here, R23 + Propane. I have R402, R404a and R22 also but hear from Luke that he finds Propane works the best in a normal 2 stager.
Any suggestions on what I have? Compressor is 1hp R410a Rotary with matching condensor.
Noob, luckilly R23 is pretty cheap over here. Jin tells me that in the US its the most expensive. Over here R116 is rediculously expensive. Over in the US R116 is cheap.
No Dry ice problems while using Co2 when you will have good amount of co2/propane inside system.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
another way to prevent dry ice problems is using second captube to evap, with liquid propane. It will flush dry ice from evap.
add a stage with r600 or something to "purify" the r290 from the r23 before it condenses.Quote:
Originally Posted by johann
@godmod, r170 is a liquid in the bottle so it isn't 200bar. (might be helpfull to calculate how much ethane really is in the bottle.)
At first glance R116 looks like a good substitute for R23:Quote:
Over in the US R116 is cheap.
R116 boiling point = -79C
R23 boiling point = -82C
However its freezing point needs to be taken into consideration if you plan on building a system to run much colder then -90C:
R116 feezes at -94C
R23 freezes at -155C
Very good question. I suspect that some argon would dissolve into R1150 at the temperatures you described, but it wont be much, and therefore the percentage used as part of your charge should be very small. Adding too much will simply raise your compressor's discharge pressure, without adding any appreciable performance benefit.Quote:
Argon is normally said to begin saturating liquids at around -115C as far as I've read. R1150 boils at -104C, do you know if argon will still saturate even a little bit into a liquid in the -90C range. Ethylene is a much better gas for some to use because its much cheaper and easier to find then r14 which is incredibly expensive.
If it's what I think it is, it certainly wouldn't be in the price range for the occasional user :eek: But if a person is doing a lot of chiller production, having a spray foam machine is the only way to go.Quote:
You should see Cryo-tek's "foamer"....no hand mixing required if I remember correctly....the machine does the mixing for you
At the place I occasionally do contract repair work on used Polycold units, they have a system as you described which is provided by a company called InstaPak.
So r116 has similar problems to that of co2, hmmmm...
I wish these suppliers would sell smaller quantities!
Hi there @ all! ;)
New drawing of my first auto-c .... I hope it'll work! :D
A few parts are already here @ my place, others will be here in the next weeks! :)
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/5949/planyo1.png
regards
-404
EDIT: Can I also use a SMALL shot of R740? What do you think? :)
As far as I know the AE1420Z has only 1/2HP
And why not run the subcooler inline with the evap to receive flow in an inline fashion?
You will got problems with that compressor, for sure rotarys are the best for autocascades...
With that aspera it could not hold any load
@ cold_ice: CAE2420Z (as far as I know = same model) : motor power = 547W
That would be more than 1/2 HP I think! ^^ :)
@ noob: I don't know what you mean for sure but I THINK you mean it that way? :D
http://img120.imageshack.us/img120/6770/planww0.png
(cap @ sub-cooler is wrong!!)
@ LukeXE: Why do you think so? In s7e's auto-C, there is also a L'Unité comp used (NO rotary!) ^^ :)
But I can also get small R134a rotarys with ~ 1/2HP @ 50Euros each! ^^ :)
I think that because I tried two times with that kind of compressors (more than 1/2HP) and still no succes. Idle temperature was OK, but load...better results on normal SS...
But try, try, maybe your unit will finally work, I hope !
for autocascades big displacement compressors are a big plus it doesn't really matter what kind of compressor it is.
Yes I agree with this observation. Basically you need to reverse the orientation of the "Evap Return" connection and the subcooler captube. So... in other words, you need the subcooler captube to feed into the suction side at the top of the subcooler heat exchanger, and the "Evap Return" to tee into the suction between the bottom of the subcooler, and the top of the cascade. Remember the subcooler only works if it is isolated and doesn't directly see the heated gases returning from the Evap.Quote:
(cap @ sub-cooler is wrong!!)
you could also just cancel the subcooler cap tube and make the cap tube to the evap a little shorter so that you get floodback from the evap into the subcooler.
can you explain a bit more? i got a bit comfused :)Quote:
Originally Posted by mytekcontrols
@ mytek:
Do you mean it that way? :)
http://img179.imageshack.us/img179/5949/planyo1.png
Yeah he does I didnt even think of that it might want to avoid heated gas from the evap, but that seems 100% logical!
Actually I was thinking of something like this.