[Project] :::Flow::: (SNiiPE's V2110) - Resurrected

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Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG

well I happen to have a garage full of high quality photo backrounds at my disposal ;) not as easy to maintain but certainly about 12' wide :p:

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Nice. I guess it helps when you've been into photography as an active interest for more than 5 days. :) I guess I'll have to be patient and continue to investigate wider laminate type backgrounds, I don't think I'm a fan of any of the free hanging cloths.

Can't wait to see what you come up with. ... so I can plagiarize you of course. :D

EDIT: I hope you don't mind SNiiPE, but I wanted to share one of the ideas I've been having for a photographic background. I was thinking it would be neat (especially for end of build photography) to take a 7-8 hour exposure, on a crystal clear star filled night, with the camera positioned below the case, angled upward, creating that circular star tracer effect for a background. I guess for the effect to be perfectly circular you would have to aim the camera directly at the north (or south) star and a subtle red lighting or only the build's lighting depending on what one wanted to achieve. ... Anyway, I have no idea how to take exposures for that length of time. (tell me if this is to OT and I'll delete). :)

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Originally Posted by xaxis

I was thinking it would be neat (especially for end of build photography) to take a 7-8 hour exposure, on a crystal clear star filled night, with the camera positioned below the case, angled upward, creating that circular star tracer effect for a background.

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That's going to look REALLY awesome:p: If he doesn't stay up all night with his camera, the camera might get jacked:rofl:
Also, if it takes 7 hrs to expose, then it will take another 7 hrs to process. It's almost a DAY:eek:

that sounds like a really cool photo concept man :) like Ikiller says the time to shoot that picture would be enormous and very hard to expose correctly :yepp: I do however have a program that is insanely good for stripping items out of photographs and setting them on another ;)

oh and btw I don't mind OT in this thread at all :up:

But, xaxis, the matrix of the camera would get hot very quickly and you'd get a lot of noise on the pictures, unless you've got a FC block for C5Dmk2 :D
It would be more possible if you'd made exposures like 15minutes, and then stack them. And if Ian would position camera at the North Star it would take looong time, it would be better to shoot at the edge of the Earth, ( hope you understand me, I mean not at the North Star but at the edge of planet, ) because then the stars rotate faster, and it would not take 24hrs to make a full circle, but much less time. Like this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/_belial/3627855977/

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Originally Posted by lkiller123

That's going to look REALLY awesome:p: If he doesn't stay up all night with his camera, the camera might get jacked:rofl:
Also, if it takes 7 hrs to expose, then it will take another 7 hrs to process. It's almost a DAY:eek:

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I live in a remote enough location where the it's unlikely anyone would steal the camera. Plus I would place the setup on the roof of my shop and likely be working in the shop all night anyway.... would have to be a pretty crafty/telepathic thief to get my camera. :)

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Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG

that sounds like a really cool photo concept man :) like Ikiller says the time to shoot that picture would be enormous and very hard to expose correctly :yepp: I do however have a program that is insanely good for stripping items out of photographs and setting them on another ;)

oh and btw I don't mind OT in this thread at all :up:

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Thx SNiiPE. As I continued to research photography (my newest official hobby on my list of hobbies - which is an actual list) I think I came across a few other stumbling points in addition and adjunct to what you mentioned.
Noise. Although I do believe the 5D Mark II does have automatic dark frame subtraction when long exposure noise reduction is turned on, you're right: using a computer program would be far easier. The problem it seems with noise reduction enabled is for every exposure an equal length dark frame is required. This isn't a problem I think if you're only taking one exposure but if you were taking multiple pictures, computer dark frame subtraction can serve all of the exposures with just one dark frame (saving one a lot of time).
When it comes to focus, which to properly shoot the stars in crisp detail you would set to infinity? Would this make the build itself completely blurred? If so I was thinking the solution would be to use chroma key backgrounds (green screen best?) to super impose the picture into a long exposure shot of the stars... Though, personally I wouldn't want a computer just floating in "space" so I would put the chroma key background just behind the build and beneath it use black formica laminate, then use computer effects to blend the transition so the build has an anchor in the "real" that ends in the "surreal". Then again, that's a lot of work when... (read below).

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Originally Posted by R0bert

But, xaxis, the matrix of the camera would get hot very quickly and you'd get a lot of noise on the pictures, unless you've got a FC block for C5Dmk2 :D
It would be more possible if you'd made exposures like 15minutes, and then stack them. And if Ian would position camera at the North Star it would take looong time, it would be better to shoot at the edge of the Earth, ( hope you understand me, I mean not at the North Star but at the edge of planet, ) because then the stars rotate faster, and it would not take 24hrs to make a full circle, but much less time. Like this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/_belial/3627855977/

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I agree, a cold night would be ideal for keeping temperatures down though I don't believe to many hot pixels would become a problem with minor cooling efforts on a night below 70 degrees F. Also, again, you're right: Pointing at the north star would of course not make a complete circle of stars behind the build. A shot aimed with the horizon as a reference point (or slightly there above) would indeed create a very cool effect, but I was just assuming for this kind of thing one would use an ultra wide angle lense so even when aimed at the north star you would still capture quite a bit of tracing from peripheral stars.


(below): With all that said, I think the coolest approach would be to create an extended time lapse, motion background. This evades the hurdles of super long exposures, makes it so you don't have to do as many computer tricks, and looks way cooler than simply recording a non-time lapsed video! Which for end build log photos especially (if not exclusively) would be extremely cool/worthwhile. To add to things, I would put the camera itself in a slowly revolving "orbit" around the case so while the star and horizon positions are moving in their awesome time-lapse fashion so could the build itself: one could show off the entirety of the build along a completely different axis or possibly multiple changing axis! Timing things so the end of the video the sun began to rise would be pretty nifty too! I don't know if that was very clear but the thought I have in my head seems like it could create beautiful results! Okay, I said way more than enough (as usual). ;) :p: :yepp:

Jesus, xaxis, you're working at Hollywood or smth? :D
Cool efect would be if Ian would use a fish-eye lens, because then he would be able to capture the Milky Way, yay.
( I just couldn't resist rhyming )

wow, I'm baffled :p: Wil I think this should be your photo concept and not mine :D thats the great thing about art (photography) if you've got an idea you just go with it, cant wait to see you get going with photos :up:

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Originally Posted by xaxis

I live in a remote enough location where the it's unlikely anyone would steal the camera. Plus I would place the setup on the roof of my shop and likely be working in the shop all night anyway.... would have to be a pretty crafty/telepathic thief to get my camera. :)

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After I read your idea, I went through Flickr and saw some long exposure pictures. Some did 15 minutes and it is enough already:rolleyes: If it's me, it would be impossible to do this kind of shooting since I live in LA and air pollution is a problem:eek: I will have to go all the way up to the mountains to do this kind of shooting:shrug:

But 15 minutes is just a little movement, it won't have the REALLY BRIGHT effect which the sky is filled with circles.

Very nice Sniipe DoGG.. Your 4890 CS setup is awesome.. And not to mention a nice photo setup with camera... I myself am trying to think of a setup big enough for the case shot with my 5D.. Subscribed :up:

Hi guys :) thanks Lu(ky :)

I went shopping today.... got a new floor for the V2110 :wasntme: :up:

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/2986/unicorn0005.jpg

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/9307/granite0007.jpg

excellent pics :up:

S_D are you going to paint that GT fan blade? If you do, tell me what you used and if it works, I want to turn by exhaust one black

how are those huge RAMsinks gonna work when the RAM slots are so bloody close together?

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Originally Posted by Quixylvre

how are those huge RAMsinks gonna work when the RAM slots are so bloody close together?

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:welcome: Quixylvre :)

the enzotech unicorn kit has 3 different size spreaders 2x 10mm 2x 3mm and 4x 1mm so I put the 1mm on the inside of the ram sticks and the 10mm on the outside :up:

@miller: yes I will paint the blade, I will obviously keep everyone informed on that progress :) that particular blade is from an 800rpm I bought when first evaluating the GTs (before martins tests) I lost the collar for the fan shaft so unfortunately that one will never spin again >.<

Sweet, will be looking forward to that, I love those fans, got 4 of the 1850s in my case now, but that gray blade isn't the greatest looking thing in the world. Those things would be perfect if that blade was black :up:

BTW xaxis, R0bert, and Ikiller here is some reading material for you guys my dad found for you: http://www.on-sight.com/2009/05/29/5...photography-2/

He reads the thread and all of this photography stuff so he is following along with your questions :)

Please tell your Dad "thanks for the link," S_D. :up:

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Originally Posted by SNiiPE_DoGG

the enzotech unicorn kit has 3 different size spreaders 2x 10mm 2x 3mm and 4x 1mm so I put the 1mm on the inside of the ram sticks and the 10mm on the outside :up:

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Only issue I can see with that is the potential of the front and back banks of chips on each RAM module not being cooled evenly, which could lead to some aspects of performance winding up slightly wonky. I've been wrong before on that kind of stuff, though.

On a different note, Imagine what this system would do if you were phase-change cooling that CPU or a TWKR on that mobo with QUAD watercooled 4890s and such... :hrhr:

that'd even be faster than this guy!
:sonic:

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Originally Posted by Quixylvre

Only issue I can see with that is the potential of the front and back banks of chips on each RAM module not being cooled evenly, which could lead to some aspects of performance winding up slightly wonky. I've been wrong before on that kind of stuff, though.

On a different note, Imagine what this system would do if you were phase-change cooling that CPU or a TWKR on that mobo with QUAD watercooled 4890s and such... :hrhr:

that'd even be faster than this guy!
:sonic:

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I might be headed to an LN2 event with my amd rig this weekend so we will see what itll do under cold :yepp:

SLICK! *goes to start a thread about what system he WOULD build for himself if money were no object*

hmm...ever pondered (if you have the means to do it) snipping alternating rows of heat-sink pins on those RAMsinks so you can mesh the adjacent DIMMs' heatsinks with one another to cool them more evenly?

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Originally Posted by Quixylvre

hmm...ever pondered (if you have the means to do it) snipping alternating rows of heat-sink pins on those RAMsinks so you can mesh the adjacent DIMMs' heatsinks with one another to cool them more evenly?

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that might be able to provide a cooleffect on an intel setup but on this amd board the modules are so close together I can only use the 1mm heatsinks on the inside and the 10mm on the outside and it ends up looking good :up:

Project status updates:
Today-
Laser cut acrylic arrives from customlasercutting.com :up: also my order of tapplastic's acrylic cement and the hypodermic applicator arrives as well.

Tomorrow- the case internals and other random bits that were silver are going to powder at a local shop early in the morning and assuming xaxis' blocks arrive at my house tonight the ramsinks and that stuff are going to nickel plating :up:

cheers and thanks for the ongoing support guys :)

-Ian

Woohoo! Looking forward for this project :) Man Have i been out for too long from this community! Subscribed!

sniipe, thanks for the link ;)
But how can i do long exposure with a camera with only 1600 ISO??

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Originally Posted by Patriote

Woohoo! Looking forward for this project :) Man Have i been out for too long from this community! Subscribed!

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Thanks Patriote! :D, your famous MM (among the older XS LCers at least) was one of the builds that really inspired me to go for aesthetics and performance :up:

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Originally Posted by lkiller123

sniipe, thanks for the link ;)
But how can i do long exposure with a camera with only 1600 ISO??

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:D I dont know, but you could try experimenting ;)



So I actually got my ass out of bed this morning at 5am and made it to the powdercoater's in Amesbury (almost NH) and then all the way down to malden (almost boston) before work at 8am :eek: I even got to work 5 minutes early :p:

I decided on a black satin finish powder for the case interior :up: pics on monday night!

I am off to race my 18 foot catamaran with my brother this weekend in maine, leaving friday morning. for those of you who have never seena beach cat race take a look at these video's - its like driving a silent race car on the water and you get to flip over too :D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4CeGAPB_dYc (a great vid, I'll maybe have some of our fleet after the weekend if the wind is good)