however everest says its at 1066?
im relatively new to this stuff obviously
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however everest says its at 1066?
im relatively new to this stuff obviously
Folks, don't worry about "memory frequency" or any other displays other than an actual benchmark and some simple math.
Actual memory frequency is simple math based on the BIOS FSB, Reference Frequency, and Memory Frequency settings. Use the spreadsheet in my sig. It's NOT variable. It is what it is.
What many programs report as "Memory Frequency" or "Memory Speed" is actually read from the memory's SPD table and that's a static table programmed at the factory. The SPD is there for 1 main reason: to allow the motherboard to boot successfully without intervention. My OCZ3-1800 sticks show up as DDR3-1333 because that's the highest entry in the SPD. Why? Because there's no motherboard or processor on the planet that can use an 1800 SPD entry and 1333 will pretty much guarantee a successful boot.
If you want to see actual memory frequency, look at Everest's "Motherboard" page. The "Memory Bus Properties" shows your actual settings.
I did that after many reboots.
I think the host clock is wrong or it's not reported right.
Quote:
Originally Posted by down8
Hey DOWN8,
Can you do me a favor and see if you can lock your multi on your Q6700 to something lower than 10 and have that reflected in Windows somewhere other than IDCC?
Would appreciate it
sean
I'll try to give that a shot today.Quote:
Originally Posted by Sean-E-Boy
EDIT: Tried disabling C1E, and lowering to 8x. It still dropped to 6x occasionally.
-bZj
Hi Pontius
Like gtj said, don't worry about that, it's only the SPD safe settings for initial booting purposes.
Sometimes manufacturers even use the same chips but higher binned to make modules of a higher speed grade, like 1066 rated chips to make 1333 modules, or enhanced latencies modules.
mpeg3s
Check that you're using the correct BIOS and IDCC versions, the latest v4.1.0.169 only works with BIOS 1554, same for earlier versions 1521 with 128 and so on. Maybe that's the problem. If you had voltage or regulator problems probably your system wouldn't work.
I'm still getting BSODs. And, I've even given up on 1600 for the RAM. It won't stable up at 1333MHz. I'm at 325.
I'm not sure whether it's the RAM or the BT, however.
-bZj
sure it will drop, but if you go under load, does it stay at 8 or jump back to 10?Quote:
Originally Posted by down8
Ah, it does stay at 8x - by "lock your multi," I thought you meant "lock your multi."
-bZj
Well finally got my board setup, and I don't get anything. No beeps, nada, just a blank screen. It was late last night, and I didn't get a chance to fully troubleshoot it - but I'm guessing my problem is one of these things....
- Stock bios revision does not recognize an E8300.
- Memory
- Try Maintence/Recovery mode jumper
if it still does not work with one stick of memory in any of the slots, or the recovery mode jumper , ill have to try using my E4300 and see if it boots it up. Did anyone need to flash before getting one of the newer wolfdales to boot up besides the e8400 ? (e7200,e7300,e8300,e8500, etc)
ok so I was looking at the temps, I have a Q9300, and from past experience the heatsink for dual cores is a perfectly fine heat sink, but man do these chips just run super hot? is that ok, it doesnt seem like it is. I guess its got me a bit worried cause I'm intending to put some more stuff and probably OC somewhat when i get a new heat sink for it. heres a page, let me know what you guys are experiencing please.
uh yeah i just read a little bit more, theres definetly something wrong... uh maybe i put the heat sink in facing the wrong direction???? would that make a difference?:shrug:
isnt the fan speed supposed to go up ?
well I got my board up and running. A few memory pulls, switched slots, configuration jumper, and battery pulls later, it finally boots :). Got Vista 32 Ultimate installed, RAID Setup, Bios flashed to 1554.
Pain in the ass, but not too bad coming from an XBX2 :)
Now to see how high I can ramp my E8300...
Hmm, doing pretty well with my DX38BT. :) :). Some little quirks initially, but I am liking it as well as my previous XBX2!
Here are some initial benches. I have not tweaked memory at all yet aside from setting the top 3 timings in the bios. I'm going to try and Orthos this overnight...
http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/6/20/80195/4GHz.jpg
I am using the
Ref: 400MHz
Mem: 1333MHz
vMem: 1.86
vMCH: 1.475
vFSB: 1.375
First off, my latency sucks, no doubt because of my timings as well as the 400MHz strap. I doubt I can hit this FSB using the 333MHz strap, but I might try it out tomorrow. Need to work on tweaking the voltages, memory, and making sure this is 24/7 stable at 471FSB / 4GHz. I think my vFSB/vMCH is a tad high? Using an Enzotech RNB-R1 NB Cooler with a 40x28mm Delta on the Northbridge
you definitely won't be able to hit a 470 FSB with the 333 strap. my 333 strap hits a wall somewhere around 440 FSB. and your hard drive speed is through the roof. nice setup.
yeah, i tried hitting 470 on 333 and was presented by a nice black blank screen :)
Still trying to get this stable and find the right blend in voltage settings. Memory is giving me very strange results. Anything above 1.78 vMem causes Orthos Blend to fail instantly even though I have active cooling over my sticks. Happens with any timings too. HD speed is using Matrix Raid with a 40GB Slice on each of my three drives on the OS Array
Ok so I got a new Heat sink and I idle about 39c, and 50 under load, which is fine, Im just curious did you guys turn off the system managed fan control setting so it runs at full all the time?
A fan controller is a great $20 investment where you will have much better control of your fans over system managed settings.
my 1.78v problem might be related to Orthos only, sincle Prime95(latest beta version) Blend seems to run fine as well as MemTest for anything over 1.78v. Very strange. Also, what is a good way to test out vFSB? Stressing the hell out of the Northbridge? vFSB should not have any effect on memory stability (vMCH moreso), but rather just to get your board booting at a higher FSB, correct?
vFSB will have a direct impact on what appears to be memory stability since the path from the processor to the memory passes over the FSB. If the vFSB is off, Prime95 will still pass the small FFTs (because they're done in the processor cache with minimal traffic over the FSB) but will fail the other tests.Quote:
Originally Posted by Miwo
ahh ok, gotcha.
I'll just stick with Prime95 Blend + HCI Memtest for Memory/System/FSB testing and Small FFTs for CPU as usual then.
How high is a safe voltage for vMCH and vFSB using Air Cooling? Running at 1.5v vMCH currently and its passing Memtest + Blend from what I can tell (passed a 6 hr overnight run). If I hit 480FSB, it makes for an even DDR1600 on the 400Ref/1333MHz Mem setting, which I feel confident my sticks can do with decent timings.
Looking pretty stable at 471FSB.....
http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/6/...#37;204ghz.jpg
Time to push the FSB more :P
So I have a question, with everything at default, at idle there is almost always a 10degree difference between cores, like 35,45,36,45,
I overclocked just to mess around and try some of this stuff out and set the multiplier so that it wont change, and upped the voltage a litte bit, and those temps became within 3-5 degrees of each other like 43, 46,44,46.
anyone have somehting similar?
anyone get the stuck sensor message from real temp if you test the sensors?
No stuck sensors but I see the same 10deg difference on my Q9300.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pontius
is it ok to just go ahead and bump my pci express freq up to 109.24?
oh and thank you!
If you're sure you're 100% stable otherwise then go for it. If not, it'll only make things more confusing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pontius
No problem!Quote:
Originally Posted by Pontius
Uhm I installed a new video card (ati HD 3870) and i got this... I dont think the video card had anything to do this but basically the IDCC registers my cpu temp at 0 or below, and the fan goes full speed, I guess Ill try reinstalling it to see if that works
well I reinstalled. same thing, IM gonna go back and check the bios...
its probably cause I'm dual booting xp 64 bit and vista ultimate..
edit, checked the bios its registering the temps of the cpu right , but the thermal margin is at 0 C, which I find odd...
maybe clearing the bios will fix?
Same issue with my 9300. If it gets too cold, the thermal margin appears to "wrap" which causes the fans to run full speed.
Screw IDCC. Use Real Temp and watch the "Distance to TjMAX".
Sweet!!
Is there any way to adjust the fan speeds though? if not being too cold is an ok problem by me
I'm finding 2x2GB Sticks a little tough to work with, since I seem to need high vMCH to drive it with High FSB + Low Timings. Right now, my memory is running at 1.78v, 1610MHz, 7-6-6-19 CR1 using the 400 Ref / 1333MHz setting. Trying to get this rock stable at the moment. I'm running 1.58v through the Northbridge according to Everest +2.5v readout (1.65v setting in BIOS). Seems a little high, but my heatsink is only a hint warm. How many volts do you all feel comfortable shoving down the x38, granted temperatures are still cool? :)
Yeah, right now IDCC is the only windows based too for adjusting fan speeds now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pontius
2 x 2g should be no more trouble than 2 x 1g. Same strain on the NB. Way too much on the NB even if it's not putting out much heat. I've never run more than 1.45 (BIOS). What's your vFSB and what's tRFC set at? Try raising tRFC into the 70's or 80's and raising vFSB slightly to compensate.Quote:
Originally Posted by Miwo
Just did a little digging around and I found this from an Anandtech review on an Asus X38 board:Quote:
Originally Posted by gtj
Certain instabilities arose when running Northbridge voltages in excess of ~1.75V, caused by high internal die temperatures because of the voltage. Simply lowering VMCH was enough to return to stable operation. We've also found that the X38 chipset is far more sensitive to heat than any other Intel chipset to date. In fact, the BIOS is kind enough to warn the inexperienced user that Northbridge voltages in excess of 1.75V require a more effective cooling solution as the stock heatsink and heatpipe assembly can only do so much.
If that is the case, then Intel is conservative with the 1.7v maximum vMCH. If Asus users can get away with 1.75v on a dinky rollercoaster heatpipe cooler, I see no reason that I can't with Active cooling + Enzotech NB Heatsink. :) . A quick search on the forums show many x38/x48 users running higher vMCH for their DDR3 as well.
I just passed an 8 hour Blend session without any problems on 483MHz FSB, running 400Ref/1333Mem. Comes out to about 1609MHz on the Memory @ 7-6-6-19 . tRFC was at 60, but I think I may bump it back to the stock 74 and see if I can lower my vMCH volts a little bit.
vMCH is at 1.65v Bios (1.58v idle / 1.56v load in Everest)
vFSB is at 1.375v
First of all, thanks to the mod/admin who finally validated my account after the 2nd try. The first one got declined somehow, and contacting the webmaster or fugger was useless as no one replied my email.
Now, onto the real deal:
I've been having some problems overclocking my system. I think I might know what the problem is but, seeing as some of you managed to get some decent clocks, I think I'm not understanding some of it. Below is what I have:
Motherboard: Intel DX48BT2
CPU: Intel Core 2 Quad @ 2.4 GHz (Q6600 G0)
CPU Cooler: Thermaltake Max Orb (http://www.compusa.com/applications/...1636&CatId=493)
RAM: 4 x 1 GB PC10600 1333MHz DDR3 (http://www.compusa.com/applications/...375&CatId=3361)
PSU: Thermaltake PurePower 600w (http://www.compusa.com/applications/...372&CatId=1483)
Video Card: ATI Radeon HD 3870
HDD: Hitachi 320 GB 7200 rpm
The case has both a rear and a front fan controlled by a Ultra Fan Controller. The rear one max rpm is 2000 (12cm), and the front one is 4800 rpm (9.2cm). The CPU cooler fan is also 2000rpm max. So it has a nice air flow inside the case.
Now, the motherboard is running latest 1554 BIOS. So far, I have attempted several tweaks in the BIOS settings, none of them successful. So far, I managed to raise the FSB from 266 MHz to 300 MHz, making the CPU reach 2.7 GHz successfully and 4 hour Prime95 stable. Any attempt at raising the FSB beyond ~300 MHz won't post. I have disabled C1E and EIST. Enhanced Power Slope and everything else is in their default/auto settings. Memory settings are all Auto as well. Failsafe Watchdog is Enabled.
I think my problem could be either low PSU wattage (which I doubt), or the Failsafe Watchdog preventing me to clock higher for some reason (bug?).
Ambient temperature is around 85ish Fahrenheit, sometimes 90ish. No AC. At nights, it drops to 80ish, sometimes lower. I have monitored the temperature while Prime95 is torturing the CPU using EVEREST latest beta, and with all fans blowing at max speed, Core #1 rises up to 67~70 degrees Celsius. All other cores are slightly lower, and motherboard temp is around 48 degrees Celsius.
Any other stuff you guys need to know before pointing me to the right direction? I would be happy if I can make it stable at 3.0 GHz. I'll be waiting for all of your replies.
Disable Watchdog, as has been said in any thread regarding any of Intel's recent Extreme boards.
Once that's done, start playing. :)
down8, as you suggested, I disabled the Failsafe Watchdog, and increased the FSB to 333 MHz. After saving settings, the board restarted and it got stuck at nothing, no video display, although it didn't power cycled like it used to when Watchdog was Enabled. I then forced shutdown by pressing the power switch until it turned off. I waited several seconds and then I turned it back on, and it booted fine. EVEREST shows the FSB I set, raising the CPU clock to 3.0 GHz. I'm gonna Prime95 it now, and see if it's stable. I'll report back later.Quote:
Originally Posted by down8
EDIT: 8 hours Prime95 Blend: Stable, NO errors. CPU TCase Temp is between 62~65 degrees Celsius, Core #1 is between at 67~71 degrees Celsius, the other cores are slightly lower. Motherboard Temp is 46 degrees Celsius.
Prime95 Blend still going on stable and no errors.
The BT does have some quirks. Just leaving it alone, or doing a small rain dance, or bowing to the East can make the difference between a successful boot and a black screen. :D
Quick heads up on the 280 GTX with this board. Works great, but the EVGA I purchased totally blocks access to the 2 SATA ports behind the PCI Express Slot. Angled cables are still a no-go.
Now I need to grab another PCI Express SATA II card - any suggestions with success on this board ?
12+ hours of Prime95 and no errors. I guess I just needed to disable the damn Failsafe Watchdog.
Areca makes good cards. the Storage section in the General Hardware part of this forum is very helpful. and those SATA ports are the reason i probably won't buy a 4870 X2 or any of the new long Nvidia cards. i just don't wanna deal with it. Intel should have put their SATA ports horizontal like most new motherboards.Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy
well this weekend I ran prime95 twice for about 8 hours, no problems and it never got too hot, however a few days later, one of my corsair xms 3 TWIN3X2048-1333C9 died. Oh well I guess Im gonna RMA that stuff and return it to new egg ( i accidently threw out the packaging). Ill probably get some OCZ memory this round, something with a lower voltage, I was kinda uneasy from the get go at how hot that stuff ran. that stuff is so damn expensive though :P .
any advice as to what I should get ?
I wanna take advantage of the 1600 fsb but you have to OC your processor to 400Mhz?
oh and I cleared the cmos and it solved the fan speed problem
It really depends what strap and what memory divider you are running on. Check the DX38BT Calculator: http://www.peakin.com/x38/calculator.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by Pontius
if you are at 400FSB, use either 333Ref/1333Mem, or 400Ref/Mem1600 to get 1600MHz memory. 333MHz Strap is much faster than the 400MHz strap. That sucks about your ram :(
hrm I not really shure what that means.
I'm running a q9300
and I guess Im gonna just RMA that stuff, and use it until I get some more money in my bank account and get some OCZ memory (from the sound of it its the best). I really want to find a good balance of a fast system, but I really want this system to last a long time as well :P
sorry that probably didnt help, where would i look to find what that information means in that calculator, and where can I find the info I need to put into it?
ok Pontius,
I am under the impression you want to run your system at 400FSB / 1600MHz. To do that, yes, you will need to overclock the processor. To figure out which reference frequency and memory frequency to use, you need to enter 400FSB on the calculator and follow the row where your memory speed = 666MHz (since you have 1333MHz DDR3). Memory speed is derived from the Reference Frequency and Memory Freqency settings. A quick look tells me that you can either achieve this by the following settings
Host Bus Freq: 400Mhz
Reference Freq: 400Mhz
Memory Freq: 1333MHz
Resulting Memory Speed: 666MHz(*2 = 1333MHz DDR3)
OR
Host Bus Freq: 400Mhz
Reference Freq: 333Mhz
Memory Freq: 1333MHz
Resulting Memory Speed: 640MHz
For pictures, http://www.xbitlabs.com/articles/mai...-dx38bt_7.html
Both combinations will put your System FSB at 1600MHz, and your processor at 3.2GHz. The combination using Ref:400MHz is probably easier to reach, but the latter combination using Ref:333MHz will probably give you better memory timings and latency even though you will be running just short of 1333MHz. Keep in mind that the higher FSB your system runs at, the more work it is for the Northbridge. You'll probably need to increase vMCH and vFSB at a certain point, especially since you are using a quadcore.
My recommendation for you would be to start testing with REF: 400MHz, Memory Freq: 1333MHz, Host Bus Freq: 333MHz, Memory Voltage = 1.7v. You will have to adjust FSB Volts, Cpu Volts, MCH volts accordingly through Stress testing. Use Prime95 on 4 threads. If Small FFT Torture fails, you can usually solve this by bumping up core voltage. If Blend Torture fails, you can usually solve this by bumping up vFSB and vMCH voltage. Yes, it will probably take some time to figure out your ideal settings, but that is part of the fun and challenges of overclocking stuff. As you might have already noticed, the DX38BT can be finicky with memory, so good luck with that
Edit: If you don't want to OC your processor, drop the multiplier on 400FSB. 400x6.5 = 2.6GHz , a very marginal OC. Might still have to mess around with vFSB/vMCH though.
thank you so much that was extremely helpful!
np let us know how it works out
once you figure out the board, its not bad to work with like many people have said. Push to see how high you can go while being 24/7 stable :up: . The low multiplier will hurt, but you should be able to do at least 3.2GHz on 400FSB
The voltages you need to hit that are particular to your chip and board, but I would recommend you not to go above 1.4vCore air, 1.35v vFSB, 1.5v vMCH without some extra cooling or at least until you get a handle of things better. Start at host bus = 333MHz, and work your way up
ok well I just ordered some pc12800 OCZ platinum, I think those will really help, I hear they are pretty good, and should be a lot faster as well. Ill let you know how it goes once I get them in.
somebody to put a photo of dx48bt2 with one 280gtx
Hi,
I'd been gone from the forums for some time, but just last weekend picked up an Intel DX48BT2 and a Q6600. I'm glad to be using these forums as this is quite the informative thread! I was wondering if there was interest in editing a type of FAQ from the great information stored here? Of course there may be one, but I'm not finding it right away with 47 pages of posts.
But that is good, shows there's real interaction and support between all of you for this product. Hope I'd done ok with the choice.
I'll try to get one up in a day or so...Quote:
Originally Posted by g-shock
So i got my new memory and it really fast im really impressed, those corsair's sucked. anyway Ive been messing with it a little, I cant see how to put the processor at 6.5, its at 7 multiplier right now and running prime 95 blend at 400 mhz, I turned off c1e, how do I turn off EIST or whatever that is
I believe Everest is the only way.
Intel won't let you do it via BIOS or IDCC.
-bZj
hrm I see the option but I cant uncheck it? I have ultimate edition 4.50.1340 beta
hrm i actually found eist under power in the bios
that was part of the last BIOS update. we can turn it off now.
Here you go. Sorry for the bad angles, but you should get some idea of how tight the fit is. The SATA ports directly under it are completely blocked.Quote:
Originally Posted by g-shock
And no jokes about "cable management" people :) !!
http://www.acsmicro.com/acsftp/Forumpics/280g1.JPG
http://www.acsmicro.com/acsftp/Forumpics/280g2.JPG
http://www.acsmicro.com/acsftp/Forumpics/280g3.JPG
http://www.acsmicro.com/acsftp/Forumpics/280g4.JPG
http://www.acsmicro.com/acsftp/Forumpics/280g5.JPG
http://www.acsmicro.com/acsftp/Forumpics/280g7.JPG
http://www.acsmicro.com/acsftp/Forumpics/280g8.JPG
I got a good deal on a bare bones system with a DX38BT, Q6600, Vision Tek HD 4850, and 2GB of Corsair DD3 XMS3 @1333. Hoping to get it today. Will try to OC a little, but this is new to me. I'm replacing a 6.5 year old system I built in 2002 with an Asus A7V266-E, XP1800+, and Geforce Ti300. Also got Vista 64 with SP1.
Is the AC Freezer 7 Pro still considered a good HSF? I think so for the price, but not the best overall. Hope it fits.
Been reading this thread for a while now... lot's of good information. Definitely the best Intel MB forum I've seen out there. I will probably have questions as I start to OC.
-Mike
i have two 4870's in my computer now and they don't cover up any SATA ports (and they're quite a bit faster than a GTX280 when in CrossFire mode - a little faster than a GTX260 with one card running). the video cards' PCB's are as long as the motherboard, but ATI heatsink shrouds are rounded at the end and leave space for my SATA cables. i'd post pictures of my setup, but it's gotten real cramped in my Antec 900 and my formerly beautiful case is starting to look messy inside. i'm saving up for a Cosmos S 1100 right now and should have one within a month. then i'll post beautiful clean pics.
Mike, you'll want to start reading through this thread from the beginning if you want a head start. we've really covered a lot of ground so far and you could learn a lot just by brewing a fresh pot of coffee and reading through this whole thread ;)
Welcome to the asylum. :welcome:Quote:
Originally Posted by mryerse
I got a similar setup and I have that AC freezer 7, I think its pretty good. I dont feel too uncomfortable overclocking, my cpu idles at about 35 stock settings.Quote:
Originally Posted by mryerse
However I bought that same memory, sorry to break it to you but i thought it was crap, i put some OCZ pc3 1600 platinum in there the other day. HUGE improvement. Yes it costs more (60$ more) but the performance was way worth it.
Good to know about the Freezer 7. Still waiting for UPS to come by, they come late in my neighborhood.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pontius
My plan for the memory is to buy 2x2GB sticks of higher quality stuff, and sell the Corsair 2x1GB sticks. But I'll have to use the Corsair for a while until I get something new. I think it will be okay in the short term getting up to 1333 fsb. If not oh well, I'm coming from DDR 266, heh.
randy tank you for the pics
I went the crossfire route a few months back, but drivers and support were so weak, I dumped them (3870's). 3Dmark ran fine, but I had issues with every game I tried on it. What games, if any, do you run ? I was looking at the 4870's, but I just don't want to have to mess with a bunch of patches to get every game running.Quote:
Originally Posted by xMrBunglex
The gaming experience with the 280 is fantastic ( and I remember saying the same thing when Diamond released the Viper550 !).
i play mostly shooter games, so CrossFire support is excellent. unfortunately, Vista seems to get priority with their driver team now and i'm sticking with XP. it still works very well though. i put some CF screenshots up in this thread if you're interested:Quote:
Originally Posted by Randy
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...d.php?t=192785
What kind of 3dmarks are you getting ? I think I am going to grab a pair of these !Quote:
Originally Posted by xMrBunglex
very nice, crossfire 4870s on the DX38BT :)
I was thinking about a crossfire setup since I am now all done with stability tweaking / os installing / etc on my board. The only problem is that Im not sure if im prepared to be dealing with crossfire issues. I may just get one card, then vmod and overclock the crap out of it. Either way the 3870 will be retired soon :)
i'm not really set up for benching right now. i run XP so i can't use Vantage. 3DMark06 is garbage for rating video cards this fast. i did a quick run with my cards at stock and my CPU running at only 4.0 GHz. i'll do a run later with my CPU at 4.2 or 4.4 and the video cards overclocked.
http://i21.photobucket.com/albums/b2...dmarkfirst.jpg
this obviously means nothing because it's only 500 points higher than what i got with my 3870's, but these cards are about twice as fast at high resolution and settings.
Miwo, you won't need two 4870's unless you're a Crysis nut or you have a 30" monitor. a single 4870 is a lot faster than i thought it would be. i might have only bought one if i understood how fast these things really are. i have no idea what i'll do with all this power now.
yeah I know, I havn't even played Crysis yet TBH :)
I game at 1920x1080 on a 37" LCD , while it sounds like a high resolution, its really only 8% more pixels than 1600x1200 resolution. I'm still in the process of figuring out just how much memory bandwidth comes into play on the 4870 vs 4850. If its only practical under the highest resolutions, I may just be better off getting a single 4850 and vmodding it. Single card will let me use the extra space around the PCIe slots for some beefy air action like my current Accelero S1 + fans. I also want to see if the 1GB Radeons will be any better off at 1920+. Something tells me it won't be that much better since 512MB cards are already beating out the GTX260 and texture management seems to be very efficient on these
I ran into the BBY deal, and am up and running with a 4850 and H2O!
All-in-all, the water-cooling install went well. I'll get pics up soon.
Q6700 @ 3.33GHz (idles in mid-high 30*s, loads mid-50*s under a DTek Fuzion v2+Quad nozzle);
DX38BT (400/1600, NB under a Danger Den X38 block);
VisionTek HD4850 @ 690/1070 (low-high80*s => Accelero S1 soon);
Crucial Ballistix 1600@1333, 7-7-6-20-1T, 1.7V;
WD6400AAKS in a Lian-Li 80mm 2x5.25" fan bay;
MCR220 w/Yate-Loons, tucked into the bottom;
Switftech MCP655 & microres & HX620;
tubed in MasterKleer, housed in a Rocketfish!
Definitely happy with the build so far. I'm still looking forward to A) mo'-better BIOSes out of Intel, and B) cheap 2x2GB DDR3 kits.
Now I need to go figure out why my 2.5GHz E2180 loads over 80*C!
-bZj
Well I think I have some bad hardware. Either the power supply or the motherboard.
I first put everything together (whole new system), and although the mobo shows a green light indicating it's getting power, pressing the power button only causes the system to come on for about a half a second then it shuts off. While it's on there is a red light on the mobo which I think is normal anytime you power on a system but not sure. I disconnected everything one by one until all I have was the power supply plugged into the motherboard, and still getting the same thing. Current plan is to go get another power supply and test it out before RMA. Any suggestions?
Here's my DX48BT2 with a GTX 280 water coooled..
Have you tried your memory sticks individually ?Quote:
Originally Posted by mryerse
Red Light means processor overheat. If it just flickers briefly at power up, it's OK. If it stays on as long as there's power, it's NOT.Quote:
Originally Posted by mryerse
Try removing the processor and make sure that none of the contacts are shorted in the socket and that the pads on the processor are clean. Maybe the PROCHOT signal is shorted.
Also try a different processor if you can.
Got it working. Wouldn't have had a problem had Intel supplied an installation manual :)
I wasn't aware of the 8 pin power connector. I had the 24 pin hooked up, but not the 8 pin. Hooked it up and now I have Vista 64 loaded. I do feel like an idiot, but seriously, a manual would have prevented that problem.
One other problem is that my ps2 keyboard with a ps2 to usb dongle didn't work at all. So I bought a cheap kb at a store, and it works, but a couple of boots it hasn't worked. If I go into bios and don't make any changes and save and exit, it seems to work. Wierd. I set windows to not require a login so if it doesn't work again at least I'll get the desktop.
Now to install good drivers.
yeah, my USB keyboard and mouse power off while my computer boots. power comes on at the first POST screen, then turns off, then comes back on again right before Windows starts to load. my mouse never works while i'm running Memtest from a boot disk. it's very annoying.
glad to hear that you got it working! Funny, I ended up with a similar problem with my keyboard. Had all my parts, then realized there was no friggin PS/2 connector. And of course, I didn't have an adapter on hand, and BestBuy wanted $25 for it -_-. I ended up buying a USB Keyboard at the end.
I think I'm finally done grilling my Bonetrail and have found my 24/7 settings. All in all, great board for $150 once you get past the quirks, memory issues, etc. Reminds me a lot of my previous XBX2, which I had a similar experience with. Its been smooth sailing now. I am crossing my fingers for more options to play with in the future via new BIOS (hopefully they add tRD adjustment ). My memory latency seems to be a bit high, no doubt because I am on the 400/1333 strap/freq. I'm a little bummed out over my memory though, anything over 1.78v causes instant errors. I can boot at CL7 50% of the time, but in order to not run into any coldboot issues at all I need to be on CL8. Subtimings dont seem to make a difference on my sticks and bootup problems. Its a shame, they have D9GTS chips, but I guess the PCB on them can't handle marginally higher voltages. Hey, I got what I paid for I suppose, $240 for 2x2GB of SuperTalent Value sticks.
Current Progress: Vista 64bit
http://www.fileden.com/files/2006/6/...4077stable.jpg
Miwo, that screams. i think you're motivating me to go back and do some more tuning on mine. great scores on Everest and HD Tune.
Thanks MrB, couldn't have done it with the pages and pages of info from you, gtj, Tony, and a lot of other people I am forgetting :up:
Let me tell you, if we can get tRD/PL adjustment, I will be quite happy :). I don't have much more room on my CPU though since its not a particularly good chip compared to other Wolfdales, and I am on air and would prefer to stay under 1.4v 24/7. I might be able to squeeze out a few more FSB without dropping down a divider, but at the expense of timings probably. Matrix Raid was a breeze to setup and pretty damn cheap for the numbers you pull though :D
So I tried setting the fsb to 333 and mem to 1333 9-9-9-21 (should have set to 9-9-9-27 I think) without any other changes except watchdog off and e1c off, but it wouldn't boot. In fact, setting the jumper to configuration mode, or even recovery mode would not boot. Was able to get into the bios by removing the memory, powering on, powering off, and setting jumper to config mode. Without doing that, when I tried going into config mode, all I got was a solid (non-blinking) cursor in upper left. I set the memory back to automatic leaving fsb at 333 but still wouldn't boot. Loaded defaults and I'm back. Got to be a quicker way than pulling memory to get back into bios.
I think I'm going to read this thread some more before I try to OC again.
mryerse did you try starting Memory Voltage at 1.7v? Many of us had to give mem voltage a slight boost before it would post, especially at 1333+
Black Slots are supposedly better for 2 Sticks if you want to give that a shot as well
Thanks, I'll give that a shot
Is this IDCC link http://download.desktopboards.com/idcc working for anyone else?
Another unsuccessful OC.
First tried bumping FSB only. 266= default, 271 was okay, 276 booted to a screen that said corrupt files due to bad checksum. Increased core voltate to 1.3 from 1.2875 but that didn't help. Also tried 300 and 333, but those two brought me to a screen saying post failed. Maybe I should turn watchdog off and see if they'll work.
Set FSB back to 266, tried running mem @ 1333 9-9-9-27 with 1.74v (in black slots). Won't even show bios screen. bios jumper in config mode and recovery mode would not bring up bios screen. Only way I knew how to get out of that is to remove memory, boot, put memory in and now I can get into config mode to reset defaults.
Maybe this system is just not good at OC'ing, or maybe I am just not good and OC'ing.
Have you checked the DX38BT Calculator? Remember that your memory speed is calculated by your Reference Freq (Northbridge Strap), and Memory Freq.
Try this, if all goes well should give you 3GHz and 1333MHz RAM. Reference and Memory freq are in Memory Overrides menu
Host Bus Freq: 333MHz
Reference Freq: 333MHz
Memory Freq: 1333MHz
I dont think you'll need to change vFSB/vMCH/vCPU with this slight OC, but you never know. You can give it a slight bump if you want, vFSB + .05v, vMCH + .1v, vCPU + .05v
btw, If you tried to boot at 266FSB with Memory Freqency at 1333MHz, if you were on the 266MHz Reference strap this would have made your memory speed 1666MHz not 1333MHz!!!. A general rule of thumb you can follow for easy OCing is not to have your Host Bus Freq higher than an available strap. For example, don't exceed 333MHz Host on the 266Ref, 400MHz Host on the 333Ref ......until you get a handle on how your board works and responds to vMCH/vFSB increases
Calculator: http://www.peakin.com/x38/calculator.html
Son of a *** it worked :D
Thank you, you rock.
I don't fully understand the terminology yet, but I hadn't changed the ref freq, so that much have been the problem. I bumped the voltages as you recommended. Now for a stability test...
I can even tell just by using the computer it is snappier with the 25% increase.
snappier is good. that means you're either stable or much closer to being stable. my preferred stability test is Orthos. if you use it, make sure you let it run for no less than 10 straight hours. 2 hours Orthos stable does not guarantee stability. 10 hours doesn't guarantee anything either, but it's about as good as you'll get.
sweet :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by mryerse
Like I said, once you figure out the board, get past its quirks and weird terminology, its not so bad... :p
If you havn't already done so, I highly suggest you updating the BIOS to the latest revision. Tons of fixes, and you can disable C1E straight from the bios without pulling jumpers.
Good luck, happy testing. Be sure to follow the calculator so you don't start running your memory at speeds that are way too high to handle.
Yeah, I'm running 1554. It seem to be pretty stable. Stress tested all night last night and it didn't freeze. Q6600 load temps were 62-67, but it was really hot in my house (85F) and won't normally be that way. It runs at 62 under load when my house is normal temp.
I want to push a little further but am not sure where to start. Is there a guide that explains the calculator? I'd like to try a 10x multiplier at 333, the BIOS only gives 6,7,8,9 as choices. I think I saw someone has a tool that lets you change it from Windows. I tried 366FSB on the 333 strap and it wouldn't boot. Probably my memory is not able to handle that speed (1464 I think).
Unless you have a QX cpu, your multipliers are locked upwards, meaning you can only go down. Q6600 = 9x, so you have 8,7,6,Quote:
Originally Posted by mryerse
For the calculator, you enter your Target FSB speed. Type in 366 with 9x, and it will give you a readout of memory speeds with the combination of Reference/Memory frequency you choose. It reads by row, so follow the one with Ref = 333Mhz and Memory Freq = 1333Mhz in your case.
I think your Memory should be able to handle that speed fine. Once you start raising FSB, you will likely need to increase vFSB and vMCH. These are most important for getting your board stable at high FSB speeds. vFSB will help you stabilize higher FSB speeds, but you shouldn't go too high as this can kill cpus. vMCH will help you with FSB speeds as well and let you tighten memory timings and achieve memory stability.
If you dont think your memory can handle it, you can always drop down the Memory frequency to 1066MHz, which will give you a slower memory speed(refer to the calculator).
The northbridge heatsink is fairly cool to the touch. Try going up to 1.45v vMCH and 1.35v vFSB. Use Prime95/Orthos BLEND on 4 threads to test your system/fsb stability, and Small FFTs to test your cpu stability.
Thanks for all the info.
I tried 366x9@1333 on 333 ref, with voltages you recommended. Got corrupt file message. Played around with some mem timings, tried setting memory to 1066, and it just wouldn't boot. I think there's something else it's not liking. I have all voltages back to default while at 333x9@1333 and it seems to be running good. Should I increase the FSB in increments of 5 and then when it won't boot play with the voltages?
yeah that is a better idea, you usually should just do big jumps sorry :)
I have no experience clocking quads, perhaps run a search on this thread for q6600 , etc
Look at the link in my signature for the XBX2 guide. All the principles are the same, just the values are a little different.Quote:
Originally Posted by mryerse
Thanks, I'll give that a good looking over.
Do these temps seem high to you for stock cooling on the motherboard (AC Freezer 7 on CPU)? The motherboard reached 52c when I was running prime. It's about 85F in the house. Normally it's 65-75.
http://www.ryerse.com/temp/everest.jpghttp://www.ryerse.com/temp/CacheAndMemBench.jpg
That's pretty warm. I'd avoid much stress on the processor under those conditions.
agreed that it's pretty warm. fyi - i got a Scythe Mini-Kaze 40mm fan for my north bridge and i can't hear it at all. i think it was like $5 on Newegg. it's great for peace of mind.
Yeah, I need to invest in some better cooling.
This might be my next case: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...k=pc%2bp80
Maybe water cooling, or maybe some high end air cooling. Not sure. I think I'll keep this current system to minor mods and just be happy with 3GHz. I need a stable system that works all the time right now.
Hey, are you guys using the 6 pin power connector on the motherboard that is for video cards? I wasn't using it before, just hooked it up, wondering if maybe it'll help keep things stable. My system hibernated while I was gone and I had a heck of a time getting it to boot for some reason. Hadn't made any changes, just wouldn't boot. It's back up now though.
a 6-pin PCI-E power connector is NOT the same as a 4-pin ATX or 8-pin EPS motherboard connector. they are not to be mixed and matched. i hope i misunderstood what you wrote.
and you can spend $400 on your case if you want, but this $70 Cooler Master looks pretty similar to me:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16811119152