What are your ambients?Quote:
Originally Posted by dogin
Without that there's no context to your temps:)
Sounds like you've got some nice temps though!
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What are your ambients?Quote:
Originally Posted by dogin
Without that there's no context to your temps:)
Sounds like you've got some nice temps though!
Wow guy's! I have been spending all my time in the videocard section, and checking various reviews....
Great posts have been made here.... :up:
Keep up the fine job! ;)
Nice system too Zlojack! :cool:
Thanks! Did you finally score your GX2?Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
I will give all details when finish my OC'g and run the tests. A little short on time right now. Here are pics of finished system. The purple fluid comes out red with the flash, but you can see spots of real color in tubes. Still have to tighten PS wire bundle which runs out back behind mobo and comes back in under reservoir mount. Still have UV lights to install. Notice paranoia with drip tray. Putting a drain tube to an empty reservoir so if do get a leak it won't run on the floor (really to statisfy wife's concerns). Switch to a PCP&C 860W PS to give me more room with the fluid components. Also got the front window in so can see the windowed Raptors spinning.Quote:
Originally Posted by zlojack
[IMG]http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...78/IM0000J.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...78/IM0000F.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...78/IM0000C.jpg[/IMG]
Looking good.
Gotta keep the wife happy :D
Well, couldn't find anything in my spare parts to use as a NB backplate so I'm down to 2 options; fabricate one out of bar stock or go without. The widest bar stock I could get locally was 1.5". That should be real close but I would have preferred just a tad wider. I'll give it a try and see if it will work. If not I might be able to do a two-piece backplate...
I really want to use a plate, going without is not optimum.
Still waiting for the 1st, I think that is when the OC'ed GX2's get released.Quote:
Originally Posted by zlojack
I just gotta get one of thoes babies. :D
That's only a few days! With your legendary and proven patience it'll be a breeze :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
I used the plate that came with the Maximus. See my post here:Quote:
Originally Posted by wreckwriter
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...postcount=1059
http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...0a4VpKQ/06.jpg
http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...WTyGMsA/07.jpg
http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...TJiGf1A/08.jpg
You can easily push out the bolts with plyers, and widen the holes with a drill so that you can use the rubber washers that come with the Maximus and the NB hardware to mount your NB safely.
http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...0water%203.jpg
http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...er%20board.jpg
http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...%20closed1.jpg
http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...er%20open1.jpg
http://ks034g.bay.livefilestore.com/...er%20open2.jpg
I thought about that, it's the easiest and best way to go but my board has never been fired up. Should it prove DOA I'll have no RMA option if I've made the plate "unstock".Quote:
Originally Posted by deepcover
I found a piece of aluminum just a few minutes ago that will be big enough. Not quite as beefy as the stock plate but beefy enough that I can't bend it by hand. I have nylon washers so a few holes and a bit of filing and I should be golden.
In the matter of the NB i have to say that the one from MIPS require no modification so the original backplate can be used.
No problem what so ever.
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/1083/pict0149px1.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-02-20
With the EK NB S-Max, do I expect the original screws with the original backplate to be too short ? If yes, what is the threading size of the original backplate holes ?
Sharp looking rig... :up: :clap:Quote:
Originally Posted by deepcover
The originals are about 1/3 the length of the ones that came with the EK block. They are also smaller diameter. Since both are likely metric I have no clue what size they are. The EK screws appear close in size to a U.S. #4, the originals are truly tiny.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
Got mine lit up now!
[IMG]http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...8/IM000241.jpg[/IMG]
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/g...8/IM000242.jpg
Now this is dark gaming with lights out!!!
Another looker.. Good job dogin! :cool: :up:
Thanks Talonman and just to think your thread started me on this journey and everyone else on this thread was a big help (a special thanks to Malik too and although I didn't come close to his overall look, his projects inspired me)Quote:
Originally Posted by Talonman
NB 35C on load (was 57C or slightly higher on air) E6850 (@ 3.6Ghz right now) ambient 25.6C, but think with the ram cranked to 1200Hz not too bad of temps
hey guys, for installing the NB block, the order of washers and nuts is not clear on instructions. Where does the nut go? Under the motherboard it forces things to stick out too far, on top of motherboard it would seem it would damage some PCB stuff. Did you guys use the nuts at all?
The answer from EK is that it goes on top of the board. I stacked a couple nylon washers and didn't crank it down very hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by wreckwriter
Forgive me if it got answered weeks or months ago, but I am doing my best on bad eyes to read the entire post as much as I can.
Picking new Waterblock! I had my heart set on the Swiftech Apogee™ GTX CPU Waterblock/Copper Top Combo (dont have to have the copper top up front), but it has gone up in price since I last put together my build list. So if I do choose another I had in mind the D-TEK FuZion Universal CPU Waterblock EnzoTech SCW-1 Sapphire Extreme Performance CPU Water Block.
Can anybody share their experiences with these or some test review on my 2nd choices.
Also, I'm willing to stay single loop for the most part, but I am incorperating 1/4" RAM & HDD cooling next and figure I must go 2nd loop and maybe 2nd smaller rad to help out.
Building with DangerDan Water Box w/ Black Ice GTX240 (2x 120mm Syth S-Flex) & DD12V-D5 Pump Variable Speed, all on 1/2" with compression fittings. Using ASUS Fusion Block for today but aquiring Swiftech MCW30 Chipset Cooler for AMD and Intel (3/8" and 1/2")
I also plan to add meters and some other parts that may be limited to 3/8". Wich is the best method to step these up without looking too sloppy?
Thanz in advance!!!
first maximus formula wc'ing steps...
http://img182.imageshack.us/img182/9...3477vz7.th.jpg http://img297.imageshack.us/img297/4...3478nb1.th.jpg http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/2...3479bn7.th.jpg
Can't answer most of this but can tell you that if you go with D-Tek Fuzion block you find that the fittings are so close together that not only will compression fittings be unlikely to fit but if you use thick-wall tubing you have a time even getting hose clamps on both fittings. Yes, it can be done but its tight. I would think compression fittings won't fit. Everything I hear says its a great block, I chose it myself, but it is tight with 3/4 OD tubing. My EK NS-S-Max northbridge block presented the same challenge. Using Herbie clips or anything thicker than a hose clamp is not possible on either of these blocks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuckin_Futs
I would skip RAM and drive water-cooling were it me; probably the meters too. The main thing I've learned is to keep the loop as uncluttered and simple as possible.
Hope this helped you.
Well the thing is, I use currently, Ballistics Tracers at 1200 on 2.28v on air w/ ThermalRight HR-07's but needs lots of air to keep cool. I want to place my new DD Water Box on my desk and would like to air for quietness at idle or surfing the net. For now it will sit in my livingroom on a media center glass shelf and needs , or should be quiet during movie and gaming as can be for an OC'd system.Quote:
Originally Posted by wreckwriter
I'm willing to try the OCZ Reaper on water if anybdy has anything good to say about them to 1200MHz. I'm more then willing to add a sepperate 1/4" circut just for RAM and HDD's ( I use 2 500G and 4 74GB Raptors so heat is an issues (on drives) unless I crank up fans on case, again taking away from what I moved to water for. (noise).
Update, I am leaning towadr the Swiffy GTX for now and add coppertop later. Who has went from aluminum to copper on the GTX to comment on results. I admit, I may get it anyways cuase I like copper. I have to mention, that I have been out of the water game for a few years, still on DD RBX for AMD and older Intel P4. So I am wondering how much improvement has come from the 3 big new ones I mentioned, and more importantly, how the fact that the Swiffy GTX being on an offset inlet effects it over the models that jet to center. Is it a big difference, directed at anybody who used both.
Some new pics of my now watercooled Maximus Formula :
Naked :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1398.jpg
The heatpipe assembly (I removed it with a hairdryer for 20-30 seconds then wiggling till it popped off) :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1399.jpg
I now understand why we can't use the stock backplate threading, it's so small !! Since I didn't want to void the warranty of the motherboard by modding the stock backplate, I used some piece out of the decapitated WaveMaster to make a thicker backplate by using the NB holes as reference :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1400.jpg
Stock under the new custom (to check if holes is aligned correctly) :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1401.jpg
To avoid touching the components on the backside, I used a few washers stacked and electrical tape to cover the surface :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1420.jpg
Installed on the motherboard :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1421.jpg
Mosfets installed (I had to grind off a bump out of one since I didn't buy the Mosfet 3a version. It's not a problem since it's just 1 bump to grind off) :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1422.jpg
Picture with all the aftermarket blocks and heastsink installed :
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c3...n/DSCF1423.jpg
I will report back tomorrow with the NB/SB temps so I can add mine in the list :)
I already have the Black Ice GTX240 as primary Rad but wanted to know about adding a 2nd one and if so what one would be the better of the two if I get the ThermoChill PA120.2 2x120mm High Performance Radiator. I didnt get it yet, so how does it compare to the one I already have? Is anybody building true copper flat rod and finned care on brass tanked units.
I'm just asking cause it's been so long since my old Cadillac 8"x13" modded heater core of brass and copper. But it worked great for 5yrs now.
UPDATE: Turns out my current rad is of copper finned.
the thermochill will work better on low flow fans for some ear saving quiet, but with over 80ish cfm fans the GTX's start to pull away in temps b/c of their higher fin density. keep in mind the thermochill is also much thicker.
Is it cool to stack a set of performance rads of equal type to use in a dual push/pull fan configuration? I thought about adding a 2nd in front of origional w/ another set of fans, sort of a water version of ThermalRight's iFX-14 in dual fan manner. Anotherwards, do you guys think it will at least be better then just adding 1 single 120 rad elsewhere in system on its own?
well if you could seperate them in a different part of the loop and not have the heated air blowing thru the second rad.
accidental double post, please delete!
What I was noticing is that this rad I have now does exactly this. It is a dual pass, dual row. It passes once as a pre-cool pass, then again on fron section for final cool. So if I was to do this again but with the sepperated cores, do you think it can work OK? I mean if I run 1st time as pre-cool through the rear core and then up front to the 2nd core set so the heat coming from front to rear is half as warm now.Quote:
Originally Posted by Pedalmonkey
Just an idea. It's not a big deal, but I was hoping to not have to cut anymore holes in my new case (DangerDan Water Box Plus) and also had a molded radiator grill assembly to mock up in front to look like a big Peterbuilt tractor or something.including.
1, nice double post :p. and yes this would add some cooling ability because the air really only warms up 1-2 C but you would have better temps if you could have each rad breath clean air.
Who's using the Eheim HPPS i - 12v DC Industrial Long-Life, High Power Pump coming from a D5 (variable spd model) to compare it to? Is it quieter and more powerfull for the price and adjustable for spd via voltage control? Will it offer a mobo header for FAN RPM monitoring?
Here's the thing. I got this for the ability to control spd during OC and back to low or medium for daily use, but notice it takes a bit to get going on some resumes from S3 on this mobo (I only had old 1205 on my previous water rig). It is not the quietest as I was hoping so if I can get some feedback on the one Eheim HPPS i, I may switch over soon. I notice a lot of peepz using them encased in water with resivor. I imagine this greatly helped with high frequency noises.
If speed is fixed on the Eheim HPPS i, is lowering preasure under idle or light load worth it or just run full all the time. I was concerned with water flowing too fast through Rads to be cooled completely under heavy load. Or should I just get large resivor and integrate pump inside?
Nuckin_Futs, make a new thread since your questions doesn't relate to the Maximus Formula here !!
so doing some updates I have
the second ek waterblock for my 2900xt
I also have a pic of my setup with the second 2900xt in the system doing testing to make sure everything works before setting up full water with the new card and a second pump to get flow up due to all the blocks
current 3d mark 06 Here 19008 stock speed for both core and mem
Got a bit of a temp issue guys, could use some advice. System is brand new, first boot yesterday. Here are the specs:
Asus Maximus Formula, e8400, 4 GB G-Skill PC2 8500 RAM, 8800GTS video, PC Power and Cooling 750 PSU, Gigabyte Aurora 3d case. Running XP Pro SP2. All CPU/RAM related bios settings unchanged from what the bios (0907) picked.
Cooling is self built. mostly water, MCP655 pump, PA 120.3 rad (mounted on back of case with 3 medium speed Yates pulling), D-Tek Fuzion CPU block (with washer only), DD Ione video block, EK NB-S-Max northbridge block, XSPC 5 1/4 bay reservoir (components are in that order in loop). Fluid is distilled water with a few drops of Petra's nuke, TIM is MX-2. All tubing is 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD. South bridge is air cooled with Thermalright HR-05 IFX with Sythe fan, mosfets with Thermalright HR-09 Type 2 sinks, RAM is cooled by a Corsair Dominator.
Using latest version of CoreTemp my core 0 is reading 42c, core 1 is 45c at idle. TJ Max is showing as 105c. VID is showing 1.1125. I'm going to get Everest tonight but I don't expect it to show much different.
Water flow seems to be good, loop is tight. The only thing I can think to try is reseating the CPU water block, maybe going back to AS-5, but I feel like like I got it seated properly. Part of the problem could be that case inbound airflow is not great, but again, its not horrible, one 120mm fan in, 2 120mm fan out.
Any additional ideas would be great. Could it be a bios setting, CPU voltage maybe? What should it be for running at stock speed? Thanks for any advice!
Q6700 G0 @3.8ghz 1.565volts almost idle cores at 42c to 47c
tj. Max at 100C
Quote:
Originally Posted by wreckwriter
What are some refference scores for the E6750 to 3.8GHz and 4GHz on this mobo? As soon as I recover my lost data for my air comps, I will post them.
Also, who has removed the X38 IHS to try to improve on more cooling effort with any luck? Does it make a noticable difference? I should hope so as I see too many peeps do it to the AMD CPU's so it must equal something.
My RMA is home, so I will be back on the project to get the pump and rad configured in a new case.
Can anyone confirm if this would keep the SB cool ?Quote:
Originally Posted by deepcover
I found that with passive cooling my SB now runs hotter than the NB.
I have now ordered SB and mosfet coolers from EK for my board.
Well this board will be in a btx case so there would be a 120mm fan right above the SB :shrug: .
I would jusr swap out for copper SB cooler or ThermalRight and I find the run nice and cool on medium OC to 500FSB w/ 1.104v and 1.58v on SB and SB 1.5. If all you did was remove the ROG cover, then at least add a 40mm mini fan to help out if keeping ASUS heatpipe system. Cause a lot of the generated heat back flows from NB makeing the SB warmer then need be.
Well I just wanted to detach the stock heatsink from the heat pipe. That way its low enough as to not cause any problems with my 9800gx2. I was planning on using my spare hr05 on the NB, but if what i have in mind isnt possible or it'll hurt my sb temps then i'll just use the stock board cooling throughout.
So I understand correctly, are you desoldering the heatpipe off the NB to SB link from the SB aluminum sink underneath the ROG badge? If so are you them removing the NB water block unit to run your own? Otherwise, the pipe runs so low to the board, it will clear just about any PCI card in its path. Removing only the badge is OK to especially if you plan to air cool w/ thin 40x10mm fan.Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkatom
If so, just make sure you can solder it back in case of RMA. Thats wgy I would just use a copper aftermarket which is far better then the stock off pipe.
My SB is cooled by a Enzotech low-profile copper heatsink and with the 120mm fan blowing across the bottom, the temp never rise above 30C so it's great for me. Later, if by tweaking the overclock to the max, the SB get hot, I still have the EK NB/SB Asus 3 block I can slap on the board (I just need to buy extra tubing as i ran out of R-3400 for my 2 loops).
I suggest you keep the heatpipe assembly intact so you can return the board for warranty if it fail later. If you damage the heatpipe assembly, the warranty is void ;)
I don't think the screwdriver will dissipate much heat. :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Darkatom
Just throw an Enzotech sink on there. They even have one with a built in low-profile fan if you like. :up:
do you have a fan(120mm or 140mm) by the SB?Quote:
Originally Posted by zlojack
what did you use to connect the EnzoTech cooler to the SB? And what are your temps?Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
Hello tweakers, this is my first post and wanna say HI to everybody.
After I ordered a whole DangerDen setup ive found this forum :eek:
And after I read all the posts, I havent see nobody with a dangerden
setup? Is it really that bad or? Because my DD setup is already shipped
and i cant cancel it :( Is there really nobody using a MC-TDX and a DD
X38 chipset cooler?
safan80, I used 3M thermal tape : http://www.ncix.com/products/index.p...facture=Others
It's the right size for the SB core so just peel a side, stick on the SB, peel the other side then press the Enzotech on it for 15-20 seconds. Make sure to clean the surface thoroughly with isoprophyl alcohol.
I wouldn't worry about it. Now if you bought koolance that would of been a reason to worry.Quote:
Originally Posted by nakata24
Thanks I don't know why I didn't realize you used thermal tape.Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
Welcome!Quote:
Originally Posted by nakata24
DD makes quality stuff, so I wouldn't worry about it too much.
Guys , the ones that have a QX9650 can send me a memo with the bios settings for about 4ghz. (I have a buddy that making a new set up but he is not able to pass 3.6 no matter what) cheers:welcome:
Hey I have been reading this thread. The only question I ask is I have the maximus extreme, which appears to have a different fusion block which was upgraded on the southbridge. Also I have read that these are for sure all copper no aluminum in the mix. Is it worth the hassle and expense to switch this out to a aftermarket cooling setup id do nb, sb and mosfets if I did it. If pics are needed let me know and I will upload some.
click the link in my sig.Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_rtr
@dontgvadamn
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&postcount=514
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9...Picture078.jpg
Is this on the extreme board or the formula board?
Mine looks different from that. From what I have read everything is one peice. If you go with a aftermarket nb you have to use a sb cooler as well as they are one peice. the only thing you can reuse is the mosfet cooler because its screwed on the the rest of the assembly..Again this is for the maximus extreme its a different fusion block than the formula
you could try the onboard cooler better, but if you want better temps you should go with after market coolers.
Yes I am just trying to debate if it is worth it. Since this one is different than the formula cooler it might be a bit better at cooling????? I need to get everest so I can see my nb temps.
PM SentQuote:
Originally Posted by neo_rtr
-yes, well noted. thank youQuote:
Originally Posted by zlojack
note as well.. thank youQuote:
Originally Posted by safan80
O.K., so now we got just about everything quiet but now my SilverStone Strider and other OCZ GamerXtreme out do every fan left in the system since I cant quiet it down any more next to opening it up and swapping fan.
Any leads on watercooling PSU as of yet? We saw heatpipes, so why not water?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
any update on your temps?
hi all,
must say this is one of the most informative threads which I have just read from page 1!! Big thankyou to all involved and congrats on some beautiful machines.
My situation is that I got the Maximus SE back in Nov 07 and have been running it on air since then. Now this machine has not been running all day and in fact has not been used for the last 2 months or so due to work etc. I have finally decided to try my hand at a water cooled build and was originally going to use the stock cooling but the more I read the more I want to replace the nb with an aftermarket block.
I am however concerned that having been using this board on and off for a few months will make the removal of the stock cooling almost impossible or result in the destruction of the motherboard.
Should I even attempt to remove the stock cooling or should I stick with it? :shrug:
I used cuircut freeze after heavy gaming use for months on air and the fusion block popped right off. Covered areas around blocks with folds of cloth and just sprayed it until frosty and heard a pop and the whole thing just came right off. It is cold so use a cloth to handle it. acetone cleans the goop off easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangals
I just put mine in the plastic tray from the box and left it in the freezer overnight. In the morning it popped off like nothing.
Oh, forgot about that...
Right now, with the cpu at 3.6 GHz, the NB temp hover around 30C and the SB at 33-34C.
Can some of you folks feedback on the changes in their ambient room air temps around desk (for those of us who have cube or tower right next to us on desktop)?
On air, I can keep the box cool, but that heat exhaulsted out the cube is something else. The case ventlazition system does its job so now my office needs more A/C jsut to keep up. Is it like or more then likely the overall room aire can come down in temp when on water, with saem heavy OC. Due to overclock, just about the whole mobo will get weater now, even RAM.
sorry if it is a silly question but is there any issue with condensation on the board? Also had you been using the board previously or was it brand new?Quote:
Originally Posted by zlojack
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dangals
Yes, I had been using the board for several months.
As far as condensation goes, there wasn't any. Plus, it wasn't hooked up to anything, so any minor condensation that might have formed was long evaporated by the time I hooked it back up.
Yeah , I noticed the same room heating as on air, but takes longer. The heat coming off the computer is lower, but at a higher volume (You are dissipating the same amount of system heat). So the lower temps of the exhausted air still builds up in the room because of the volume of air coming off the rad). My air coming off the rad fans is around 87F on H20 where the back fan on air was around 98F (exhaust right off the CPU fan) and the vid card exhaust air around 107+F. Wife has never been happy about the heat off this machine and having her hold her hand above the fan to show her a lower temp did nothing to dispell her assessment of the heat generation.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nuckin_Futs
I figured exactly that. I was wonderiong if I could route the main RAD to a higher level or even in the hall, where it would get recycled to central A/C, how long is too long for an average pump? I am at least 3m from my desk to the door upper transome window to the outside hall. Would adding a 2nd pump help to keep the system running efficiently? Or would it be more effective to just route duct work from a inclosed RAD box to the transome window in the hall. This way, I can also duct fresh A/C cold air to desk area as well as RAD intake. I just wanna make my desk area cooler since I like having my cube up front to admire.
I do it outside but it is way too hot out there to be efficient for the summer, and this is when I need it most.
on my maximus formula my NB temps according to everest are 48c at idle
and on prime 95 it gets as high as 56c are those temps high?
off topic: well yesterday mi MF die.......I don´t now why :s
I send to RMA this morning. Hope give me another one.
The mb is not booting, and at firs a think its was a problem whith the memory, but i put 1GB in the withe slot and nothing. Clear Cmos and nothing. Sorry for the off topic :p but, i need to talk with some one :D
As noted in this thread everything up to 47°C is considered safe. But this is just adressing the propability that your overclock may be unstable if you're going above these temps. Every board is different, so if you're stable then don't mind the temps. Northbridges are built AFAIK for far higher working temps than CPUs. Then again if you're watercooling your parts as posting in this thread indicates then I would guess you're doing something wrong. Maybe reseating?Quote:
Originally Posted by dc2
Edit: The x38 spec sheet states a Tstorage of 150°C. I don't know why they're calling it so but I guess thats the max... (Tstorage low is -50°C, why would a chip be damaged by cooling it?)
What voltages are you using?Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
Forgot about that but that's with a Q6600. Now, I'm running a Q9450 since yesterday so forget about that... I'll come back this week with all the informations because I'm trying to get to 3.6 but the damn FSB wall is there :(
Just thought I would drop a note saying that the removal of the sock heatsink was easy after placing it in the freezer fo just over 1 hour. Plus I have been using the board since last Nov. I must admit that when I gave it a twist the "crack" that resulted nearly made me #%$* my pants!!!
Thanks to all who gave advice....will post temps after I receive the last few parts of the new setup.
Two words "Im Full"
:rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by Creek Tha Gray
Nice job CTG!!! :up: I'm in the process of doing cpu,NB,SB and to vid cards. No mosfets so I guess i'll only be 3/4 ful. :D
Creek, im not to sure, but are your graphics cards plumbed wrong, looks like the water is just passing through the top card without going around the insides of the block as well as it could?
Correct me if i am probably wrong
taylormsj is right, the video cards is not getting any flow at all. you need to stagger the entrance and exit so water will flow thru each block.
Quote:
Originally Posted by taylormsj
first my account had email change and was days and days till they said ok to the new emailQuote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
if you look at the waterblocks they are the EK-FCR600 CF Xtreme - Acetal and watercool both the back and front of the card. only on the Xtreme model is the card for both sides and yes they take alot of room and i wish i had only the single slot ones.
Oh, didn't notice the particular block building... Then it's correct ;)
Has any of you try the following
dual redundant Laing 355s using an Alphacool plexiglas dual-pump adapter
there is a picture shown here
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...38&postcount=1
By WonderSausage
The pumps are dual redundant Laing 355s using an Alphacool plexiglas dual-pump adapter, plus their 3.5" bay mounting bracket that I had to order from Germany:
http://www.pcdominion.com/images/FIPC-5a.jpg
That's pretty sweet!
Finally got my rig back together again, after adding my EVGA 9800GTX SSC to the loop.
First 3dmark06 score at default OC (770/1944/2300): 16348
http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/3...6348tf9.th.jpg
Now for some 800+ runs
Here's my Maximus all watered down:
http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/1175/dsc0057sbx1.jpg
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/4960/dsc0031sbz3.jpg
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/7928/dsc0032sjf2.jpg
3D06: 25019
http://service.futuremark.com/result...eResultType=14
SuperPi1M: 9.922s
http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/276/9922rp7.jpg
The new ones wont fit the 3.2 Trust me i had to have mine shaved down by martin so it would take the new DDC's.Quote:
Originally Posted by neo_rtr
Those blue things are scary. :rofl:
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0950.jpg
The pump works better when you use both inlets, he blocked one off.
I have the pump setup simular to this setup, only the inlet is on the side of that koolance bridge and not top. I made this picture as a pun to represent myself flicking someone off in h2o eq.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0949.jpg
Heres the TOP tho, You can buy it at PPC, however you need to send it to someone to have them mill it down. Martin would be your best bet since he did mine and knows exactly how much to shave down. Only problem is martin retired his mill.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0873.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0871.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0870.jpg
I like rare toys, which is why i probably have this pump. Not a lot of people will use it because it requires 2 ddc's to work.
Heres my other rare toy which martin had his hands on.
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...a/IMG_0661.jpg
That to me is still the best pump you can get, if you can fit it. More so then my dual DDC config.
And if your thinkn im talking about the one on the left, see my koolance pic above. :rofl:
What do you mean by saying wont fit the 3.2??Quote:
Originally Posted by NaeKuh
The top is made for a DDC2 so there is a lip around the inlet protruding so water will flow directly to the middle of the impeller. To fit a DDC3.2, we need to mill off that lip but just enough so performance won't degrade too much. If we try to fit a DDC3.2 without modifications, the impeller will touch the top and will cause damage if left running like that.
I'm going to be watercooling the north bridge for my P5E as soon as Syrillian finishes my case. I'll have crappy cell phone pics of it then ;)
Score @ 831/2098/2360: 17057Quote:
Originally Posted by Durkadurka
http://img178.imageshack.us/img178/4...7057hc9.th.jpg
I havent tried any games yet, but after 4 hours of ATItool artifact testing, the temp reached a maximum of 48 degrees Celsius.
I gotta say I love my loop, keeping every component nice and cool :)
EDIT: Hmm I opened the window in my computerroom, and the temp on my GPU is now down to 45C, even tho the ambient temp only went down from 26C to 25C.
I guess the air is circulating better then so more of the hot air my radfans are putting out doesnt get sucked into the intake fans.
Aha. i see. iam using Laing DDC-1T-PLUS and in this case will double it up when i do it. I trust this is ok :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Xilikon
[QUOTE=Clue69Less;2956622]Here's my Maximus all watered down:
http://img170.imageshack.us/img170/1175/dsc0057sbx1.jpg
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/4960/dsc0031sbz3.jpg
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/7928/dsc0032sjf2.jpg
What cooling liquid are you using???
i'm currently using a swiftech apex220 kit on my maximus,i'm switching that out soon.
i'm just waiting on some chrome fittings for my pa120.3. going to reuse most of the swiftech kit, just changing the rad and the block to a dtek fusion.
i'm also going to use the stock block on the nb with a 1/2 to 3/8 adapter. i know thats not the ideal way of doing it, but i'm out of money atm. i'm sure next time the loop needs serviced i'll change out that block. heck i'm air cooling the nb atm, with just a small fam blowing towards it.
right now my rig is in a cramped antec 900 with the rad hanging from the back on a radbox. i'm moving it all into a bestbuy rocket fish. should have plenty of room in that full tower.
i cut my hole in the roof tonight for the rad. heres a few pics.
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/4...ture176mr0.jpg
By rangerone7669, shot with Photosmart M415 at 2008-05-02
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/1...ture177jp0.jpg
By rangerone7669, shot with Photosmart M415 at 2008-05-02
anyone using watercooling on the southbridge while using a 9800gx2??? would like to know if any of the EK blocks will work on the sb and still have room for the 9800gx2
thanks
CCC
went ahead and got a DD maze4 block for the nb at microcenter, also got a can of circiut freeze. about a 10 second spay till the nb was frosty and it poped right off.Quote:
Originally Posted by rangerone7669
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/2...re18730lc7.jpg
By rangerone7669, shot with Photosmart M415 at 2008-05-06
the wire managment didnt come out aswell as i'd hoped. but after about 5 hours of messing with it, that was the best i could do.
http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/8...re18731ay9.jpg
By rangerone7669, shot with Photosmart M415 at 2008-05-06
my hosing runs came out pretty nice i think.
Here is my watercooled Maximus!!! Thanks to all who had input in this thread - it alone convinced me to try watercooling.
Dangals --------- 1.52v ------ 27°C -- 1HR Prime95 --- Q6600 GO @ 3.6GHz ---- 18.5°C ---- EK S-MAX Acetal
Has anyone RMA'd a maximus/rampage after yanking off the stock cooling?
Does ASUS care? I'm just curious if I need to keep the old heatsinks/heatpipes in good shape in case I need to RMA.
I'm guessing they don't care since these boards are designed for overclocking, and most watercool the NB.
Could someone share their experiences with RMA'ing their modified maximus/rampage?
I remeoved everything and asked up fron before I wasted my time, they said fine, just replace with stock and keep your mod parts as they wont be returned. One (P5AD2-E Premium) I RMA'd to the Egg on their 1yr no ?s asked warrenty, they didnt even care about the stock parts removed. I let them they were not on and said it was fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by extremis