Chilly1 evap and enclosureQuote:
Originally Posted by HoriWanderFuLL
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Chilly1 evap and enclosureQuote:
Originally Posted by HoriWanderFuLL
Thank you all for the feedback and suggestions
Ron, Nice setup! I would like the 7pin flat cable not hanging touching the compressor, if the length of the cable is enough, do something with it.
TopherTony, The controller is primarily designed to control single stage phase change systems. It could work for a chiller also, as the start up & safety settings can changed as desired.
Quote:
Originally Posted by gsmaster
LM35 more info there looks to be lots of LM35 sensors..Have you the correct code.
Looks like it was bad where solder to the sensor i removed heatshrink today for a look..
are these soldered inside then closed up Crimped??
just correct model of lm35 would be great thanks John and i will refix at home.
Page 14 i think this is the 1 http://www.jaycar.com.au/products_uploaded/ZL3336.pdf
Cheers Hori
Hori the link you posted is for the LM335 series not for the LM35 they are different.
Here is the manufacturers product page http://www.national.com/mpf/LM/LM35.html
You need the LM35 in a TO-92 casing. The letters behind the label LM35xx are just different models with different accuracy and other characteristics and of course different price.
LM35DZ, the cheapest one will work fine.
Any other casing (except TO-92) of LM35 will work but the size and shape of the sensor does not help for proper installation.
Try to re-solder the sensor, and run it for some hours, it might work.
Thanks mate for the correct info..when i was rying to remove the wire sleeving and as i was moving it i could see temp reading up to where it should be and i was wigling it and it broke it close to the sensor :( ..So i will just buy a new sensor.
Ok all i need to know is ground/pin Vout/pin and Vs/pin on the controller and i can wire to the new sensor..
i used a multi meter on the controller i have left pin 5v middle pin 0v right pin .062v this is looking at the controller from the front being temp pins 1st from the left.
Please wake up Greece must be breaky time by now :-)
ho ho ho....
You connect the +5V terminal of the LM35 to the left pin, center pin to center pin of the sensor, and the remaining two pins together ;)
I attach you a drawing.
Thanks alot for the drawing helps alot...
cheers Hori
Hori -
Please take a picture of the circuit board and show us what you are repairing. This will aid someone else down the line that may have this problem. :up:
Cheers will do..if it is just the sensor cable hopefully not circuit board..
Although i bought 3 Lm35Dz sensors yesterday had wired up correctly anyway before Gsmaster posted the pic..
seem to be still having same troubles..Maybe i go back to store and get differant than the lm35dz..as i read today the dz dont read sub 0c temps....
i think i need the lm35Axxx series..
so atm i seem to be stuck at around -2c evap and no lower bios temps reading -28c
all i seem to be doing is making a huge mess here lol and new cooler to arrive bye this time next week..so i want this 1 sorted out before i start next operation ..
It depends on the way the sensor is wired on the circuit.Quote:
Originally Posted by HoriWanderFuLL
I also heard it once or two times the past year, Can you please show me where did you see it?
(I prefer an official datasheet, or a very reliable site)
You also have a PM.
I added an on/off switch - it works like a charm. :up: Thanks gsmaster and jinny :D Red light comes on when powered up.
anymore work being done to software ? most settings i change wont save Also i keep getting this error..
Tmp probe all fixed Lm35dz works fine in comparision to Multi meter probe reading.
http://img187.imageshack.us/img187/3825/drfrostyot0.jpg
Hori
Restarting the programm, or the whole system should fix this problem.
can someone post links to current software for vista
current firmware
and manual.
Thanks
Unit will be her in a little over 1 week.
I got the manuals, but missing the software, would be nice of someone could tell us where it is or send it to me, and if I got the permission I can upload it on my webpage (gigabit upstream).
regards
Tim
sorry for doubleposting. but here is the software (dr frosty) uploaded on a proper server.
http://www.phasechange.se/misc/apps/DrFrosty.rar
nice. check this :
http://www.ortodoxism.ro/datasheets/...r/DS005516.PDF
if you need software or pdf files on manuals contact me on Msn , hor3ndus@hotmail.comQuote:
Originally Posted by tim-
i would not bother running the software..as i noticed other day my temps was running higher than they should be..i did some searching on why and found that dr frosty was loading up the cpu alot!..
i think the Controller by itself and buttons are just fine..i have 2 of them i trust them pretty much on readings..especially now since i bought a multimetere that reads temps and also a temp meter and all are reading along same lines as my gsmaster controller when attached to the same point.
if you start from post 1 and read through you will find all the information on manuals and settings on the controller..from memory gsmaster/John starts posting from page 3.
Good controllers both going well so still a nice product , And support is usually only a message away .
Hori
yes it's a good product, even better after some modifications ;) I do have the software and manuals, as i've written earlier I've also shared the software via my ftp on unseens permission.
well to getto the point, why I post. I was talking to unseen quite some time on msn and he told me he would be happy if I shared some of my mods here since it seems like noone have done anything on them? well I'm currently trying and using some other mods expect this one I will show, but since I'm not 100% satisfy with the other ones I keep them for my self until it's working 100% on all SS units i got in all situations.. which isn't the case atm..
well to get to the point as i said.
This is an modification to make the backlight on the display to turn on/off together with the compressor. original the controller has the backlight on as long as you have electricity to the unit, which is 24/7 normally.
to make it easy:
http://phasechange.se/photos/misc/fr...t/DSCN0122.JPG
find the compressor relay on powerboard, it's the one next to the compressor connections (2screw connectors). flip the board upside down and locate the 12v feeding to turn the relay on/off. they are the two zoomed in in picture above, I've also solder 2*0,25mm^2cables on those.
http://phasechange.se/photos/misc/fr...t/DSCN0124.JPG
here I have flip the board right again and attach a very small relay, solder the power to the relay (different pins depending on relay). I use the cheapest relay my electrical hardware store supply, cost ~2e incl taxes. the relay is now soldered parallell to the compressor relay I've also solder two cables (0,25mm^2) which will conduct electricity when the relay have power (ie compressor is running).
http://phasechange.se/photos/misc/fr...t/DSCN0127.JPG
now, desolder one of the pins for feeding the backlight on display. then soldder either the cable or a 2pin fitting as I did on picture above.
http://phasechange.se/photos/misc/fr...t/DSCN0128.JPG
a closer look how it looks.
http://phasechange.se/photos/misc/fr...t/DSCN0130.JPG
http://phasechange.se/photos/misc/fr...t/DSCN0131.JPG
the two pictures above shows the whole think mounted together and it fits good and works like a charm. display is possible to read even if backlight isn't on, for example if it fails to boot of some reason, but it require you to put the lights on in the room.
if you havn't understand it now, what you have done is that you have cut one of the legs on the display backlight and put a relay on the "line". this line will be conductive when the compressor is running.
easy to do and cost ~3euro totally, for me and many i know it's defenatly worth it since many have their computers in the bedrom, and the backlight is very braight and enoying when you try to sleep with it. when ou have build a unit it would never fail if you build it right and therefor i havn't put to much attension to the little "downside" with the lack of backlight on error messages.
hope this will help some of you.
nice......
Hehe :) Very nice Tim. Thanks for sharing.
Very nice Tim - For me, I'll stay with my on/off switch :) Very simple mod of splicing into power line. :)
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...1&d=1193785599
Hello ppl!
Nice to see users posting their ideas. Beware that the lcd in the mod is not availiable. The lcds currently availiable do not have the same backlight style and the backlight pins are through hole soldered on the pcb, The same mod can also be done on these lcds but not in the same way.
It really does matter the type of the lcd.
By the way, do not do anything if you do not know exactly what are you doing.
Regards!
gsmaster:
your right, I've got in touch with both versions of lcd and it's pretty easy on both versions since i've done it on the new ones too.
btw, maybe you should intergrate this function in next version of controller?
Make the backlight go on at the same time text is shown. for example when you adjust settings in controller or an error messages is shown as "boot fail" or such
regards
Tim