So is it really worth me giving this mod a go on my Rev 2.0 and 1700+/1800+?
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So is it really worth me giving this mod a go on my Rev 2.0 and 1700+/1800+?
I would say so. Watch the results :DQuote:
Originally posted by st0nedpenguin
So is it really worth me giving this mod a go on my Rev 2.0 and 1700+/1800+?
oooh, I can't wait to get home now.
If I can even boot at 220 it will be an improvement.:D
don't forget to bump your OCZ to 2.9V in bios (3.06V in bios) got same doing 240Mhz on the NF7 :D
What were you getting before the L12 mod?
correct, but you have to use very soft grahite such as 2B lead or softer lead and careful application to make it work. I've unlocked couple of Athlon PaloXP cpu packaging for lower multipliers too by using this type of pencil. HBs and 2Bs ain't gonna cut it, as if completely effectiveless. But still, for more security, use the old fashion silver ink/paint/pen material to unlock them.Quote:
Originally posted by Pita^Norf
hmmmm......
I read on many forums that pencil unlocking/moding of Athlons was a no go as long ago as the palomino core due it's high resistance, however reading that you have completed the CPU mod with a pencil I now stand corrected.
Some people gained higher result in FSB oc'ing than I. It varies some. When you test it though keep the setting the same before the mod and after the mod to see what difference it will make it for you or not.Quote:
Originally posted by st0nedpenguin
So is it really worth me giving this mod a go on my Rev 2.0 and 1700+/1800+?
Looks like I'll give it a shot tonight then.
I'll report back tomorrow...Hopefully...
Well, I got the mod sorted, just dropped a bit of wire in place and bam! No more auto CPU settings in the BIOS.
It looks like I can easily get the RAM over 200Mhz now, but for some reason I can't get the 10/10.5 multipliers to work, it could be the 1.6 BIOS, but I'm not sure, and I'll have to get hold of the 1.0 again.
So, to cut a long story short, whether it's my chip, RAM or cooling, whatever, I can't get this chip stable over 2.3Ghz, I might be able to when I get watercooling on it though, so at the moment I can't run at anything higher than 210 without dropping my overall speed by quite a bit.
The board did boot happily at 220Mhz though, but nothing at 225, I'll probably get a few more mods thrown on once I have the DangerDen kit bought, and see what I can manage then, only a couple of weeks to wait.
*sigh*
My results after the L12 mod to my XP1700DLT3C 0310 XPMW are not as good as others.
Before the mod my system was stable at 223fsb with 1.74vdd. Now after mod I can still only run 223fsb stable. I couldn't however boot over 225 before the mod but now can get into windows at 230. I have increased all my voltages and relaxed the timings and still nothing stable over 223fsb.
My only conclusion is I need more vdd juice. Anyone here running over 230fsb without modding the vdd?
Oh yeah my chips boots up at 11x200, what did I do wrong? Used the wire pin method.
Thanks
Update, just flashed to the 14 and now my chip reads 11x166, all is well except I still need the vdd mod.
hey RacerX :)
which L12 mod did you do? is it a 166fsb sense mod or 200fsb sense mod? i've done both and i get different oc'ing results between the two.
I thought I was doing the L12 166fsb mod but when I restarted my system bios 10 detected my chip as 11x200. Hmm, so I flashed back to the 14 thinking my ram likes that one better and that detected my chip at 166 so I guess I've done the 166 mod.Quote:
Originally posted by IamAnoobieCheez
hey RacerX :)
which L12 mod did you do? is it a 166fsb sense mod or 200fsb sense mod? i've done both and i get different oc'ing results between the two.
IamAnoobieCheez, how have you been? I see you found yourself a new forum. Good for you.
ok then. yes i had gone back to 166fsb mod from 200fsb mod because 200fsb mod made virtually zero difference but the 166fsb helped a little. Still can't do 230fsb DC + fast decode all enabled for 3dmark reliably. it is hard for me to tell yet because i'm not done testing it.. i need more time to see how much it has gained or not and what i'm gonna do about it. :)Quote:
Originally posted by RacerX
I thought I was doing the L12 166fsb mod but when I restarted my system bios 10 detected my chip as 11x200. Hmm, so I flashed back to the 14 thinking my ram likes that one better and that detected my chip at 166 so I guess I've done the 166 mod.
IamAnoobieCheez, how have you been? I see you found yourself a new forum. Good for you.
Yes i've been doing fine, thanks.. :) i also have few other forums I often visit.. my old home places :D
I can do the L12 mod this way too on my EPoX 8RDA+ can't I?
I have a 1700+ that won't go over 225 fsb
Vdd is @ 1.9 currently so that's enough juice, it's a C1 chipset
http://www.geocities.com/trats102002/nf7sFsbsense.html
I tried it on an 8rda+ with A1/C1 and it did nothing so i doubt it will help. Put Vdd up to 2v.
Hmmm... I voltmodded my vdd to 1.9v and that went well for a week... but suddenly I got blackscreens...
I have an EPoX 8RDA+ with a C1 chipset.
I mean the computer is still on, but the monitir indicator goes orange, thus receiving no signal or something.
Wenn I press the power button it immediately shuts down, instead of having to hold it for 5 seconds.
When I remove the vdd mod everything is fine again.
How can this be, 1.9v isn't too high for vdd right?
I have a DangerDen Maze4 on my CPU, a DangerDen Z-chip block on my NB and a GF4 block, also from DangerDen, so the cooling is more than adequate.
q149 has his vdd @ 2.02V so I suppose 1.9 couldn't be too high?
Could this be due to my cpu or something?
Figures... yeah well if I remove the vdd mod and it's fine again then I guess there's where the problem lies :D
Ah well I wanted to get an Abit NF7-S 2.0 anyway so I may just as well sell this board...
It's not too bad but if it can't stand vdd modding (at least getting it above 1.6v) then it's over for me very quickly.
I got some Corsair RAM waiting to be punished ;)
how did you go back to 166 from 200?Quote:
Originally posted by IamAnoobieCheez
i had gone back to 166fsb mod from 200fsb mod because 200fsb mod made virtually zero difference but the 166fsb helped a little.
See if the Vdd chip or the one opposite is getting hot. I would bet that this is the problem area. I had to remove the chip opposite the Vdd chip the F7317 from international rectifier. I broke the original chip after pulling off a heatsink epoxied on (I had done the same before sucessfully on a gfx card). I also bought a 0.5mm tip for my soldering iron (instead of 1/2" LOL). You can see pics here:Quote:
Originally posted by Garrett
Figures... yeah well if I remove the vdd mod and it's fine again then I guess there's where the problem lies :D
Ah well I wanted to get an Abit NF7-S 2.0 anyway so I may just as well sell this board...
It's not too bad but if it can't stand vdd modding (at least getting it above 1.6v) then it's over for me very quickly.
I got some Corsair RAM waiting to be punished ;)
http://www.aoaforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19826
there are two pieces of wires placed on the appropriate socket holes for 200fsb mod. I just simply remove one of them and back to 166fsb mod. wire-drop-socket method.Quote:
Originally posted by JAWS
how did you go back to 166 from 200?
Hi all,
Alright I'm running on the 8RDA+ 1.1 with 1.9Vdd and I'm really tempted to do this 1700+ L12 mod to change my CPU to 166Mhz.\
I've read all the posts and threads but the question is, I don't quite understand how it works. Am I suppose to close the 3rd bridge on L12 ? I read about the wire trick and there are so many diagrams on the threads which I don't know which to follow :(
Can anyone please help by telling me what I should exactly do on my Tbred 1700+ to run 166FSB thus gaining a higher FSB ?
I'm currently at 230FSB and I certainly hope for more ! Thanks in advance everyone !
Hmm. I still prefer it connecting the third L12 through window defogger repair kit. Don't forget closing the pit with superglue before... :DQuote:
Originally posted by Swiftech
Can anyone please help by telling me what I should exactly do on my Tbred 1700+ to run 166FSB thus gaining a higher FSB ?
I'm currently at 230FSB and I certainly hope for more ! Thanks in advance everyone !
Ehrmmm... which one is it :DQuote:
Originally posted by megatron
See if the Vdd chip or the one opposite is getting hot. I would bet that this is the problem area. I had to remove the chip opposite the Vdd chip the F7317 from international rectifier. I broke the original chip after pulling off a heatsink epoxied on (I had done the same before sucessfully on a gfx card). I also bought a 0.5mm tip for my soldering iron (instead of 1/2" LOL). You can see pics here:
http://www.aoaforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=19826
The one on which I soldered the wires to the resistor, or the one to the left of it, the one you "broke" off the board ;)
I'd still go for this method:Quote:
Originally posted by Swiftech
Hi all,
Alright I'm running on the 8RDA+ 1.1 with 1.9Vdd and I'm really tempted to do this 1700+ L12 mod to change my CPU to 166Mhz.\
I've read all the posts and threads but the question is, I don't quite understand how it works. Am I suppose to close the 3rd bridge on L12 ? I read about the wire trick and there are so many diagrams on the threads which I don't know which to follow :(
Can anyone please help by telling me what I should exactly do on my Tbred 1700+ to run 166FSB thus gaining a higher FSB ?
I'm currently at 230FSB and I certainly hope for more ! Thanks in advance everyone !
http://www.geocities.com/trats102002/nf7sFsbsense.html
Connect a wire from ah28 to ah30 and that should be it.
I almost messed up my cpu when removing the excess glue after 'filling the gap' :D
This trick is a lot safer if you ask me, and easy to remove... (warranty?) :D
Cool...that was what I was asking for, if you couldjust put wire or deffogger fluid between sockets holes instead of putting stuff directly onto the cpu. I have a few questions though. What kind of wire is that, and how is it attatched? Is it just bent and laying in there? If so how can you be sure it will touch the pin...or does the pin fill the whole socket?
thanks for this pic...it will help. Do you have any pics of the entire socket...that way i can be absolutely sure i am doing it in the right spot.
thanks
Ermm...Quote:
Originally posted by Garrett
I almost messed up my cpu when removing the excess glue after 'filling the gap' :D
This trick is a lot safer if you ask me, and easy to remove... (warranty?) :D
How did you do this :confused:
You just clean the cpu using acetone and that stuff claens away the glue very easily - I even havta watch that I do not wipe away the glue when having to redo it ;)
With acetone you can also clean off the tim of the core :D
I say easy to remove :toast: