iandh: How's the testing going? Any updates on availability to be had?Quote:
Originally Posted by iandh
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iandh: How's the testing going? Any updates on availability to be had?Quote:
Originally Posted by iandh
Your fluid is still going strong how ever ive now got the pc as she no longer users it. She like her ipad better. The temps are still well better than normal how ever i lost alot of my wright ups when my pc decided to boom with a power spike a few weeks back.Quote:
Originally Posted by relttem
/bumpQuote:
Originally Posted by ximius
Waiting to get my hands on some of this! :)
what colour you after.
<----- Needs dark purple! Maybe some dark red too
im re opening mayhems dyes after i get back from my hols. mainly selling to Europe, how ever im working on expanding the range into other things as well and not just dyes. I have had quite a lot of ppl asking me to do this and all so some one i know well in the business has told me i should just do it even though i can only do so much.
There is some dyes on ebay including the new ultra dye range (this is not a bomb dye in a bottle but a bloody nuclear attack) ive been hiding for a while - I found all my recipes and been working hard with my doctors.
Vid of Ultra Blue in action in 2.1 Ltrs of water. -> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IFqjIsh8uk
Wow. I cannot wait to get my hands on that blue.
I would be very very interested in your clear / UV blue - from the sample pics I've seen your product is outstanding, significantly better than anything readily available :up:
I'm in no rush - be happy to place order tomorrow & wait for however long it takes to get here - well worth the wait. Please let me know what you might need from me.
Thank You.
I grabbed some of this off ebay and let me just confirm, its WW III in a bottle! Cant wait to see what other stuff is out there. Great stuff! :shocked:Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
ww III in a bottle like that :) ...
Excellent will be buying some Mayhems Ultra Deep Blue today then, i think one drop would be too much for my loop :rofl:
Awesome, this is really great news. Looking forward to your European shipments :) Can't wait to get my hands on blue and red :)
Great news.. what happened to IandH? Will he be selling in the US?Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
i wish i knew i haven't heard from him in ages but hopefully he will be. Im just doing ebay my self atm and working on the shop back end. I need to figure out a way that if you come from the USA it re directs you to him instead.Quote:
Originally Posted by Buckeyes1995
Nice to see that you will be up & running again Mick.:)
If you need any help give me a shout, as i have plenty of spare time these days (Got made redundent at the begining of this month:mad:).
thats not good what so ever best of luck mate getting a job around here again i know how bad it is around here for jobs.
wcdyes is now live with forums.
do u ahve any Orange available? been looking everywhere (europe) to find some...
3 cheers for wcdyes.com being up again :up:
Orange Pre-Mix just went out to a tester over at http://www.specialtech.co.uk/ today. you can make up orange with Red + Yellow dye quite easily and if you after UV orange its a bit harder but i do have a mixture that is UV orange only but pink in normal colour, how ever it is a None mixable dye and i only sell it when requested.
Congrats on getting your site up. Are you shipping to US? I'd like to get an order in today if you're setup for shipping. Thank you.
USA shipping will be enabled in the next few days i need to sort out my UK customers first and get the rest of the liquids up on the site. but ill post once it is enabled.
Very nice - thanks for the reply, and again, congrats on getting everything up & going again. I got here too late to catch your dyes first time through - won't miss this time :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
i dont want uv... normal orange is fine... how many drops of red and yellow? im guessing 2-3 yellow 1-2 red?Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
It all depends on the colour you are trying to make 9lots of different colour oranges out there) as this is personal taste, how ever the ratio is approx 2/1 i cannot say how many drops as if you have a larger water cooling system it will take more and for less water system it will take less.Quote:
Originally Posted by barfastic
if you know how much water you have in your system i can work it out for you so it would give you a good idea of were to start.
Cannot wait for US shipping for the strongest blue you have!
hmm I'm able to checkout with a US address but not sure if its up and running yet for us in the United States
Europe , USA is up and running for small orders.
sweet thanks I just ordered some woohooo I'm glad that you are back hehe
just got the last red
orders shipped guys , all orders cost a little more to the USA as the MSDS sheets are now included so they should pass customs with out any problems. This adds a few pence onto the price of shipping but should guarantee delivery and stop customs messing me around.
As for the red dye there were quite a lot there but re-sellers are snapping them up. Ill get some more up in the next few days once i get time to make them up.
I dont even have a WC kit but I've been wanting your dyes for so long, I decided to snatch some up for future WC build lol
Excellent service the dye turned up the next day & god your ultra mix is strong!
Just got my blue. Cannot wait to see it in action!
Not sure why but my Mayhems red has turned purple w/ less than a month in the loop. Distilled water + 2 drops of PT Nuke + silver coil. Never had any issues w/ the Mayhems blue in my other machine.
this Mayhem's Dye and Ice Dragon in my girl's comp..she wanted HOT pink..she got it..it's been running for close to a year...
http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g7...eathercomp.jpg
blue + red = purpleQuote:
Originally Posted by lowfat
that's if there is any residue from a previous dye (and blue is a pin in the ass to remove if used to much) in the past. we have ran red for (walks away and gets test sheets) 8 months and 1 days with sight loss of colour over his time period (as in its not as bold as it ws when first put in). Colour loss appeared after 10 months approx. My notes say it may have been because we moved my daughters PC near to the window 1 month before hand.
By the way Ice dragon cooling is some bloody good stuff. This is what the dyes were mixed with in my daughters PC as well. How ever stated we did lose a little red dye colour but this may be because of the sun light on it.
In my daughters system she was running a duel core intel water cooled on a 2 x 120 mm XPSC rad temps on start were 25c normal and 48c when playing her games, and at the end of testing were approx 5% higher. So over all we had no problems what so ever. When i did finally rip her system apart there were no blockages.
All so 1 drop of PT nuke is enough in most systems ... if you use to much say 3,4,5,6,7 ect ect it can discolour weak dyes , we found this out in very early testing of dyes and it mainly the Purple that gets discoloured. how ever this is not a flaw in PT nuke or the dyes.
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/4560/004qfi.jpg
were currently testing this as well which is based on red dye -
http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/8720/009oo.jpg
Above is pictured MD-HBN-70 fluids which is a little different to dragon ice cooling fluids. How ever i still have to admit i love Dragons ICE cooling fluid as it been working well in my girls system for quite a while now.
Hi Mayhems dye,
I would like to know which of the silver kill coil or the biocide I should use (you recommend). I would like to flush only every 6 months.
Distilled water + Mayhems dye bright UV red + (silver coil or biocide)
I'm good to go for 6 months straight without flushing?
Regards
Kos
Lol bad question for me...
I Personally don't like Kill coils my self and much prefer either petra biocide or my own biocide (im not bias). I'm very much in the mind set of the old school and fined that once you find some thing that works why switch. With all the who-har surrounding mixed metals and some dogy plating going on and some seriously bad advise floating around on some forums / BBS my personal advise has all ways been stick to copper and plastic, leave the plating up to the people who like to show off.
I don't do a UV red as a dye i only do Red dye and or UV pink. How ever the closet you will ever get to UV red is to use Red dye + UV pink this is how all makers of dyes and pre-mixed liquids make them. You will only need 1 or 2 drops of UV pink to get a UV colour and don't go over board on UV pink as this is one of the worst culprits for staining.
All so I noticed that some bad maker of so called dye bombs who sell some thing called "UV Pink / Orange wich has a Pink base colour , UV orange under UV light"" and recommends you can mix them with other dyes. Well i can tell you right here and now you should never ever on this earth mix UV pink / Orange with any other dyes as they will separate and will cause blockages (first time you will have herd me say that). The dye used in UV pink / Orange is not a mixable dye and never has been. "Primochill" you should be ashamed of your self's peddling :banana::banana::banana::banana: like that and saying its mixable....
Thank you Mayhems dye for an elaborate reply. I will order soon.
Regards
Kos
Video
http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/2821/sinttulofsh.png
http://img862.imageshack.us/img862/6526/img6193.jpg
http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/9294/img6202s.jpg
http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/792/img6206d.jpg
1 Drop
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/4243/img6209y.jpg
http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/9065/img6210u.jpg
http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/744/img6212g.jpg
BEFORE
http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/2553/img6215v.jpg
AFTER (2 drops of Ultra Deep Blue)
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/1617/img6221b.jpg
http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/5051/img6235n.jpg
http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/8575/img6237r.jpg
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/6633/img6238v.jpg
Sorry about the un labled dyes (gifts). that was cos i was in a rush to get them to due because i sent your order to the wrong address first time around.Quote:
Originally Posted by Unrealer
The clear colour is UV clear Blue which you can mix in with either deep purple or Ultra blue to make them UV active :).
Even though colored tubing is a foolproof way to have color that doesn't fade or cause gunk buildup (I'm NOT referencing anybody in particular! Just how dyes have commonly acted in the past) I still like clear tubing with colored water better I think. It just has that sweet glassy look to it.
Mayhems is tempting me to rebuild my loop with clear tubes + his dye instead of the new length of Primochill LRT I have. Just to try it out, heh :)
:yepp:Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
http://img862.imageshack.us/img862/6526/img6193.jpg
- 2 drops per colour
Water
http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/9263/img6245d.jpg
Clear / UV Blue with UV light
http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/5312/img6246j.jpg
Clear / UV Blue with UV light
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/1118/img6247v.jpg
UV Pink
http://img846.imageshack.us/img846/3475/img6248.jpg
UV Pink with UV light
http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/3862/img6249v.jpg
Pink / UV Orange
http://img823.imageshack.us/img823/5327/img6250mq.jpg
Pink / UV Orange with UV light
http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/4680/img6251c.jpg
Yellow
http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/6625/img6252u.jpg
Yellow with UV light
http://img714.imageshack.us/img714/5522/img6253nt.jpg
Red
http://img197.imageshack.us/img197/3366/img6259a.jpg
Red with UV light
http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/2914/img6260j.jpg
Deep Purple
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/267/img6262a.jpg
Deep Purple with UV light
http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/2526/img6263hu.jpg
Deep Purple (mixed with more water)
http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/2746/img6264p.jpg
Deep Blue
http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/9866/img6266ks.jpg
Deep Blue with UV light
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/9132/img6267dd.jpg
Deep Blue (mixed with more water)
http://img709.imageshack.us/img709/2914/img6268z.jpg
Unrealer - send me you address again ill ship some UV yellow / Green.
The UV pink / orange is a none mixable colour. please do not mix that with any other colours else it will cause you problems. (I only normally sell that under special request)
The rest of the colours are mixable.
Yellow + Blue + UV Clear blue = dark green
Red + UV Pink = UV Red
Yellow + Purple = Black
Yellow + Red = Orange / Gold
ect ect
Wow, thanks :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
I saw your ultra blue video on youtube micahel, is 4 drops the max one should put in their loop?
@mlwood37
I'm glad that you're back and going to continue selling your dyes. I haven't been around for a while but that doesn't mean that I didn't do any further testing with your dye. ;)
Do you remember that I asked you if it would be possible to use your dye with Océ cooling liquid?
http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/q...lingliquid.jpg
You told me not to try it but I did it anyway. I've been running that mixture in my loop for a few months now with no problems at all. I think that I also found the reason why sometimes the dye fades very quickly.
Before I used that mixture in my loop, I tried it in a small bottle to see if nothing bad happens and if it would be a good idea to try it in my loop. After a month and no problems at all I decided to try it in my loop.
I also noticed that as long as the small bottle was properly closed nothing happened with the mixture but once the bottle was left open the colour faded very quickly so I think that if the dye fades very quickly it has something to do with air and that there is somekind of oxidation of the dye. :shrug:
I'll try to make some pictures when I've got the time to post them in the thread.
thats interesting and some thing we never tried. I know that purple loses its colour if you add to much bioside. Its some thing i can duplicate here. The other dyes seem to be fine in the line though but never tryied just leaving them in the open air tbh as every thing is sealed and kept as clean as possible while making the fluids. I might just open the res on one of the pcs thats running purpe and see if it effects it at all... no harm in trying :).
A few pictures with a mixture of océ liquid cooling and Mayhems UV green dye.
http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/q...y/oc-dye-1.jpg
http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/q...y/oc-dye-2.jpg
http://i431.photobucket.com/albums/q...y/oc-dye-3.jpg
You can also see how the colour faded from the test mixture in the small bottle in the first picture. The colour doesn't seem to fade in my loop and this is after more than six months with the océ and Mayhems UV green dye. :up:
The UV green dye that I used is from the early days :D and I think that it's replaced with a different UV green dye so the colour might be a little different.
No the original UV green is the same , its just 5x stronger.
The only colours that have changed are the UV blue, and the Red and deep blue is now 10x stronger than before.
The dyes we used before are pretty much the same as they work and don't see the need to change things to much. the only reason for a stronger blue was i has a couple of comments were people would like to see it even stronger so i pushed the deep blue limits and made it go mental.
The largest change is in the water i process as it not only distilled and goes though reverse osmosis but all so is deionised to a ultra pure water at 0tds, 0us when filling. Plus the fact were now sending our graphite liquids to testers.if all goes well and our deal with dragon ice fluids comes though we could be selling 2 types of white liquids.
I just wanted to update you guys on what's going on.
It turns out that all of the dyes Mayhem supplied me with are based on UK color codes, and don't technically exist in the USA.
The USA and our FDA have different dye codes for the same dyes, and in some cases certain versions of dyes that exist in EU or UK don't exist here in the US, and vice-versa.
It took me a month after I got the info from Mick before I could even find a dye supplier that was willing to take the information I had, and try to track down USA analogues... and the only reason they were even willing to do that is because they have a UK office that they can correspond with directly.
That said, for me to be able to produce USA analogues of Mick's dyes, I'm basically having to reverse engineer and test the entire product line from scratch, which is almost impossible considering that I don't have anything but pictures to go on.
I had some settling issues at first, but hooked up with a chemist and through correspondence with the dye company's tech dept., am working my way through the colors one by one.
To complicate matters, some dye colors are made from more than one base, and my dye supplier gave me 2-3 versions of each base to try. That is pretty hellish when you're trying to duplicate a result.
Being that I've pretty much made my own product line from scratch, I'm not sure it would even be appropriate to call these dye's "Mayhem's", because they most certainly are not the same dyes.
When I got started on this, I (incorrectly) assumed that I would just be able to find all of the same dyes, and copy Mick's recipies. That couldn't be farther from the truth.
I am still willing to work with Mick, and send him some samples of my dyes for comparison to his, or whatever he wants to do. I pretty much am just doing this now so it doesn't seem like it was all wasted time, so I'm good with anything. I may just release these under my brand, because they don't really equate to Mick's dyes. That's something I'll have to figure out in time.
edit: On top of all of that, my new job has been INSANE. Luckily a lot of dye testing inolves it just sitting around and waiting for something to happen. It's been a LONG time since I've even logged in or checked in on what is going on in the computer/LC world, because I've been so busy with my new job. It's obvious that quite a few things have changed with Mick since I last was around.
Hi there. Gis a call on email / PM and ill get the USA equivalents for you. so we can get you up and running quicker in the US market. Ill contact my suppliers tomorrow to see if we can find the USA chemical name for all the products. I know that when things were going though customs even when presented with Real MSDS sheets 1/2 the time customs haven't got a clue what they were hence why some places had a total nightmare getting there products. E.G performance Pcs had to wait 2 months before there items arrived and they were sent twice.Quote:
Originally Posted by iandh
I suppose im lucky i have good friends with in the industry that are willing to help me out when creating all these dyes , colours and colourists who work with me.
For 1 im now glad some one understand these dyes are not just thrown together :) ... as suggested by some people.
Mick you need to take the ] out of the link in your sig.:)
http://]www.wcdyes.com
thks for that i miss these little things all the time :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid7
Mayhems used two special secret ingredients which were not listed and which can only be found in Ireland not in the US:
1. Unicorn Blood
2. Leprechaun Tears
Hi Mike. Im using your dye Deep Blue mixed with the Clear Blue UV.It,s ok I know. I have two kilcoils in the resevoir. Did you think I need to use some caine of anticorrosive product? or I keep the liquid like it is now. Thanks
PMSLQuote:
Originally Posted by DarthBeavis
@ea3ot - sorry mate i don't know what system you have and cannot really comment on what liquids you should add. How ever if all you are running is copper in you system then a kill coil will do the trick if how ever you are running mixed metals i would add a inhibitor. (mixed metals such as aluminium)
Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
I use only copper all over
same as me then. Just use kill coils or liquid biocide and you will be fine.
Official statement from Mayhems.
Our Pre-Mixed liquids fall within the guidelines of EK. However “We, I” (wcdyes, Mayhems dyes, Mayhems) are not responsible in any way if your blocks fail due to using our liquids. We have done in-house testing in the past on plated products and never found a problem.
Our Biocide how ever does contain Copper sulphate but in past tests on plated products there was never a problem and it never caused any issues. We will not and cannot guarantee this though so please use with caution.
Adding a few drops of Clear / UV Blue to test...
http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/3605/sinttuloork.png
On line shop will be closed from the 16th till the 26th June any orders made between them dates will not be shipped till the 27th June.
hi mlwood,
been using your dye for more than a year, but i think the dye in my loop break down too fast, current setup is on my sig
how long does it usually last ?
It doesn't matter what loop you have got, you will need to check your PH levels of your liquid in you set up all so what biocides you using and how much of it. All so any pictures. before and after. Do u have a sample of the liquid so we can test it.
http://img839.imageshack.us/img839/3...deodisplay.jpg
@mlwood 37:
Ideally what should be the PH in the coolant?
ok, so use dissitiled water with silver as my biocide. the loop consist of water blocks that have gold,nickel,and cooper surfaces. not too sure about checking the pH but i dont have any exact before & after pictures..
Oky PH is important and why "some" pre-mixed liquids fail. The ideal PH is 7 how ever Pre-mixed liquids fall between 7.2 and 8 depending on how much chemical they have in them. A primixed liquid is quite hardy though and has a good PH range.
E.g our pre-mixed liquid is 7.4 PH
How ever Ultra pure H20 is at 7.2 + a UV blue dye makes it 7.3, add more dye it will go to 7.4. Now when it comes to Purple i found that going to 7.9 / 8 PH causes the dye to start fading and hitting 8.4 make it relay weak. This can be achieved by adding to much biocide into a loop or when the loop has not been cleaned correctly and may have flux in it. Im still testing my theory and what i have said so far is "NOT" 100% proof of any thing.
Im just trying to find out why some dyes fade and what we can do to stop it.
The same effect all so is good to find out as well for reason that some systems stain better than other's and this again is down the the PH balance all so many other things can effect it to. So there is no simple answer tbh.
Some of the testing im up to atm this all takes time though.
Quote:
Im going to use this post just to show you some of the testing we do with mayhems products to make sure they fall with in recommended guidelines (all though un written) for all of mayhems product lines.
First few tests are about PPM and PH balance of our liquids
First we start off with ultra Pure water -
The test is quite simple we use a small stick that tells us the PPM and PH of the liquids
Picture is of Ultra Pure H20 from mayhems - 2 days after filling, you can just make out the test stick below the bottle. The reason why i wait 2 days is because it gives time for the liquids to settle and all so will show if there are any imperfections by then. We all so test when the liquids are being made with a in-line test meter so this test just double checks and confirms our initial tests.
http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/5287/dscf7556.jpg
Next we stick the test stick into the water for 2 min while shacking the bottle a little. We need a reading of as much of the liquid as possible with out contaminating the source.
http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/5503/dscf7557t.jpg
Then we check the stick colours to the side of the bottle to pull out quick and simple readings.
http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/597/dscf7560p.jpg
As you can see from this quick test out PPM = 0 and out PH balance is 6.8 to 7.00 = this is perfect and proves our claims of 0 PPM will do tests for Us once my calibrating liquids have arrived (ive used up all mine now).
Next we look at the Premixed liquids.
Again first shot it of bottle , and test stick
http://img802.imageshack.us/img802/1214/dscf7562.jpg
Then again a good 2 min of dipping and swishing the liquids about.
http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/1424/dscf7563w.jpg
Then the results ...
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/4889/dscf7566s.jpg
Now once again the liquid is at 0 PPM how ever the PH of the liquid is 7.5 (it looks higher but that's just camera flash) how ever once again its still in the middle of the range.
This is just to show you that once again we take our liquids very serious and even though we don't normally claim much what we do claim is real.
What i all so show you is the premixed liquids with various colours added. Why becuase when we add dyes the liquids change there PPM and there PH. Normally when a manufacture states a PPM , TDS or PH that only do it from there none dyed liquids and then they use the same literature across the whole range.
So another quick Shot here is the testing of Mayhems Ultra Pure H20 5 Ltr.
As you can see in the picture our hand meter shows not only the temperature of the liquid but all so the uS reading .....
http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/9172/dscf7571e.jpg
http://img710.imageshack.us/img710/5183/dscf7570f.jpg
So the temp is 16.3 C and the uS is 0 .
What's does this mean ?
well it basic mean its none conductive at the point of bottling. What i shall do it take a picture in 5 days time of the same bottle with the meter and show you how it fairs when stored properly in a food safe container as we use in all our bottles. How ever a pre warning Just because our meters show there none conductive doesn't mean that once the liquid hits you water cooling loop it will stay that way. If you still have flux, dust or any thing like that in your loop the uS value will go up and make the liquids conductive and this doesn't take much.
This meter is just one of 4 meters we have for testing all out claims, We have 2 in-line duel test meter (TDS / uS) in our water making equipment and then the Stick test Kit as well as out hand held electronic test kit. All are calibrated weekly and ever 25 Ltr of liquid is tested before being used. The in-line test meter Alarm when any thing over 0.001 TDS comes out and the water is rejected.
When i get time im going to go out buy some DI water from halfords since that seems to be popular brad to use and run it under the same tests, ill all so get some generic bands and again show you what you get. I know last year in previous test the quality of some so called DI water was 10 uS and DI water minimum should me 5 uS how ideally no more than 1 uS.
This by the way is un-bias testing and only here to show you what we do to make our liqudis the best. You can do any of this testing your self at any time and our methods are open to question any time.
UV Specialtech Blue
http://img51.imageshack.us/img51/9512/dscf7581l.jpg
uv Purple -
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/6316/dscf7585h.jpg
orange - colour matched close to gigabyte bord's
http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/7542/dscf7588k.jpg
Bright red
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/3653/dscf7590g.jpg
Blood curdling red
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/8243/dscf7591h.jpg
anna pink (my daughter made this .......)
http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/9826/dscf7584.jpg
right off to pack for my hols now whoot ....
They look like smoothies. *shock*
See mayhems dye isnt just for plain colours it can be mixed with any thing :) ....
Ive just seen DB's pic of his lovely pc and its working fine.
BTW i think i need to lock this thread out and start a new one its getting way to long.
Your thread has more posts than you - epic dude ;).
What happened to the 5L water btw? Got it from ST last time and no idea where to get decent stuff in moderate quantity. Those 1L bottles go nowhere when youre messing with a big single loop :(.
so Mick for the dye
all I would need is distilled water + a few drops of dye and the biocide correct?
also what is the max drops I can put in my reservoir, I want to get a deeeeeep blue going?
I plan on using the Ultra Blue, if I change my liquid every 3-4 months will I experience any gunk that other dyes leave?
@ PiLsY - 5 Ltr back in stock at ST - http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/...pid-12532.html All thought it is going fast.
@Phaseshift - All you need is biocide think of dye as a add-on to a normal water cooling system. Dyes don't gunk, changing you liquids out is up to your self. Personally ive been running dyes in my own system for over 1 year now and its still going strong. How ever i all ways recommend change liquids out ever 6 to 9 months. As for how many drops for deep blue you only need a couple of drops.
So just disttilled and biocide + few drops of dyeQuote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
do you have a recommendation on clear tubing?
I was thinking about using tygon 3603
i cannot relay recommend tubing as many people on here have different idea's. My self i found tygon caused plastic to accumulate in the pins of my heat killers so i stopped using that.
All so i throw away tubing every year and use clean tubing each year as it only cost £5.00 to replace it all and to me is a worth while investment.
atm im using ClearFlex 60 3/8" ID - 5/8" OD (10-16mm) and it seems to work fine.
Oky finished testing the Premixed liquids and Ultra Pure H20 then worked out the average of them. 10 of each liquid was tested and results marked up.
The reading has a range because each liquid fell in between these ranges over the test period and this makes more sense to do it this way.
Mayhems Premixed X1 liquids -
TDS - 0.02 to 0.05 @25c
Us - 0.01 to 0.05 @ 25c
PH - 7.4 to 7.5 @ 25c
Mayhems Ultra Pure H20
TDS - 0.00 to 0.05 @25c
Us - 0.009 to 0.05 @ 25c
PH - 7.8 to 8.01 @ 25c (this may seem high how ever we do not use chemicals to realign it we keep it as pure as possible)
This is accurate readings taken over a period of 5 days with both liquids using digital meters that are calibrated before each test. PH meter is calibrated with 7 PH, 4 PH and 10 PH liquids, the TDS meter tested with 225 TDS liquids @ 25c.
When i get back from my hol's ill test our Biocide in full detail when added to Ultra Pure H20 and Halfords liquids. All so we will test the dyes to see what effect they have.
Mick, could you tell me how to make the UV Specialtech Blue? It has exactly the color I want for my loop :D!
http://i52.tinypic.com/11qk1f5.jpg
6 drops of Deep Blue, although I just noticed that I ordered Ultra Blue and got a deep blue
is it safe to add more than 6 drops, i want it to be darker. What would be the max drops to put in a loop if there is any?
Ultra Blue / Deep Blue is the same (just beefed up blue). i Just haven't changed the name on labels, normally 5 drops is enough, you cannot get it any deeper. To get a real dark blue you could either add a tiny amount of purple or red to tinge it a little darker how ever when i say tiny i mean take red or deep purple, add 1 drop to 100mls of water then carefully add the new mix into blue to darken it (give each drop 30 to 45 seconds to circulate)..
We are looking into changing the branding and all so the labels with in the next few months to some thing more suitable as were expanding the product range from dyes and liquids eventually.
UV Specialtech Blue will only be made once i get the go ahead. Its just blue + yellow + White mixture.
thanks mik, I just snet you an email through wcdyes.comQuote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
do you have any pictures of what it would look like if one were to add purple or red to the blue?
hi mayhem, do you have any deep green dyes in your selection?
question 1:should I mix the dye after filling the loop with distilled water, or should I mix the dye + distilled BEFORE putting in the loop?
question 2: Is there a difference in color between your Pre-Mix Blue and Ultra Blue Dye + 1 ltr of distilled?
Pre-mix is a vegetable extract liquid with the Deep blue dye. Only sell this in the UK atm. If you after shipping pre mix abroad you could try a different re-seller of our liquids.
I normally do all my mixing of liquids before going in the system. A lot of people do it in there system but i find to do it out side you can mess up as much as you like and not worry about removing it from your system.
I test all my mixes first in normal tap water + dye and once i found the perfect match i then use ultra Pure H20.
Thanks Mick, now my question goes back to getting a darker colored blue. If all dyes are the same how come feser
one dye/premixed seem to keep their color throughout the tubes and the reservoir? Is there something in their properties that makes it different?
I would provide pictures but I'm using my iPhone, you can find others using feser one dye/premixed blue in the liquid cooling case thread.
As such in this post
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...=1#post4809595
All the blue are the same its just camera angles, light, tubing ect ect.
again to change it to a deeper colours you can add a darker colour or add more dye how ever don't go to nuts.
This is why we sell the dyes the way we do so that you can make your own colours. If we made just 1 colour people would ask us how to make it darker , lighter ect ect. So instead we let you do that.
Mick do you have an opinion regarding Ice dragon? I would like to find something white to use.
TIA
Yeh i think ice dragon is a really good fluid and think its perfect for GPU loops.
Thank you!Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
Mick, when will you ship to the US again?
Once we stop getting hacked yes ...
The only reason why you cannot access our shop in some parts of the US is because weve blocked the ip range the attacks are coming from. Were working on a new web site atm and once that goes live it will be more secure.
You can all ways contact me direct at sales at wc dyes dot com and we will sort some thing out.
All so this thread should change were no longer home made dyes hehe .. were expanding into a new place :) ..
Thanks for the reply. What dyes would I need to order to get this color? I'm going to get the following currently from your site:Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
-5 Ltr Mayhems Ultra Pure H20
-Mayhems Silver Coil
Besides the dyes you recommend, should I get anything else, such as biocide?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v3...cf4356800o.jpg
Just deep blue thats all you need a 5ml bottle will do you upwards of 25 Ltrs.
If you what it UV active add UV Clear blue to the mix.
Thanks Mick, just placed an order shipping to California.Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
Hi there im realy sorry if your order is the one ive just refunded we cannot ship 5 Ltr bottle over there. You are better off using distilled water at your end as it would be much cheaper. It will cost us £40 to ship a 5 Ltr bottle of Ultra Pure H20 to you and i feel this would be a complete and utter rip off.
Check your emails. because it was a :banana::banana::banana::banana: up because of the hacking that took place. Ill ship your order out minus the Ultra Pure for free. Its not your fault this happened.
Mick
Thanks again for everything Mick.Quote:
Originally Posted by mlwood37
Do you have any pics comparing the uv green and the uv green-yellow both in regular and uv light? I can't seem to decide which one I want. Btw, I signed up on your site but it does not give me any option for international shipping at checkout, ???
Thanks,
-wermad
Hi there when we moved over to the new host it dropped all the shipping options. Ive updated these now so you would be able to use them.
UV yellow green looks yellow in a loop under normal light and Green under UV light.
UV Green looks green under normal Light and under UV light looks Green as well.
I have updated the pictures on the site now so you can see the different colours in the dye section of UV and None UV colours.
The site will be changing soon in Nov to a much cleaner and much better looking site. This will be the same time we release Aurora and Pastel range.
Thanks a million :)
In your opinion, of the two, which one has the most pronounce green under uv light? I'm looking for something along the lines of "toxic" green :D Thanks,
-wermad