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Are you cooling GPUs, if so which one and how many? If you have a 120x3 for your I7, then adding the MB to that loop is just fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Barso
If your running GPUs also, you might want to look into getting another rad and adding those to their own sub loop.
Not cooling any GPU's.
Just the HK3.0 and the new chipset block.
What order should the loop be?
res-CPU-chipset-rad-res?
@ millertime359
I am wanting to cool my videocard. Your system looks like 1 loop for rad. And another for CPU and GPU. Is this so? I'm running a T3 now but only cooling the CPU right now. It would be great if I didn't need another radiator. I have a Swiftech 320 and am looking to cool a GTX 275. I'm also still on a Core 2.
Yep, I have my MCR320 on its own loop and HK 3.0 and MCW60 on their own loops and everything is fine.Quote:
Originally Posted by surfhick
My E8400 is still stock clocked. I haven't gotten a chance to work on the OC yet. The GTX260 is running at 650/1400/1100. I haven't stressed the CPU yet, but playing COD4 the other day, I saw a peak of 46 on GPU and 42 on CPU. I think ambient was around 25.
I would just play around with it and see what you like. :up:
@Barso,
Loop order doesn't matter, just set it up for shortest tubing. :)
how is the heat transfered to the rad if the rad is in its own loop?Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Thanks millertime359. All I've done so far, is crank my E8400 up 3.6 ghz. It barely hit 40 C. on the inner core. Following your lead, or should I say copying you, would sure save me some money. Compared to my original idea.
I think the heat transfers in the reservoir. If I'm remembering some earlier posts correctly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Hondacity
Or, the cooler liquid from the radiator mixes with the warmer liquid from the blocks in the T3 reservoir.
He was pointing out a typo. Technically it is a sub-loop and not an individual loop.Quote:
Originally Posted by surfhick
IIRC, BoxGods has said that the water gets turned over 17 times a min so it shouldn't a problem doing that. You can always try just putting everything on it's own loop. I haven't tried that as my temps are fine and I'm not certain if I would see a difference.
Didn't catch that. I always call it two loops for simplicites sake.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Thats what I was going to do at first but since my setup is almost the same as yours I'm going to do the same.
Yeah, the nomenclature is a little obtuse. (I love that sentence lol).
Dual loops is two discrete loops each with it's own pump and radiator etc.
Parallel loops are typically a single pump that drives two "branches" or sub loops, although obviously you could configure multiple pumps in a parallel configuration. A better definittion might be a setup where water in the loop/s will eventually pass through every component.
Millertime is correct that the fluid exchanges in the T3 are quite rapid. Even if only one of your loops has a radiator on it it will still cool all the fluid in both loops because the system will always hit equilibrium. If you were to calculate how long it takes water to make a full circuit of your loop/s you might be a little shocked to see how rapidly this happens.
^ +1 this...Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
The only time where i wouldn't see it play out carefully is if your Rad loop was much much much longer then your block loop.
is it normal that this crap res keeps leaking from every mounting hole ????
surely u have to do something here, trying to fix it my self because hell im not gone wait for a RMA or something!!!
if u want some pics where my problems are boxgods let me know its just pissing me off that i payed 60€ for somethings thats leaking from day ONE.
Are you using BP, Koolance, etc fittings or the included fittings?Quote:
Originally Posted by blind_ripper
If you are using any of the other fittings you have to use a thicker o-ring. The o-ring is a USA standard #9. Some guys from overseas have had issues finding that exact o-ring. Vapor did post measurements, but I forget exactly where.
I did a quick google search and found these measurements. I'm not positive they are correct though: 5/8"OD x 7/16"ID x 3/32" wall
Some guys have taken the o-rings off the included fittings and stacked them on the o-rings from the other fittings and haven't had an issue that way. :up:
i changed the O-rings on my bp fittings with thicker one's that not the problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
the one's that came with the res leak like hell!!
the res leaks at the mounting to fit it in the case !!
What coolant are you using?Quote:
Originally Posted by blind_ripper
Or another question is, did you tighten the mounting points too hard? Is there any cracking or spalling around the metal female threading points? I mean, looking at mine, I can't see how it would leak around those unless they were cracked because they look fully encased in acrylic.
nothing to do with leaking :p:.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
yeah they where cracked there, i did not tighten them to hard.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketzer7
first mount = cracked very easy, sure crap for me.
i cant find my self in where that should be normal! when the pump is running no leaking, when its shutdown leaking.
same for pre packed fittings, pure crap (not even bother using them)
Actually it may. Ethylene Glycol is not suppose to be used in the T3 and someone has already posted here about using it and having some really bad results.Quote:
Originally Posted by blind_ripper
Just trying to rule some things out.
no glycol's in the coolant, il post pics later on tonight.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Great, that will help alot. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by blind_ripper
It sucks you are having issues, but BoxGods and Brian are great to deal. I had issues with my first one and they took care if it. :)
What was your issue MT? Don't think I remember seeing you say anything about that
:ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketzer7
It was way back. I got one of the first T3s with the yellow band and had hair line fractures around the band. The fill port holes weren't drilled properly either. There were small chips and the countersink wasn't uniform. It looked like the bit was rolled during drilling.
Its all good though. Brian and Boxgods sent a new one and it has worked perfect ever since. :up:
I just heard demand is still big for this reservoir so much that my danish retailer cant get hold of any, is this true?
botem one
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...r/DSC01412.jpg
top one
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...r/DSC01413.jpg
u can clearly see thet the coolant is coming out, hairline crack at fill port in front also.
had to gleu these up some, but not 100% leak free. it whas gleuing or no pc for me.
the other side is giving away now to and started leaking also this night!
Seems to be. Looks like Primochill is OOS again. If you want one, I would just call Brian @ Primochill and find out when they come back into stock. :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mech0z
[/QUOTE] can clearly see thet the coolant is coming out, hairline crack at fill port in front also.
had to gleu these up some, but not 100% leak free. it whas gleuing or no pc for me.
the other side is giving away now to and started leaking also this night![/QUOTE]
Mine is doing the same thing, Is Primochill going to replace for you?
I was worried about cracking the Acrylic when I was doing my build so I just finger tightened the inlet/outlet barbs then gave a 1/4 turn with a tool but it leaked so I gave another 1/4 turn and it worked, for a little while but now cracks have shown up in the back and I had to glue to still use my pc, but now the mounting holes in the side are cracking and leaking and I do not know what to do.
I've sent BoxGods a PM. Mellow, could you post pics too?
My system is still running, will get pictures shortly. My issue Is a little different than his I think. Looking more closely (when facing the front) the upper right hand corner where the mounting hole for the backplate and the mounting hole for the side are close to each other. When I turn the system on it will suck air in through there and when I turn the system off I get rather fast leak that goes between the backplate and the res and then drop down onto my CD drive. It is NOT coming from the pump O-ring, the leak is outside of the O-ring but still behind the mounting plate for the pump. Where could I post a video? That should show it best I think, but may be hard to capture the water moving behind the plate.
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...&pictureid=838
1: This area will get clear like area 2 when It starts leaking
3: Behind this is where the air/leak are coming from.
Hard to see the air bubble that is there, but that is where it will suck in all the air from and then push it out when off.
You were using PC Ice right Mellow? The only way I know to post video is host it on youtube and link it.
i would just give Brian a call at PrimoChill about it. BoxGods has been busy, so not certain when he will make it on.
Mellowyellow like this ?
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...r/DSC01417.jpg
sorry for the high res pics guy's ;).
same here bubbels come and go, when the pomp is running no problem no leaking.
but when i shut it down it start finding cracks and so on. when the pomp is started again it sucks small bit off air inside.
What coolant are you using Ripper?
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...r/DSC01431.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...r/DSC01432.jpg
this :), u can read it ?CONTAINS NO GLYCOL
Yes blind Rip just like that.... I opened a ticket at PromoChill but haven't had any response at all.
I was just curious bud. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by blind_ripper
Call Brian: 888.333.4942
he is the one who normally answers when you call that techline. I'm not certain what the deal is with tickets through Primochill, but have heard a few people not getting answers when submitting tickets. I called and got the ball rolling right away when mine had its issue. :up:
Does Europe have MSDS (material safety data sheet) or some equivalent that will list all the ingredients in a given product? If so, I'd request one from Nanoxia for that fluid because something is not right. They are either using glycol and saying they aren't or it has some kind of alcohol in it.Quote:
Originally Posted by blind_ripper
glycol's or any alcohol would make the tubing and res go milky right ?Quote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
Waterlogged stated it better, but that is what i was getting at. There were photos of someone else that used glycol and it did the same thing that is happening to yours. It won't necessarily make your tubing cloud up though.Quote:
Originally Posted by blind_ripper
I would just email Brian. I'm pretty sure he would replace it for you seeing your coolant did say there isn't any glycol in it. I would stop using that coolant after that. :)
If that turns out to be what caused this, I'm even more on the distilled + silver KC FTW bandwagon..
what kind off coolant can i use then ?
I've learned from hearing it multiple times on here that the safest bet is always plain old distilled water with a silver killcoil in the res or one of the tubesQuote:
Originally Posted by blind_ripper
distilled water :)
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketzer7
I run distilled and silver in mine. Running colored tubing gets you the internal bling. Hook up the LEDs and there is plenty of bling. A few pages back is a photo of the T3 lit up.
Sorry for the delay answering guys. Me, my wife, Brian and his Wife, Boddaker and his wife, and Darth Bevis and his wife all met in Vegas for 3 days or R and R and I just landed at home an hour ago. Yeah, those cracks are chemical reaction cracks. I am sorry that you had the issue but there is a label on the actual Reservoir now warning not to use or clean with Glycol or alcohol products. NO acrylic reservoir can handle those chemicals--it is not limited just to the T3. If you have to use Fesser or some other brand of fluid that uses them you need to use a plain (non clear) Delrin type of reservoir. Distilled is always the safest choice but non glycol based fluids are also fine. PC ICE, Fluid XP (I think).
For the record ALL T3 post production is now handled by my shop so NOTING leaves here that is not 100% inspected and pressure tested to 25 PSI for 5 minutes. This final stage is not even left up to an employee (although all my guys are awesome). The QC'ed By and the letter M on the box is my wife. The down side to that is that we can only get out about 200 T3's a month between other jobs which I am OK with if it means I know for SURE everything leaves here as it should be. Having ONE shop handle all post production and ONE person inspect and sign off on Quality control removes any doubt or finger pointing lol. If a T3 ships that has an issue, we did it (that doesn't include people putting in glycol or alcohol of course).
Good to hear you guys all got to take a vacation there Geno. :up:
Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
Ok I haven't used Glycol or alcohol, but only used PC Ice, which you just recommended. So what options does this leave me with now?
Are you handling the pumps too? Because It was supoosed to come with a D5 basic but it is stamped on the back D4.
I do not totally want to give up on this product, but as far as I know I have not done anything wrong and my product is so far not doing me any good.
I just seen this in one of your photos it is cracks at the mounting point, see it in the bottom right corner?
http://www.primochill.com/images/det...s/TIII_PEC.jpg
That D4 stamped was discussed in an earlier thread. IIRC, those are left over D4 bodies or something like that. The pump is a D5. I thought you said in another thread you were using PC Ice, so you are fine on that part.
BoxGods was just posting another disclaimer as there have been a few issues with people using coolants with glycol and those using alcohol based cleaning products on them as well.
Just give Brian a call tomorrow, if you haven't already, and see what he says. :up:
I will do, I really do not want to give up on this product, and I very much want to love it and rave about it but I just can't yet. I know it is very new and they have gone through several changes to make it better for us, so I am not bashing just wanting to fix an issue I hope no one saw it other than that way.
Thanks
Edit: Ok posting their cracks was a tad bash, but I just wanted to show its not just me.
well i have to say i got F**Kt bij the coolant brand !!!Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y90...r/DSC01432.jpg
why the hell on earth should i buy something that say's NO GLYCOL???
read what is say's, this is really pissing me off.
it might still have alcohol in it?
As I posted before Blindripper, BoxGods posted that as a disclaimer. If the coolant is at fault, its not your fault as you checked for a coolant that does not have glycol in it.
The only way to solve your problem though is to get a hold of Brian @ PrimoChill. You may have to send him an e-mail seeing you are out of the country, but getting on here complaining like you are isn't going to help you get it fixed.
If you don't want to do that, then I don't know what to tell you. :shrug:
I am not familiar with that brand but I doubt they would print a label that says no glycol then put glycol in it as it is a pretty toxic chemical. Might as well just call the product "Just sue me" lol.
As for the cracked picture from Brian. That is very likely an original test mule from the batch that was tested to failure and for compatibility. Not making excuses, I can tell that because it has the pretty aqua compression fittings which were also the test parts.
No I do not have anything to do with the pumps.
I think its fair enough.. every1's saying its one specific thing.. when it blatentley isnt, i'd be a lot more pissed off then he was tbh :shrug::shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Hey BG, just got my top port version from Brian today and it looks great and I think it's going to work perfectly for putting an Aquacomputer tubemeter in there. Thanks for helping out with the pointer to that vid so I could get an idea of what it looked like.
That plug in the top port was in there so tight, I was afraid to take it out for fear of breaking it right out it need so much force :rofl: If your wife put that in, I don't think I ever want to have to arm wrestle her... ;) j/k
Thanks again! :up:
Main reason for that post was he orginial post here:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesrt2004
We are trying to help him and that damage that he showed us looks like the results of Glycol. He showed us the coolant he used and it reads that there isn't any glycol in it, so the warranty isn't void. The only thing he can do is get a hold of Brian and RMA it.Quote:
Originally Posted by blind_ripper
Unless something got lost in translation, he doesn't want to RMA it, so only other option is to trash it and get a new res.
Not at all. Does your T3 have a 1/4" pump mounting bracket or the new 3/8" mounting bracket? We switched to the 3/8" (Yes CM I now got your meaning) and allen screws to prevent the tendency to over tighten those screws. The problem is that once the bracket has touched the T3 body any further tightening does nothing but subject those brass inserts to high loading. With the allen screws it is just harder to over tighten them. I am not saying you did of course, but if a user does use one of the chemicals that can cause cracking, the cracks will form in high stressed areas first--like the inserts.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mellowyellow
The T3 is a very sturdy well made acrylic and polycarbonate product but at the end of the day it is still a plastic part--worse a clear plastic part. It puts me in a tough spot because ANY clear plastic part will have issues with glycol, alcohol etc and will always loose the fight with an over tightened screw--that's why we use the inserts.
We are coming up on two thousand T3's now in service...and unfortunately people without issues rarely post :(
I have also seen several threads (not here) where a well meaning guy will tell somebody that PrimoChill is saying use PrimoChill fluids just to make people buy their fluids and that any fluid is fine. That is 100% NOT the case. Using a cleaning solution with alcohol (which a lot of windex type products have) or a cooling fluid with alcohol or glycol WILL DESTROY any acrylic part, and likely any clear plastic part. The warning message is posted right on the product page, is on a sticker right on the T3...and people still think it is some kind of sales ploy. Then when it breaks they get mad.
Anytime =)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ketzer7
You need to check out Vapors test bench and see what he mounted on his top port lol.
She is only 5' tall and 100 pounds but has some GUNS on her lol. It is actually some sort of hydrolic lock I think that results from testing at pressure because if I put in a plug, then remove it its just normal, but if I put in the plug, air the part up to 25 PSI while it is under water I noticed the plugs are harder to get out. We debated for a while if we should build a semi automated pressure testing tank that just pressed rubber stopper type plugs into all the ports and had a rubber stopper type air inlet but the consensus was that it was better to test with the actual parts that come with a T3 because then it not only tests the bonded joint but also the seats for the O rings and the threads. It burns a LOT of time though. She refuses to let me add a manifold so that she can test 2 or more parts at the same time because she can only watch for tiny bubbles on one at a time. Her procedure is to prep and submerge one, hit the timer, prep the next which takes about 60 seconds, pull the plugs and/or pump from the one coming out of the tank which is about 60 seconds, dry the part off with a micro fiber cloth, then air which is another 60 seconds. That puts her at three minutes and she spends the next two just watching the submerged part for any tiny bubbles. Rinse and repeat. I simply could not do it. I would be insane after 10 minutes with boredom and end up designing a machine to insert the plugs, submerge the part, and some sort of camera to watch for bubbles.
I'm not having anymore issues with mine, other than needing to get the non vario pump replaced with the vario one and adding the LEDs in. :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
I been lazy. :(
It has the 3/8's and the allen screws, I never have worked with acrylic before and I was worried about over tightening, so I did slightly over flush then tightened again when it leaked cause I thought it was not well seated. Same with the inlet ports, those were a little weird, when tight one side of the thread would be in slightly more flush while the other side left more room for the O-ring and it was not completely flush. It was like it wasn't going all the way in.. I am not completely sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
I am glad you have 2000 units in service with out issues, that means my next one will be spot on..
Side note, why isn't there directions with the unit?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mellowyellow
If your seeing threads in one side and not on the other (in other words the fitting is not flat) when your putting the compression fitting in then you might have cross threaded it. When you start a screw or fitting if it feels a bit tight or "weird" for want of a better word, don't keep going. Back it out and try again.
For the mounting plate, once the plate that holds the pump in has touched the back of the T3 stop. If you continue tightening the screw acts just like a screw jack and will apply a lot of pressure to the insert.
The no directions is mostly because I am lazy sadly :(
That and I can't say no to people with "little projects" lol. Brian at PrimoChill says he has gotten tired of waiting on me and has put somebody on that job. We shall see.
Not quite at 2000 yet but almost, and there have been SOME issues of course. The bonding band, short supply, the ethylene glycol and alcohol issues, the scratches from the mold etc. As far as I know (and I don't get to see any official information of course) but there were about 40-50 RMA's out of the first 1K units and I am hoping less on the second thousand since we took over post. Even if we don't do better then the other shops did on post production (and we do) and there is another 50 RMA's on the second thousand what is that...5% or less? Not perfect of course but pretty good IMHO.
It truly truly was not cross threaded, the difference from the top to the bottom was very small but as we all know that is enough for water to pass, I wish I had a picture when it was out. I even just read a thread about an hour ago where someone said something as well... let me see if I can find it once again.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
reading through this thread really makes me want one now.... :( Now I just have to sell all my leftover hardware to get one... 5% RMA isn't that bad considering it is such a small product run. Where there is a product there will always be a failed/damaged/broken product. It is impossible to completely avoid mistakes in manufacturing but it is still something to strive for and 5% is pretty darn good BG :up:
The holes are tapped on a machine but a human DOES load them so it is possible. I assure you I WILL paddle her fanny when I get home tonight ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Mellowyellow
Yeah when you consider the injection molding is done on the other side of the planet, shipped to another location for annealing, shipped to Texas for post...kind of amazing really. Then shipped to I think 10 countries now. I know I have learned a TON on this project that is for sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by sniperbob
:ROTF::ROTF::ROTF:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mellowyellow
Still no instructions hey Geno, and I thought I was lazy. :p:
I have mine with top fillport (the fittings on the fillport is very tight)
using :
distiled water with .999 plain silver "home made coils"
all temps decrease 12Cº
I`m so happy with this res
using MCP 655 without speed controler
with this pump is very loud jajajajajajaja
could you guy´s tell me how to put speed controler ?
Glad you like it Strike. I know what you mean about the pump. The best option is to get the 655 with speed controller and either sell your non vario, or keep it as a back-up pump.
Another option is to get something like this BigNG. A regular fan controller can not handle a pump.
millertime359 yes I´m thinking of buying one of that stuff
but so so expencive puffffff
is there another method ?
if not I´m going to buy a vario pump
Not really. The controllers that can handle a pump are all around that $100 price range.
I would just get the vario pump and you may be able to sell your non-vario to help off-set the cost. :)
thanks millertime359
Quote:
Originally Posted by strike
I am looking into Potentiometers that can handle 12v rails, these should work rather well, the only difference in using a Potentiometer other than a fan/pump controller is that a Potentiometer will always use the same amount of energy but uses resistance to control voltage to what ever it is you want to control, and I think the fan/pump controllers actually use software to control the voltage going to the pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
Yeah, I wondered about using a pot as well...I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work except maybe the RPM limiting built into the pump. Of course I am about as electronically inclined as a rock.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mellowyellow
About the same for me. Only when there is smoke, fire, sparks, or I wake up with someone with paddles over me do I know if it will work or not.Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
:eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by Mellowyellow
When I was 5 years old I was struck by lightning (really) so I think I have a subconscious aversion to electricity lol.
I was standing in a foot and a half of water on a clogged cast iron sewer drain holding a big yellow Tonka Truck and I smelled something weird, stood up to look around and a ton of bricks landed on my head. The smell of course was ozone. My feet took the brunt of the damage (barefoot of course) and I refused to get into the bathtub for about 6 months but it could have been a LOT worse.
That explains so much Geno. :p:
Thats CRAZY!!!!!! Puts a lot of pieces of the puzzle into place now but that still nuts!!Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
There should be just enough in this picture to tell what's going on in with my 8-port ;)
http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/360/dallas3.jpg
My res has a res! :eek:
I have had mine for over two months and all I can say is that I think it is great. With the top port it's pretty easy to bleed, about 10 minutes to get the air out of the pump and then I am good to go. No issues with leaks, but I will say I wish manufactures would quit putting a dip around the fitting hole. If it was flat there would be no need for different sized o-rings. Now I just need a 4 bay 5 1/4" one that holds two D5's and does two to 4 loops. C'mon Boxgods, you can do it. :D
On a side note, Box Gods, where is that new block you were talking about and the other stuff we talked about? I know "What happens in Vegas, stays in Vegas", but c'mon. :D
+1 ^^^^^^^
I love mine too. The non vario pump is a little loud, but I have a vario pump now and with do a better job mounting it this time. That should help with the noise.
So Vapor, the 8 ports are divided in the center then? So you can run dual parallel loops. :D
quick Q how does the "front" (i take it its literally on the front of the drive bay) fillort thing work? is it like a plug etc lean case back unscrew it fill etc etc or am i wrong?
Yep, set your case on its back and pop open the fillports, then fill. It really is easy, even easier if you have a spare PSU. You don't have to worry about the plug then.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamesrt2004
The top fill port option is for those with a MM case. Where it is a pain to flip it on its back seeing it is a coffee table. :p:
ah ok sounds pretty easy :) probably will go for this just cos ease of use etc :)
Blocks are progressing. I know waiting sucks but getting it right is important to me. I am on the 4th version and still finding little way to improve performance--also looking at manufacturing as a performance metric as the ENTIRE process fascinates me. The new split window reservoir has gone gold and is in manufacturing now. There is a dual tank and single tank for those wanting to run true Dual loop setups. I think the SFF guys will especially like it as I made it as shallow as you can for a single bay reservoir. I will post images here first as soon as I get the OK.
Features:
HA. Not making THAT mistake again lol. TBA.
I got my T3 back yesterday, Brian is a breaze to work with. No issues at all what so ever now, starting a 24 hour leak test now.
Yes he is. Glad you got it replaced. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Mellowyellow
No division at all in the res :p:Quote:
Originally Posted by millertime359
A shared reservoir between two loops allows me to control flowrates through the waterblocks but not effect the flow through the radiators :)
The res on the res allows me to go 3-4 block changes without adding any water at all :D
OIC, very cool :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
+1 on both.Quote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
BoxGods is being such a tease now. :p:
I'm confused....Quote:
Originally Posted by Vapor
As for mine,
24 leak test, score, 100% leak free. Now to bring the temps up for long periods and see if anything loosenes up. No cracks, no stress marks, nada.
DB is mad at Obama's Tax policies lol. I think the Nobel folks probably DID pick him too soon (9 months in office) but were maybe trying to empower him a bit to do some good with the remainder of his term. No matter your party affiliation we HAVE had pretty worthless presidents for almost 2 DECADES now ...
Pics of unreleased products got me in trouble the last time UT...not being a tease just don't want all the drama this go round is all.
I haven't forgotten, but I am still going to harass you until I see some pics. :rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
+1 :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Utnorris
I will share that I am seeing some very interesting results on parallel/dual loop vs single loop in the CPU blocks thus far.
And DB...what happened to the no posting after the 4th jager rule? ;)
:rofl:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
:rofl::rofl::up:Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
He forgets after the 2nd Jäger. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by BoxGods
It might be better if the chiller wasn't so close to the computer. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Waterlogged
trouble with this Primochill Typhoon iii , when I unpacked it last week I noticed a small imperfection in the front that looks like a hairline crack and also saw another in the metal screw anchors in the plastic didn't think much of it .. filled with water early today and surely the crack by the anchor starting leaking , I was thinking of epoxying it , but it should be covered under warranty , what do you guys think would be better to contact primochill directly or frozen cpu , Ive dealt with frozen cpu before but I would see it taking longer to get back to me ?
Positive thing though when this pump was running , I couldn't here a thing and was on setting 5 with swifttech pump
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k7...c/DSC00010.jpghttp://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k7...eme%20pc/1.jpghttp://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k7...c/IMG00122.jpg
The scratch on the front is a molding imperfection. I just got a new batch of 1000 fronts in from China and even though they swore up and down they had polished it out...its STILL there. Not sure what Brian/Primochill is going to do but I am guessing ship the molds to a new company =( I know it doesn't show when filled but if nothing else I get tired of saying "yes we know it's there, not a problem" lol. (Meaning China not customers as obviously not everyone reads the forums and knows about it.)
As for your crack...no way you should epoxy or try to repair that. Start a RMA ticket and get it swapped out. They are also moving to nylon screws and will be including a metal case length and an acrylic case length that will also work better with those slide in rail type cases.
Short answer, do not repair, just RMA.
Did that one come with the 1/4" thick pump mounting plate or the newer 3/8" version? Curious which shop it came from...also, are you running that with just the one set of rails? I am not sure just one screw per side is really enough and the T3 might want to rotate since it is sort of like being on an axle with just one screw per side.
I can confirm that the crack in the front is not an actual crack.
When the res is filled it really does disappear.
I put a black T3 faceplate on and it is now fully gone.
Just like magic.
For me the molding imperfection was a tiny complaint on an amazing product.
ok boxgods trying for rma called frozen cpu , they said for faster service to call Brian at primochill, so hopefully he can help me out ... luckily i didn't epoxy.... just didn't want my main pc out another 2 weeks it good to hear they're changing out the screws for nylon ones , but I had to use 2 way tape cause of the position of the screws and yea one rail definitely lets it rotate a bit but once i put in the cdroms she locks in , the back piece is the 1/4 but it was pretty sturdy and held my swiftech pump great .... all and all this reservoir was a bit of a problem , but after i heard it running I was amazed at how well it worked , hopefully if I can get a another one Ill have my confidence back in it