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Hi S1mon,try with the following settings for a start:Quote:
Originally Posted by S1mon-
Vcore=1.45V [ lets take CPU instability out of consideration ]
Vfsb=1.30V
Vmch=1.65V [ place a fan over the northbridge if you can ]
Vich=1.05V
HyperPath 3=Disabled
Configure RAM Timings by SPD=Enabled
PCI Express Frequency=105MHz
PCI Freq Lock=33.33MHz
RAM Div=DDR2-620 [ 1:1 ]
And shoot for 310MHz FSB
I was trying to say the current video cards are causing a bottleneck for our CPU speeds thats all.Quote:
Originally Posted by WeldZilla
I have an ATI x1900xtx.
sparx
it took a while fiddling with them but now i love this speed and tbh atm
3000mhz on the Core2 is more than enough :)
when i need to ill get one of the water cooling thingy's :cool:
then ill try 3.6 and such
I will test this out tomorrow night :)Quote:
Originally Posted by BenchZowner
Thanks
Hi, was wondering if any of you guys have mounted watercooling on the P5W DH? If so, what waterblock did you use? I've just installed a 8800GTS, and the back of the card dissipates a lot of heat, and the NB which is right above gets HOT! So I'm thinking of watercooling it, but so far I haven't found a watercooling block thats compatible :(
bumpQuote:
Originally Posted by Timmaah
I´m using this one, wonderful waterblockQuote:
Originally Posted by andrvas
http://www.coolmod.com/tienda/produc...hp?prd_id=2464
Timmah
I'm afraid not matter what you do you won't get it to work at that frequency with a lower voltage. I had a week 24 and it had the same problem.:(
The only solution is to sell it and buy a 'newer' week, or if your very lucky a L6XXB batch CPU. i just got a L630B and it does 3.3Ghz with auto volts (1.208 volts) orthos stable.
I have an "A" E6600 that can almost do that (3.24Ghz with Auto volts) but it won't do a bit more regardless of any volktage increases.Quote:
Originally Posted by EVILCOSMOS
I'm about to try to sell my "A" and try to get a "B", so I would like to know what your "B" CPU can do max Orthos stable with increased voltage?
But... every B is a good overclock candidate?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acidpunk_4
I have my E6600 running 356*9 ~ 3200 on my P5WDH Dlx with Corsair 8500C5 and have no stability issues. Curious about your tests that show ". . . not as fast as the 333."
tia/phogger
rpr
If your A chip can do just over 3.2 on stock volts then thats good :up: and you should probably keep hold of it.
I don't know why it cant go higher without extra volts, have you disabled hyperpath 3 in bios and tried a lower ram setting/higher volts on ram or enabling ram timings by SPD?
psy4fun
I couldn't say if every B chip is a good clocker, on average they seem very slightly better, but the newer A chips are probably just as good. At the end of the day its really down to the luck of the draw if chip you get is a good clocker.
Thought I would post shots of my settings and a cpuz I just submitted so you would know just where I set the "Dials" so to speak. Oh and for what it's worth I am running 2 x 160Wd HDDs in a raid0 array on the Intel ICH7 chip
Now here are my settings this morning.:fact:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../IMG_2973a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../IMG_2972a.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...lla/todays.jpg
I have also disabled all Q-fans and have done pretty much the same things as most other people to help this board along. you will note that My pci Frequency is set at 105. I run it anywhere from 100 to 113 with little or no perceptible difference.
Hope this helps at least some people.
WZ
My E6600 is an : L630A768, I am sure it could do more but the additional heat might cause me extra work! Ok I'm lazy. :toast:
I have read that the cpu's vary within steppings (?) or, that it is hit-or-miss for overclocking ceilings from chip to chip.
sparx
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...x21/3d0512.jpg
WeldZilla-
I am curious about the Turbo Mode. Have you compared benches with it set to Standard?
TIA
sparx
WeldZilla, can you post the temps, please?
Have you tried to run your system on air before?
Quote:
Originally Posted by WeldZilla
I still believeQuote:
Originally Posted by Acidpunk_4
Performance Mode: Standard
PCI Express Frequency: 100
PCI Clock Synchronization Mode: 33.33
Memory Voltage: 2.25V
FSB Termination: 1.4
MCH Chipset Voltage: 1.65V
ICH Chipset Voltage: 1.20V
Works best for PC8500C5/C5D IMO!!
I have not ever booted with memory on anything but turbo. I have not ran an air cooled computer since December of 2001. I have built lots of air-cooled systems for customers but I have never pushed them like I do my own.
It is a very cool morning here this morning so I am running nice and cool at 3825mhz I'll post my idle shot shot.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...lrunning-1.jpg
Depending on the temp outside I will run as low as 16C to as warm as 32C at idle. And from 50C to 60C under load. I get my cooling air from outside in winter and from AC in summer. you see WeldZilla 2 Started out a standard Big enermax case. I cut it apart and welded it back together with my design for the ultimate case. At least for me and my set up. Here are a few shots of how it all works. Don't want to make this a case mod thread but it makes for great cooling system.
This:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/WeldZilla/1.jpg
then This
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/WeldZilla/5.jpg
I used a circular saw with a fiber metal blade
Then this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v253/WeldZilla/20.jpg
Became this:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../IMG_1893a.jpg
With this mounted on it it's back which used to be the right side when it was a standard case.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...a/IMG_1876.jpg
With this hooked to the other end
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2.../IMG_2974a.jpg I have a weather cover for it to keep rain and leves and everything else from getting chewed up and spit into my rad. It blows so hard that the 120mm fan on the bottom of my case is just for show cuz it moves virtually no air. Shut it off and it runs backwards. with this set up if it is freezing ouside the freezing air is passing through my rad and into my case. It keeps everything cold. I have shot my case with a temp gun and seen it register 0 celcius. my mem and northridge are actually cold to the touch. the 80mm fan is just to help direct that wind storm into my mem and NB. I would say it is working quite well. Remember it is all very serious good fun. I just can wait til it gets -10 0r 15C this winter. Hey the fan blows so hard that I had to block off the air holes in the door of the case below the drives cuz it was freezing me out!!
I noticed that shot of my case shows where my 80mm fan used to be. Here is how I have it configured now.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...dZilla/jas.jpg
OK igot some numbers now for memory on turbo and on standard
same settings as post above 425 , 1:1 settings @ 3-3-3-5
Standard
Sanndra
Int buffered 8580 Turbo Int Buffered 8594
Float 8573 Turbo Float 8567
Everest
Read 10,220 Turbo Read 10,247
write 3203 Turbo Write 3239
Latency 40.7 Turbo Latency 40.7
Super pi Turbo Super pi
1M 13.236 s Turbo 1M 13.220
Hey that's it for now a million other things to get done!!
WZ
Umm well i ran a few memory read and write tests and the 333mhz Bus was always faster in every respect i didnt understand why but i think its to do with the fact the number is something easier to divideQuote:
Originally Posted by phogger
though im not sure try testing it urself and see
Weldzilla,
Great post, great job. :toast:
You a little crazier then I am. :D I have to admit I have disassembled a case or two to build up a liquid cool. Lots of rivets to remove and reset, but it all works if you start with a good case.
I have not run a duct outside as yet, might suck in a scorpion or two?
sparx
WeldZilla, excelent result! And very well organized case, I must admit.
As more I read this forum, more I think I need a WC...
Hey sparx that fan will thoroughly chop them up before the get more chopping going through the radiator. We had a small hatch of mosquito eaters and about 10 of them got to close to the intake. When I vacuumed them out they were pretty finely chopped.
psy4fun I think water-cooling is a great all around solution to cooling. you can get some nice clocks and still have your system look like a system. All neat and tidy inside a case. I my 5 years I have had no problems once the system passed the 24 hour test. I had one eheim pump that had a hair-line crack and leaked only a dribble but hey it was a leak. I got a replacement and it is still performing today. My first Swiftech 6002-775 water block leaked
where the bottom was soldered on to the body. Man it was barely a drop every couple hours but that is a killer. So I returned it also now Swiftech was sure it was some weird mistake on my part and got a little indignant then they got the block and sent me another with an apology. So once in the system I have never had a problem. I never run a closed system either so no pressure ever builds in it. Or so no vacuum ever is created from the water getting extremely cold and shrinking down so your system tries to suck air through every connection. Hey if you decide to go the water way I will lend any assistance I can.
WZ
Quote:
Originally Posted by Acidpunk_4
Thanks. It's worth a test, though I hope to go faster. . . .:D
I have to wait for some time to install better air. . .
phogger
Hey all. I have been OC'ed at 3.8GHZ on my e6700 for a while now, and everything was running stable.
All of a sudden the other day my system starts randomly REBOOTING... No BSOD's or anything like that, just BANG and it restarts.
I spent hours checking everything from the ram to the HDD's and cables to see what was up and everything was testing out ok.
I finally found an article on these xtreme forums that details how to remove the heatsyncs on the north and south bridge and use good thermal paste and re-apply the heatsyncs...
THAT was it! My north bridge was overheating and sending my system into CHAOS..
IF YOU OWN A P5W DH, YOU SHOULD DEFINATELY DO THIS.... sorry I dont have the link handy, but I am sure someone here can put it up.
My system is running smoother than ever, and I can prolly OC higher is I wanted to now that thats fixed.
I hope this helps SOMEONE.
LordX
yeah i understand but without redoing the Nb and Sb i cant atm and i need better cooling alsoQuote:
Originally Posted by phogger
but the read and write times and even latency are just quicker at 333 with 1000mhz on the DDR i find
I'm having some strange problems OCing with my P5W DH.
If I overclock at all, even to 300fsb, my windows theme will change to "modified theme" (using the bubbly XP bars) whereas it normally is in windows classic. I change settings back to stock, it works fine.
Why OCing would affect that is beyond me...
Also, this has not happened every time, but any 2d graphics would be corrupt, in that my desktop would have either a blue or green hue. However, running a 3d game was fine and did not have the hue. To fix this I had to reinstall the catalyst drivers, simply going back to stock settings did not fix it.
Bios settings changed:
FSB: 300mhz
Performance Mode: Standard (tried auto too)
PCI-E: 100mhz
PCI: 33.33mhz
Memory Freq: DDR2-800
Hyper path 3: disabled
Here's my setup:
E6400
Radeon X1900 XT 512mb
1gb Mushkin SP2-6400 5-5-5-12
Bios 1602