Quote:
Originally Posted by zsamz_
Yep, I've just been unplugging mine, which usually works, but this time that didn't work either. All I can say is, I must have really scrambled the cmos somehow. Just happy it came back and I didn't have rma or buy a bios chip. Although I should probably pick up a spare bios just in case.
I was using a Thermalright HR-09 U Type 2 MOSFET cooler. It was shortened a bit, and was mounted using small nuts and bolts rather than push pins. I used thermal tape between it and MOSFETs, and the thermal tape was cut to fit in between the raised row of components that is closest to the CPU area. These raised components had Arctic Cooling MX-2 thermal paste on them (the factory puts thermal paste on these as well).Quote:
Originally Posted by rioja
Anyway, what I think happened is that I was a bit overzealous in tightening down the cooler to the motherboard. I got a short across the MOSFETs and the cooler, even though the thermal tape was there. I believe it was because the layer of thermal tape got too thin. Note: There was direct metal to metal contact at the MOSFETs. The only metal/thermal paste/metal contact was in the same area where the factory heatsink had it. Also note, I used insulating washers on both sides of the motherboard, the same way the factory did in other areas.
Shorting out my motherboard was an expensive lesson ($360 CAD plus a lot of time), and for those who are planning on adding aftermarket blocks, I urge caution when tightening mounting hardware.
For me, going with the 60 mm x 25 mm fan over the factory heat sink makes sense. It is keeping my PWM area within 1-2 C of what the NB chipset shows in Smart Guardian, and the NB is a water cooled block (temps right now in Samrt Guardian while Prime 95ing at 3700 MHz for 4.5 hrs are: CPU=48 C, System=37 C, and Chipset=35 C).
If I had something like a MIPS waterblock instead of arrangement I have now, it would look a bit prettier and be a little bit quieter, but based on my NB vs System temps in Smart Guardian, it would only gain me a very small improvement, while adding the risk of another short.
I've got this board on the way right now, should be here on Tuesday. I also placed an order for the Enzotech Mos-C1 sinks. NB and SB are going on water, so I was just curious if these will be enough passive, or if I need to throw a fan on them? I just can't wait to get this board :D
how is this board for a q6600, im about to grab one for myself???? also im going to be using my g.skill 4gb 8000 set, anyone using this set, how is this board overall??
Ok folks, I finally got my rig up and runnin' again... took some time since it's my 1st single stage cooled system, but it runs great now (no leaks so far ^^)
Put my Q6600 straight to 4Ghz using a mere 1,4V and it seems to run out of the box, nearly everything in bios set to auto :D
Cool thing that board can read negative temps in Bios, and it has no qualms about running 4x1Gig either.
I left the stock HS on the SB and put some Alphacool block on the NB I had lying around, works a treat. 39C NB@1,39V currently, PWMs are rather cool too but I guess that's partly because of the subzero cooling.
Will post some pics later this week when I get to clean up this mess... for now, I'm glad to have my mainrig back online.
Hi all I've read this post (and yes its getting long) from start to finish and referenced it a couple of times --> good stuff. Anyway, looking for a 24-7 overclock so I have a Q6600 at 3.6 ghz (using Praz's setup -->thanks btw) and I was wondering about temperatures. I'm using 120 extreme with push/pull 1600 rpm scythe's the northbridge cooler is so close to the 120 I don't use a fan on it. A 60mm blows on the pwm area. Closed case 5 case fans 2 hd 2 optical in a smaller case. Running OCCT 2.0a the system peaks at 68 c on two of the cores the other 2 are consistently 2-3 degrees cooler. cpu temp reads 65 the pwm (system) hits 55c and the northbridge (chipset) hits 45c this is with an ambient temp of about 22c. Idle i'm getting 31 cpu 36 pwm 38 northb. 68 is kinda gettin up there anyone think this is a problem?
p.s. prime 95 runs cooler
new OCCT should use same CPU testing code as P95, AFAIK.
Btw. i got about the same temps, below 70 (68-69) on Q6600 at 3537 with 1.44 Vcore. I try to keep under 70 on the cores.
I got these temps on my core with this bios config:Quote:
Originally Posted by exackery
http://i31.tinypic.com/s1p2fd.pngCode:PC Health Status
Adjust CPU Temp: +9
CPU Feature
- Thermal Management Control: Disabled
- PPM(EIST) Mode: Enabled
- Limit CPUID MaxVal: Disabled
- CIE Function: Auto
- Execute Disable Bit: Enabled
- Virtualization Technology: Enabled
- Core Multi-Processing: Enabled
Exist Setup Shutdown: Mode 2
Shutdown after AC Loss: Disabled
CLOCK VC0 divider: AUTO
CPU Clock Ratio Unlock: Enabled
CPU Clock Ratio: 9x
- Target CPU Clock: 3600
CPU Clock: 400
Boot Up Clock: AUTO
DRAM Speed: Auto (2:3 divider)
- Target DRAM Speed: 1201
PCIE Clock: 100mhz
PCIE Slot Config: 1X 1X
CPU Spread Spectrum: Disabled
PCIE Spread Spectrum: Disabled
SATA Spread Spectrum: Disabled
Voltage Settings
CPU VID Control: 1.28125v
CPU VID Special Add: AUTO
DRAM Voltage Control: 2.150v
SB Core/CPU PLL Voltage: 1.51
NB Core Voltage: 1.504v
CPU VTT Voltage: 1.255v
Vcore Droop Control: Enabled
Clockgen Voltage Control: 3.45v
GTL+ Buffers Strength: Strong
Host Slew Rate: Weak
GTL REF Voltage Control: Enable
x CPU GTL1/3 REF Volt: 88
x CPU GTL 0/2 REF Volt: 88
x North Bridge GTL REF Volt: 96
DRAM Timing
- Enhance Data transmitting: FAST
- Enhance Addressing: FAST
- T2 Dispatch: Enabled
Clock Setting Fine Delay
Ch1 Clock Crossing Setting: More Aggressive
- DIMM 1 Clock fine delay: Current
- DIMM 2 Clock fine delay: Curren
- DIMM 1 Control fine delay: Current
- DIMM 2 Control fine delay: Current
- Ch 1 Command fine delay: Current
Ch2 Clock Crossing Setting: More Aggressive
- DIMM 3 Clock fine delay: Current
- DIMM 4 Clock fine delay: Current
- DIMM 3 Control fine delay: Current
- DIMM 4 Control fine delay: Current
- Ch 2 Command fine delay: Current
Ch1Ch2 CommonClock Setting: More Aggressive
Ch1 RDCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch1 WRCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch1 Command to CS Delay: Auto
Ch2 RDCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch2 WRCAS GNT-Chip Delay: Auto
Ch2 Command to CS Delay: Auto
CAS Latency Time (tCL): 5
RAS# to CAS# Delay (tRCD): 5
RAS# Precharge (tRP): 5
Precharge Delay (tRAS): 15
All Precharge to Act: AUTO
REF to ACT Delay (tRFC): 30
Performance LVL (Read Delay) (tRD): AUTO
Read delay phase adjust: Enter
Ch1 Read delay phase (4~0)
- Channel 1 Phase 0 Pull-In: AUTO
- Channel 1 Phase 1 Pull-In: AUTO
- Channel 1 Phase 2 Pull-In: AUTO
- Channel 1 Phase 3 Pull-In: AUTO
- Channel 1 Phase 4 Pull-In: AUTO
Ch2 Read delay phase (4~0)
- Channel 2 Phase 0 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 1 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 2 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 3 Pull-In: Auto
- Channel 2 Phase 4 Pull-In: Auto
MCH ODT Latency: AUTO
Write to PRE Delay (tWR): AUTO
Rank Write to Read (tWTR): AUTO
ACT to ACT Delay (tRRD): AUTO
Read to Write Delay (tRDWR): AUTO
Ranks Write to Write (tWRWR): AUTO
Ranks Read to Read (tRDRD): AUTO
Ranks Write to Read (tWRRD): AUTO
Read CAS# Precharge (tRTP): AUTO
ALL PRE to Refresh: AUTO
I use 2 CoolJag Everflow 40x20mm (18CFM) with a Zalman Fan Mate 2 to cool PWM, with that setup there is no need to use water on PWM.
One fan is placed on top of the PWM blowing air to it and the other one is installed outside the case attached in the backplate drawing air from the PWM area. I will post pictures If someone ask.
aghkper jan if you liked the dq6 you will know its garbage compared to this boardQuote:
Originally Posted by GAR
i got 2 spare bios chips :D cost me 25$ shipped for 2 chips from usaQuote:
Originally Posted by PhilDoc
shipping is cheaper for americans
the guys ebay is is biosdepot hes ok i've bought from him several times
ok got my e8400 to 4GZ and ran orthos for 2 hrs no problems max temp was 48C
thats +10 of the reported temps just to be sure.
How do you get core temp to report temps on this board ? Locked at 45C
I am using the posted settings by praz and of course its throttled at boot 6x266
under load its 9x445.
I tried turning off throttling and it boots under windows but if you try to run any programs it crashes, then won't reboot.
it gets into windows and runs orthos fine but with no throttling it won't boot into windows at full speed...
bios settings or hw on the line ?
Please do post pics, we like pretty pictures here. :yepp: :p: :up:Quote:
Originally Posted by Jor3lBR
so how are your PWM temp's with this setup and maybe some pics would be great :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Jor3lBR
Quote:
How do you get core temp to report temps on this board ? Locked at 45C
OCCT 2.0A has the four core temps displayed as its running. Kinda nice and I watched the "cpu" temperature beside it on Smart Guardian.
I was reading up on this business last night after posting and this is what I have learned so far--> Smart guradian is watching Tcase (center of the die temp) while OCCT (or core temp) is reporting the T junction (each individual core). Q6600's with go stepping are allowed to reach a Tcore max of 71c. I only 58c running prime 95 but i think i was using the wrong version. Just dlin a new one. I hit 65 (Tcase) running occt @ 99.83 cpu load for 2 hours. Doubt I'll get anywhere near that, even gaming. I should be good.
System Info
zak
Q6600 @ 3.6 ghz (8 x 450)(Praz's setup)
DFI LT X 38
Asus En8800 GT TOP
2 Gig Crucial pc 8500
150 Raptor
200 Storage
Dual DVD
Lianli PC 68 (w/ blowhole & plus conversion)
Corsair 620 psu
Six case fans (120 side/120 top/dual 80 front/80 rear/60 rear)
Corsair memory fan
(You can't see it but my hair is blowing straight back! Yehaaa! lol)
I am having some space issues with my heatsink and the northbridge sink, how much do you think it will hurt the performance of the northbridge sink if I cut off about 1/3 of the cap on the northbridge heatsink in order to get the heatsink to fit the way I need it?
Here is what I am talking about, please excuse my lack of paint skills but this will give you an idea of what I am talking about.
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2005-...eatsinkcut.jpg
it should be fine solong as u dont nick the heat pipe but u might want to swap into the thermalright
Waaaa?!??! :confused: :( :shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by exackery
My comment was honest and no harm or malice intended! I don't think Praz took the wrong way. Praz helps me alot to get things goind on my boards back in DFI forum.
I was saying that yeah he didn't seem to have any issue, and I understand why now he got a great board. I got a Rev.001 board and I never had any issue what so ever with it, with the Rev.000 was bugs after bugs.
So I just think Praz is not posting results with Q6600 because he moved on into 8500's.
If you got any comment of my in wrong way just ignore it never my intention. :yepp:
My temps are way better now man I'm telling ya don't mess with original PWM cooling.Quote:
Originally Posted by Dede99
Bear with me because my X38 is off the case (making space for the X48) so I just took pictures where the fans where be:
pulling hot air out of the case: http://i25.tinypic.com/16kcrb5.jpg
blowing air into pwm area: http://i29.tinypic.com/1z3xqno.jpg
Just connected the wires together and made them go into 3rd fan connector and I regulate speed with Zalman Fan Mate2... Very simple.
I would tost that crap in the garbage and put anything else from Swiftech or Enzotech in the place... The original heat sink doesn't make a perfect contact (unless you got lucky and received a match with the mobo witch was not my case). Just make sure to install and uninstall many times to be sure it's good.Quote:
Originally Posted by zanzabar
Hehe, you guys are cool. So..you get boards like the X38, OC your CPUs to hit 4ghz+ and check how high FSB goes...and once hit some good OC you toss the board and get on with the next generation board like x48? :)
we wont be tossing boards for x48 they are the same thing (maybee for ddr3 we would)
In my case I was payed for that setup (my cousin has it now) and I just brought a new low vid Q6600 and then when I was shopping for another X38 zipppp no more. Thats why I got the X48 (for the same amount or less then my X38 setup)...Quote:
Originally Posted by flexy
They are probably the same with newer revision and as this was my 3rd X38 the higher the revision the better overcloker it would get with less volts and less bugs...
tnx for the pic's Jor3IBR :D I'll try it out this way and report if I'm getting any better stability :)
i just put in the hr-5/ifx got 5c-6c temp drop with intel stock fan
i'm @ 29c on nb now was 35c 2 hours ago with stock heatsink n 80mm fan
i kinda wish i got the sli version cause no way to get my true blowin out the back
its blowin out the top lol
i finally installed heatpipe cooler on pwm properly n only a 1c drop for me i'm @ 33c
do u guys think that this would fit on the mosfets (i know that its for the 780i)
http://www.petrastechshop.com/vi78mohekit.html
http://us.st11.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.c..._1992_71157960
Anyone tried this X38AD314 bios ?? Just noticed it here :shrug:
Any comments on using it ith E8xxx ??