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Quick question...i have some Crucial Ballistix 8500 with a P35-DS3R and in my BIOS i set the vDIMM voltage to +4 to get my from the default 1.8 up to 2.2 for the proper voltage for my RAM. Now everest is reading around 2.08-2.1v.
Think it is just an incorrect reading?
The only way to be sure would be to use a DMM.Quote:
Originally Posted by JS1234
The voltage reading from everest may be the one reported by the sensor, but mobo sensors are genrally no very well calibrated. It may also be the BIOS setting that don't really give you the result it supposed to ...
Have you tried other software like speedfan ?
I just tried Speedfan now that you mentioned it. I could not find any DIMM reading for voltage on the first tab, but under 'Info' i got it to do a test and it said for each slot is 1.8v:shrug:Quote:
Originally Posted by r4st4m4n
The info button on speedfan is reading the default voltage value of a GB board for ram, which is 1.8V. It is not reading any sensor. Make sure you have the latest speedfan, but all software is reading the same motherboard sensor, so it will likely report same value as everest. Like r4st.. said, it is likely either the bios value or mobo sensor is off, or both are inaccurate.
My GB board overvolts I think, I have P35 DQ6. But what I have found better is to treat RAM just like cpu. The least voltage needed for stability. 2.2v is just general guidelines. My crucial Ballistix is stable at 2.11v according to sensor 2.05V according to bios (+.25v), running either 900 at 4,4,4 12 or running at 1066, 5, 5, 5, 15. 2.2V is hard on ram, I killed 2 pair in 8 months (corsair pc 8500 and other) running at 2.2V and no cooling (ram temps were 60-70C at load, though partially secondary to I think GB is overvolting my ram, just got fluke multimeter, supposedly very accurate, so will know more soon). Now I run RAM with 120mm fan over at +.25V, and very stable on memtest and OCT/prime and temps 38-40C at load...and ram seems to be lasting this time.
Point is, I would start at +.3v or even +.25v in bios, and if tests stable, go with it. Though if you plan on pushing 1100 mhz, you might need 2.2v. Just make sure cpu is stable first before testing, so dont get confused about ram stability from unstable cpu.
hello all. this is my first visit here. a friend told me about this site..pretty cool place.
here is my question.
i have the GA-P35-DS3R MOBO.and my CPU is the E8400.i was wondering if anyone else had this combo, and what kinda temps they are getting.
everyone i know with the E8400 has idle temps in the high20's to low 30's(c) my idle temps with this board are in the high 30's to low 40's at idle this is CPU temp not core temp. i my self dont know anyone with the same combo as i have to compare temps with . everyone i know with the E8400 has a different mobo. i know this board requires the F11 bios for that cpu. im just wondering if this board isnt 100% compatible with the E8400.
oh yea. i have had 3 different coolers on the CPU and the same temps on all 3. one of them includes the stock cooler.
thanks for any info and help..
GA-EP35C-DS3R with E8400@3.6GHz, I also get high 30's, low 40's at idle with RealTemp. I switched to an Arctic Cooler Freezer Pro 7 and temps dropped about 3C. Runs stable and no overheating issues. I think you are ok.
the setup you just stated is exactly what i have. i guess 3.6ghz is the sweet spot for this CPU and mobo combo. ive had it up to 3.91 but not stable for long.
here is a shot of everest with my temps as of now. at idle
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...everest-13.png
hope its ok to post pics like this...like i said new here and dont wanna get off on the wrong foot.
i also am running the Arctic cooler freezer pro 7. so id take it your temps under load are in the 63c-67c? ive run Orthos,OCCT,Sandra burnin, Prime95, SuperPi...you name it. and the temps are all the same under load.
another question. on the board there is usb1 and usb2 plugins. has anyone had a issue with useing both? i bought a card reader and am useing the second plugin and sometimes the usb part of the card reader wont work...
Speedfan sometimes labels the voltage wrong. for example on my PC it shows the RAM voltage as Vcore2.Quote:
Originally Posted by JS1234
does speed fan now work with the GA-P35-DS3R???
if so is it a newer version?
@cincyrob,
At IDLE, intel papers, http://arxiv.org/ftp/arxiv/papers/0709/0709.1861.pdf , show that cpu temp (diode between the cores) and core temp (diodes on each core) are the same temperature, and they should be as both are still in die substrate which has a high thermal conductivity ~120W/m*k. I have a GB P35 DQ6...GB does a pretty good job of bios calibration, and your cpu temp may be ballpark accurate...assuming your ambient temp is in normal range of 23-26C (would help if listed). At idle, at your vcore, cpu and core temps should both be about 3-5C above ambient depending on cpu and case cooling.
Everest uses tjmax of 105C, which is 10C too high, so your idle CORE temps should read 43 and 43. At 43C, they are still ~10C too high (should be same as cpu temp, if cpu temp is accurate ie, or both should be 3-5C above ambient), and that is because idle core temps are nonlinear and not calibrated in the idle range.
DTS output is not temperature, output is in UNITS from tjmax. 1 unit = 1C only at high temp range, where intel has calibrated them for their intended purpose of throttling. The formula is: tjmax - DTS (delta to tjmax) = temp C displayed, it is really units, but software call it degrees C, and correct in doing so when temps are in high range.
For example:
At DTS= 0, 1 unit = 1C, linear correlation
so displayed temp is 95C - 0 units = 95C (accurate temp)
At delta to tjmax of 15, 1 unit = 1C, linear correlation
so displayed temp is 95C - 15units = 80C (accurate)
At delta to tjmax of 55, 1 unit = 1.2C, non linear correlation (just assuming 1.2 for sake of illustration)
displayed temp is 95C - 55units = 40C (but this is inaccurate, as no calibration is done by intel in this range.) Your actual temp should have been 95C - 55unitsx1.2 = 29C. Others may be lucky and 1 unit = 1.1C, and get better temps. The decline in linearity is highly variable cpu to cpu.
So for accurate LOAD core temps (assuming your load temp is in accurate range of 60-65C+), use tjmax of 95, which you can use realtemp, or set another program to tjmax 95. You can then either ignore your idle temps, knowing they are not calibrated, or calibrate idle temps using realtemp (will not affect accurate range of temps 65C+) so that at idle, at low vcore like you have, they are displaying 3-5C above ambient, assuming like your cpu temp shows.
btw...my 6 in 1 cardreader with internal USB connection occasionally disappears on hard reboots, and I have to manually unplug and then replug back in.
http://www.jzelectronic.de/jz2/index.php
Has new beta bios for p35-ds4 and others. F13f & F13e, anyone try em out yet??? How them working for ya??
so then the load temps i have are on par for this CPU?Quote:
Originally Posted by rge
i got a realtemp screen shot here. its at Idle right now. and i dont have the AC on in the house and the ambient temp in here right now is 81f. not sure what that is in Celcius.
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...REALTEMP-1.png
i have also backed it down from 4.05ghz this morning . i'm a little worried about the temps at 4.0ghz. to be honest there is really only 2-3c difference from 3.7 to 4.0ghz. i might just have to find me a better cooler.
With realtemp tjmax of 95, your load temps will be accurate. Idle temps are going to read artificially too high as intel did not calibrate DTS in low end. Given your ambients are 27C, 33C for your cpu temp is probably correct. If you want to double check idle, set cpu at 6x300 and 1.1V, and check cpu temp and core temps. Both should read ~3-5C above ambient or ~30-32C. You can calibrate idle error from there of core temp.
Can you post load temps in realtemp with orthos/prime small ffts running, that would be only accurate temp reading, as you would be in range of DTS calibration....unless I missed your load temps.
ill fire up orthos now and post load temps with realtemp
ill let it run a few mins then post temps
here we go. orthos and realtemp
http://i72.photobucket.com/albums/i1...REALTEMP-2.png
You are clearly fine with load temps there, I would ignore the inaccurate idle core temps or calibrate them if you want, or just go by cpu temp for idle instead of core temps, since GB seems to do a reasonable ballpark accuracy for bios calibration.
P35-DQ6
Just received bios F8D,link:
http://rapidshare.com/files/126519299/P35DQ6.rar.html
Realtek 1.97 drivers: http://www.realtek.com.tw/downloads/...&GetDown=false
Flashed to F8D for P35 DQ6 from link above, it is back to the better F7 style, ie they dumped the CTRL F1 requirement and 2 separate OC sections of F8C (thankfully), I am liking it so far. Havent checked for any diff. in OCing yet.
I have an annoying cold boot issue.
When using DRAM divider 2.50 computer will cycle ON/OFF/ON/OFF and I'll have to Clear CMOS or hold INSERT while powering on again.
Don't have this cold boot problem with 2.40 divider.
The other issue is when I change FSB, whatever value, higher or lower, computer will cycle OFF/ON and then quickly turn off.
Started happening after I got a Corsair 650TX PSU.
Current settings: E6750 @8.0x420 1.35V, DRAM @1008MHz 5-5-5-15 2T 2.00V
Raising voltages doesn't change anything.
Seems like a BIOS issue to me, the cycle ON/OFF things usually happens, but with this particular PSU it causes the computer to completely shut down requiring a Clear CMOS or to hold INSERT while powering on again.
Using F7 BIOS.
Using F8C BIOS made cold boot problem appear with any RAM divider different from "AUTO"
PSU works fine in another system. I don't have other Gigabyte Intel/DDR2 board to test.
New Intel Matrix drivers: http://downloadcenter.intel.com/Deta...%2032&lang=eng
Cold boot are parts of the P35 chipset. If it cold boots once only, there is nothing to worry about. My board always cold boot once when I change RAM settings or if I completely cut the power.Quote:
Originally Posted by Krohling
When the cold boot cycle forever, it's more annoying. Are you sure your RAM is stable when you select 2.5 divider ?
Lots of new bioses for gigabyte boards (see Friday 4th July adding): http://www.station-drivers.com/
Yes, I'm 100% sure. Been using 2.50 divider for long time but I had other PSU, and RAM is able to make 1066MHz with only 1.90V, I'm using 2.00V.Quote:
Originally Posted by r4st4m4n
Actual PSU works fine too, only the cold boot with 2.50 divider (and others like 3.00) will cause cycle ON/OFF/ON/OFF. I contacted Gigabyte, and lets see if they can try to help and/or replicate this.
Hi everyone.
Was wondering if someone could help me with something. I have recently upgraded to a E8300 and my P35 - DS3P overclocks it well, but sometimes when I restart the pc, I get the triple on off cycle and when it boots everything is still the way it was, but only the fsb is back to default.
I have heard people saying that gigabyte boards are prone to do this, but it was fixed with a bios update...
Now, what is the bios I need to use for this..?
I am currently using the F10 bios, but I want to know if there is a better beta bios around..?
Thanx
keenan,
P35 - DS3P
F11B