Sorry about the finger, Jin. Nice work; it looks great! I have a nice q6700es looking for a new home. :toast:
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Sorry about the finger, Jin. Nice work; it looks great! I have a nice q6700es looking for a new home. :toast:
Jin your V2000 units are supreme, excellent stuff
Well, I've made another one tonight (and rob, sorry for another day of delay. I finally got my internet back at 3pm or so and it was too late to ship it out it went out around midnight when I was trying to print label) I am printing label right now so there shouldn't be any issues. -_-; I found out how useless I could become without internet today. (I telecomute for my primary job, all my contacts, etc are in there too... it's worse than losing phone really as it also include phone I use).
Anyways, here is build process of v2000 unit. This time, I will show you just part making and brazing to leak testing stage. Evap usually are pre brazed and go through 3-4 days of leak testing to begin with.
Once this phase is done with, I triple evac the system with nitrogen gas. First one for down to 70 micron on low side, 2nd one down to 60 micron on low side first than both high and low side, 3rd one down to below 40 micron (usually about 4-8 hours on brand new system... previously charged one can go 4th cycle or could be vacuuming for over half a day) first low than both high and low side. I use 4 valve manifold to make sure I don't introduce any air in between triple evac by filling nitrogen from high side when it's evac'ed.
After that is the charge and load testing... than assembling it in case and wiring. I will show pictures of that as well when time comes for that. (probably sooner than later since jimmyz's machine is triple evacing right now)
Anyways here we go.
First of all, we must lap the evap. This evap was brazed on Thursday and leak tested till today.
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9240.JPG
It is lapped on from 100 grit -> 200 -> 500 -> 1000 -> 1200 than midly polished.
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9243.JPG
End result. They tend to lose this much shining factor over time with load testing, mounting, etc :P
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9246.JPG
Brazing up the suction line to the evap. As usual, tight fit and cleaness is must. once done I clean it up with warm watered terry towel and than proceed to take out any residue of flux which isn't good for flexline.
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9247.JPG
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9250.JPG
Evap set with cap tube wrapped at correct places for v2000 installation and ready to be brzed in.
First laying out the parts and setting up the copper tubing. I do this before any components which are pressurerized open.
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9253.JPG
Than it is lay out plan... which i have done so for v2000 unit.
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9256.JPG
Brazed :) Purging than closing with cap at low pressure is what I like to do :)
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9258.JPG
Time to start leak testing ;)
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9261
Jin you should have called me, if you got any other work of that sort gimme a call.
or gimme a call anyway, I know you busy so didn't want to bother you the last few weeks.
Pics dont work for me
fine here w/ie7
need to stop looking at this thread, makes me wanna order another one in a LianLi cube...
Hey Jin,
Glad to see your work quality is still top notch and your value for service is still high. I hope everyone is enjoying their units!
I got few updates in sleeve coming in before christmas time (crossing fingers) to make you feel even ithcier VulgarHandle ;)
Thanks for the great comment guys. And Ken and Steve, we need to meet up and have BBQ party or something :)
Wow Jin I didnt even know you did this sort of work, verry nice indeed..
Ill come to the barby too, ill bring the KNIVES, and we can duke it out in the backyard :P
Verry nice work bro, keep these beauties coming off the assembly line, truely impressive work going on over there playah :)
Very nice units, sent a PM to you to get more info.
Well here is worklog picture series #2,...
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9263.JPG
Placing probes. The brown is K-type thermocouple, and the black is the froster probe. Can't get much closer to evap head unfortunately as the mounting kit migth make the probe when applied.
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9264.JPG
Sleeved and ready for charge and fun.
Now traveling back from beginning of projects such as this.
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9267.JPG
Prepping for cap tubing. I use 3/16 tubing brazed with schraeder to use it for purging and leak testing. I just keep cutting it by inch when I have to work on new one. And when it gets too short, just braze new length in.
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9270.JPG
Cleaned evap... it must be clean to braze without an issue.
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9277.JPG
Just brazed evap. it need to be cleaned off after.
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9279.JPG
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_9280.JPG
Time to triple evac, I use this in conjunction when i have to keep evacing sysstem as they are made. The maximus is the 1st and 2nd stage while robinaire is 3rd stage.
http://www.vapoli.com/images/Forum/IMG_2982.JPG
Prepping condenser fan. I use rubber gasket to absorb additiona vibraito.
It's time to charge the gas up and load test!!! to be continued... :)
I have seen people use camping stoves to heat up the evap faster and not empty your ace/oxe bottles so quickly. But I donīt see you using a stove?
When I used Oxy-Acetylene they just got insanely hot...I doubt additional heat would be needed, even for a solid evap!
Very nice work Jin:D!
brett:
thrue. you don't need additional heat when you use acetylene/oxygen. you may need a little bit larger mouthpiece (correct word?). I normally use a 150L mouthpiece when brazing. I would recommend a 200 or 300 if you soldering a evap, just to get the additional heat that can be nessesary.
I don't use those "shower head mouthpiece". I can't recommend what size of mouthpiece you should have if you wan't to use one of those, but proberbly one of the bigger like 800L
Heh, the reason evap is suspended is to reduce heat dissipation through bottom touching some metal. This way evap will heat up about twice faster. Total time it takes to braze a prepped evap is well under 5 minutes this way. Using #2 tips for regular torch or #4 tips of harris mini-torch. Yup I have 2 torch sets and 3 tanks of each gas so that I never run out. It always seems to run out saturday night when I keep on making sutff and I really don't like the idea of idling whole day when there are job to be done.
I see... clever :)
Thanks for the info.
Jin I don't like that pic of red bench with high pressure tank and regulator on it not looking chained or secured to something.
I either use those nylon tie down straps to strap to solid object but I mostly buy 20.00 to 30.00 dollar dollies to strap tanks too. That way you can move them around with no fear of pulling one over.
I just seen on "myth busters" test whether is was a myth or truth if a tank got the valve knocked off it will go right thru a Block wall.
They built a test wall in a old military bunker and the tank passed completely thru the block wall and put quite a mark in a solid concrete wall.
"MYTH CONFIRMED" cylinder will penetrate block wall, Hope you catch the re-run.
wdrzal:
today you can buy hoods for your gas tanks whith the regulator inside the hood. which makes them lot's more secure. as secure you can drop them from 5th floor without problems. Dad was at work when they dropped a whole bunch of gas tanks from a crane at the harbor, no damage to the bottles 'cause the hoods was mounted, offcourse the bottles was full of gas.
I have use those hoods with intergrated regulator my self at work, there they got air liquide, those works fine. but I don't own any of those my self. I have aga and mine is standing on orginal AGA vehicle (wrong word?).
I would say it's crazy to have gas tanks staing on thier own with removed coverhood and regulators mounted on.
with hoods mounted there is no problems to have them staying but I wouldn't use them staying free 'cause it can be a lot damage if one bottle went down to the floor. burning your self, your mates in the workshop and the whole workshop can burn down if you have bad luck. there is reason why they use vehicle and chain gas bottles.
I would be interested in finding more about this hood. Airliquid carreis them and what would be the model number? Would you happen to have the picture of such? At times, it is incovenient to move things on roller I have and something like hood would be most excellent option.
jinu117:
the solution is called Altop. Not sure what size of bottles those hoods are avaible on but I have seen those on o50 and a42 bottles. proberbly those are avalible on smaller bottles too.
I don't have any high resolution but I googled and found those pictures:
http://www.airliquide.com/image/stdp...s/altop_01.jpg
http://www.interempresas.net/FotosAr...ctos/P8831.jpg
the red arm on the first picture is the valve arm to open/close bottle, instead of this:
http://www.reklamballonger.se/images...era-ventil.gif
you get a regular hand adjustable screw for the out-pressure.
I also know AGA have a simular solution called nemo, but this have I never use by my self.
http://www.aga.se/International/Web/...$file/nemo.gif
hope this helps a little.
That looks awesome!!! Thanks a million Tim!
Everyones pictures work but yours Jinu still :(
Could you switch to imageshack?
Hmm I don't remember IP banning you to my site? :P I can send some your way on msn when we get time together.Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337
All the pics work fine here :)Quote:
Originally Posted by n00b 0f l337