Or you could do that :), but you did that where your CPU has no IHS? I didn't even try that (stupid me).Quote:
Originally Posted by s7e9h3n
Printable View
Or you could do that :), but you did that where your CPU has no IHS? I didn't even try that (stupid me).Quote:
Originally Posted by s7e9h3n
It's the FX56 (the one in my sig) - pictured in the middle ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
http://img435.imageshack.us/img435/7261/trio6mn.jpg
i was under the impression that the temp sensor for the cpu was inside the cpu, so any change in temperature would be a direct result of more heat from the cpu?Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
there's a thermal resistor in the cpu who's resistance is converted into a temperature by a sensor chip on the mobo, if my understanding is correct ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by aiya_au
Yes you are - ITE IT8712F-A handles all the temperature monitoring on the boards ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by ozzimark
^^^ sorry for the OT... I recieved the CPU safe and fine today. :)
-Edit..
And back on topic, I did the same when I was mounting my storm on my old naked 3700+, but alas mine had idiot pads, so I couldnt really screw anything up, When the new cpu I didnt even bother putting the troublesome lotes bracket (The one with the lugs for stock hsf..) because it isnt really needed.
Good to hear....make sure to keep me up to date on how it does. ;) Drop me a PM if you have any further questions.....Quote:
Originally Posted by JasonDTM
Where is the black gooey stuff on the other edges of the CPU? Did you get it off somehow? Mine has the black glue as a square around the die... not that it affects anything, but just wondering where yours went... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by s7e9h3n
I cleaned my cpu :D I thought it was ugly so I used a bit of NAPTHA and a q-tip to take if off.....Quote:
Originally Posted by g0dM@n
Well, how about that? I think I now understand why OPB prefers his Rev. AD0 over his Expert. I finally got a chance to mount up the AD0 on the autocascade last night. A few hours tweaking the board bested my few weeks worth of work with the Expert on Spi1m. I have a feeling a better insulation job helped matters, but regardless, I was able to run at a higher frequency and netted a better time using LESS VOLTAGE with my Ultra-D:
Here's my best 1m with my Expert:
http://www.cryo-laboratory.com/uploa...h3n/14x265.jpg
And here's the Ultra-D:
http://www.cryo-laboratory.com/uploa...7/14x2681m.jpg
Good stuff s7e9h3n, AD0 Ultra-D looking really strong. :thumbsup:
Stephen, since i'm too lazy to read through all the posts...can you confirm that it is in fact a better clocker...and that these simple changes are now supplying a better/cleaner power almost?
And, are all the boards that people purchasing now, getting a Rev. AD0? or is it something different? And...one more thing...is the SLI mod, still do-able with these new revisions?
It seems from the last post that it clocks better. Other than Stephen and opb, i don't think anyone has spoken out.. Oh yes, one guy said that he had a LOT of boards in his hands and at som point they got better. It was this layout.
No one has really measured anything, at least not scoped.
Most Ultra-d's should be AD0.
SLI-mod is doable with all DFI boards.
A mobo (or any hardware for that matter) is only as capable as the person's hands it's in ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Reinvented
In terms of better/cleaner power - I will say this: The board doesn't allow me to boot quite as high a Vcore as I'm able to on the Expert. I'd say a good .02V difference between them.....
Steven, don't you have an alternative vtt mod than what's public?
THis board isn't modded ;) In fact, I hadn't needed the mod on my last 5 or so DFI's......Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr. Tinker
hmm... I thought vtt tracks pretty poorly. EMC2 hasn't been around to finish off his vtt mod thingy. I read that you and Tony had an alternative vtt mod that was under NDA somehow.
well i've got an AD0, lots of bh-5 and i think the vtt may still be an issue cause my bh-5 sucks on this mobo. (2x256 is cool but 2x512 or 4x256single sided is forced to use 2T for s'pi)
i can barely hit 225fsb with 1T timings on the shipping 623 bios. while i'm used to the ram going well over 250 on anything else. (i tried all drive strenght too)
should i just flash this thing to tony's 702 bios or what?
i'm avoiding flashing till an expert ;) on this mobo/ram combo thinks its worth it.
i hesitate cause i once flashed a mobo and it never posted again.
my 3700+ kab3e has already 1M'd at over 3ghs using stock past and 'sink but with a fast 80mm fan.
i would love to get this running properly so if someone has some good words for me please speak up.
I don't know if anybody's aware of this, but ALL BIOSES ARE BASICALLY THE SAME THING only in different packaging/default settings. Albeit, some options are enbled in certain bioses which aren't enabled in others, but when it comes down to basic memory settings/timings, you really should get to know ALL the settings. Once you do, it's possible to use ANY bios for WHATEVER ram you choose (as long as that bios has all the necessary options enabled for you). For example, bios 510-1, 510-2, and bios 510-3 are the exact same bios. The only difference is what the ram response time defaults to. 510-3 has a table which is better suited for TCCD, while 510-2 was set for LL/BH type memory/ 510-1 is somewhere in between. If one knew their memory timings well, they could use any of the bioses and have them perform equally. The bios itself on the most part does not help performance, it's all up to the user ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by flytek
thanks. i pretty much new that and have a64tweaker'd my bh-5 before proper testing. (to the bench settings you and the other pro's use)
so that means the vtt is the damn issue and only EMC2 has a proper solution to my problem.
unless you know something we don't.
i'm starting to feel i need to learn enough about circuits so i can construct a vtt bypass circiut to fix this dfi engineering foulup
anyway i'm getting rid of this board tommorrow and i might just wait for a yonah board before trying to put together a half decent rig again. or maybe an expert has better vtt.
thanks for taking the time :)
http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b242/flytek/27.jpg
Oh, one last thing I forgot to add.....I talked to OPB last night and he verified this - The rev. AD0 ultra-d is somehow able run the cpu @ a cooler temp than older revisions and even the expert. I say it's just a borked sensor, but he insists that the temps are for real. Here's what I booted at on my board:
http://img392.imageshack.us/img392/6553/455pb.jpg
Have you taken vtt measurements on the board? Test the voltages @ idle and load and report back if you can.....Quote:
Originally Posted by flytek
Last thing....I promise....For those of you who are looking for Tweaker settings, I DEFINATELY SUGGEST NOT TO USE A TREF OF 200, 7.8u. I think I just set the WR for the slowest time ever @ 3.7Ghz..lol:
http://www.cryo-laboratory.com/uploa...3n/3700sux.jpg
hehe... I was wondering about that also... but I can see faint "swab" marks on the top edge, so I figured you had used some sort of safe solvent (say that 10 times fast! some sort of safe solvent ...lol) to wipe it off... good times, y0. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by s7e9h3n
wow thats awsome, we shoudl have a competition for the slowest times at the highest clocks :DQuote:
Originally Posted by s7e9h3n