ok, thx :)
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ok, thx :)
I wanted to let everyone know not to do this mod w/NF7-S 2.0 and 2500 Barton after cutting the 3rd L12 bridge my pc would not boot only after reconecting the bridge did I boot up agian.
I was giving this mod a try because my mem bandwidth just plain sux's for the FSB I am running
to change a 133 to 166 fsb cpu all u need to do is pull FSB Sense 1 to low...
page 77 athlon XP model 8 data sheet
u should be able to do this mod on the cpu / socket .... just connect the AH30 pin to a nearby ground... AH28 would be a good choice
@Ragnarok:
Can u post a picture of this mod please ?
(my new 1700 has got the new layout)
greetz
Ok I want to make sure I am doing this right. I have a Barton 2500+ and a NF7S v1.2 board and hitting the wall at 197. What I want to do is make a horizontal cut between the contacts on the third row ( from left to right) on the L12 contacts. If I do something wrong or if it doesn't work, how do I reattach the contacts?
Thnx in advance
Brian, look at the image of the L12 bridges at the bottom of the post of Praetero, the guy who started this thread. That's the one you want.
But, after very much thread scanning, I would have to say that the reported success of this mod working on a Barton is basically zero. I would like the in-socket wire jumper equivalent to cutting the 3rd L12 if it exists which I'm not sure it does, so I may try this without modifying the chip.
And if anybody tries closing all L12's(200fsb), do report the results.
:comp10:
I didn't see where anybody actually tried this on a different chipset like the KT400 for instance thought the question has been asked. I have a feeling this may work on them as well. I may try it just to see. Can't be certain and it may be specific to the Nforce2, but that little voice is telling me no. I'm stuck at 180 I wonder if this may help?
>>>--Tiribulus-->:D
This may have been asked and answered deep within this post somewhere, but if you get a NF7-S Rev2.0 do you still need to cut the CPU bridge?? Or has a newere bios version fixed this also or both??
THanks
Lvcoyote
The answer may be on this page, look at cowpuppy's post. :)
It also works on Bartons, My bro was stuck at 225 on a rev1.2 and I finally conned him into cutting the L12 and hes doing 235 no probs.
As for the rev2.0's I was doing 235 FSB solid with a 2500+ w/o cutting the bridge so Im saying the rev2's are good to go outta the box. :)
Just another reason for me to go ahed and get the damn board......LOL!
Thanks for the replies guys!
Lvcoyote
I've had both. Running an Antec 550W TruePower (found this worked well with the 8rda+ as it doesn't use the ATX12V2 connector).Quote:
Originally posted by Svenn
Hate to Hijack the thread, but I'm looking at getting an NF7-S and I've got a question or two. First, has anyone tried both NF7-S and 8RDA+ and have any opinions either way? Second, as far as volt mods, the vcore I hear is easy but the vmem is hard. Anyone have links to either? Thanks and sorry again. Btw, great work Praetereo!
The 8rda+ v1.1 is not guaranteed to do 200fsb. The later NB had the A1 stepping, mine had the older A2 stepping. I used the same Barton 2500+ and PC3500 I have now in it and with a soldered vmod got to 215x11 at 2.025Vcore, 1.85Vdd and 2.90Vdimm. Before the vmod it would only do about 185fsb (old NB).
With watercooling I hit the overcurrent protection issue. Basically the Barton draws enough current at high fsb & multi to trip the current overload protection. There is a mod and it did work but at over 100 watts of thermal output the waterchill had problems.
I could, in winter, run at 215x11 2.025Vcore with an SLK900U and a Papst 80mm 40cfm fan.
8rda+ with waterchill taken on fitting.
http://www.adrenalin-junkie.net/pics...erchill002.jpg
The NF7-S v2.0 replaced the 8rda+. It's currently running 2xWD Raptors in RAID0 too. I'm currently running at 200x11 at 1.775Vcore as it's summer and the UK has a nice heatwave atm (37degC forcast tomorrow - hottest on record).
The NF7-Sv2.0 is guaranteed to do 200. It does easily and at lower power settings. I've had the NF7-S at 215x11, 220x11 too. A friend with vapo can get 230 but his NB isn't WC'd so it's not stable at that speed.
The NF7-S as it is now with waterchill:
http://www.adrenalin-junkie.net/pics/mods/DSCN0152.JPG
With the NF7-S I have only lapped the northbridge chip - I'm not worried about vmodding it yet. The guy with the vapo has pencil modded to 1.8Vdd - easy but the longer term solution is getting the soldering iron out.
So which out of the two? Well I have a soft spot for the poor old 8rda+ because of the amount of grief it's put up with - vmod, overcurrent mod, northbridge replacement, southbridge, mosfet heatsinks, even attempting to run the barton at 215x11 2.025Vcore and forgetting to plug in the HS fan (auto shutdown and the Barton is the same Barton I'm using right now).
However it's to choose between the two - it's the NF7-Sv2.0.
The new NB bridge, SATA RAID0 reduces the disk bottleneck.
unfortunately with your dragon lite you have a 1/4 pci dividerQuote:
Originally posted by Scottsman
This is my first post here so I'll try not to sound too stupid. I have an Athlon XP 2000+ (Palomino)
Soyo Dragon Lite KT333 MB
512 PC2700 Ram.
Whenever I overclock FSB above 142 I get blue screens and corrupt file mssgs. I tried upping vcore and locking dram at 133.
My CPU came with multiplier already unlocked and its set at 14X
Is this procedure possible and/or recommended for my system?
Thanks in advance
so 140 is about it as far as oc will go.i know its a little late,but
hope it helps.
Welcome to Xtreme Scottsman and wolverine! :D
:toast:
....i didnt have time to really figure out why, i had to go to the hospital and get 11 stitches on the area between my thumb and index finger...Hobby knifes are sharp...imagine that
Lol good thing you only did that. You cudda lorenasized urself.......... :D
It also looks like the 133 default is magic. Ive been trying to set my tbird to 133 default from its 100 to see just how high I can go on FSB. As it is, the same problem occurs as not going very high and this may be the answer. So....................... :D
I'm thoroughly confused. With the rev. 2 NF7-S, is it recommended that you cut the third L12 bridge of any 333MHz FSB chip for higher FSB? What about the reverse, connecting it on a 133MHz FSB chip? Would that result in a higher FSB overclock?
~THT
It also works on Bartons, My bro was stuck at 225 on a rev1.2 and I finally conned him into cutting the L12 and hes doing 235 no probs.
Actually I thought this was in reference to the older chipset revisions 1 and 1.2 where rev2 doesnt seem to be the same results........ :D
Hmm bit late to reply, but i find a scalpel a real handy tool when having to cut bridges :)Quote:
Originally posted by ]JR[
EDIT : cutting bridges with a scapel must be nearly impossible, remember the dremel incedents when trying to unlock xp2100s.
HI all, finally got round to reg.
A friend and myself have desided to build new machines, for extreme overclocking, we did our research, came up with the NF7-S as the best board for the job, the best cpu being the 2500+ Barton, people have had it clocked past the 3200+ mark. we are both putting in a waterchilled cooling system, the first prob my m8 had his name is Shim, was; he booted the machine up, with out the waterchill setup, as it is still to arrive from denmark, and it booted fine, he went into the bios, and to look at the setup and save it, the system restarted, and amessage flashed up, without looking he turn the machine off, and hasn't been able to boot since, has any one any ideas, try all the troubleshooting stuff at the back, tried diffeent ram and cpu still the same prob, has he damaged the mobo.
our specs are as follows
Skims: Anteck Piano Black case, NF7-s Mobo, 2500+ barton, Geforce4 4600, aero7 cooler (untill the waterchill arrives) 512 PC3200 DDR unbranded. 36Gb raptor sata
Mine: Acrylic DIY transperent case Blue tint, NF7-s 2500+ barton, gf4 4600, Zelmane Flower Cooler (untill the waterchill arrives) 36gb raptor sata, 120gb barracuda sata, 512 pc2700 DDR (untill the OCZ 3200 dual 1Gb arrives). mine boots fine! but i waited till the message dissapeard, which said DO NOT TURN OFF.
thanks for your help
silentrunner: When you shut down the system while it's flashing the bios, the bios chip probably won't work anymore. All you have to do is:
-Take his bios chip out
-Start your system into the bios flash menu
-Get your chip out, put his in
-flash the bios
After you've done this, his chip should work back and his system should boot.
Try clearing your CMOS jumpers before you hotflash the bios as above post suggests. The NF7 displays a do not turn off message after you change bios settings. Clearing the CMOS might be all that is needed.
Lol, didn't even thought about it :)Quote:
Originally posted by TheDude
Try clearing your CMOS jumpers before you hotflash the bios as above post suggests. The NF7 displays a do not turn off message after you change bios settings. Clearing the CMOS might be all that is needed.
offtopic: @theDude: some months ago you were planning to make a direct die wc. How did it end up? :)
thanks for the reply, try that with no joy, well what i did was, first went in to the cmos, and replaced chips and went to save the ssytem would reboot, put my chip back in and the system booted, next tried flashing the bios from floppy, latest version, to no avail, my chip wont allow skims machine to boot ether
any ideas
dont need to worry, redid the hot bios reflash and the system is now working, thanks to all, will keep you all posted when the waterchill goes online, by the way the first thing i did was clear cmos, thanks again for the help