How about some pics for a change? ;)
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How about some pics for a change? ;)
Allright :DQuote:
Originally Posted by tinker77
Im going to start the gallery
Going to Instal Photoshop CS on my new PC so I can start editing my images if they look bad.
ur temps are pretty normal from what i can see. u cant exactly trust the cpu for good temps (i tested my 3000 winnie and it was reporting temps 25C above what they should be)
Turok, if you wanna lower your temps, I'd honestly reccomend getting another 50z to run in series. With a monster core outside the case, that much tubing and tdx, you could use the extra pumping power.
Btw, I told you to trust me on the mouse and surface, aren't ya glad you did? There is no better combo than the MX518 and a large smooth gaming pad. Max hates hard pads and other mice suck. :P
I'm upgrading from my MX510 soon cause I've had it for awhile. Gonna get the MX518 and the SteelPad QCT+.
Yep, verry nice "indeed" :DQuote:
Originally Posted by EnJoY
Im done resizing all my images to small GIF images. The total is 47 images. Im going to group each category of images as one larger image so I dont have to link 47 images from Imageshack :P
The images are kinda small, so some details cant be seen. If anyone wants a more detailed image of a certain pick, I can give a "less smaller" resize of the original.
Ill be done tommorow (May 26, 2005) with the gallery and then ill post it in another thread and link this thread to the gallery
About the pump, I want to be able to fit the pump in the space where 3x 3.5" slots go on my lian-li PC-65.
I may think about changeing my pump or updating to dual when I get my GPU waterblock.
Whats better? A dual AX 50z or a high peformance Iwaki pump? Also, which solution heats the water the most?
Right now, since this is my first WC solution, I want to get a bit of practice with what I have now :)
BTW, I switched the monster core's position (as I said before). It was horizontally standing up with the tubes on the right side, and now its standing up vertically with the tubes on the top. I noticed bubbles releasing from the core, so it still has some empty spots. If I leave the core in different positions, will it release all the air inside and probably increase peformance?
Turok
Ok guys, my gallery is done
Check it out :rocker:
http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/...473#post882473
Iwaki MD20RZT will give overall better performan than two 50z's at 12v's. However, if you can feed the 50z's 13.8volts they will slightly outperform the iwaki. Dual 50z's will give very close to the same heat dump as an Iwaki MD20, about 5watts less if that, but the Iwaki obviously is a bit more powerful as I said and it's also less hassle than hooking up too pumps.
Hmmmmmm... All I can think of is the future. What will I upgrade next? :D
I was thinking about the GPU block upgrade, and would it be a good Idea to upgrade to a pertlier solutioninstead of just a GPU block?
Since I aleady have the TDX block for my CPU, can I just put a sheet of pertlier and put it directly in between the block and the CPU or do I need a copper sheet of some mm thick between the pertlier and the CPU?
What would be the conditions besides having a external power sorce?
I understand I have to have insolation and all that stuff, but I would like more details about that
If I can, I would go from my first WC solution to my first T.E.C. solution in a snap :D
What is your CPU temp Turok ?
At first I was planning on going regular water cooling, I even bought a TDX and Fusion HL, but then I saw how much lower temps were with TEC's, I decided to sell those blocks and go straight to TEC's.Quote:
Originally Posted by Turok
No, you can't just put a Pelt on your TDX. First of all, it wouldn't perform well at all, the TDX isn't optimized for cooling a pelt, its optimized for cooling a CPU. Second, putting a Pelt straight on a CPU would probably kill it or at least crash the computer. The temp of the pelt constantly changes, sometimes by large amounts, and having a copper cold plate between the CPU and pelt creates a buffer zone. All of these temperature changes won't be transferred directly to the CPU.
I see...Quote:
Originally Posted by HiJon89
My temps are 31-33 C Idle and 38 C Load.
This is only cooling the CPU
I got a quick question about the Creative EAX sound settings on my Audigy 2 ZS.
When im playing Halo for PC, and Im constantly shooting with the Ghost (the small hover craft) I get these click sounds.
I dont know if thats part of the effect or if they are pops caused by sound effects.
I have the sound filter on. Ive noticed when Im listening to music wile I set up the filter, I loose sound quality.
I have the sound filter on and the clock filter to the max but I still hear that clocking sound when I shoot.
Im guessing its part of the sound effect
I would like to know if the EAX sound filter is worth it wile Im playing games since some games use high quality sound that may not have deffects on them.
Turok
I dont know if this is worth mentioning but i know alot of ppl who had sound issues with halo for PC including myself. and this was with a range of cards. the game is just buggy.
I have a question
I usually have the UV light on, and I have one of the two on the side pannel next to the exaust fan on the back of my case. Because of this, I can see it wenever Im sitting in my desk.
My question is, is it harmfull to have the UV light on, or are these PC lights too weak to cause any harm?
My light set is a Vantec Dual CC UV lights 12"
harmfull to what?
Harmful to humans. UV=Radiation
Depends on how strong the UV rays are, I am no expert however.
Yan
Skin cancer, skin damage, eyes damage, premature ageing, etc.Quote:
Originally Posted by STEvil
Found these problems by googling about UV light risk.
I dont know much how UV lights really work, so I dont know if its another type or another strength of UV that causes these problems.
Someone who knows, please help
uv rays in large amounts cause cancer... but these little uv lights i have no idea about. might contact the manufacture and ask them if long term close exposure is harmful in anyway.
http://www.who.int/uv/en/
Bolded the important part. Look up the specs on your UV light.. then look up what is considered a "healthy" amount and what amount is considered bad. Probably want to take the numbers given with a grain of salt.Quote:
Ultraviolet (UV) radiation is part of the electromagnetic spectrum emitted by the sun. Whereas UVC rays (wavelengths of 100-280 nm) are absorbed by the atmospheric ozone, most radiation in the UVA range (315-400 nm) and about 10 % of the UVB rays (280-315 nm) reach the Earth’s surface. Both UVA and UVB are of major importance to human health.
Small amounts of UV are essential for the production of vitamin D in people, yet overexposure may result in acute and chronic health effects on the skin, eye and immune system.
Thanks STEvilQuote:
Originally Posted by STEvil
These are my UV CC specs:
Output Voltage: 0V~580V
Output Current: 5.00 + 0.03 mA
Optimal Wattage: Up to 2.9 Watts
Outline Dimension: 323 mm
Luminance: 5800 nit
Life: 15000 hours
Specs dont say the range of absorption.
Could be enough to just use LEDs as a reference
Well, I am sure that having it too visible to your eyess can't be too good...
Yan
I cant find any info on recommended maximum or minimum exposure values.. but i'd assume to be saleable that your light is within some sort of guideline..
Flourescent lights among other things emit UV radiation..
Thats why I never use CRT's... They put out a massive amount of radiation.
Yan
i'm being bathed by a 22" sony tube.. i'm fine (mostly)
;) :D