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I looked on pro cooling and couldnt seem to find the information. Its possible I was mistaken, but I recal hearing about some failures at 13.8 volts. Either way I make no mention of overvolting the DDC in the main guide, so no worries there.
One last thing. Overvolting the 50Z past 13.8volts has been known to make the impeller seperate from the impeller shaft due to the increased torque placed on it. I'm sure you aware of this as you are a pro cooilng member.
FUD?
A god friend of mine has been running two DDC's in parallel at 13.8 volts for 6 months now with out a issue. I can't seem to find any issues on the net (google). Some one should email Laing about max voltage operation. They are really good about answering emails too.
I've done alot of pump research before buying.... I always do. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by MaxxxRacer
(I hate gettn ripped-off or buying a sub-par unit)
Reading of the "known" issue threw me for a loop. I still don't recall those failures tho. or the users involved.
Yes, I remember Cathar mentioning that about the MCP600/50Z.
FUD= Fear, Uncertainty, Doubt (spread of false info) :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Cathar
I highly doubt that any of this info is false.
How do you overvolt a Z50? I'd guess that you use another PSU. But like what kind? I know of the Meanwell series, but how does those work?
that is the quote i was refering to about the mcp600...
to overvolt it you can buy a 12volt to 13.8volt setup up transformer, or a meanwell. i have no idea where in the world to get the step up transformer. i think cathar knows. you can send him a pm over at pro cooling. he is a member here but he doesnt come around much.
That's what I'm saying, I don't think you've read anything yourself about these DDC overvoltage deaths have you? you've got an opinion about something that we haven't seen ourselves, which may or may not be real.Quote:
Originally Posted by shadowing
This is supposed to work well for one 50Z and cheap!
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=129-068
wang thanks for that 13.8dc converter. ppl always ask me but i can never find one for cheap... ill have to use that link from now on.
Np, I always love a good deal myself!
I still use my original RLQO as my main H2O pump due to its insane performance in a reasonably sized pump (just a bit larger than a mag3). They produce seriously mean flow and head while being dead silent. Pentair Aquatics really blows for changing the design.Quote:
Originally Posted by arDAWG65
why not add dual monster cores arDAWG? lol - you have the room available in that massive SUN Mass Storage Unit we used for your external box and the RLQO will push water through 2 of them with no probs (just tested that). Without the water cooling gear being in there, I can crawl inside that case and almost stand upright. we need to get the waterchiller mounted in there as well. :)
I want one of those pumps. How can you tell the diff between the new and old RLQO pumps? Btw Weapon, APC - Pet is one of my favorite songs.
How much dump you think this 4000HH has. It looks like it would kick azz.
I like the idea of 2 quiet one 3000s in series. Dump might be two high though. Here is the P-Q
http://www.pentairaquatics.com/produ...00_flow_ft.jpg
40w a piece.
any of the ones with names like 3000, 4000, etc. are the new designs from Pentair Aquatics.
the new PA design looks like this:
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/produc...=6&pCatId=9849
Pentair claims that the closest to the original design is the 4000HH but it uses a lot more power to get the same results (and likely has a lot more heat dump)
*goes digging through image folders*
pic of one of the original RLQO pumps attached. That was before I found the new fittings that are now on it so it is a bit more compact in length and height now as no adapters are used - overall, it is just a bit larger than a mag3. The white rear section of the RLQO is a Grundfos motor - which is entirely metal...they are heavy duty.
where to get them? tough questions - Rainbow was bought out by pentair more than a year ago and they changed the design immediately. There were a few left in aquatics shops for a while but they have all pretty much vanished.
Would you think the heat dump to be around 50% of what the pump consumes. Cause then for two 3000 you would be talking about 40w heat dump. I think my rad can handle that. What do you think?
http://www.frozencpu.com/ex-pmp-31.html?id=wkhCkT29 is this pump really that good? 13ft of head :o
thats the DDC. check out the first page of this thread where my guide is. it lists the DDC. its a very good pump.
thanks MR
no prob. ohh. page5.
Hi I am in the purchasing mood for a Iwaki pump to my watercooling but now I have some questions.
1. Do American stores carry the 50Hz version(230w) of the MD-20RZ or the WMD-20RZ? Becuse I have looked up the swedish branch of Iwaki and the want 280USD+Shipping:eek: for it, little to pricey for me:mad:
2. Could somebody explain to me why the 50Hz has two meters(6.56feet) less head than the 60Hz version? (Look in the attached file)
3. Is the Iwaki pump still a good choise after it has lost 6.56 feets of head or is the 50z better?
I hope for some informative answers
2. AC motors depend on the line frequency to set their speed, a pump running on 50Hz will spin slower than on 60Hz resulting in lower pumping performance.
ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by Butcher_
1. there is no 50hz version - the motor just runs slower at 50hz :(Quote:
Originally Posted by Pessimisten
so you just need a 220V or 230V model (or i guess a suitable transformer)
2. the speed of AC motors is governed by the frequency of the supply - so at 50hz us europeans/australasians get less speed and therefore less head....(slightly compensated for by lower power draw 40W not 50W)
3. depends on your rads - and what you are paying (you can do better for $280 that's for sure..)
you could go for a 30RZ (8M head at 50hz) if you have a good rad setup to cope with the extra wattage...
ebay is your best source of cheap iwakis if you're patient.... (no suitable pumps on offer atm) i got a couple of 30RZs that way
Yea I agree but almost all of the ebay sellers only ship to US and Canada and it's hard to convince the seller that the lands over the ocean also belongs to the US or Canada :)Quote:
Originally Posted by pauldenton
no harm in asking - i find a polite question as to whether they will ship to you is almost always successful (that's how i got my iwakis in fact - my very first ebay purchases...) after all there's a limited market for 220V iwakis in north america, and it's not like you're from a country with a bad rep. for fraud/mail going missing or whatever. shipping to sweden by USPS isn't too bad either (a WMD-30RZ is 11 pounds shipping weight) http://pe.usps.gov/text/imm/immicl/immiclss_024.htmlQuote:
Originally Posted by Pessimisten
and i guess you may (or may not) have to pay swedish VAT (MOMS in swedish iirc) on the goods+shipping (+ any duty)
What do you all think of this pump. Its the Little Giant 2-MD-SC magnetic drive pump LINK
It consumes a lot of power but it says that the pump has a Thermally protected open fan-cooled motor with sleeve bearings. Also the Magnet housing acts as an insulator to prevent motor heat from being transferred to the fluid being pumped. Does anybody have any experiance or comments on this? :banana:
Oh yeah I dont mind to have 100w dumped into the case air because I have very good circulation.