i got my digi-cam today here is a pic of my sys and res
Res
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i got my digi-cam today here is a pic of my sys and res
Res
sys
and then my rig
and the tools
I just finshed brazing it here are some more pics
sys
res
ghetto brazing
1st time i used my new mapp/oxy torch and wow it makes the job so easy compared to a mapp gas touch
brazed 2 3/8 tubes together without union:toast:
should i surmage my pump or run it inline with the res
fixed my subcooling problem
tape can go along way
I wouldn't fill the insert with water. That would be the same as if you had no insert at all. putting an extra load on the system. I would insulate the extra space.Quote:
Originally posted by sky
i'm going for an insert, so i can dump my pump in there. then i'll cut a hole into it to put the inlet nozzle through there and finally seal it off.
btw the pump doesn't need to be submerged, so it's either way. but i'm probably going to fill the insert with water anyway.
ok here's a pic of what i think it might look like
http://www.abi02.de/deepblue2k2/pixx/_remake.jpg
the red part is the insert, the blue parts are pump and tubing. the pump will actually not have any tubing attached to its inlet, as the throughput almost halved when i had it running with a piece of tube there. the inlet nozzle is a pretty strong piece of plastic that protrudes a bit, so it's ideal for sealing.
hm all of this could even be used to dampen the vibration of the pump some more. - as it is right now, the vibration of the pump travels through all of the reservoir and that's not a pretty sound. so i'll probably put that insert (figure something like an icecream can for now) on some rubber feet and drop it in the rez. then the pump will be placed on another set of rubber feet which should quiten it down to inaudible. the seal used for the inlet-nozzle will have rubberish to do the same :).
yep, i guess i got carried away. of course the insert would have to be insulated if i were to fill it with water - which seems to be a stupid idea now that i think of it ;)
monday will be the day of the first test run with g48 instead of plain water. it will show where the temps are headed - atm i can get around -6°C with no load and tap water. depending on its success i have to start thinking of a cover for the rez, since g48 or paint thinner don't really smell all that good ;). atm i'm thinking of clear plexi with some sealstring or silicone around the edges and where the tubes pass through the top.
right on ,looking forward to the results.:DQuote:
Originally posted by sky
yep, i guess i got carried away. of course the insert would have to be insulated if i were to fill it with water - which seems to be a stupid idea now that i think of it ;)
monday will be the day of the first test run with g48 instead of plain water. it will show where the temps are headed - atm i can get around -6°C with no load and tap water. depending on its success i have to start thinking of a cover for the rez, since g48 or paint thinner don't really smell all that good ;). atm i'm thinking of clear plexi with some sealstring or silicone around the edges and where the tubes pass through the top.
You can't get much below 0C with tap water. Once it starts making ice, the temperature can no longer drop. Instead of being a chiller, it becomes an icemaker, with all of the system capacity being used for that purpose.
I would suggest using windshield washer solvent for the coolant. This is a mixture of methanol and water. If it starts to slush up, you can strengthen the mixture with gas line anti-freeze, which is pure methanol.
Sky , I use this its ethanol denatured with methanol and I mix it with antifreeze ( ethylene glycol) which also contains corrosion inhibitors. I've changed my ratio from what I had in my earlier posts from 70% antifreeze to 30% alcohol to a mixture of 50/50 it gets about 5 degrees cooler and pumps way better. I tried the windshield washer mixture as Gary mentioned but it slushed up and would hardly pump at my temps -25 to -30c . however you may not have this problem with your higher temps.Oh , and whatever you do for a cover make your tank so you can get in and out of it a lot , If your like me you wont be able to resist the temptation to look in there a often :DQuote:
Originally posted by vlad
Use 100% denatured alcohol. you can get it at any hardware store, Ace/ trunvalue/ homedepot, look in paint dept in solvents.
yep i noticed that. was funny to see actual tap water reach -6°C for a short time - later on temps got back to around 0°C. i thought it was impossible for water to get below 0°C (physics and all) but then again, who knows what chemicals are in your average tapwater anyway. and i'm not going for windshield washer stuff, since that tends to foam - heard that from a lot of people and have seen it first hand on my windscreen ;).Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
You can't get much below 0C with tap water. Once it starts making ice, the temperature can no longer drop. Instead of being a chiller, it becomes an icemaker, with all of the system capacity being used for that purpose.
I would suggest using windshield washer solvent for the coolant. This is a mixture of methanol and water. If it starts to slush up, you can strengthen the mixture with gas line anti-freeze, which is pure methanol.
i'm going to use g48, which is a coolant used in engine cooling circuits. a 1:1 mixture of destilled water at that should reach -40°C, straight g48 will go down to -70°C - not that i need for those temps. and besides it also includes some chemicals that stop corrosion inside the coolers - especially in circuits combining cu and al.
anyway, thanks for the tip!
i went through a good deal of diy-stores today and all i have to say is BAD IDEA. only nutcases around, i was starting to have temper-problems ;). besides that. they didn't have any of the stuff i needed. sp i'm gonna try windshield solvent now for a quick test. maybe i'll try again later this afternoon, but all those stores were crowed with people as if tomorrow the stores would cease to exist (argh).Quote:
Originally posted by jamaljaco
Sky , I use this its ethanol denatured with methanol and I mix it with antifreeze ( ethylene glycol) which also contains corrosion inhibitors. I've changed my ratio from what I had in my earlier posts from 70% antifreeze to 30% alcohol to a mixture of 50/50 it gets about 5 degrees cooler and pumps way better. I tried the windshield washer mixture as Gary mentioned but it slushed up and would hardly pump at my temps -25 to -30c . however you may not have this problem with your higher temps.Oh , and whatever you do for a cover make your tank so you can get in and out of it a lot , If your like me you wont be able to resist the temptation to look in there a often :D
anyway what kind of tubing do you use? so far i have some cheapo pvc-tubing, which is a major pain since it's just too easy to bend and also contains some materials that given enough time will be washed out of the tubing and will then jam my coolers. i tried getting pur/pun type tubing but to no avail. also neoprene for isolating my mobo / gfx-card wasn't around - so i guess this day was pretty useless so far.
ah and the cover of my machine will be made from clear acryl-glas that i got some time ago. and i love the idea. i know i will be looking at it alot :D
Du mu¦Â winter grad anti-freeze, es soll sehr gut arbeiten f¨¹r dich und es ist gut zu fast -25c. Ich liebe Deutsch!
:stick: <- meQuote:
Originally posted by mrnuke
Du mu¦Â winter grad anti-freeze, es soll sehr gut arbeiten f¨¹r dich und es ist gut zu fast -25c. Ich liebe Deutsch!
Yea ,Sky, I'm using this, Tygon (formula R-3603) It has a temp range of -49 to 158F. It resist most all inorganic chemicals. It also resist cracking , aging and colapse . the stuff in the pic is .500 ID X .750 OD with a wall size of .125 . Its largly sold as medical equipment and is a bit expensive at $3.00 per foot U.S. You might get lucky and find a distributor near you ;) I order mine from the Danger Den just down the road a bit from where I live. hehe .:D
:DQuote:
Originally posted by mrnuke
Du mu¦Â winter grad anti-freeze, es soll sehr gut arbeiten f¨¹r dich und es ist gut zu fast -25c. Ich liebe Deutsch!
funny.. every club i've been to in the states the guy at the door would pull out some german sentences on seeing my id ... is it common to learn german in school or do you have relatives over here?
@jamal
i hope you don't mind me shortening your nick ;).
i've been looking into tygon r3603 last week and they sell it only in 15 meter rolls for about 86 euros. that's way more than i need - and on browsing the pages of ismatec sa (tygon factory guys) i found something that bothers me. in the specs they say r3603 incorporates softeners (don't know if that's the correct term) and is basically yet another pvc-mixture. and it is said that r3603 isn't recommended for use with solvents - solvents here referring to stuff as in paint, etc.
that's why i started to worry about you running paint thinner or similar stuff through it.
it should be ok for alcohols or similar stuff, but i spent some more time at their site and browsed for other materials and found tygon mh 2075. that doesn't incorporate softeners and is resistant to solvents of any type. the temp-range is given as -70°C to +52°C (not exactly my range...). so now i'm trying to find a reseller that lists this. so far i only found about 4 shops in all of germany (!) that offer r3603 - and those are mostly medical equipment suppliers, just as you said.
anyway. my windshield solvent test wasn't as successful as i hoped. temps went to about -10°C since that stuff started slushing. i had the chiller run for some time and had to do other stuff, when i returned i had a fat piece of ice in my rez - doh. so that mixture was crap and it stinks pretty bad. i didn't have enough of it (and if i had i would have been woozy all day) and had to add water - too much it would seem ;)
so next up is the test with real car-coolant - that should give me an idea of what temps can be reached.
@gary
is it better for the compressor to have the fans (2x 120 mm deltas with ~95cfm each) pushing air through the condenser, or having them run at low speeds with less than half the volume pushed through the condenser?
btw happy new year from 2004 already :D
With the system under heavy load (during pull down), the difference between the air temperature entering the condenser and the air temperature leaving the condenser should be no more than 14C. If the difference (called delta-T or dT) is more than 14C dT, then it needs more airflow. I like to see the condenser dT less than 10C.
i guess i'll have to test that soon but i'm pretty confident that i can get to within 10°C dT, maybe less. i messed up with the fans in my last post. each fan actually has 106cfm throughput. the condenser came with a single fan worth 95cfm throughput, so if i run those 2 replacements at full speed they have more than doubled the original throughput - and the exhaust air is barely warmer than ambient. i'll post the actual temps some time soon, maybe later today.Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
With the system under heavy load (during pull down), the difference between the air temperature entering the condenser and the air temperature leaving the condenser should be no more than 14C. If the difference (called delta-T or dT) is more than 14C dT, then it needs more airflow. I like to see the condenser dT less than 10C.
thanks Gary very useful info, I have something to measure, may have to redesign my shroud, hehe.Quote:
Originally posted by Gary Lloyd
With the system under heavy load (during pull down), the difference between the air temperature entering the condenser and the air temperature leaving the condenser should be no more than 14C. If the difference (called delta-T or dT) is more than 14C dT, then it needs more airflow. I like to see the condenser dT less than 10C.
just checked I'm right at 10-c assuming the air going in is ambient.Quote:
Originally posted by jamaljaco
thanks Gary very useful info, I have something to measure, may have to redesign my shroud, hehe.
Sky, found some distributers of DANGER DEN stuff in Europe.Quote:
Originally posted by sky
...i'm trying to find a reseller that lists this. so far i only found about 4 shops in all of germany (!) that offer r3603 - and those are mostly medical equipment suppliers, just as you said.
btw happy new year from 2004 already :D
At least one of them sells the Tygon R3603 that your looking for..heres a link or two.....good luck! :)
Denmark:
http://www.coolerkit.dk/group.asp?group=31
Germany:
http://www.cybernetic-design.net/catalog/index.php
Heres a link to Danger Den themselves, and their other European distributors:
http://www.dangerden.com/base_pages/...ors_Europe.htm
Good Luck in finding what you need! BTW....Happy New year 2 U 2!! :) :) :) :)