Now that is teh sex! Very clean looking. Nice work.
I am going to have to snap some pics here once I get my Dtek. I have changed quite a bit and am now getting 28-29°C load temps on the NB.
Just say the word buddy, and I'll update your entry... ;)
Renegade5399 ---- 1.65v ------ 34°C -------------------------- E6850 GO @ 4GHz
[QUOTE=initialised;2698833]A PA120.3 is about 1/4 the size of my radiator (which holds a litre) so you should be OK with a 500ml bottle.
Thank you for your extensive feedback
Is a system that passes 3dMark2k6, and 5 min OCCT stable on CPU and RAM (slider left and right) considered stable here? I've not used prime because it prompts me for some file to download... 5min in OCCT is my start limit. No real program that I've found stresses the CPU like OCCT. TMPGEnc comes close but is not 100%. Even 3dmark2k6 at 100%CPU when you get maybe 2FPS, only loads the CPU 50 maybe 75% (I'm being generous) according to Everest, even though OCCT itself doesn't say 100% load, which in other threads has been discussed and the decided result of this anomaly was that it's internal temp limiting in the Q6600. That is the temp is limiting the execution speeds internally. A function of the die itself. Current leakage = higher temps. Higher temps = slower execution times. I think I have some extraordinary numbers for a typical WC system, but I am definately not one that just wants to post high numbers without following some agreed guidelines.
Ambient was 23*C. Still trying to find lower Volt limits. Takes time as I'm testing intentionally different Ambient temps.
Ram
Looking good man... :)
Thanks for the post.
Yeah?, Thanks.
If I could have spotted all your info, I would have hade your entry. :)
Starting, taking apart hardware.
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/473...0042dp7.th.jpg
PA120.3 in place with noctua fans
http://img90.imageshack.us/img90/202...0050hi2.th.jpg
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/1...0051rh3.th.jpg
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/2...0052ds7.th.jpg
http://img223.imageshack.us/img223/3271/pict0053oj4.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-17
Ony one that have try to warm up the tube by putting it into the micro and warming it up for a few seconds, rather than using warm water
?
Hot air blower works great.
You only want to heat the end two inches not the whole tube. Its a narrow range from hot enough its soft and too hot to handle.
Work in progress
1) Pump
http://img205.imageshack.us/img205/8238/pict0055mv8.jpg
By neo_rtr at 2008-01-19
2) D-tek Fusion Block
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/3622/pict0056ui9.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-19
3) PA 120.3 and the T-Line filling port.
Started to put the T-line filling port on the same loop as the Cape Coolplex Pro 25 but could not fit it. so i change my plans. This is almost on the radiator Out port (only 2/3 mm apart so i can see the water level). I think it works to have it this way as well. Did not notice anything strange with the water flow.
http://img215.imageshack.us/img215/7518/pict0057fu3.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-19
4) Filling port
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/6705/pict0058ec3.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-19
this hangs just outside the chassi just now, will fix it later on.
The other things was i was not able to get a propper filling port ala DD style and this one works just the same.
5) Final set up.
http://img149.imageshack.us/img149/166/pict0059rd1.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-19
6) Leak test. I did try at first to blow and see if it holds. True i did notice a lead. The NB (Fusion block) was leaking. i had to change the metal ring and put cable clip to hold it in place. a bit strange!!
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/1347/pict0062pc8.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-19
:clap:
Has been runnig for about 5 hours now with no leaks. starting cable work
Great pictures, and Shweeet looking system!!
First I have heard of a NB fusion block leaking...
I guess goes to show that you never know.
Glad you caught it. :up:
Don't be shy on posting your temps after you get it all set up.
I think i messed up.
my loop follows the following flow
From the pump to the cpu to the fusion block to the radiator to the tank to the pump
looking my previous diagram .. all wrong!!
Rebuild it
Pump out>Radiator>CPU>NB>Reservoir>Pump in
will post new pics later on
currently for leak testing
Sorry to hear buddy...
Yep, the best is:
Pump IN, is being fed from the res OUT,
pump OUT is pushing directly into the rad IN,
cooled rad OUT water goes directly to the CPU block center IN hole,
CPU OUT makes a quick trip over to the NB IN (either hole),
NB out goes back to the res.
I think that would be pritty much set for optimum performance for your loop. :up:
A good spot for the T-line is between res OUT, and pump IN.
What is your current plan, drain and re-do the loop?
Hey neo_rtr, what camera do you have? Nice looking system you got there!
His pictures do look outstanding....
He's using a Konica Minolta Dimage X1. Info was on the same post. And yes, great job on the pics. I got a Konica Minolta but a different model.
Gents thank you.
i did the loop from scratch.
1) Loop
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/9418/pict0063sf6.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20
2) CPU NB. notice that the metal ring was taken out of one of the barbs and replaced with cables ties.
i bit hard to get them tight but works. my opinion about the metal rings, not woth the trouble when dealing with this kind of installations. they do feel safe but for 2nd time got a leak because if you dont get them on the just the right position they bend the pipe causing leak. previously this happend with the NB and now again with the barbs on the D-Tek. So i change them to cable ties. worked like a charm.
http://img230.imageshack.us/img230/494/pict0064ef5.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20
3) The loop 2nd part. NB to reservoir to the pump
http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/7752/pict0065eo1.jpg
By neo_rtr, shot with DiMAGE X1 at 2008-01-20
Seth decided for me, but when the RAD is orentated this way, it was the top hole for in, and the bottom hole for out.
I guess I don't know if there is an official IN and OUT on the RAD...
http://img525.imageshack.us/img525/213/pic083vj7.jpg