Antec 430w TruePower: Any way to Vmod this ??

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Originally posted by Minnyboy
Yes you can do the 3.3v mod by itself.

If you got ram that likes volts or your 3.3v line sucks then the 3.3v mod helps heaps.

IMO modding the 12v line does not help in Ocing your CPU (might be wrong with my assumption though).

The 3.3v mod helps more IMO as it allows your ram to run to it's fullest potential (with the right ram, that is).

If ya got BH5/BH6 or maybe even CH5, do the mod. My theory is that even if your CPU doesn't OC as good, having your ram running really tight timings will boost perforamnce (probably know that already).

IMHO do the mod, why not? it's the 3.3v that helps the most for performance if I'm correct...

5v line doesn't improve your performance unless you go sick & mod a 5v line to your VC (iirc someone has done that).

12v line might improve your OC but if you don't have a sense wire to mod then you're stuck with maybe a 5Mhz less OC (again, this is just my opinion).

I gained so much more performance with my BH5's with the 3.3v mod. Couldn't do DDR433 @ 2-5-2-2 at 2.8v (IC7-G), now that my 3.3v is at 3.51v, my BH5 can do DDR510 (2-5-2-2-@3.3v Single Channel). Going Dual Channel, I can do DDR470 (same timings & volts).

Can also use GAT now as well at DDR460 (auto, enhanced, 5 clocks, enabled, enabled), B4 the 3.3 mod, I had to leave it at auto & disable the last 2 DAT settings..

I'm rambling now...
Do the mod, you won't regret it.

Cheers

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Sometimes modding the other rails can yield improvements...but only if they are low.

I would consider the 5v rail as the Radeon cards seem to drain it harshly.

Best thing to do is fire up the machine and put it under a heavy overclock and then put it under load -- loop 3DMark. Then check each rail while she is looping 3DMark. If you get readings that are low, time for the mod.

Its not the case on the 12v and 5v rails that pushing them really high helps, its that making sure they are atleast to spec and stable thats the important thing with these 2 rails.

My 12v and 5v both stay above rated under a heavy OC with 3DMark running, but my 3.3v drains down to about 3.1x. So I'm definitely doing the mod.

My only question is, will I get correct values on my digital multimeter if I measure the 3.3v line without the PSU being connected to my mobo/system?

edit: Also, I have a 10k Ohm 1/2watt resistor and a 1k Ohm 15-turn cermet potentiometer. Are these the right components for the +3.3v mod?

This too...please complete/correct!

http://home.mchsi.com/~246gts/Pics/3vrailmod.jpg

You will know as they will either be way out or spack on where they should be.

please check my previous post stevil :)

Just check the resistance between legs 1 and 2 and 2 and 3. 2 is the common "ground" (not really, but it works best that way if you use 2 as the ground all the time).

You want to start out at max resistance, so you can go to either 1 or 3.

Are you saying I should connect the wire coming from the 10k ohm resistor to either post 1 or 3? And can I connect the ground wire from the pot to a ground on a molex?

yep, just make sure that when u pick leg 1 as the one u solder fixed resistor to, u have your VR set to max resistance (measured with DMM between that leg 1 and middle leg on VR).
same if u decided to go with leg 3 (max resistance between that one and middle)...
and yes, middle leg of VR goes to ground (e.g. black wire on the molex)

I have one question. Is the same mod for the Antec Trueblue 480W?

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Originally posted by DjTonic
I have one question. Is the same mod for the Antec Trueblue 480W?

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Yup, only diffrence in TB is few blue leds added inside PSU
I used following resistors:

10ohm fixed + 1k ohm vr for 3.3V rail
30ohm fixed + 10k ohm vr for 5V rail
68ohm fixed + 10k ohm vr for 12V rail

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Originally posted by bachus_anonym
yep, just make sure that when u pick leg 1 as the one u solder fixed resistor to, u have your VR set to max resistance (measured with DMM between that leg 1 and middle leg on VR).
same if u decided to go with leg 3 (max resistance between that one and middle)...
and yes, middle leg of VR goes to ground (e.g. black wire on the molex)

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Cool, just wanted to be sure before I blew anything up :D
Thanks for the help guys...doing the mod this afternoon!

Hi guys,

I've been attempting to do this mod tonight, on my TrueBlue 480's 3.3v rail with a 10ohm fixed resistor and a 1K trimmer. I've been checking the voltages all the way through, and I've stopped because I got a little bit worried about a reading.

My wiring looks exactly the same as macci's and xigfrid's diagrams, but after soldering it all together, I decided to check the resistance between the two legs of the VR I was using (past all the wonderfully messy solder), and I got a reading of about 54 ohms, rather than the 1Kohm I was expecting. Now is this normal, or is it an indication that I've soldered something wrong/damaged the VR? The only way I can know for sure is to plug it in and turn it on, but I don't really want to kill this PSU. If this is right, and someone could explain to me why the reading is like that (I assume it's something to do with the fact that I'm not only measuring the resistance between the two legs, but also all around the circuit the other way) I'd be very grateful, but I only have an elementary understanding of electronics.

EDIT - BTW, I'm using a ground wire from the AUX connector, which I harshly chopped off, I don't think that would make any difference but any info I can give is good, right? ;)

Any help would be muchly appreciated :toast:

unsolder one leg and see if its 1K ohms with no wire attached.

If it goes back to 1K then maybe this shows just how overkill a 1K ohm VR is ;)

well i decided to measure volts myseld and not trust the volts showed in bios. and!! the 3,3v mod works fine for me . now 3,40v on the 3,3v rail. :banana: but the 12v mod doesnt seem to work for me. used a 47ohm resistor and a 10k vr. but at a point the fixed resistor gets hot as hell but the line stays at 12,1v all the time.any idea what this could be? thx to all who helped me by now ;)

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Originally posted by STEvil
If it goes back to 1K then maybe this shows just how overkill a 1K ohm VR is ;)

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I'll try that, but firstly, why would it give such a false reading? And secondly, how will I know when the solder is off whether it was my soldering or the circuit that was creating that reading? Basically I need an explanation of where that 54-55 ohms comes from, and someone with a lot of patience to explain it to me. I'm someone who needs to understand why he's doing something and what he's doing before he does it, I probably shouldn't have started this without full understanding, but I thought I knew enough ;)

The 54-55 ohms came from one of two points (this is assuming you measured from the correct locations on the 1K VR and have it set correctly).

It either came from some internal resistances which are set to 54-55 ohms to make the 3.3 line 3.3v, or it came from setting the VR incorrectly, or measuring it incorrectly..


If you scroll up to Gogeta's picture then I am assuming you are measuring between pins 1 and 2 or 2 and 3, correct? Pin 2 should be the ground and pin 1 or 3 should be pre-adjusted to 1K ohms before attaching that pin to the sense line.

It is not possible to measure the stand alone resistance of a resistor or potentiometer once it is soldered up as it becomes part of a circut.

You must measure it as Steve said with one wire unsoldered.

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Originally posted by G H Z
It is not possible to measure the stand alone resistance of a resistor or potentiometer once it is soldered up as it becomes part of a circut.

You must measure it as Steve said with one wire unsoldered.

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OK thanks. Do you think it's worth assuming that I've done it fine and just trying it?

thanks to u all for their help and patience with me. all rails modded succesfully :banana: :banana: :banana:

I think it may be a good idea if we were to make a clean version of this thread and sticky it..

Also, it could be a good idea to change the instructions to have the user measure the resistance between the ground and sense line before applying the mod (with the PSU unhooked from everything) and then use a VR approximately 100 ohms higher or so than the beginning resistance.. it would allow a much higher precision when adjusting the VR's.

well I wrote that guide on this based exactly on this thread...if you want I or you or a mod could clean it up and add in the tips...I know it would be a lot easier than searching through this entire thread like I did...

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Originally posted by computerpro3
well I wrote that guide on this based exactly on this thread...if you want I or you or a mod could clean it up and add in the tips...I know it would be a lot easier than searching through this entire thread like I did...

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Sorry, which guide? Am I missing something here? ;)

Sorry I posted it a few pages back I think...

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=726156

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Originally posted by computerpro3
Sorry I posted it a few pages back I think...

http://hardforum.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=726156

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Ah thanks, didn't notice it before. Might help me out, but I reckon I know what I'm doing now, just waiting for some more VRs as this one I broke the pins off in a crappy soldering job seems to be the last 1k I have ;)

Don't know if this was already posted, but here is a good newbie guide for PSU rail modding:

http://www.bleedinedge.com/guides/ps...v_mod_pg1.html

If I do the 3.3 mod, this will SLIGHTLY increase my VDDR/VDIMM also right? I want some increase in the VDDR voltage on my motherboard without an actually VDIMM MB mod.

I have an Abit NF7-S 2.0 board.

Thanks guys. I'm off to radio shack.

96