Where's boinc I can't see it
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Where's boinc I can't see it
Umm... Still on the server waiting for it to be downloaded?
I'm a folder not a BOINCer :P
Only using F@H as a stress test, the ppd is pathetic with my slow RAM. The real job for this guy is rendering :)
We've discovered that World Community Grid in particular is not overly sensitive to memory speed, so long as you have enough installed. CPU arch and speed make the most difference and HDD IO speed is the next thing to consider, oddly enough.
The site I mostly frequent has a folding team, but no WCG/BOINC team. TBH I can't afford to have this board at full load 24/7. Sucks, but it's still going to be useful for rendering :)Quote:
Originally Posted by D_A
Maybe half crunching for the wonderful XS team and killing that nasty cancer disease? :)
Pay my power bill?
Seriously though.. I'm a solo parent of two, living on under US$390 a week. I live in Auckland, New Zealand's most expensive city. Need to be here for family support and education. The rendering is a side project, trying to earn some money off my design work. $ is tight most weeks, and this build is being done from money I can scrape together, and gifts.
I hear you on the power cost. I'm across the ditch in central NSW, Auz. Power prices where I am jumped about 30% at the beginning of July. It's hurt my crunching efforts severely to day the least. :(Quote:
Originally Posted by confusis
Yeah that sucks, not much you can do about the power costs. I was just in nz in may, in wellington. If auckland is more expensive than wellington then I don't see how anyone can survive. I couldn't believe how much food and gas cost.
I suppose we make up for it with the clean air, low population density and low crime. Still a struggle at times thoughQuote:
Originally Posted by shoota
On the power note - has anyone thrown a kill-a-watt or similar on one of these? Wondering how much it sucks at idle...
You can always crunch part time :shrug:
If I had to guess I'd say low 200's depending on which cpus and video cards. the first post here has a few numbers at load but I don't think that'll be very helpful
8347 HE B3's
ATI HD4550 GPU.
200 idle? ouchhhhhhhhhh
That's just a guess, it might be lower I have no idea. We don't care about idle wattage around these parts :) Maybe sparky can put his arima on pause and see what it is for ya.
I don't have it anymore. Otis does. Mine was watercooled with dual radiators, so it had a few extras to power, but at full load it was about 400W from the wall.
Stability issues - does anyone know the offset of the lm-sensors temps?
My system crashes when the CPUs hit 55ish, doesn't seem right. Works fine at full (loud) fan speed, but I initially config'd PWMconfig to ramp up from idle fan to full fan between 50 and 60 according to LM-sensors, as I do with all my systems. Seems the temp sensors aren't accurate with lm-sensors so it hard-stalls. Arg!
good day all.
I `ve buyed mb hp Arima 3000 series, but I am having difficulty with power supply. On the first page of the topic someone spread references to types of power adapters, but the link is (ebay) out of date and I could not see them. I`ll have a Ancet 850W Hight Curent PRO
I also have the question interests will continue working with the NON Reg/ NON-ECC memory and the power supply what power it needs for 4x Opterons?:cool:
You need some of these:
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/32...21&id=9zpPPxcT
Looking at a minimum of 30A for the HE and 40-50A for the regular opterons, on the PSU's 12v railQuote:
Originally Posted by bumctik
The board will only work with DDR2 ECC REG (registered). non-ecc, non-registered, and FB-DIMMs will NOT work.
THX for the quick answers:yepp:
And once more: I was not able to find drivers for Linux or WIndows. Could you please tell where I can look them?:confused:
Drivers?Quote:
Originally Posted by bumctik
Windows will not work on this board.
Linux, the board works with a standard install, all ports, functions. No need for driver downloads
Hello !
How to clear CMOS on this mainboard. I taked off the battery but there is no effect
Pull battery, make sure board is unplugged, leave it overnight, put battery back in and power it up. Hopefully that will do it
No reaction... Maybe another method ? I've set wrong freq for memory and mobo not booting.
Weird. Overnight without batt and power should do it! Maybe 48 hours? These boards are fussy beasts
My RAM arrived :D Working on heatsink layout and brackets at the moment, hence the aeroslots holding the coolers down >.>
http://imagehost.losias.net/images/U2y3F.jpg
I like your fan setup :up:
Waiting on the other two to arrive so I can get on with it.
Using Deepcool Ice Edge Mini FS coolers - 80mm fans. Have used them before, they're good coolers. And that's an nVidia chipset cooler on the chipset :D Rather fitting really...
Hey guys, Figured I'd introduce myself. I ran across this board on eBay a while back and with a little googling found this thread. The info provided here has been invaluable. I've made some stupid mistakes though and because of that my setup has sat unplugged and unloved in the corner for far too long.
I'm glad to see there has been some progress on the boards, I'd like to get my hands on a copy of the 1.0.6 bios but the link provided has gone dead. I'd be happy to put it up on my hosting if I am able to get my hands on a copy.
Now, I mentioned stupid mistakes.. well where to begin..
Mistake one. I bought cheap eps conversion parts. They were wired completely wrong, backwards and one of the 12v lines was wired into the 5v part of the plug. Nothing I couldn't handle but I'm glad I caught it before I plugged it all up.
Mistake two. Unaware of the b2 Stepping/TLB Patch issue, I bought 4 8354 b2 stepping opterons. They were dirt cheap and I thought I had gotten a real deal on them. They work, but I believe the real capabilities are hurt due to the issues with them. I am looking to get my hands on a nice set of 8360se's or the like to replace them with.
Mistake three, sort of.. Heat sinks, I have a fine collection of 939/940/socket F heat sinks now. I tracked down, traded and bought a bunch of various heat sinks only to have none of them properly fit the 2 closest sockets. I ended up running 4 stock Phenom heat sinks, after have taken a sawzall to one of them to make them fit. The hacking didn't hurt the performance of the heat sink but it does look fairly ugly. I am looking to remedy this and have contacted AXm77 to see if he can help me with some 212+ mounts.
Now, Onto everyone's favorite part.. Pictures.
http://i.imgur.com/A14GOl.jpg
And the "Modified" phenom heatsink.
http://i.imgur.com/6EFwll.jpg
I plan on modifying a PSU with the correct plugs 16 and 18 pin, no more adapters. I'll also be adding a toggle switch to it so I can turn the psu off with out reaching around and unplugging it. Anyone know/have a source on which plugs I'll need in order to do this? I saw someone else had done it earlier in the thread.
Kayin sourced them IIRC. You can get the 16 pin on eBay, but no idea on the 18.
I'll grab a copy of my 1.06 BIOS and upload it to my host, as well as an update manual when I get my new PSU wired up (http://www.ebay.com/itm/130669938008...84.m1497.l2648)
Updated manual will have more GPU compatibility data, as well as a few tweaks. I need to get some photos of the BIOS to do that section.
I'll be buying a blue board soon and swapping my 1.06 chip over - my green board doesn't match my colour scheme for my build :(
Updated manual:
http://www.aurora-design.net/ARGO11-Manual.pdf (3.29MB)
Whoa! That poor heatsink :P
As for the PSU mod; I'm not sure where to get 16 or 18 pin Molex-type connectors that would be keyed right for this board. I would recommend using the connectors from the EPS adapters you already have. If you're up for it, pop the PSU open and de-solder everything from the ATX harness except the 3 +12v lines, 4 Ground lines and the Power-ON line. The EPS adapters will use the same pins as the ATX (20/24-contact) and P4 (4-contact) connectors so you can either use a pin extractor to swap the lines out of the defunct ATX connector, or cut and splice. Do the same with some 4-pin Drive connectors for extra +12v lines. It's probably safe to have only two +12v lines from the PSU actually going into each 8-connector block; just get some appropriately-coloured 16 or 18-gauge wire and run splices between the pins so they're all powered. If you want the connectors to look more streamlined you could just crazy-glue them together into 16-pin and 14-pin blocks. I'd recommend leaving the last 4 pins on the 18-connector block empty since they're not documented right now. Wire the Power-ON line and one Ground line into a connector like This and install a conveniently-located toggle switch in your case with a corresponding plug and you'll have a power switch!
Great job on the manual, confusis! As far as accessing the BIOS, does the bug with it not being accessible with some processors still stand in the 1.0.6 firmware? I'm building my system with B3 stepping CPUs and it would be a hassle to have to get a different CPU just for accessing the BIOS setup.
Not sure - I've only tested with b3's. I.E. can get into 1.0.6 BIOS setup with B3's :D I'll have to add screenshots of BIOS to the manual when I get mine running again.Quote:
Originally Posted by HTownDowner
Re: manual
If anyone has tested any CPUs or GPUs not listed in the manual, let me know with your results, and I will update the manual. Will also update it with the BIOS stepping issue. I should get a stack of 10 or so BIOS chips flashed with 1.0.6 and onsell them to folks at cost ;)
I spent some time poking around mouser and i think i bought the right plugs.. for the 3 bucks i dont mind being wrong. Ill find out when they get here.
I do plan on modifying a psu and removing unneeded plugs, wires and what not. I'll post pictures as I go along.
If any one looks for that connectors, Molex part no. 39-01-2160 - 16 pins and 39-01-2180 for 18 pins.Quote:
Originally Posted by Veeb0rg
Mouser - 16 pins = $1.17
Mouser - 18 pins = $1.03
confusis i like the use of the pci-e bracket :D
Yup those are the ones I orderedQuote:
Originally Posted by AXm77
$2.20 worth of plugs, $30USD shipping to me! Ummmmmm... damn. Maybe not :(Quote:
Originally Posted by AXm77
it was like $5 shipping for the 2 plugs and 40 of the pins for them *I bought extra because I'm an idiot and will certainly ruin a few*
Yeah, I'm in New Zealand though.
09-10-2012 10:32 PM #925
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No reaction... Maybe another method ? I've set wrong freq for memory and mobo not booting.
I did the same thing. Could never get it to boot again. Had to have a guy flash me another bios chip. The link to him is in one of my previous posts on this thread.Then some time after that I hooked up another power supply which for some reason hosed the board. (it was the right power supply, should have worked.) I ended up getting another board from the guy on ebay for $40. These boards are flakey as hell.
Try http://nz.mouser.com/ ?Quote:
Originally Posted by confusis
Same shipping charges :/
I don`t know if the BIOS is nulled but I get sight of the memory was damaged when I changed the position of the modules several times. Sonow I am waiting for the new RAM and mobo is without the battery now. Maybe this period will be sufficient for resetting the BIOS.
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaliTech
They have plenty at New Zealand Farnell.Quote:
Originally Posted by confusis
http://sideparting.com/1.06.bin
1.06 BIOS that was posted earlier.
Finally have (almost) all the parts for my build!
Attachment 130065
- 4x Opty 8350 HE
- 4x Coolermaster Hyper 101 Heatsinks
- 8x 2GB Micron (IBM OEM branded) PC-5300 ECC/REG 1.8v
- Geforce 8800GT 1GB
- Cheap PCI soundcard with CMI-8138 chipset (well-supported in Arch Linux with ALSA)
I was able to get everything except the CPUs locally through little resellers/recyclers. Go Houston!
To Do-
- Buy a new power supply- the cheap 600W unit in the photo was DOA- which I didn't find out until AFTER I'd started to modify it. Oops. I think I'll be more comfortable with >750W anyways.
- Modify power supply to remove 24-pin connector and old-style Molex 4-pin drive connectors, add more EPS connectors and wire PWR_ON to hard switch. I think I'm going to keep the 5v Standby as well for powering a status LED or something.
- Fabricate retention brackets for heatsinks. I could just buy the proper plastic ones, but where's the fun in that? ;) Besides, the AM2/3 retention kit that comes with the Hyper 101 frankly looks like sh*te to me.
- Hack off a bit of the slot cover on the GPU to clear the power/reset switches. I've already test-fit the card with the cover off and it does clear the Capacitors behind the slot, barely.
- Eventually fabricate a custom case!
I'll make separate posts for the PSU and Heatsink jobs as I work on them. So excited to finally get this beast running!
I'd go simple. Just hotwire a regular PS for now until you get the system up, running and stable. Then get fancy. I like where you're going though. That's pretty sweet. You should check out the team work going on in the badge hunter thread. Makes me want to dig up my Arima just add more cores for the cause....it probably won't boot and will require me to sit in front of it cursing for 3 to 5 days before it decides that this time that I power it on, it'll POST :rofl:
Alright, got a proper PSU- Directron is selling manufacturer refurb PC Power & Cooling 1KW units with a 72A(!) 12v rail for 70 bucks right now. Also, I drafted the design for the HSF retention brackets last night and started making a jig to cut them.
and that this motherboard does not support Shanghai (or Istanbul)?
I was planning to buy the processor: 8389 (also a frequency is 2.9 :) ) Also, i has PSU with 48A for 12V, is it enough?
No Shanghai or Istanbul. Barcelona only dude. Read the manual I posted on the last page :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergyg
That PSU is enough if you're using the non-HE cpus. (i.e. not the 115w 2.4/2.5ghz CPUs)
I think you saying non-SE cpus?Quote:
Originally Posted by confusis
That is correct. 8358-SE and 8360-SE are 115W+ parts. 8346-8360 are the only ones that will work at all with this board; I say 8350HE is the best bet. It offers 20% better mhz/watt than the others and all CPUs with that part # are B3 stepping so you don't have to worry about getting one with the TLB Bug which can apparently be significant if you plan on running Virtual Machines at all.
I meant non-SE. d'oh! Was late when I posted that!
Has anyone tried Xen on these systems? I'm hoping to try get GPU passthrough working ;)
I don't know if this chipset will support GPU passthrough, let us know if you find anything though!
Yeah, thats what I figured. IIRC the Arima has the highest MCP chipset, which apparently does do IOMMU, but i guess it's up to nVidia to enable it to be used :/
if anyone is interested i have,
4 x 8354 B3 cpus for sale
and also 16x 1GB ddr2 667 ecc ram fully tested and working for this board
drop me a PM im in the UK also
I'll just leave this here:
http://imagehost.losias.net/images/pOhJu.jpg
Nice.. what case did that start life as?
Nice case :up: Time to put a couple of 120mm fans at the back of that guy
Case started life as a Silverstone PS02.
Will be replacing the front chassis part with a new panel to hold 2x 140mm fans and a 7" LCD
Rear is still being worked on for, you guessed it correctly, 2x120mm fans :)
Sweet, I dig it :toast2:
Case looks nice, confusis! Looks like you still have room for a PSU and a couple hard drives up top.
I'm still working on custom retention brackets for my heatsinks. Suffice to say, it would've been way easier to just buy the proper plastic ones but I'm having a good time so there's that.
Will be using all 2.5" drives, hiding them on the backside of the motherboard tray ;)
Any ideas as to the max amount of 2.5" drives powered off the board? The VRegs around the floppy style plugs are good for 100A @ 5v, not sure about the other components responsible though. I plan on running 2-4 SSDs and 2-4 laptop HDDs eventually.
Hmm... Without manufacturer documentation, it's hard to say what those would be specc'd at. I'd recommend hacking a wiring harness with extra leads for a multimeter (or two-one for 5v & one for 12v) and watching for any voltage droop with all the drives going. Even 15k RPM 2.5" drives only use ~2A I think 4 normal drives + 4 SSD's would not use a terrific amount of power.
Hmm sounds good. My power supply only supplies 12V, so need to run any 5v reliant devices off the board headersQuote:
Originally Posted by HTownDowner
Well, I got the 8360se's and 2 of the 212+ heatsinks today. I got the cpu's installed using the old heatsinks and they work like a charm, I did find out that 2 of my 1gb sticks are bad/unloved by this board so I'm down to running 12 sticks right now. They are getting replaced by 2gb 667 sticks next week anyway to no harm there.
This weekend I'm going to start modding the psu for the custom plugs and making things "pretty". I am going to have to stick one of my 8354 b2's back in so I can get into the bios so I can flash it. What program is everyone using to flash with?
OOoh 8360's :D Bit moar grunt than my 8347's :/
Yeah... , and 50% more on power outlet: 350W (8350HE) vs ~530W+ (8360SE).:(Quote:
Originally Posted by confusis
BTW: any progress on Shanghais? :)
Need to get my system fully running so I can test stuff. Coreboot will take a LOT of work - I basically have to do all the compiling and bug tracing work myself (and I'm not a programmer!). BIOS hacking - none of the editors will open the BIN file correctly - so the only way to change stuff is hex editing, and I just don't have the sanity for that!
Well I just flashed the bios via flashrom, it verified as good. I hope it isn't lying to me.
.. and ?!?!!? Did you reboot?!Quote:
Originally Posted by Veeb0rg
No, its in the basement, I had to run out and get lunch/solder. I will be going to reboot it in a few minutes. I'll also be switching out 2 of the heatsinks of the 212's and possibly starting to mod the PSU for the proper plugs.
update: Bios flashing worked perfectly fine. I also hate minijr plug pins *atx pins*. Next time I'm buying a Crimper and pin remover, I could have saved so much time unpinning the plugs and using the factory pins vs cutting everything and doing all the pins.. with out a crimper.
http://i.imgur.com/outfZl.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/GjEN7l.jpg
Lookin' good!
I'm almost done with my heatsink brackets- should have the system ready to go this weekend.
So, I finished up as much as I could this morning. Still waiting on a 2 heat sinks and the 667 ram to get here. Full Album is here: http://imgur.com/a/zETot#0
http://i.imgur.com/abJOml.jpg
http://i.imgur.com/z6uvjl.jpg
The LED is hooked to the Power Supply so I know when its "On"
http://i.imgur.com/R1H3Rl.jpg
Nice work dude!
Mine's on hold till after I rebuild my ITX rig - My notebook died, leaving me without a stable/working rig -_-
Success! Kind of. I finally got the heatsink mounting brackets fabricated and assembled the system on my test bench- and it boots!
Bad news? I can't access the goddamn BIOS, which means I'll need to dig up a B2 CPU somewhere and the CPU0 heatsink runs into my GPU (8800GT with double-wide heatsink) so I'll have to sort that somehow.
^*&$$*{$)@#! :shakes:
Off to the grocery now, perhaps consuming some wine and an entire box of frozen waffles will help this dilemma...
Hmm... Got a thought. This board automatically tries to PXE boot- I bet I could set up a PXE server on one of my other machines with DOS and flashrom. Stay tuned.
This could get interesting :up:
It'll have to be Linux and flashrom; I don't think DOS will work with EFI actually. I need to sleep so this will have to wait.
But the later OS's do like Server 2008.
My PSU arrived and by golly it is loud! Mods will have to occur before I use it -_-
I could never get 2008 to boot however, though I didn't try PXE.Quote:
Originally Posted by retro77
@ Confusis- which PSU did you get?
@ Sparky- I don't think PXE vs Locally booting would make a difference- AFAIK, the process is the same; just the source of the system image is different.
That's what I figure.
@HTownDowner - one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/130669938008...84.m1439.l2649 Pure 12v output :) Loud though. 50x50x30mm fan, 36dbA at 16.5CFM :(
Yikes! That's a pretty awful airflowflow/noise ratio. Shouldn't be too hard to add an 80mm+ fan though. My PP&C unit is pretty loud as well- once I've tested it more under load I may replace it's 80mm fan with a bottom-mounted 140mm that I salvaged from the DOA 600W PSU I initially bought.
All the ram got here today.. now running 16 2gb pc2-5300r sticks of ram.
http://i.imgur.com/5R17Al.jpg
So far, I'm disappointed with the performance of the thing. I am considering parting it out.
Performance at what?Quote:
Originally Posted by Veeb0rg
f@h. I've decided, it is getting parted out, if anyone wants anything contact me, everything but the 212+ heat sinks, the hdd and the pci vid card are going..
I'll take that mobo :up: PM me
Nice score retro.
The ram is 2gb sticks? How much for those? PM me
What are you using it for? These *are* 5-year-old systems, keep in mind. For things that don't use an absurd amount of RAM and/or have fewer than 6 threads, a single modern multi-core CPU will be faster. Dual 6-core Opterons (can be had for fairly cheap; check out HP XW9400 for a platform) would also probably be faster for many things. Adding a modern GPU to these rigs will give a significant performance increase for non-crunching tasks but again, these are 5-years old. Myself, I'm doing it for the challenge! Even if it's slower than my overclocked Core 2 rig (which it will be for some things), the challenge and satisfaction of the project is worth it for me. YMMV :)
Hello,
Always wanted to play with a very fast system. These motherboards are inexpensive - so I will try to get one running for system makes in visual studio 2010. Any help will be appreciated.
Arima Motherboard: 40gcmg020-d400-100
Status:
1. Understand the 12 volt power supply - found 4 pin to eight pin transition pins at frys.com and on ebay. Both for the two 12 volt four pin plug and the old hard drive plug to eight pin plugs.
2. Made a motherboard backplane from sheet metal which fits sideways on the outside of an old six bay atx box. Will add enclosure when all works.
3. Bought an 8382 Opteron to see if i can get anything going.
4. Bought the heat sink bracket for am2 and used a Dremel to shape it. Did not try to bend latch - just cut the edge off the bracket.
5. Using an 500 watt power supply until it works with one cpu.
6. Bought 2 x 2 gb of ddr2 240 pin DIMM 667MHZ ECC Registered PC2 5300 memory sticks. They must not be buffered. Buffered will not fit.
ISSUES:
Under "Setting up"
Step 2:
"Turn on the psu by jumpering a black and green wire on the 24 png with a paper clip." I assume this means the 24 pin plug that connects to the motherboard on a workstation? I assume this means leave the jumper in place and use the "On/Off? button on the power supply to turn the power on and off.
Step 3:
"During the boot press and hold Del to enter the bios." And where is "del?" If it is on a keyboard, how is the keyboard connected? Is it on something like a Lantronix over the LAN boot? HELP!
Once I get this far, I am sure I will have more questions.
fred
I think you wasted your time and money:
a - this board will not run any Windows - Linux only (unless you planning running it as VM)
b - as for today Opteron 8382 will not work with board (8360SE is the highest number)
c - you need 4 sticks of memory to make it work
step2: you are correct.
step3: Del = Delete, USB keyboard
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Arima-Quad...item19bf6abd98
came across this and wondered if folks were still doing these.... the point being that it comes with a psu so I wondered if the last of the pins might be identified (the last time I read this thread there were still some unaccounted for)
I asked if they are willing to sell the PSU seperate.